RHP Setup Questions (In a T8)

Hey everyone,

Where do you set up the probe for RHP? I've been following along this post and you've all provided excellent insights. I've been saving to upgrade to the Herpstat 4 up from my vivarium electronics since I need 3 inputs (one for UTH heat tape and one for each RHP) as I have a T8 with a divider for 2 BPs and want to put an RHP on each side. There is a spot for the probe under the T8 so you can set up your UTH easily with a thermostat but where to put the probe to actively control RHP power is what I am trying to figure out. Does anyone know of any good set up guides/tutorials around? I've tried searching for some set up guides but it mostly just yields results for home improvement projects. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

- Dev

In my Pro Line cage I put the Herpstat probe on the cool side and hang it down about 1" from the floor and then set the Herpstat to 80F. In my AP cages, I only use flexwatt.

I have found using a simple cable strap can work really nicely. I glue the probe into the cable strap and then glue the strap onto the rim of the RHP. I have used super glue and have not had to remount the probes since the day I first installed them years ago.

You do not want the probe to touch the rhp and the cable strap provides a great holder that keeps the prove in place, straight and level, without touching the actual panel.

If you use this method start by setting the RHP temp low. The RHPs are cooler as you get closer to the rim so where the probe is mounted will be cooler than the hotter center. Its really no different than moving away from a heat bulb but I don't think many people realize the entire RHP is no the same temp while operating.

Photobucket is down so I have to add links to other threads where I have posted pics before so you can see what Im talking about.

Post #2
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ht=cable+strap

Post #2 again.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ht=cable+strap

I really like this idea. Out of curiousity are you using a T8 and is it divided? Im just trying to figure out the best size RHPs for my tanks. I'm in Vermont so it gets pretty cold in the winters, apartment living has pretty unpredictable heat.. I'm thinking a 40W RHP on both sides of my divided T8 will be enough to keep my 2 little guys comfy..

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Originally Posted by Dev_DeCoste

I really like this idea. Out of curiousity are you using a T8 and is it divided? Im just trying to figure out the best size RHPs for my tanks. I'm in Vermont so it gets pretty cold in the winters, apartment living has pretty unpredictable heat.. I'm thinking a 40W RHP on both sides of my divided T8 will be enough to keep my 2 little guys comfy..

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I contacted ProProducts when I ordered mine and told them what my cage sizes were and the temps I needed. They suggested my best choice and drop shipped them to my cage builder who then installed them and sent the completed product to me.

None of my cages are a T8. The pic with the black rimmed rhp came in my GTP cage I ordered from PVC Cages. The white rimmed rhp is a ProProducts panel ordered straight from them.

You should get good use from the T8. Those are nice cages.

This is from the ProProducts site and gives you the insight of what all goes into selecting the correct panel. I highly suggest calling them and speaking to them about just what you need. Its a science and they know their stuff. Very friendly and helpful when I called and shipped my order out quick.

"There are many factors that can affect which size Pro Heat™ Radiant Panels is correct for a particular application. In order to determine the correct panel we need to know the following information:
•The size of the cage (L,W,H)
•What the cage is made out of
•How many vents are installed and where in the cage
•What type of animal is being kept
•What the ambient and low temperatures are in the room where the cage is being kept.
•Is the cage being kept in a room with a concrete floor or in a basement."

http://pro-products.com/pro-heat/

For a divided T8 usually a 40w from reptile basics for each side will work depending on room temps. Like above said you can also contact pro products, they are a little more expensive but a very good company. I use both reptile basics and pro products rhp and they work great. From what I read (correct me if I'm wrong) it sounded like your going to use uth and rhp together? You only need one rhp for each snake, the rhp will be installed on the left side or right side of the ceiling of your snakes cage and it will heat both the hot and cool side so there's no need for a uth also.

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I drilled holes in the sides of my cages to put the probe through and have them sitting a couple inches down from the rhp.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

For a divided T8 usually a 40w from reptile basics for each side will work depending on room temps. Like above said you can also contact pro products, they are a little more expensive but a very good company. I use both reptile basics and pro products rhp and they work great. From what I read (correct me if I'm wrong) it sounded like your going to use uth and rhp together? You only need one rhp for each snake, the rhp will be installed on the left side or right side of the ceiling of your snakes cage and it will heat both the hot and cool side so there's no need for a uth also.

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That is correct.The UTH works but the air temp still gets too low. Does it matter how close the RHP is too the light inside of the T8?

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Originally Posted by Dev_DeCoste

That is correct.The UTH works but the air temp still gets too low. Does it matter how close the RHP is too the light inside of the T8?

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I would leave a few inches between the light and rhp, the further you away you can get it the better, I have my lights about 3-4 inches from rhp.

What I was saying is since your going to be using rhp you no longer need to use uth. If you put the rhp on the left side or right side of the ceiling and set the thermostat until the ground temp is 88-90 under the rhp the heat will also radiat over to cool side making it around 80 giving you a perfect heat gradient without using the uth and wasting power. Using a uth with a rhp is wasting the benefits of a rhp IMO, unless of course the rhp can't get the hot side to temp and in that case it would be ok but would be better to get a stronger rhp then. My house is 60-65 24/7 365 days a year and I have no problem using a 40w rhp to maintain temperature and I don't use any other heating device with them.

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Also remember to keep a distance of about 6"+ between the RHP and anything on the floor like hides etc. Too close and it will cause the RHP to overheat and pop and then you are done.

