Please Help! My ZooMed Terrarium is too cold:(

Hi everyone,


I bought the 20 Gallon ZooMed Snake Starterkit and this ball python 7 days ago (I have never had a pet before).


The terrarium is too cold! Cold side: 76F, Hot side:82.8F (UTH HeatPad RH-4 mounted underneath the right side).


And I think because of that, my bp is make whistling sound when breathing.

Right now, I am considering getting the ZooMed Repti Heat Cave™ and put it on top of my heat pad.
I don't know if it is too small for my bp though, if it is too small then ReptiCare Rock Heater? [The Q&A says no heat rock but the website says it's ok for snake so I am not sure.]
But I can't think of any other idea to bring up the hot side (Besides mounting an additional heat pad on the side.)
What do you guys think about this? Would it be too hot or "dangerous"?

And I don't know what to do with the cold side in order to bring the temp up :(

This is my tank:
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7396/2...c645e0db_c.jpg

And this is my bp and it's getting sick because of the temperature I guess :(
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7498/2...a2e4e8dd_c.jpg

First things first. How (what piece of equipment) and where (take a picture or describe) are you measuring the temperatures you're talking about.

Second - do NOT spend any more money on heating devices until you answer the first question.

The reason this is so important is because I highly doubt it's a case of being too cold and I don't want to see your new guy end up getting burned.

EDIT: If nothing else, this should be your next purchase: http://www.zoomed.com/db/products/En...I7czoxOiIwIjt9. Then we can talk about where to go once we know where we're at. :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

First things first. How (what piece of equipment) and where (take a picture or describe) are you measuring the temperatures you're talking about.

Second - do NOT spend any more money on heating devices until you answer the first question.

The reason this is so important is because I highly doubt it's a case of being too cold and I don't want to see your new guy end up getting burned.

EDIT: If nothing else, this should be your next purchase: http://www.zoomed.com/db/products/En...I7czoxOiIwIjt9. Then we can talk about where to go once we know where we're at. :gj:

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Layout:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7040/2...6bf6af44_b.jpg

1) The prob:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7391/2...f4c765b0_c.jpg

2) digital temperature gauge
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7753/2...206e1b32_c.jpg

3)hot analog
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7286/2...27df05c1_c.jpg

4) Cold analog
https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7593/2...1de9b29f_c.jpg

Your cool side temps look fine to me. Since you are providing a hot spot, mid-70s are as low as I feel comfortable with, and it looks like that's where you're at.

With your warm side analog and probe reading at least 80 where they are placed right now, I'm almost 100% positive that the temperature on the glass right above the heat pad is well above that. See if you can move the probe to under the substrate as close to in contact with the glass directly above the heat pad as you can. It's not the best solution, as your snake will move it around, but it will give you a better idea of the actual warm side hot spot temperature. That's where the infrared thermometer comes in - you can just slide the substrate aside, aim it at the glass, and know your hot spot temp in an instant without having a probe in the tank at all.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Your cool side temps look fine to me. Since you are providing a hot spot, mid-70s are as low as I feel comfortable with, and it looks like that's where you're at.

With your warm side analog and probe reading at least 80 where they are placed right now, I'm almost 100% positive that the temperature on the glass right above the heat pad is well above that. See if you can move the probe to under the substrate as close to in contact with the glass directly above the heat pad as you can. It's not the best solution, as your snake will move it around, but it will give you a better idea of the actual warm side hot spot temperature. That's where the infrared thermometer comes in - you can just slide the substrate aside, aim it at the glass, and know your hot spot temp in an instant without having a probe in the tank at all.

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Thanks, I will check the temp later tmr and update it here :)

What about the occasional wheezing sound tho? Should I be worried and take it to a vet for RI?
Wheezing sound usually happen when I am handling her tho. However, I have heard her sneezed one or twice.

Do you have a thermostat or something to regulate your uth? You should ditch those analog thermometer/hygrometer, they are very inaccurate. Get a acurite 00891, it has a probe for the hot side and you can put the whole unit on the cool side for cool temp and humidity. They are $12 on amazon and some Walmarts carry them. Also when you move your current thermometer probe set it under your substrate on top of glass where the middle of heat mat is. I have a 4 of those yellow thermometers and mine are all off 2-4 degrees hot or cold so I highly suggest one of the acurites I mentioned.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Do you have a thermostat or something to regulate your uth? You should ditch those analog thermometer/hygrometer, they are very inaccurate. Get a acurite 00891, it has a probe for the hot side and you can put the whole unit on the cool side for cool temp and humidity. They are $12 on amazon and some Walmarts carry them. Also when you move your current thermometer probe set it under your substrate on top of glass where the middle of heat mat is. I have a 4 of those yellow thermometers and mine are all off 2-4 degrees hot or cold so I highly suggest one of the acurites I mentioned.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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I don't have a thermostat but it won't get hot enough that needs to be turn off I think. And I am gonna get a Digital Infrared IR Thermometer to measure the temp. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

I don't have a thermostat but it won't get hot enough that needs to be turn off I think. And I am gonna get a Digital Infrared IR Thermometer to measure the temp. :)

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I have not come across one heat mat that doesn't get to hot, I've used many sizes of many brands. You need something such as a thermostat to regulate the uth. Put your thermometer probe flat under the bedding in middle of uth so probe is touching glass. If it is over 95 then it's to hot. 95 is max for under the bedding. I actually have one of those same heat mats you do that I use for my leopard gecko incubator and they get over 100.

