Corallus Caninus FORTAZ , PANACUR , REPTOBOOST treatment.

Hello, as some of you know I been having problems with my juvenile emerald tree boa.
Long story short, he's not eating,losing weight,became very dehydrated
went to the vet and after 300$ we came back home with FORTAZ and PANACUR and (REPTOBOOST bought separately.)
Started REPTOBOOST once every 2/3 day. Today was my 4th dosage.
Started FORTAZ (intramuscular)once every 3 days. Today was my second dosage.
Started PANACUR once a day for 3 days and then repeat after 2 weeks same process. Today was 2nd dosage.


I did notice he's a bit more alert.but other than that I don't see any obvious changes I'm not sure when to start offering food, should I wait till he finishes the treatment or while he's on it try to feed him, the nurse said to try feed him today, but as she said she's not very familiar with ETBs mostly ball pythons not arboreals, I really want to see what happenes if I try to feed him tonight.
What do you guys think I should do? Try feed him tonight or just wait a bit more, I mean REPTOBOOST should give him all or most of the nutritional needs and should induce to eat again I don't know what to do guys.
All advice is truly appreciated.

Congrats that he's on the mend. I would double check with the vet on when to start him on feedings of solids again. Unless the nurse can verify that the doctor wants him to start on the timeline that she stated. Usually if a animal is being treated for dehydration along with other debilitating issues they have to rehydrate first and that's where the fluid therapy of reptiboost and water come in.

To me, nothing here suggests this snake is currently on the mend. If you want some help, from those of us that keep arboreal, specifically caninus, provide some background to the animal, a photo would also be good to gauge condition,a photo of the setup along with a description of temps at basking and cool end, humidity, etc., and finally what it is being offered to eat and when.

I am more than happy to offer advice as I have kept and bred these in the past. Currently I only keep Corallus ruschenbergerii.

Warren

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Warren_Booth

To me, nothing here suggests this snake is currently on the mend. If you want some help, from those of us that keep arboreal, specifically caninus, provide some background to the animal, a photo would also be good to gauge condition,a photo of the setup along with a description of temps at basking and cool end, humidity, etc., and finally what it is being offered to eat and when.

I am more than happy to offer advice as I have kept and bred these in the past. Currently I only keep Corallus ruschenbergerii.

Warren

---

Well, actually OP first statement that the animal has a more alert mental state is certainly a improvement. One of the first systems to change in a ill or injured animal on the mend is its level of consciousness and or responsiveness.

Pros I noticed...
he's very much more alert, also he's got stronger, he's jaw seems stronger when I try to open his mouth to tube him down meds not a lot of night movement but alert...
cons till now... NONE

With Emeralds, I have seen many perk up right before death. They are a weird animal (probably not what you want to here). Two major things will really be an indicator of the animals health. 1) is it perching correctly. Tight coil, head tucked on top or in center, and 2) when you mist it, does water bead nicely on its skin. In regards to food, the best clue that your snake will eat, is that at night it will perch with its head downwards. This is a sign that it is waiting for a rodent to walk past and a sign of a willingness to eat.

These can be affected by health, but also strongly by the enclosure set up, heat, humidity, etc.

Warren

i notice that ever since I started treating him with the meds he doesn't coil tightly anymore he's perching really wide not the normal cinnamon bun style I'm sure that has to be because of the meds because it's new it's been happening ever since treatment started that's the con side of what I can visualize meanwhile he flicker his tongue much more now seems more alert.

How is he kept? All of this information can help generate answers. If you want help/advise that is.

Warren

Looking at your pictures, if that is the setup you have the Emerald in still, I would recommend a few changes. The first is the light. Reduce that to either a red build, or change it to a ceramic heat emitter. I assume the lights are you form of heat and that they are on a dimming thermostat. What temps are they set to. What temperature is it perching at? Are you offering it live or dead prey? How are you humidifying it? Based on the condensation that suggests a lack of air flow, and while there are plants, they will not turn over the air fast enough for that. You might want to open some ventilation. Light, heat, and humidity can all create stress, which may eliminate feeding response. It is likely a wild caught snake, so you might want to add an arboreal water bowl also.

Warren

That's old set up. I dismantled everything and just use puppy pads now because I had mites, it's been 2 weeks without seeing a mite so it looks like I succeeded but Once I'm 100% sure about being mites free I'll switch my bedding to something that holds up humidity well.

SETTINGS:

Temperature.

Hot perch.
88.1 right side.
81.6 center.
80.2 left side.

Cold perch.
79.3 right side.
78.0 center.
75.9 left side.

Vine.
71.2 right side.
70.8 center.
70.0 left side.

Cage floor.
68-69 F^.

Water bowl: 69.7 Ft

Humidity. 80%-90% 24/7
Reptifogger
60 watts red heat bulb on 24/7
T8 flourecent lightning 12 hours on 12 hours off

Will post pictures.

[URL="https://ball-pythons.net/gallery//showimage

Based on those original pictures, that animal is very underweight, and if its now coiling loosely, that is also not a good sign. Many will do that when its too warm, and indeed if an animal is fighting an infection heat generated from elevated metabolism might simply be causing it to coil looser. I assume the sides and back of the cage are covered? You want to give it as much shelter and isolation from stress as possible at this time.

When offering food, the best thing to do will be to try a live adult mouse or weaned rat. Place it in a high sided bowl directly under where it is perching, and with sides high enough that the rodent cannot jump out. This should retain the heat signal and scent close to the snake and stir some feeding interest, if hungry. Just putting the mouse or rat in the cage, if feed live, will only work if the snake is healthy and actively hunting. Put the rodent in at night, then leave it alone.

