Anxious new BP mommy

Hello everyone! I am staring this new journey with my baby BP I purchased from one of LLL Reptile's retail stores. I've had her for about three days now, and she's not doing anything besides staying in her cool side hide. The reading i'm getting inside it with the thermometer set up there at that hide is about 78F. Ambient temperature fluctuates between 85-88F, and the hot side is 92-95F. She seems situated, but are these readings alright? Her humidity is cosistent at 55-60 since the heat lamp is right under her water, but I keep reading that it should be higher. Can I get some opinions on this?
She's also used to eating live hoppers, according to the shop owner. I'm trying to get her to feed F/T instead, but I have no luck doing so. Tried feeding her last night, and got nothing. I don't think she's stressed, because when I handled her after trying to feed her, her breathing is fine, and she just wrapped on my hand. No jagged turns on her body. So if she's not stressed, why won't she eat? Should I just go ahead and feed her live, like she's used to?
Thanks so much in advanced :'0

It's better to get her to start eating a couple meals first, before offering f/t, if it isn't working anyway. That way, you know that she CAN eat and she isn't refusing food for a different reason. Also, avoid handling her at all until she eats at least once.

Handling does cause a level of stress, which can lead to not eating, which is why it's recommended to not handle a new snake until they're consistently eating. Snakes really don't always give off obvious indicators of stress.

The hot side should be between 90~92. Are you using a thermostat with whatever heat element you're using?

The humidity could be higher. Maybe post a couple pics of your setup?

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

It's better to get her to start eating a couple meals first, before offering f/t, if it isn't working anyway. That way, you know that she CAN eat and she isn't refusing food for a different reason. Also, avoid handling her at all until she eats at least once.

Handling does cause a level of stress, which can lead to not eating, which is why it's recommended to not handle a new snake until they're consistently eating. Snakes really don't always give off obvious indicators of stress.

The hot side should be between 90~92. Are you using a thermostat with whatever heat element you're using?

The humidity could be higher. Maybe post a couple pics of your setup?

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Do you think I should wait to feed her live? Or try tonight/tomorrow night?

When I was handling her, it was when I was transferring her to a plastic tub to try feeding. Maybe I should try feeding her in the enclosure next time? This whole subject has different opinions too, so I'm not sure still how what's the best option.

Her hot side is is warmed by the heat lamp underneath the water dish. Because it gets chilly where i'm staying, I also have a UTH regulated with a thermostat on the cool end, so it doesn't get too cold.

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Originally Posted by BbyBubbles

Do you think I should wait to feed her live? Or try tonight/tomorrow night?

When I was handling her, it was when I was transferring her to a plastic tub to try feeding. Maybe I should try feeding her in the enclosure next time? This whole subject has different opinions too, so I'm not sure still how what's the best option.

Her hot side is is warmed by the heat lamp underneath the water dish. Because it gets chilly where i'm staying, I also have a UTH regulated with a thermostat on the cool end, so it doesn't get too cold.

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Yeah, 100% feed in the enclosure. There's no benefit at all to moving them outside to feed, except for potentially stressing them out and putting a young BP out of "food mode". Honestly, the other opinion is moot. Look at breeders who have a hundred or hundreds of snakes. None of them take each snake outside to feed, and everything is just fine.

I'd wait a 2 or 3 days before trying again. For a baby, it's always better to let them chill for a few days in between any activity.

http://i.imgur.com/z2PVqeR.jpg
Here's her current home. It's a 20 gall tank, but I was having a lot of heat issues because of how big it was, and how big it was for her, so /for the time being/ there's a cardboard divider to make it a 10 gallon instead. The top is a screen mesh, but I have a piece of tempered glass sitting maybe 1/2 an inch away from it, and there's a small opening for air circulation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

Yeah, 100% feed in the enclosure. There's no benefit at all to moving them outside to feed, except for potentially stressing them out and putting a young BP out of "food mode". Honestly, the other opinion is moot. Look at breeders who have a hundred or hundreds of snakes. None of them take each snake outside to feed, and everything is just fine.

