New ball python/ worrying

Okay, I got my baby ball python Monday and done a lot of research on them. so today I tried to get her out of the hide so she can recognize my scent and get use to me. She hasnt eaten and refused to eat I'm gonna try again Saturday or Sunday she seems healthy though. The thing I'm worried about is when I approach her she makes a weird noise every time I do so and starts to breathe heavy is it stress or early stages of respiratory disease? The heat spot is at 85.5 and the cool side is at 80. I hope I'm doing everything right. Thank you!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

Okay, I got my baby ball python Monday and done a lot of research on them. so today I tried to get her out of the hide so she can recognize my scent and get use to me. She hasnt eaten and refused to eat I'm gonna try again Saturday or Sunday she seems healthy though. The thing I'm worried about is when I approach her she makes a weird noise every time I do so and starts to breathe heavy is it stress or early stages of respiratory disease? The heat spot is at 85.5 and the cool side is at 80. I hope I'm doing everything right. Thank you!

---

You'll want to bring your hot side up to 90 your cool side is fine also keep your humidity at 55%.Don't handle her for about two weeks so she can get use to her new home after that you need to try and feed her first meal.

Don't handle until she starts eating consistently. Only try feeding once every 7 days and once she starts eating regularly you can feed every 5 if you want, offering food everyday or every couple days will cause stress.

What are you using to house her in? What are you using to take temps? What are you using to take humidity? What are you using as a heat source? How are you regulating the heat source? What are you using as substrate? What type and size of prey did you offer? What was she eating before you bought her?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

If she is breathing heavy and is stiff she is scared. If you are not seeing any discharge or bubbles from her mouth and is not "stargazing" odds are there is no RI. Do as lance said and just let her chill out. If you keep trying to feed her often it will just freak her out more. I know its very tempting to play with your new pet, but ideally you want her to eat for you before you mess with her too much. How old is she? About what does she weigh?

I'm housing her in a 20 gallon tank though I think it may be a bit too big but I added some stuff in her enclosure to make her feel more secure. I'm using a digital thermometer it came with the tank and a regular thermometer/Hygrometer placed in the tank. I'm using a Heat lamp for the time being until I get a new heat pad and a black light for night time. I'm using the forest floor ZOO MED. PetSmart said they were using fuzzies for her she hasn't eaten since I got her, she was suppose to eat yesterday but she refused it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

If she is breathing heavy and is stiff she is scared. If you are not seeing any discharge or bubbles from her mouth and is not "stargazing" odds are there is no RI. Do as lance said and just let her chill out. If you keep trying to feed her often it will just freak her out more. I know its very tempting to play with your new pet, but ideally you want her to eat for you before you mess with her too much. How old is she? About what does she weigh?

---

She's a month old and I'm not entirely sure how much she weighs tbh

Make sure you have read this http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

A month old is pretty young. Ball pythons don't follow our rules with eating and can go a long time without food. This is a young animal though so she shouldn't miss too many meals. Try to post a picture and we should be able to tell by her picture just how pressing it is that she eats. There are many threads on hear about feeding. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JodanOrNoDan

Make sure you have read this http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

A month old is pretty young. Ball pythons don't follow our rules with eating and can go a long time without food. This is a young animal though so she shouldn't miss too many meals. Try to post a picture and we should be able to tell by her picture just how pressing it is that she eats. There are many threads on hear about feeding. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.

---

http://prntscr.com/bpr7om It was hard to get a good picture of her since shes always hiding

- - - Updated - - -

http://prntscr.com/bpr7om

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

I'm housing her in a 20 gallon tank though I think it may be a bit too big but I added some stuff in her enclosure to make her feel more secure. I'm using a digital thermometer it came with the tank and a regular thermometer/Hygrometer placed in the tank. I'm using a Heat lamp for the time being until I get a new heat pad and a black light for night time. I'm using the forest floor ZOO MED. PetSmart said they were using fuzzies for her she hasn't eaten since I got her, she was suppose to eat yesterday but she refused it.

---

The twenty isn't to big I have my baby BP in a forty and have like 6-8 hides so your twenty is fine as long as it's cluttered up.If you can get a live fuzzie try that it's natrual instict for them to eat live i went from assist feeding frozen to live with no problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LanceM

The twenty isn't to big I have my baby BP in a forty and have like 6-8 hides so your twenty is fine as long as it's cluttered up.If you can get a live fuzzie try that it's natrual instict for them to eat live i went from assist feeding frozen to live with no problem.