Warren

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...3/img_0447.jpg

Yes I will try that next time I offer food, right now he's too dehydrated bad shape so I'll wait till the meds do something and then try to feed today he started with the deworming hopefully in about 3,4 days I see results and get him to eat can't wait to finish his antibiotics and dewormer it's been a long time and we're both stressed out I guess we both need some peace and quiet.

That snake unfortunately looks very ill. Emeralds at that stage are incredibly hard to turn around. Feeding, if it starts to feed, needs to be taken carefully and slowly (meals every 3 weeks or so). Nothing larger than its mid body, etc. Regurgitation syndrome is extremely common in wild caught animals. This is one of the reason i recommend anyone interested in Emeralds to get a captive breed animals direct from a breeder as an establish baby. They are a tough species to keep. Not one for handling, but a great display animal.
Keep us posted on your feeding attempts. I would go ahead and try what I suggested above. Elevate the tub the rodent would be in to being close to the perch.
Warren

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Panic2336

Yes I will try that next time I offer food, right now he's too dehydrated bad shape so I'll wait till the meds do something and then try to feed today he started with the deworming hopefully in about 3,4 days I see results and get him to eat can't wait to finish his antibiotics and dewormer it's been a long time and we're both stressed out I guess we both need some peace and quiet.

---

How are you making out getting him to keep the reptiboost down and tolerated? Fortaz is a great medication for bacterial infections with virtually no adverse effects. Like all antibiotics though, boosting the ambient temperature aids in its effectiveness and raises the immune response in the animal as well. Good job.

I insert a tube into his stomach and give him reptaboost after administrating the meds I hold him head up and with my thumb I slightly press his belly from neck to tail massaging the meds downwards, and to be honest there's no spills he doesn't spit anything out and keeps it down but I must massage the body for a few minutes and have his head upwards or else will be a fail. Are you saying I should get my temps higher? Will that help with the cure ? Thanks bud.

I would be careful with increased temperatures here. The snake, based on your set up, has access to hotter temps. What temperature is e sitting at mainly? If it is the hottest temp, then yes, increase it a few degrees as he can move to a cooler area. If he is not at the hottest temp, then he can actively choose to move to a hotter temp if needed. Thermal stress is a big killer of Emeralds, so be careful.

Warren

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Panic2336

I insert a tube into his stomach and give him reptaboost after administrating the meds I hold him head up and with my thumb I slightly press his belly from neck to tail massaging the meds downwards, and to be honest there's no spills he doesn't spit anything out and keeps it down but I must massage the body for a few minutes and have his head upwards or else will be a fail. Are you saying I should get my temps higher? Will that help with the cure ? Thanks bud.

---

Boosting the ambient temps by about 3F is a good barometer to help with the effectiveness chemotherapeutically of the antibiotic. In addition, it helps to raise the reptiles innate immune system. I would stay below the 5 degree setting bc that should be enough of a boosted temperature. Certainly you can check with the exotic vet to see how he feels about that.

I boost up the temp a bit more so my hot spot is about 93 I don't think that's too hot but if I'm wrong please correct me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Panic2336

I boost up the temp a bit more so my hot spot is about 93 I don't think that's too hot but if I'm wrong please correct me.

---

I think that's fine. Well, we can always double check the vet's recommendation on that. Warren may want to voice his opinion on it as well. It certainly is a conservative and workable increase in my view.

Yeah, I read a lot about temperature and I came to the conclusion that around 93F is about right for the hot spot since if he gets too warm he can just move to a colder spot up to around 73-75 f which is my coldest right now his body temperature is about 83F I'm thinking about changing the red bulb to a black bulb since I notice he's more active at night with a black light rather than the red one he has now. I'll wait to see what Warren has to say about this hoping its alright.

Where is he currently basking. So if you use an heat gun, what is his body temperature? I think this is how you will gauge an increase in temps. Thermal stress on caninus is a killer. Heat stress can be seen through loose coils and lethargy. Increased temps will also elevate dehydration, so your snake should be in a well hydrated state. If the animal is basking in an area other than the hottest zone, I would leave it as is. The more environmental variables you change, the more stress you put on the animal, the less likelihood it is to survive. Wild caught emeralds are hard to acclimate, hard to pull around when they get sick, and succumb to stress easily. I would tread very carefully. (this is speaking through personally experience with many emeralds over the years. This is why I only recommend cb and established babies/juveniles to people unfamiliar with them.

Your red bulb is fine. Do not change it.

Warren

I guess you're right, I started noticing the coils aren't tight at all very sloppy and started after I took him to the vet and got his first shot. I can see what you're saying about bumPing the temperature and dehydrating I guess I'll go back down a few degrees. Since you're more experienced with etbs than me what should my hot spot be? I do use a heat gun and his body temp is about 83f him not being at the hottest part of cage.

Where'd you purchase the emerald from?!

Backwaterreptiles and I know they are,not people to trust when dealing with reptiles. Lesson learned.

Have you had any more improvement in the tree boa? Updated information.

He's very well hydrated after reptoboost very noticeable improvements, he's more alert he finished fortaz treatment 2 days ago next week I have to give him panacur for 3 more consecutive days then the dewormer treatment is finished. He's still not interested in food hisncoils are very tight looking nice but no night movement he just switches his head front to back but stays in the same spot no "nocturnal hunting mode" that's the update that I have his temps are good humidity is good houseboundry is out of the question. He just does not want to eat. His determined not to eat and with that comes no poop no shed and lots of headaches.

Any updates on this one?
Warren