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  • 12-27-2016, 03:49 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Below I'm including a a picture of my costum built cage. I think I'm having an issue with ambient temperature. My house's temperature is mostly between 70-75. I live in central FL so no winter here, temperature is central AC controlled.
    The lighting in the cage is always on (I got a daylight and a red light for night time) making the hot spot ambient temperature ~90°F but bringing the cool side up to 80°F.
    This caused my snake to spend 99% of the time in the cool side even after it ate which when I had him on the tub he would go straight to the hot spot after a meal.
    Noticing this I dimmed the light to cool down the hot spot but this lowered the cool side ambient to ~70-75°F and apparently made it so cool that it climbed up to the light (making me think he escaped).

    Base on my setup I would appreciate some comments on what I'm doing wrong and any suggestions on how I could fix it.
    Thanks!

    Here is my cage
    http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...48a35eb8d9.jpg

    And this is when I thought he escaped 😂

    http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9f501292bf.jpg
  • 12-27-2016, 04:15 PM
    KMG
    If the temps are in the correct range it does not matter which side the snake stays on. Many of my snakes hardly ever use their hotspot and they digest fine.

    Get an IR temp gun so you can know a more accurate surface temp of all the areas in the cage.
  • 12-27-2016, 04:15 PM
    BPGator
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Is the light your only heat source?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 12-27-2016, 04:18 PM
    KMG
    I'd make a close out to take away the gap your snake was able to climb into. cutting a square for it should be a snap. Cut it, sand it, paint it, install it.
  • 12-27-2016, 04:50 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by KMG View Post
    If the temps are in the correct range it does not matter which side the snake stays on. Many of my snakes hardly ever use their hotspot and they digest fine.

    Get an IR temp gun so you can know a more accurate surface temp of all the areas in the cage.

    I do have an IR. Hot Spot top of the pyramid gets the hottest at 95 F. Everything else is in the 80- 90 range.


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPGator View Post
    Is the light your only heat source?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    It is, though I didn't think it too necessary because the top of the substrate was getting warm enough. However, I have thought of ways to sneak a UTH in there and will probably do with the current set of fixes I'm doing to it now.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by KMG View Post
    I'd make a close out to take away the gap your snake was able to climb into. cutting a square for it should be a snap. Cut it, sand it, paint it, install it.

    Yes I definitely know I have to take away to ability for him to get in there, but I wanted to address the cause first.
  • 12-27-2016, 05:18 PM
    BPGator
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    How about remove the log, put another pyramid in the middle and allow your bulb(s) to create the original higher temp. If your hot side was 90 and cool side 70, the middle of the enclosure should be around 80. It could be he wanted to be there, but didn't feel secure in the log.

    I use T8 enclosures heated with RHP and have similar temperature gradient. I have 3 hides. My snakes typically occupy the middle and cool side.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 12-27-2016, 07:07 PM
    KMG
    Only certain meet heaters should be used inside a cage. They are not cheap.

    It shouldn't be needed as your numbers sound fine.
  • 12-27-2016, 10:10 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPGator View Post
    How about remove the log, put another pyramid in the middle and allow your bulb(s) to create the original higher temp. If your hot side was 90 and cool side 70, the middle of the enclosure should be around 80. It could be he wanted to be there, but didn't feel secure in the log.

    I use T8 enclosures heated with RHP and have similar temperature gradient. I have 3 hides. My snakes typically occupy the middle and cool side.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I'll try that thanks.
    A couple of questions though.
    1- Do you have your RHP in the floor or in the wall of the cage.
    2- does it increase ambient temperature?

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  • 12-27-2016, 10:12 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by KMG View Post
    It shouldn't be needed as your numbers sound fine.

    I'm really glad to hear that. This is my first snake. I've had him for a few months now. I was kind of second guessing myself.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  • 12-27-2016, 10:25 PM
    BPGator
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by iLikeSneks View Post
    I'll try that thanks.
    A couple of questions though.
    1- Do you have your RHP in the floor or in the wall of the cage.
    2- does it increase ambient temperature?

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

    1- RHPs as far as I know should always be attached to the top of the enclosure and not have any objects within at least 6" from them to prevent overheating. RHP is a radiative heat panel, not a UTH (under tank heat).

    2- the RHP indirectly heats the air. It's radiative heat which means objects in the enclosure absorb the heat. So my hides and substrate will heat up and they in turn will heat the air in the enclosure.