---

Okay, Thank you and to everyone else! I feed her in separate areas when feeding live right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

Okay, Thank you and to everyone else! I feed her in separate areas when feeding live right?

---

No. Feed her in her enclosure. Many BPs won't eat if you move them, just stresses them out.

I have another question I forgot to mention.. My ball hides at night time too is that normal? I'm a night owl and I haven't seen her move at all.. maybe like once at 5 in the morning. Does that mean shes just getting use to her enclosure and environment?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

I have another question I forgot to mention.. My ball hides at night time too is that normal? I'm a night owl and I haven't seen her move at all.. maybe like once at 5 in the morning. Does that mean shes just getting use to her enclosure and environment?

---

Mine usually hides at night time when it is shedding, but yes when I first got my BP he wouldn't come out at night till after about a week, I'm guessing it's normal. Sometimes though they just don't feel like leaving their hide.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jaydan

Mine usually hides at night time when it is shedding, but yes when I first got my BP he wouldn't come out at night till after about a week, I'm guessing it's normal. Sometimes though they just don't feel like leaving their hide.

---

Hmm that actually could be her shedding because I think she has a little bit of shed on her.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

I'm housing her in a 20 gallon tank though I think it may be a bit too big but I added some stuff in her enclosure to make her feel more secure. I'm using a digital thermometer it came with the tank and a regular thermometer/Hygrometer placed in the tank. I'm using a Heat lamp for the time being until I get a new heat pad and a black light for night time. I'm using the forest floor ZOO MED. PetSmart said they were using fuzzies for her she hasn't eaten since I got her, she was suppose to eat yesterday but she refused it.

---

Make sure you have a thermostat before you hook up a heat pad, without one your snake will get burned. Are you just using a regular day heat lamp? If so you need to get a red, blue, or black heat bulb immediately. They need heat 24/7 and using a bulb meant for day at night would be very stressful. You can run the night time ones 24/7 when you get it. Also if you mean an analog thermometer/hygrometer they are very inaccurate and you will need a digital thermometer/hygrometer with probe like the acurite 00891.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

Okay, Thank you and to everyone else! I feed her in separate areas when feeding live right?

---

I fed all mine in separate tubs when you move her to her feeding area wait about five minutes so she settles down then try feeding her.

As far as feeding in a separate enclosure vs. main enclosure it's better to feed in the main enclosure IMO (whether live or f/t). Moving a snake to a separate enclosure causes stress, then if it does eat you then have to move a snake that is in feeding mode back into there living enclosure which can cause you to get bit or a regurge. Also the snake is going to associate the separate enclosure with feeding only. In the main enclosure you don't have to worry about moving the snake causing stress with possible regurge, your suppose to leave the snake alone for 48hrs after eating and a separate feeding enclosure does not allow you to do that. You don't have to grab the snake after either so you won't get bit from a snake in feeding mode and the snake won't associate there living enclosure with feeding time bc it does way more then eat in there bc it hides, sleeps, explores, goes to the bathroom, tons of things while a separate enclosure only represents food to the snake. Weighing out the pros and cons IMO feeding in main enclosure is the smarter, safer way for both you and your snake. Just make sure you never leave a live rodent unattended with your snake.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

With regard to the sound she's making, it's probably just hissing because she's a little nervous or irritated. Follow the advice everyone has given about letting her sit for a few days and start eating well before you attempt handling again. She should be just fine, try to relax and be patient. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

Okay, I got my baby ball python Monday and done a lot of research on them. so today I tried to get her out of the hide so she can recognize my scent and get use to me. She hasnt eaten and refused to eat I'm gonna try again Saturday or Sunday she seems healthy though. The thing I'm worried about is when I approach her she makes a weird noise every time I do so and starts to breathe heavy is it stress or early stages of respiratory disease? The heat spot is at 85.5 and the cool side is at 80. I hope I'm doing everything right. Thank you!

---

It's obvious your snake is afraid of you which is very common with baby ball pythons, it's that fear response or instinct that would help keep that snake alive if it were in the wild because in the wild everything is trying to eat them.

