My Ball python vomited a day after eating

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He weighs 410 grams and I fed him a 25g mouse. Probably too small maybe? I usually feed him 2 until he's a little bigger and make the switch to rats. But I ran out and just fed him 1. Figured it wouldn't hurt him under feeding one week.

Thing is he ate it no problem. Head first no complications. I only handled him to put him back in the cage that's it. Not even holding the next day. Though I did move his hide a could of times to take regular temp checks that day and the day he puked it shouldn't have disturbed him that much. I had people working on my front door. Next to where my snake rack is as well.

But his cage temps were even a little warmer than usual(trying to dial out my therms perfectly overshot it by about 8 degrees. His hot hide was sitting at 98 degrees at its hottest so even then he should still be comfortable enough to stay.

Does anyone have any suggestions I can't figure out what made him puke like that. The mouse was half digested and now I'm worried hes gonna be injured due to puking up stomach acid.
Also should I try feeding him again to help wash down what he puked up or let him be for awhile

Thanks for your time reading this I don't quite know what to do in this situation it is very confusing.




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Also is it possible the mouse was freezer burnt and it didn't sit well in his tummy? It was the last of a bag I'd had for like 5 months and it kinda smelled that way.
You'll probably say I'm a bad parent for feeding it to him then but I didn't think it would be bad for him


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It might have been a combo of all of this or just one-feeding a possibly off mouse, handling/moving during feeding, way too hot of a hot spot, 90-92 max so yes that was quite a bit too warm. Don't feed him at all for several WEEKS-he needs time to heal. Feed 1 smaller than normal meal when you do. Get your temps 100% on point, they need to stay steady if you want a healthy animal. Feed him in the enclosure, there's no need to move.

Okay a lot of my high temps go to high 90's is that dangerous for the snake?


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And ok I'll wait a few weeks then I don't want to hurt him.


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1/ You need to control your temps

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a lot of my high temps go to high 90's

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that tells me you are not controlling them properly, they should be stable, lower and with little to no fluctuations. (no higher than 92). BP are not forgiven when it comes to husbandry issues and their need must be met to a T

2/Regurgitation

I can be due to several issues temperature too cold while digesting
Bad feeder when fed F/T
Handling too soon after a meal
Internal parasites
Other health issues

In any case DO NOT feed for the next two weeks. If at that time the animal regurgitate again, take it to the vet for an overall check and fecal test.

Ok thank you. I was under the impression hotter was better than under 92 I'm having trouble dialing in with the bulb sensors. I have them in my enclosure an inch to the left of the heat pad


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Originally Posted by Freejkf

Ok thank you. I was under the impression hotter was better than under 92 I'm having trouble dialing in with the bulb sensors. I have them in my enclosure an inch to the left of the heat pad


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Not really sure how you're regulating the temps to be honest .

The dials on thermostats are just a rough guide , you check the temps with a probed thermometer or as many do ... use a digital temp gun ... then adjust the dial on the thermostat accordingly .


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I have an infrared temp gun I use to monitor temps. I've been dialing in my thermostat each day to try to get that "sweet" spot but I'm still off a little


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And does it matter if it's just the spot directly above my heat pad that is high 90s because the rest of my tub is around 76 degrees where I keep my room at


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So how I have my rack set up the sensing bulb is about an inn or two to the left of where my heating pad is mounted. Then I adjust temps to get the "hottest" spot on the heat pad to attain 92-95 degrees because the rest of my tub is a little colder than I would like 75-78


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And the bulb is taped to the bottom of inside of the tub with residue free black duck tape.


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Originally Posted by Freejkf

And does it matter if it's just the spot directly above my heat pad that is high 90s because the rest of my tub is around 76 degrees where I keep my room at

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Yes it matters, 98*F is way too hot for comfort and the rest of the area is too cold for proper digestion.

In addition to not feeding for 2-3 weeks, get some NutriBAC from TheBeanFarm.com - it's a reptile probiotic that will help your snake recover. Dust a damp f/t feeder with a pinch of the powder.

Your snake's next meal should be a small mouse dusted with NutriBAC. If that stays down wait two weeks before feeding a similar sized feeder. If that stays down then wait a week and feed another small meal. If that's ok then start feeding as normal.

Also you mentioned "moving to feed". Feed your snake in its enclosure. No, it won't get cage aggressive, that's a myth spread by stores that want to sell you two enclosures rather than just one.

ETA: post a picture of where your thermostat probe is in relation to the heat pad b/c I don't think you have it set up properly.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Yes it matters, 98*F is way too hot for comfort and the rest of the area is too cold for proper digestion.

In addition to not feeding for 2-3 weeks, get some NutriBAC from TheBeanFarm.com - it's a reptile probiotic that will help your snake recover. Dust a damp f/t feeder with a pinch of the powder.

Your snake's next meal should be a small mouse dusted with NutriBAC. If that stays down wait two weeks before feeding a similar sized feeder. If that stays down then wait a week and feed another small meal. If that's ok then start feeding as normal.

Also you mentioned "moving to feed". Feed your snake in its enclosure. No, it won't get cage aggressive, that's a myth spread by stores that want to sell you two enclosures rather than just one.

ETA: post a picture of where your thermostat probe is in relation to the heat pad b/c I don't think you have it set up properly.

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Thank you let me know what you think


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This is how I have most of my bps set up. I have 4 thermostats set up for 12 tubs each has 3 tubs on it


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You need to get the probe AND THE TAPE out of the enclosure immediately. Tape should never ever be in a reptile enclosure, as it sticks to your snake a lot better than to the tub.

The probe goes on the outside of the tub sandwiched between a corner of the heat pad and the underside of the tub. Set the thermostat to 90*F, wait for the heat pad to come to its steady-state, use a temperature gun to measure the floor of the tub, and adjust the thermostat up or down as needed.

