Your Opinion On Thermostats?

I've seen a lot of suggestions on this forum about what type of thermostats are popular, but I wanted to get a consolidated thread of everyone's opinions before I go out and spend hundreds of dollars on the top market one. As my username suggests, I don't know a whole lot about snakes and husbandry yet so bear with me!

I want to get a Herpstat 2 so that I can regulate my UTH and heat lamp simultaneously. I only have one enclosure though so I was wondering if this would be excessive. I saw someone on another thread suggest a cheap non-proportional thermostat for the UTH and a light dimmer for the lamp. While that would be more cost effective, I really like the idea of just hooking them up to one unit and having accurate regulation.

Do you guys think it would be worth while to go ahead and spend the money on a Herpstat, or would the cheaper alternative make more sense for my situation?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snake_Newb

Do you guys think it would be worth while to go ahead and spend the money on a Herpstat, or would the cheaper alternative make more sense for my situation?

---

For my money, there isn't a better thermostat available that will both keep my temperatures on par and give me the piece of mind I need in order to not worry about the "what-ifs" of a lesser quality thermostat. I'm not the one spending your money though. ;)

Most T-Stats will not work correctly with bulbs. I would get a T-Stat for your mat and a dimmer for the bulb.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jclaiborne

Most T-Stats will not work correctly with bulbs. I would get a T-Stat for your mat and a dimmer for the bulb.

---

I disagree. If you have a good tstat it should work a bulb or CHE just fine. I have had to issue with doing it. The most important part in doing so is the placement of the probe and the type of bulb being used. Spot vs. Flood. It is also equally important you set the tstat up correctly to work with the heating equipment you are using.

OP, I have four Herpstats so I think you can figure out my vote. A Herpstat2 will control a lamp and uth great.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KMG

The most important part in doing so is the placement of the probe and the type of bulb being used.

---

Where would you suggest placing the probe? I use a red light.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snake_Newb

Where would you suggest placing the probe? I use a red light.

---

Many things come into play with this and it is really best to dial it in without the snake in the cage.

With a over head light or CHE I personally like to keep the probe outside the cage and somewhere in the path of the heat. Depending on the type of light fixture you are using you may be able to hang it from the rim of the fixture. You can also get some stiff wire that you can bend to the dimensions you need and then attach it to something sturdy, ie lamp stand, back of cage, light fixture.

If your setup does not allow for this it is a common practice to hang the probe and allow it to dangle on the side of the enclosure. I personally like to keep the probe as close to the path of heat as possible. For example if I have a heat lamp pointing at a warm hide I would try to place the hide near the back wall and then dangle the probe on the wall just behind it.

If you dangle it you want the probe to be about one to two inches from the top of the substrate. You also want to maintain a clear path between the heat source and the probe. Do not hang or place plants around the probe or any other object that the snake can move and block the probe from reading the heat correctly. It may not seem like much for a leaf to block some heat but it could be all that is needed to quickly over heat the enclosure or hotspot.

When you are dialing something like this in start by setting the tstat really low. Since the probe is not close to the bulb or the path of heat it is will be reading a much lower temp than the actual area being heated(the area under the heating device). This is extremely important when using a spot light bulb over the regular flooding style bulb. Usually a regular bulb works fine unless the fixture is a far distance from the surface you are trying to heat. An example of that is having a really tall cage where the heat source is more than two feet from the hotspot.

When dialing this in a IR temp gun is a must. They are cheap on Amazon and are a keepers best friend. You can save a lot of money by buying a good IR temp gun instead of using cheap thermometers that only end up breaking. Using a temp gun you can quickly and easily check every area in the cage and make sure you have the hotspot correct and no danger zones be that hot or cold. This will make the setup much easier.

When adjusting the tstat give it a full hour between changes as the heat source needs time to reach and rest at the set temp. After you are sure the numbers are steady make another adjustment until you get it where you want it. Also over this period a tip is keep the room temp steady as if it is fluctuating the tstat will be working against it. This is not an issue after you get the system set up as the tstat will do its job and adjust. Its just important while setting it up the room temps stays constant.

Also make sure your snake cage does not set in a location that takes a beating from the sun at any point during the day. The sun can really warm a cage and even with a tstat it can really mess with your temps.

Lots of good info, thanks for the advice!

The newer Herpstats have a heat lamp function setting. I use it for my CHE on my JCP is her temporary cage and it works awesome. My advice is buy the best T-stat you can afford since that is the single most important item. It will keep or reduce burns on your reptiles and chances of fire in your house. I vote Herpstats personally as that's what I use but VEs are good too but don't have as much bells and whistles as Herpstats. Also I am not sure if VEs have upgradable firmware like Herpstats do. I say go for a Herpstat 2. It will allow you to do what you want and if you don't need it now, you always have that extra slot for if/when you get another reptile.