I would also hold that snake as much as 15 minutes a day every day. When you reach into the snake's cage, without hesitation reach behind the snake and gently pick it up, while holding the snake I would make sure that the snake's head is pointing away from your body so that the snake is looking away from you rather than at you, don't touch the snake's head and let the snake gently crawl through your fingers literally for 15 minutes a day. Your temps are OK, but I'd like to see that 85.5 become closer to 90. I would get a hide box not just a cover like they sell at PetSmart or Petco, but one where you snake can call it's home I have included a photo of the hides that I use, I think you can get one from Big Apple, Bean Farm or LLL Reptiles. A snake that is fearing for it's life typically won't feel like eating. When you feed the snake I would feed it inside the hide box. For my more finicky snakes I will actually lock them inside their hide box with the food item for no less than 15 minutes. If the snake does not eat the food item I would try again in two days.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...psiljmv6by.jpg

Not only am I a snake farmer / snake breeder, but I'm also a Falconer, there is a term in Falconry called Manning, this term refers to a technique that Falconers use to tame down wild caught birds of pretty. When a Falconer catches a wild bird of prey he will take the bird home and set up the bird with jess straps and a leash, the Falconer will then spend no less than 18 hours nonstop with the bird in a somewhat dark room such as a bath room or closet. During that time the Falconer will gently touch the bird all over it's body and talk to it in a very soothing voice. The hope is by spending a huge amount of time gently working with that bird it will soon learn to trust you or at least learn not to be afraid of you. It's amazing just how fast the birds will calm down during that time that they are smothered with attention. It's then and only then that the bird will begin to take food from your hand. If you leave your snake alone like most people will tell you to do you will be doing nothing to gain that snake's trust and it will continue to be afraid of you. I always recommend that you feed the snake in its cage / hide box the day after you receive it. There is nothing more anti productive than having a scared hungry snake.

I have over 500 videos on YouTube many of those videos are focused on educating / helping people like you get on the fast track of how to care for these animals. Just put my name Brian Gundy into the YouTube search box and all of my videos will appear.

Feel free to call me at 408-981-6694 or email me at fgsnakes@sbcglobal.net if you would like more information.

I hope this helps, good luck with your new ball python and welcome to the family.

Brian Gundy / For Goodness Snakes

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by For Goodness Snakes

When a Falconer catches a wild bird of prey he will take the bird home and set up the bird with jess straps and a leash, the Falconer will then spend no less than 18 hours nonstop with the bird in a somewhat dark room such as a bath room or closet. During that time the Falconer will gently touch the bird all over it's body and talk to it in a very soothing voice.

---

Sounds horrifying for the animal! It also sounds like the basic plot to a creepy BDSM horror movie. And at the risk of pointing out a blinding flash of the obvious, Falcons are not Ball Pythons.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by For Goodness Snakes

If you leave your snake alone like most people will tell you to do you will be doing nothing to gain that snake's trust and it will continue to be afraid of you.

---

Ok, I have several things to say here, most of which will get me suspended from this Forum for awhile. SOOOOOOO, let me just say that I don't care how many YouTube videos you have, and I don't care how many Falcons you take in the closet, the advice you give in the above quote is simply wrong.

Your advise is a recipe for a stressed out, sick snake that won't eat.

And if you think that any ball python in anyone's collection trusts them, you are deluding yourself as to the cognitive and emotional capability of an animal with a brain the size of an English pea. Can they learn to tolerate our handling of them, and can they learn to accommodate their surroundings? Of course they can. But trust? That simply isn't a trait found in snakes.

Idk. If I take my BPs out of their tanks, they immediately unball and start exploring. If I let someone new handle them, they stay balled up until the person has remained still for a long time and hasn't done anything scary. If that person handles them again, they seem to recognize their scent and will unball much faster than they will with a stranger. If the person has done something to scare them in the past, they'll never come unballed for that person.

Is that not trust? Or something like it, whatever word you like, lol.

ETA: oh, I should add, I don't think flooding will work on a BP. Reptiles have fairly primitive brains and if you flood them they'll probably just shut down, go into survival mode. And they won't eat in survival mode.