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Soon I am going to have to redo this with all the notes and dos and donts.........
The placement of your probe is NOT regulating your heat source.

Wasn't there a thread not to long ago about a stick on thermometer that came loose from the side of the tank and stuck to the BPs eye???

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Originally Posted by Freejkf

And the bulb is taped to the bottom of inside of the tub with residue free black duck tape.


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As mentioned by someone a few posts ago this is a definite NO NO !

I'd remove the tape immediately and tape the probe underneath the outside of the rub pronto ..


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What everyone else said. If you need to secure a thermometer probe or something like that inside the tub, use hot glue. It works well and they wont pull it loose. They can pretty much pull anything loose when it's taped. Even little bitty hatchlings. It's just a bad idea. Pit's crayola picture is the way to go. It's safe and gives you the best chance for accurate readings..

You do it between the heater and the tub?


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Below the tub right? My snake rack might now allow that with space wise because that bulb is very thick


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I've honestly thought about getting a freedom breeder or building a new snake rack from the ground up.


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Also sorry about the spam but my thermostats won't handle the the temp of the heat pad and it doesn't keep the tubs warm enough when I place It in contact with the heat pad


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UTH is for a hot spot, NOT ambient heat. If your ambient temperatures are not warm enough then you either need to heat the room or add another heat source close to your rack.

I do a gradient of temps cool side 70s, middle 80s, hot side 90. Humidity 60 range. As for the rats I don't feed old rats, rats aren't that expensive, and after the snake is fed I typically don't disturb the snake for at least 2 days.

So I got everything but my ambient temps down! Hot spots from 90-95 depending on spot on rack cool spots 74 usually. I have 4 therms for this rack. 1 thermostat for 6 small tub ball pythons 6 heat pads of the same type on each. One thermostat for my 3 corn snakes( on the bottom of the rack because they need cooler temps.
Then 1 thermostat for my red tails they are the second up from bottom to keep there temps a little cooler. Then 1 thermostat for the 4 big tubs for my sub adults due to larger size I put them on a separate thermostat


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I also had my red tail boa vomit [emoji52] so I just decided to completely re vamp my rack took EVERYTHING apart and re did each thermostat to better regulate temps. My problem is I had snakes jumbled on the rack one thermostat powering a big tub while also powering a small corn snake tub ect so I organized and re did everything to get those desired temps and raised my room temp to 77. Hot but it's worth it for my snakes. Also bought all FRESH mice and rats of each size I will need for the next 6 months from rodent pro. Spent like 160$ lol


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Also put the temp sensor bulb for the thermostat under substrate and 10 mil duct taped to the bottom( temp only) if everything works well I'm going to get hot glue to attach instead of tape but right now there's no way the snakes pulling that tape up it's the good black duct tape I use for my job actually lol


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Originally Posted by Freejkf

Also put the temp sensor bulb for the thermostat under substrate and 10 mil duct taped to the bottom( temp only) if everything works well I'm going to get hot glue to attach instead of tape but right now there's no way the snakes pulling that tape up it's the good black duct tape I use for my job actually lol


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Probe directly above heat source* under substrate


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Originally Posted by Freejkf

Also put the temp sensor bulb for the thermostat under substrate and 10 mil duct taped to the bottom( temp only) if everything works well I'm going to get hot glue to attach instead of tape but right now there's no way the snakes pulling that tape up it's the good black duct tape I use for my job actually lol

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So you have not listened/read anything that others have taken time out of their day to help you with?
For the last time...... NO TAPE BELONGS IN ANY ENCLOSURE......
Do you know there are also many reasons we don't put thermostat probes inside of an enclosure with heat mats?

How recently did you acquire all of these snakes and were they quarantined after you got them? If one came in with a parasite and it wasn't caught, that could have spread to the others.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

So you have not listened/read anything that others have taken time out of their day to help you with?
For the last time...... NO TAPE BELONGS IN ANY ENCLOSURE......
Do you know there are also many reasons we don't put thermostat probes inside of an enclosure with heat mats?

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Pit on the prowl, It won't be in there for long ;) so no worries. I did it for temp only and I appreciate your help tremendously I will listen to what you said. But for right now trust me that tape isn't going anywhere. I'm going to use hot glue as soon as I dig my glue gun out


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Originally Posted by Freejkf

Pit on the prowl, It won't be in there for long ;) so no worries. I did it for temp only and I appreciate your help tremendously I will listen to what you said. But for right now trust me that tape isn't going anywhere. I'm going to use hot glue as soon as I dig my glue gun out


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I will have most likely have it done either tonight or Thursday night and I actually did an extremely noob move unfortunately I'm still very VERY green to this. Kinda went snake crazy and I didn't quarantine them i just put them in the rack. I don't know if it really matters but I keep up on the cleaning every day and I spend all of my time with them. I have gone threw a couple mite treatments with all my snakes as well. I'm trying to catch up on my noob move of buying more snakes than I should have without quarantining them. I'm giving the ones with bad stools de wormer from the vet


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Also pit on the prowl I can't put the therms under the tubs without rebuilding my rack so the only option I have for my worms is to put the probe inside. That is why it is taped down because I would run the risk of over heating my snakes without it being secured. Wouldn't you think it would be a better option to have very sturdy tape and correct temps until I get hot glue vs overheating my snakes?
I'm asking as a genuine question if you still think it's a worse idea I will go home after work tonight and take it off. I do respect the help you offer to these threads.

My plan is next 300$ I get in going to buy a new rack


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*build


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I want to be better and fix the errors I have already made being a snake keeper and without you guys helping me I wouldn't have know better so thank you and please don't take what I'm saying about the tape as being ungrateful I don't mean it that way it's just the only way I can attach it to the heat source ATM


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