Yeah the temp in my apartment is pretty unpredictable since I have no control over the heat thermostat. Sometimes the room the snakes are in is warm, sometimes it gets chilly. I just want to get this T8 set up fully once and for all. Also with a proportional thermostat I don't think it would be wasting power to use both since it doesn't feed power to a heat source once the desired temp is reached, no? I also need to figure out the right size screw to screw in the thermometer probe to the T8 floor since both my snakes knock it off of the sticky thing within a week of setting it up, so I really don't get accurate readings of surface temp, I tend to rely on my thermostat for that (set up a few degrees hotter than what I want surface temp to be)...

sooooooo is it NOT ok to just lay the probe on the surface of the bedding directly under the rhp???? i have a 80watt rhp hooked into a ve-200 for my t8

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Originally Posted by erebus45

sooooooo is it NOT ok to just lay the probe on the surface of the bedding directly under the rhp???? i have a 80watt rhp hooked into a ve-200 for my t8

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No you shouldn't do that. The snake can lay on it, poop on it, pee on it, push it under the substrate or push it or drag it off. All of which will change the reading. I put my probes on the cool end and hang them down about 1-2 inches off the substrate depending how tall the snake is. That way he can hit it but it will just fall back to the original spot. And obviously you will want to set what you want the cool side to be at. Then just put a hide under the RHP and make sure there is a gap of at least 6" between the top of the hide and the RHP.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

No you shouldn't do that. The snake can lay on it, poop on it, pee on it, push it under the substrate or push it or drag it off. All of which will change the reading. I put my probes on the cool end and hang them down about 1-2 inches off the substrate depending how tall the snake is. That way he can hit it but it will just fall back to the original spot. And obviously you will want to set what you want the cool side to be at. Then just put a hide under the RHP and make sure there is a gap of at least 6" between the top of the hide and the RHP.

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what should i hang it with? when i put the probe in i drilled a small hole in the back of the cage on the warm side i guess ill just run it all the way across the cage and hang it. is their anyway you could post a pic so i have a visual on what i need to do please...i want to get this fixed asap i guess i wasent thinking clearly when i just laid it their ... thank you

Well if you are using an AP cage, then you can just drill a hole on the cool side top of the back wall and slide it through and secure it on the outside with a piece of aluminum foil tape or any other highly sticky tape. This picture isn't my AP cages as I use flexwatt on all those but here is what I do in my Pro Line cage. The slits in the back already but vent holes but they fit the probe perfect.https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...6c1de6_z_d.jpg

Just got done moving it....thank you for all your help and the pic

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No problem.

I use either cable holder clips or a little dab of hot glue to glue the probe wire to the edge of the RHP so it hangs down just below the RHP. This allows me to control the temp of the RHP more carefully, since the further away the probe is, the more other factors will influence it (like outside temps).

So far, I haven't had luck using just two 40 watt RHPs in a divided T8. Even with them offset to one side (I have both of mine towards the middle), it does not create enough of a gradient in each compartment. Most I can get out of it is a 3-5 degree spread (so if I set the RHP to 90, the cool side would only be 86 or so). In a full T8 with an 80 watt RHP, this method works perfectly. I put the RHP on one side and set it to 90 and the other side falls in right around 80. I think with the smaller 2x2 compartments, the heat just fills the whole thing too easily. So I think I will set my 40 watt RHPs down to the ambient temp and use a UTH under the middle to create a hot spot.

Hope that makes sense.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

I would leave a few inches between the light and rhp, the further you away you can get it the better, I have my lights about 3-4 inches from rhp.

What I was saying is since your going to be using rhp you no longer need to use uth. If you put the rhp on the left side or right side of the ceiling and set the thermostat until the ground temp is 88-90 under the rhp the heat will also radiat over to cool side making it around 80 giving you a perfect heat gradient without using the uth and wasting power. Using a uth with a rhp is wasting the benefits of a rhp IMO, unless of course the rhp can't get the hot side to temp and in that case it would be ok but would be better to get a stronger rhp then. My house is 60-65 24/7 365 days a year and I have no problem using a 40w rhp to maintain temperature and I don't use any other heating device with them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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This is right here answers an on going questions I have. I recently moved into a new apartment and our heat (apartment) seems to be either all or nothing, so ambient temps are in the 65* range or its 85* when the heat is on. I have a rack set up (41qt), and the ambient on the cool side got way to low, so i currently have the entire rack insulated and a space heater. If I went to a T8 and put an RHP, that will actually heat the air to keep the ambient up? Reptile Basics customer support said it will no do anything for ambient temps inside of a T8. That it is just a basking spot, and I will continue to have the same problems i'm having with a rack set up.

Thanks,
Steve

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Originally Posted by Stearns84

This is right here answers an on going questions I have. I recently moved into a new apartment and our heat (apartment) seems to be either all or nothing, so ambient temps are in the 65* range or its 85* when the heat is on. I have a rack set up (41qt), and the ambient on the cool side got way to low, so i currently have the entire rack insulated and a space heater. If I went to a T8 and put an RHP, that will actually heat the air to keep the ambient up? Reptile Basics customer support said it will no do anything for ambient temps inside of a T8. That it is just a basking spot, and I will continue to have the same problems i'm having with a rack set up.

Thanks,
Steve

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That's both right and wrong what they said. Rhp heat objects like the ground, hides, decor, cage walls, your snake, etc which then the heat coming off the objects heats the air some. I have a perfect gradient in my 60-65 degree house in all my enclosures. Like I said before having your rhp set for 88-90 on the ground under it will make the cool side around 80. I use reptile basic 40w for half a T8 or 80w for full T8. 40w also works well in my 28x24x12. I also really like pro-products 88w rhp for full T8 and T10, they seem to heat better with less power consumption than reptile basics but I also use reptile basics and they are a great product.

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Great thank you so much. I have large female ball and a dwarf male retic so I figured I'd just pull the trigger and get (2) T8's and RHPs. But was a little lost when Reptile Basics said otherwise. This is exactly what I need! Thank you for all your help!

-Steve