Whether it works or is necessary in other species I won't comment.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slim

Sounds horrifying for the animal! It also sounds like the basic plot to a creepy BDSM horror movie. And at the risk of pointing out a blinding flash of the obvious, Falcons are not Ball Pythons.




Ok, I have several things to say here, most of which will get me suspended from this Forum for awhile. SOOOOOOO, let me just say that I don't care how many YouTube videos you have, and I don't care how many Falcons you take in the closet, the advice you give in the above quote is simply wrong.

Your advise is a recipe for a stressed out, sick snake that won't eat.

And if you think that any ball python in anyone's collection trusts them, you are deluding yourself as to the cognitive and emotional capability of an animal with a brain the size of an English pea. Can they learn to tolerate our handling of them, and can they learn to accommodate their surroundings? Of course they can. But trust? That simply isn't a trait found in snakes.

---

I would suggest re reading that sentence. "The hope is by spending a huge amount of time gently working with that bird it will soon learn to trust you OR LEAST LEARN NOT TO BE AFRAID OF YOU. Believe me the brain of a Red Tailed Hawk isn't much bigger than that of a ball python's brain. In the future if you're going to quote me I would appreciate it if you would at least complete the sentence.

Twenty years ago when I first started doing reptile educational presentations in the San Francisco Bay Area I was warned by just about every breeder I knew that by having my snakes in front of people the snakes would get stressed out and that stress would be the cause of health issues including the lack of feeding response. I appreciated everyone's concern, but sometimes you just got to make these decisions based on your own logic, common sense and experience rather than the logic, common sense and experience of others, that's when I created the other side of my business called For Goodness Snakes Adventures. Sure I wondered how the snakes would act or react when handled by hundreds of children at a time, but was relieved to see that they handled the crowds of children with no issues at all. Now twenty years later and 50,000 people later my snakes are doing fantastic. Just to put my business into perspective I now do between 200 and 300 reptile programs a year that means that 15,000 children per year touch and handle my ball pythons including some that are on my breeding team. We have never had any issues (no one has ever been bit) and the 200 plus snakes in my collection's health level has never been better. Sometimes I do between 5 and 6 presentations a day. In fact I just got home a few minutes ago from doing a program and in a few minutes I'll be going out to feed the collection and as always I don't expect any issues from those that were with me today.

So when you say (and I'm sure that most people would agree with you ) that by handling your snake 15 minutes a day is and I quote you "Your advise is a recipe for a stressed out, sick snake that won't eat", I just smile and shake my head.

Here is a link to one of my videos that will show you what I do at the end of my reptile presentations and again I do about 300 of them a year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHTt75jgsA

A note to the newbies: It's OK to think outside of the box when it comes to these animals, don't be afraid to try new things to push the envelope.
Remember breeding and selling ball pythons is more of an art than a science, question everything and don't be afraid to try new things.
I'm one of the lucky ones because I get to do this for a living, but no matter how many times I've been told I was wrong or that I was going to fail I leaned on my own experiences, I listened to myself rather than those narrow minded people that were advising me.

Like I've said before I'm here for you guys, let me know if I can help.

Brian Gundy
For Goodness Snakes
408-981-6694

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chrid16371

As far as feeding in a separate enclosure vs. main enclosure it's better to feed in the main enclosure IMO (whether live or f/t). Moving a snake to a separate enclosure causes stress, then if it does eat you then have to move a snake that is in feeding mode back into there living enclosure which can cause you to get bit or a regurge. Also the snake is going to associate the separate enclosure with feeding only. In the main enclosure you don't have to worry about moving the snake causing stress with possible regurge, your suppose to leave the snake alone for 48hrs after eating and a separate feeding enclosure does not allow you to do that. You don't have to grab the snake after either so you won't get bit from a snake in feeding mode and the snake won't associate there living enclosure with feeding time bc it does way more then eat in there bc it hides, sleeps, explores, goes to the bathroom, tons of things while a separate enclosure only represents food to the snake. Weighing out the pros and cons IMO feeding in main enclosure is the smarter, safer way for both you and your snake. Just make sure you never leave a live rodent unattended with your snake.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