    If you want to look into RHPs, the two most popular choices are Pro Heat and Reptile Basics. I use pro heat.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 12-27-2016, 10:59 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPGator View Post
    1- RHPs as far as I know should always be attached to the top of the enclosure and not have any objects within at least 6" from them to prevent overheating. RHP is a radiative heat panel, not a UTH (under tank heat).

    2- the RHP indirectly heats the air. It's radiative heat which means objects in the enclosure absorb the heat. So my hides and substrate will heat up and they in turn will heat the air in the enclosure.

    If you want to look into RHPs, the two most popular choices are Pro Heat and Reptile Basics. I use pro heat.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks, I will most definitely take a look at it, while it looks like the Temps where ok I'm not too happy with the lighting as the heat source.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  • 12-27-2016, 11:09 PM
    BPGator
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by iLikeSneks View Post
    Thanks, I will most definitely take a look at it, while it looks like the Temps where ok I'm not too happy with the lighting as the heat source.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

    I should mention, an RHP definitely has to be regulated by a thermostat. A dimmer will not suffice. I use Herpstat for my thermostats.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 12-27-2016, 11:18 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPGator View Post
    I should mention, an RHP definitely has to be regulated by a thermostat. A dimmer will not suffice. I use Herpstat for my thermostats.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I figured as much. The only reason I didn't have a thermostat with the light is that I carefully regulated it and had it running a week with the tank empty. I'll do some research on it but I'm liking what I've found so far.

    Any chance I could see a picture of your heater? I went to pro heat's website but it wasn't much help since it looks like they are custom built. And the ones from reptile basic are black but my cage is white :(
  • 12-27-2016, 11:37 PM
    jmcrook
    Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by iLikeSneks View Post
    I figured as much. The only reason I didn't have a thermostat with the light is that I carefully regulated it and had it running a week with the tank empty. I'll do some research on it but I'm liking what I've found so far.

    Any chance I could see a picture of your heater? I went to pro heat's website but it wasn't much help since it looks like they are custom built. And the ones from reptile basic are black but my cage is white :(

    Send bob at pro products an email with your cage specs, cage material, room temperature, cage placement, species you're keeping, etc, and he'll tell you what size panel you want based on your personal setup. They make like 200 different wattage heat panels so they can get you one that will beat suit your needs


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 12-28-2016, 12:03 AM
    KMG
    RHP= Radiant Heat Panel

    I don't have a good picture of mine. I have three from Pro Products and they are very nice. I have another that had worked well but I'm not sure if the brand. It came in my cage from PVC Cages. You can kinda see some RHP is their pics on their site.

    I'm sure Googling some pics would give you plenty of examples as well.
  • 12-28-2016, 12:13 AM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Google did it. I ordered a 80 Watts one from reptile basics. The size is perfect for my cage and the wattage is similar to what I had with the bulbs (75W) so should be enough.

    I have been reading some older posts and the general consensus is to put the probe low, close to the substrate. Any problem with that?
  • 12-28-2016, 12:33 AM
    KMG
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by iLikeSneks View Post
    Google did it. I ordered a 80 Watts one from reptile basics. The size is perfect for my cage and the wattage is similar to what I had with the bulbs (75W) so should be enough.

    I have been reading some older posts and the general consensus is to put the probe low, close to the substrate. Any problem with that?

    That is a common method. Mine is not. It can be seen in post #2 here. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ht=probe+mount

    I'd post a new pic but every time I go to Photobucket my tablet tries to tell me it gave me a virus and the end of the world is coming.
  • 12-28-2016, 12:52 AM
    BPGator
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    I have my probes on the cool side, about mid-level. I used to have it on the hot side, but I've found this results in less temperature fluctuations in my enclosures.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 12-30-2016, 04:15 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Installed it. Currently testing it before putting the little guy in.

    http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c5fd2baf37.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
  • 01-07-2017, 12:23 PM
    iLikeSneks
    Re: Here we go again.. temperature question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BPGator View Post
    How about remove the log, put another pyramid in the middle and allow your bulb(s) to create the original higher temp. If your hot side was 90 and cool side 70, the middle of the enclosure should be around 80. It could be he wanted to be there, but didn't feel secure in the log.

    You were 1000% correct. I put a 3rd pyramid in the middle and now that's his preferred spot. Good suggestion, thanks.


    http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...6abd64816c.jpg
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