I'd wait a 2 or 3 days before trying again. For a baby, it's always better to let them chill for a few days in between any activity.

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Okay, thank you so much! I'll try again in a few days.

Start here for hatchling care...... http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-hatchling-101


Here is help posting photos.......http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-Post-Pictures

Here is your heating set up for an UTH.....
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psqcouxfgn.jpg


Give the little one at least a week without handling to get use to enclosure even better is hands off till you get it eating a couple of meals.

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Originally Posted by BbyBubbles

Here's her current home. It's a 20 gall tank, but I was having a lot of heat issues because of how big it was, and how big it was for her, so /for the time being/ there's a cardboard divider to make it a 10 gallon instead. The top is a screen mesh, but I have a piece of tempered glass sitting maybe 1/2 an inch away from it, and there's a small opening for air circulation.

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Are you using a temp gun to measure the temperatures? I'd also get an Acurite hygrometer, which is digital and much much more accurate than the dial one you have, for measuring humidity.

If you continue to have problems, switch her to a 15 qt tub setup linked above.

If you don't want to, then I'd cover the other two sides with black paper to improve the sense of security. The reason why glass tanks aren't recommended for BP's, especially young BP's, is that it's not enough security to get them to eat, and more difficult to get humidity and heat to the ideal ranges.

Thanks for everything Pit!

One question though, my UTH is stuck to the bottom of my tank and I have the bro be underneath the tank. Is this not a correct way to set up? How can I fix this if the mat is already adhered to the tank?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

Are you using a temp gun to measure the temperatures? I'd also get an Acurite hygrometer, which is digital and much much more accurate than the dial one you have, for measuring humidity.

If you continue to have problems, switch her to a 15 qt tub setup linked above.

If you don't want to, then I'd cover the other two sides with black paper to improve the sense of security. The reason why glass tanks aren't recommended for BP's, especially young BP's, is that it's not enough security to get them to eat, and more difficult to get humidity and heat to the ideal ranges.

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I plan on getting a temp gun with the next paycheck, and i'll look into the hygrometer as well.

I was going to use black construction paper glued to cardboard later this week to cover the two sides of her tank, would that help? I just switched my 100w infrared bulb to a daylight 100w to try lowering the heat on the hot side. As for the setup, do you think I should try and get an identical hide for her warm side asap?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BbyBubbles

Thanks for everything Pit!

One question though, my UTH is stuck to the bottom of my tank and I have the bro be underneath the tank. Is this not a correct way to set up? How can I fix this if the mat is already adhered to the tank?

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You can carefully peel the mat back but you may damage it.
The problem with having the probe under the mat instead of between the mat and the glass is that cold air (a/c) can make the temperatures fluctuate more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

You can carefully peel the mat back but you may damage it.
The problem with having the probe under the mat instead of between the mat and the glass is that cold air (a/c) can make the temperatures fluctuate more.

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Oh, I see...
So I keep seeing online that there are different suggested heat ranges for the warm, cool spots, and I'mstill really confused as to which rages are better. So as a hatching I should set up for 76-78 on the cool end, and 86-88 on the hot end?

1) Covering the sides of the tank with cardboard (or a towel or something) should be fine; whatever prevents your snake from feeling too exposed. Remember the covering should be outside the tank whenever possible; it would be difficult and annoying to clean/replace (especially if it were cardboard) every time your snake makes a mess on it (waste and water and such).
2) It is a good idea (very highly recommended) to have a hide on both sides of the tank in order to give your snake freedom to choose, especially in a clear tank, so s/he doesn't have to sacrifice a comfortable temperature for feeling safe (out of sight).
3) The best temperature guidelines, from what I have read, are keeping the cool end around 80 and the hot end around 90. It's the cool end you should pay more attention to; it is best that it doesn't dip below 75. Again, make sure your snake has hides so it can choose where it feels most comfortable.

A temperature gun is very widely recommended. It is great to be able to tell the temperatures from the cool end, the hot end, the cool end hide, and the hot end hide in mere seconds. Even the water temperature if you should wish.

Most of this advice is from extensive research, not actual experience (yet) so feel free to correct me if you have experienced something different.