---

There's definitely pros and cons to feeding separate. My rule feeding separate is 15 minutes after they realign their jaws move them back. Never had a regurge or a skipped feeding afterwards and feeding separate has never seemed stressful for my animals (my determination being they eat and they eat the time after) however that was feeding exclusively live, as the collection has grown I'm attempting the f/t transition for the first time in I don't know... 7 years maybe. I don't feed in separate enclosures as much anymore but feeding live a big pro is being able to intervene if there's a bad strike. If you're feeding ft I literally see no reason to feed in a separate enclosure.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by For Goodness Snakes

I would suggest re reading that sentence. "The hope is by spending a huge amount of time gently working with that bird it will soon learn to trust you OR LEAST LEARN NOT TO BE AFRAID OF YOU. Believe me the brain of a Red Tailed Hawk isn't much bigger than that of a ball python's brain. In the future if you're going to quote me I would appreciate it if you would at least complete the sentence.

Twenty years ago when I first started doing reptile educational presentations in the San Francisco Bay Area I was warned by just about every breeder I knew that by having my snakes in front of people the snakes would get stressed out and that stress would be the cause of health issues including the lack of feeding response. I appreciated everyone's concern, but sometimes you just got to make these decisions based on your own logic, common sense and experience rather than the logic, common sense and experience of others, that's when I created the other side of my business called For Goodness Snakes Adventures. Sure I wondered how the snakes would act or react when handled by hundreds of children at a time, but was relieved to see that they handled the crowds of children with no issues at all. Now twenty years later and 50,000 people later my snakes are doing fantastic. Just to put my business into perspective I now do between 200 and 300 reptile programs a year that means that 15,000 children per year touch and handle my ball pythons including some that are on my breeding team. We have never had any issues (no one has ever been bit) and the 200 plus snakes in my collection's health level has never been better. Sometimes I do between 5 and 6 presentations a day. In fact I just got home a few minutes ago from doing a program and in a few minutes I'll be going out to feed the collection and as always I don't expect any issues from those that were with me today.

So when you say (and I'm sure that most people would agree with you ) that by handling your snake 15 minutes a day is and I quote you "Your advise is a recipe for a stressed out, sick snake that won't eat", I just smile and shake my head.

Here is a link to one of my videos that will show you what I do at the end of my reptile presentations and again I do about 300 of them a year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHTt75jgsA

A note to the newbies: It's OK to think outside of the box when it comes to these animals, don't be afraid to try new things to push the envelope.
Remember breeding and selling ball pythons is more of an art than a science, question everything and don't be afraid to try new things.
I'm one of the lucky ones because I get to do this for a living, but no matter how many times I've been told I was wrong or that I was going to fail I leaned on my own experiences, I listened to myself rather than those narrow minded people that were advising me.

Like I've said before I'm here for you guys, let me know if I can help.

Brian Gundy
For Goodness Snakes
408-981-6694

---

This is hands down one of the most intelligent posts I have read on here in a long time. I agree 100% with what Brian is saying. Anyone that has trained animals should understand Brian's approach.

The part that is missing though is not everyone is meant to be an animal trainer. I have seen posts on here that absolutely amaze me. You tell people to regulate their heat source, they argue about it and then they are back with a burn. I am continually amazed at the lack of logic some people can display. Experimenting is great when you know how to interpret results. If you have problems interpreting results you should not experiment. It is because of this that we tend to give "safe" advice. Stuff that we know pretty much works every time. I am guilty of this. I tell people to feed in the enclosure. Truth be told I don't always do it. As a matter of fact when I am trying to convert an animal from live to f/t one of the first things I do is feed live in another container. The animal becomes conditioned to know it is being fed when it goes in there. Pretty soon it is so wired to eat in this situation it will hit a F/T. Once it does it is back to feeding in its tub. No one told me this. It makes sense so I tried it and it works. The problem is it doesn't work every time and you have to know when to switch tactics. This is almost impossible to try to describe online, let alone while you are getting slammed for not doing it the "right" way. I am also guilty of telling people to let their animals chill out. Another do as I say not as I do situation. The nastier or the shyer an animal is the more I handle it. Works for me, but I also know when to stop. Once again impossible for me to describe online.

I believe there are many people on here that experiment but are afraid to come forward with their results because they are going to get slammed. I am too old to care about such things. I listen to people's opinions for what they are. I will continue to experiment. Without experimentation we would still be living in caves having to catch our food. Some people need instruction though. Read the warning label on some products some time. They are there because some idiot did whatever it says not to do.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by For Goodness Snakes

In the future if you're going to quote me I would appreciate it if you would at least complete the sentence.