My two cents is to always buy a thermostat with multiple zone functions. You may start off only needing one zone for one rack but if you think there is even a chance you will have multiple racks or tanks in the future, it's much cheaper to have one t-stat with multiple zones than to buy two single zone t-stats.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

The newer Herpstats have a heat lamp function setting. I use it for my CHE on my JCP is her temporary cage and it works awesome.

---

Not to detail the thread, but what function are you talking about? Mine have a dimming and pulse option for heating. Are you referring to those or something different?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. The newer ones have also have a basking light feature in them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

Yes. The newer ones have also have a basking light feature in them.

---

Ah - thanks. Mine have that, I've just never realized what it's for. Based on the write-up in the instructions, I'm not really sure how it differs from the regular mode.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use herpstats as well. I get trying to save money, but in my opinion, if you can spend a little more and save yourself a little headache as possible down the road, I'd go for it.

A herpstat 2 will run you ~$200, but ball pythons can live anywhere from 10-30 years. They aren't exactly short lived, so might as well spend a little more up front to have everything good from the get go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

Ah - thanks. Mine have that, I've just never realized what it's for. Based on the write-up in the instructions, I'm not really sure how it differs from the regular mode.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

The basking light feature is why I stated they don't generally work with bulbs, that feature is new, a few years back when I was setting up my lizard cages I called Herpstat and Helix and asked about their units with Halogen Flood Bulbs, they told me while a proportional T-Stat will control them, they will kill the life of the bulb and they don't recommend them for use with bulbs, that was directly from the MFG, I have not messed with them since the incorporated the light feature, so I can't speak to what is different about them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jclaiborne

The basking light feature is why I stated they don't generally work with bulbs, that feature is new, a few years back when I was setting up my lizard cages I called Herpstat and Helix and asked about their units with Halogen Flood Bulbs, they told me while a proportional T-Stat will control them, they will kill the life of the bulb and they don't recommend them for use with bulbs, that was directly from the MFG, I have not messed with them since the incorporated the light feature, so I can't speak to what is different about them.

---

So it just tries to maintain the power constant rather than constantly fluctuating to maintain temperature? So you know if the same is true for a CHE; should a CHE be run with basking on or off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

So it just tries to maintain the power constant rather than constantly fluctuating to maintain temperature? So you know if the same is true for a CHE; should a CHE be run with basking on or off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I honestly have no clue, because at this point I don't use a T-Stat for my Lizards. I would say if you want a definitive answer call Herpstat directly. Like I said going back a few years when I called them they said to not use them with bulbs, now with this new feature it seems as though you can, they will be able to explain it best. That just my 2 cents.

I run the basking setting with my CHE for my JCP and it works fine. It keeps it within a couple degrees of 90F all the time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sauzo

I run the basking setting with my CHE for my JCP and it works fine. It keeps it within a couple degrees of 90F all the time.

---

I was curious so I emailed Spyder Robotics. Dion says it's meant for basking lights only and not needed for CHE (won't hurt though). He did say this though:

"When using a CHE there is no need for [basking turned on] in most cases. The only time I would consider it would be if the temp seemed to reach temp and then drop a half degree or so before it raised back up to target. That would be an indication that the CHE is taking too long to warm back up when power is reapplied so turning basking on could smooth that out. However, adjusting how near or far the probe is from the CHE could also solve that."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

I was curious so I emailed Spyder Robotics. Dion says it's meant for basking lights only and not needed for CHE (won't hurt though). He did say this though:

"When using a CHE there is no need for [basking turned on] in most cases. The only time I would consider it would be if the temp seemed to reach temp and then drop a half degree or so before it raised back up to target. That would be an indication that the CHE is taking too long to warm back up when power is reapplied so turning basking on could smooth that out. However, adjusting how near or far the probe is from the CHE could also solve that."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I could see that with a CHE. They are not as fast to heat as a bulb and adjust more slowly so I can understand why it may not be needed on a CHE.

I do really like using CHEs. I have a heated room now but the ones I had worked well and were still working when I changed to a snake room. One of them had been running non stop for well over a year at full power. Ended up being much cheaper than heat bulbs.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BPGator

I was curious so I emailed Spyder Robotics. Dion says it's meant for basking lights only and not needed for CHE (won't hurt though). He did say this though:

"When using a CHE there is no need for [basking turned on] in most cases. The only time I would consider it would be if the temp seemed to reach temp and then drop a half degree or so before it raised back up to target. That would be an indication that the CHE is taking too long to warm back up when power is reapplied so turning basking on could smooth that out. However, adjusting how near or far the probe is from the CHE could also solve that."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Good to know man. I never talked to Dion about it, I just used it for my CHE. I did talk to Dion about the ability upgrade firmware though on the older models since I got one old model. And yeah I keep my probe between the CHE and my JCPs perch and then adjust until I get the perfect temp on her perch.