---

I will never change words you typed in and I will never change the order you typed them in, but I'll pull out what I want, when I want to make the point I want. Don't like it? Don't type it. I don't care that your hope is to calm down the Falcon you took from the wild. I was pointing out the intrinsic entertainment value the process must hold for the bird, not the hoped for final result.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by For Goodness Snakes

A note to the newbies: It's OK to think outside of the box when it comes to these animals, don't be afraid to try new things to push the envelope.

---

Before you started pushing your YouTube channel and giving non standard advice, did you even read this thread from the beginning? Do you understand what a lowest common denominator (LCD) is? Because while your advice may work for you, your out of the box art and science really isn't for everyone, is it? Did you read the first paragraph of this thread where the OP said:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Haileeboop

Okay, I got my baby ball python Monday and done a lot of research on them.

---

Yet, proceeds to ask every basic husbandry question known to Ball Pythondom.... Would you not label this an LCD situation? Would you not want to wait for someone with a little better grasp on the basics of BP husbandry before you toss out the "think outside the box" advice?

Again, I'm glad your Voodoo works for you. I'm glad you have a successful snake farm and such. I'm overjoyed to the point of pooping my britches that you have soooooo many YouTube videos. But, when it comes to slinging out advice, I think you could use a little more discernment in evaluating the experience level of the person asking the question.
:salute:

Thank you to everyone for your helpful advices! Ever since I got my baby ball it seems like she's skinny because her skin is kind of stretchy I think that's how you would say it ;-; I haven't fed her yet because I don't want to frighten her even more and not have her eat for a longer periods of time. I might try sometime this week. What if she refuses to eat again? What do I do? I know that she can't go without food for a long period of time considering she's only a baby :( this has been on my mind. She's been going to her different hides and her tongues been flickering too so I guess those are good signs. Plus I've been seeing nats in her enclosure should I clean her tank? Or would that make her stressed out? Idk where those bugs are coming from but the lid is always closed so there's no way bugs could get in

I've worked with birds of prey my whole life, and I would never compare their behavior to that of a ball python. Compleeeeetely different animals in more ways than just species.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by O'Mathghamhna

I've worked with birds of prey my whole life, and I would never compare their behavior to that of a ball python. Compleeeeetely different animals in more ways than just species.

---

You guys are just not getting it.

I don't care if your talking about ducks or Mountain Lions the best way I have found to get an animal to be more comfortable around you is to smother it with your presence. I learned this technique as a falconer, but it works with just about all animals. HELLO CAN YOU HEAR ME?

As far as I'm concerned this post has been a waste of everyone's time.

Brian Gundy
For Goodness Snakes
408-981-6694

I can hear you, Brian. I just don't agree with your aproach. Particularly when it comes to ball pythons.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slim

I can hear you, Brian. I just don't agree with your aproach. Particularly when it comes to ball pythons.

---

The sad part about it is that this post is not about me and shouldn't be about me, it's about Hailee and her needs as a new ball python owner.

It's just amazing to me how much energy has been wasted in this post and other posts, it's almost embarrassing.

Can't we agree to disagree, isn't there enough room in this community to allow for variation in every aspect of this hobby?

I'm just not getting it guys, I'm just not getting it.

I'm not the enemy!

Brian

Are children allowed to slap/pat hard your snakes regularly? Seems to me that may not feel so good to them. Do you have other handlers w you to help during these presentations in case something goes wrong? Honestly, that situation in that video seemed very out of control and could mean harm to one of your reptiles or a child. Is it common in your presentations to have multiple species out in this manner? I ask as a teacher of children.

I applaud your effort to educate others on reptiles, however, some advice just isnt good for beginnings as mentioned already.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jeanne

Are children allowed to slap/pat hard your snakes regularly? Seems to me that may not feel so good to them. Do you have other handlers w you to help during these presentations in case something goes wrong? Honestly, that situation in that video seemed very out of control and could mean harm to one of your reptiles or a child. Is it common in your presentations to have multiple species out in this manner? I ask as a teacher of children.

I applaud your effort to educate others on reptiles, however, some advice just isnt good for beginnings as mentioned already.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

---

Jeanne, My reptile programs last around an hour, at the beginning of each show I tell the children that dogs are by far my favorite animal and then I go on to say that if you like puppies you're going to like snakes, because snakes and puppies have about the same temperament. The whole program is focused on minimizing the fear that most people have toward snakes. After the educational segment of the program I then go into the audience participation segment, it's then that I bring out a blue tongued skink and have that blue tongued skink kiss the children on the cheek then I ask for an adult volunteer to come up and then I blind fold the adult. They think they are going to be kissed by the blue tongued skink then I bring out my black and white tegu and have the tegu kiss the teacher or principle of the school on the cheek and the audience goes crazy. The finale is when I ask for 4 adults to volunteer to come up from the audience I blind fold them with head bands and then bring out the albino Burm and drape it over the teacher's out stretched arms I then remove their blind folds. After that I place the burm over my shoulders and begin to explain to the kids that I'm going to let the snakes go onto the table. During the program the ball pythons are kept in an acrylic piller just like the ones I use at the reptile expos. Before I let the animals out onto the table I explain to them that these are not toys they are animals and that we need to treat them with respect. I then go onto explain how snakes are head shy and the reason why we call the smaller snakes ball pythons is because if they feel scared or threatened they will roll up into a ball. Then as I'm siting there with the burm over my shoulders I'll say watch what happens to Bingo (that's his name) as soon as I gently grab him by his head. He then pulls his head back and I tell the audience that I've done that to him thousands of times and he still doesn't like it. I then explain to the audience that animals that are scared or feel threatened will react one of two ways they will try to get away just like the burm did or if they can't get away they will do what they can to protect themselves and I somewhat sternly tell them that we do not want these guys to feel like that they have to protect themselves. Through out the program I keep repeating to the kids that as long as snakes are not afraid they are just as gentle as puppies. I then let all of the reptiles go onto the table that I'm working from and I let the kids come up in small groups to touch and hold the animals.

While I'm telling the kids about the Burmese python it is very common for me to sort of pat the snake's body just like I would my two Golden Retrievers, because remember I'm repeating this puppy thing through out my program. In this video things did get a little excited and the kids were patting the burm, probably because they were watching me patting the burm while I was holding him which I do all of the time remember I've been telling them all along that he's just as gentle as a puppy. To tell you the truth I was much more concerned about the children kissing he snake than I was about them patting the snake. Yes I admit that these particular children were just on the edge, but I assure you that none of the animals have ever been injured and no one has ever been bitten by any of my animals, In the last 8 years I've done just over 2500 programs.

Here are a few of my 500 videos on YouTube that show what happens during the reptile programs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3upHKst0PE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfIlbHUjUbk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2lHoucLsqY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UX061kYqT00
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbffhHYRV34
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JUJNEmur6g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea60FOkn2Vw

Thanks for your concern about my snakes, but there is no way I would allow someone to hurt any of my animals. And just as side note I now have over 142 reviews on Yelp and all but three are five star reviews, I've had two four star reviews and one one star review, here is a link to my yelp page.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/for-goodness...arch_key=77632

Yes I do this all by myself.


Brian

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by For Goodness Snakes

As far as I'm concerned this post has been a waste of everyone's time.

---

So you think because people don't agree with you?
I don't care about all the greatness you feel the need to inform people about.
Then again I don't care is you are a small unknown, Brian from BHB or whom ever you could be.... The response from me will always be the same.
You cannot tell a NEW keeper to try things outside the box when we are talking about the care of an animal!
I do things I would not recommend BUT will discuss to share the knowledge and explaining the worst of what could happen......

That being said this thread needs to get back on track!

Haileeboop, start here: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-Hatchling-101
You also need to remember they are not a dog, they only tolerate you. The more you handle, the more stress you are adding. There is no reason and responsible person would ant to add more stress than needed. Some snakes tolerate more than others but it all takes time. You first priority is getting your husbandry fixed and then getting your new snake feeding.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by For Goodness Snakes

The sad part about it is that this post is not about me

---

How many times in this thread have you mentioned your 500 YouTube videos? How many times have you basically posted your resume on this thread? Did you link your Yelp reviews?

Naw Bro, it ain't about you.