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If you look hard enough (not very hard), you'll find plenty of "I didnt think i needed a t-stat, pls help with burn" posts. Don't be one of them, dont risk it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

Thanks, I will check the temp later tmr and update it here :)

What about the occasional wheezing sound tho? Should I be worried and take it to a vet for RI?
Wheezing sound usually happen when I am handling her tho. However, I have heard her sneezed one or twice.

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I have never personally dealt with an RI, and would like to hear input from someone who has, but that sounds like it could be something significant. I would also note that sometimes they can make strange noises. Especially during the shed cycle, or soon after due to stuck shed - presumably on the face/nostrils. This can create a strange sound when they breathe.

Also, are you 100% sure the python isn't hissing at you? Sounds like a deliberate exhale. Not like Sssssss.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

If you look hard enough (not very hard), you'll find plenty of "I didnt think i needed a t-stat, pls help with burn" posts. Don't be one of them, dont risk it.

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Also yes, you definitely want a way to directly regulate your heat source, but a simple rheostat would surely do just fine. I only use Herpstat thermostats personally, but rheostats can work great for tanks/UTHs, and are so much more affordable. You can also run 2 elements with this, IF THEY ARE EXACTLY THE SAME.


Great buy: http://www.reptilebasics.com/thermos...omed-rheostat/

Not to sound mean here, but I will add this... I have a digital thermometer like the one you have posted, the yellow one. Mine has read inaccurate by as much as 15 degrees at times. When I was setting up my new tank, I was over obsessive about getting things right. I had two accurites, that one, and a temp gun. The two accurites and temp gun were all within 2 degrees of each other. The yellow one was 15 degrees off.

Just be cautious.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by STjepkes

Also yes, you definitely want a way to directly regulate your heat source, but a simple rheostat would surely do just fine. I only use Herpstat thermostats personally, but rheostats can work great for tanks/UTHs, and are so much more affordable. You can also run 2 elements with this, IF THEY ARE EXACTLY THE SAME.


Great buy: http://www.reptilebasics.com/thermos...omed-rheostat/

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I am getting it from Big Al's :)

https://www.bigalspets.ca/repti-temp-rheostat.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy

Not to sound mean here, but I will add this... I have a digital thermometer like the one you have posted, the yellow one. Mine has read inaccurate by as much as 15 degrees at times. When I was setting up my new tank, I was over obsessive about getting things right. I had two accurites, that one, and a temp gun. The two accurites and temp gun were all within 2 degrees of each other. The yellow one was 15 degrees off.

Just be cautious.

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Thx I got this today lol

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7307/2...b7082733_c.jpg

Just make sure under the substrate on top of glass over the heat mat is no hotter than 95. The reason you want to check under substrate is bc snakes will burrow. Also make sure you check all over the heat mat bc temp can be higher in other spots, the hottest spot should not be above 95. If it is over 95 you will need to unplug it until you get the thermostat and use a 40-60w red bulb until you get it or keep the room around 83-85. If you use a red bulb bc the uth is to hot then you will want to check temp on top of substrate right where the middle of the bulb hits and raise the lamp higher off cage if its hotter than 92. The rheostat you ordered works like a dimmer so it doesn't automatically adjust which means if your room temp changes you will have to raise or lower the rheostat yourself so make sure you check your temps a few times a day.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Your cool side temps look fine to me. Since you are providing a hot spot, mid-70s are as low as I feel comfortable with, and it looks like that's where you're at.

With your warm side analog and probe reading at least 80 where they are placed right now, I'm almost 100% positive that the temperature on the glass right above the heat pad is well above that. See if you can move the probe to under the substrate as close to in contact with the glass directly above the heat pad as you can. It's not the best solution, as your snake will move it around, but it will give you a better idea of the actual warm side hot spot temperature. That's where the infrared thermometer comes in - you can just slide the substrate aside, aim it at the glass, and know your hot spot temp in an instant without having a probe in the tank at all.

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I got her two identical hides now :)
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7360/2...7f669aa3_b.jpg

When beam directly on snake body:
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7457/2...e0c71f1d_c.jpg

OR

https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7411/2...46d00098_c.jpg

When beam directly on bedding:

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7310/2...c1e6d742_c.jpg


However, for the cold side I'm only getting 70F :(

https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7751/2...814f1177_c.jpg

Once again, aim it at THE GLASS UNDER THE SUBSTRATE DIRECTLY ABOVE THE HEAT MAT.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Once again, aim it at THE GLASS UNDER THE SUBSTRATE DIRECTLY ABOVE THE HEAT MAT.

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137F....
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7012/2...f5a49c47_b.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mercedesbenz

137f....
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7012/2...f5a49c47_b.jpg

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unplug the heat pad right now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

unplug the heat pad right now.

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It's unplugged....

Leave it unplugged until you have a way to control it with a thermostat.

Your hot spot is basically 50 degrees higher than it should be and over 40 degrees higher than is safe for your BP. That is what everyone has been warning you of this entire thread and what I suspected from the beginning.

In the mean time, you will need to find a way to raise temps in the enclosure in general. You can use those heat bulbs to do that - just make sure you're still using your temp gun to check all over the tank several times a day and raise or lower the bulbs as appropriate.

When you get your thermostat (which is actually a rheostat), you may plug your heat mat into it, and the it into the wall and adjust it until you get the glass temperature back to safe - 90 degrees or so. Since it is a rheostat, you will need to keep checking temps daily and make adjustments as necessary.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Just make sure under the substrate on top of glass over the heat mat is no hotter than 95. The reason you want to check under substrate is bc snakes will burrow. Also make sure you check all over the heat mat bc temp can be higher in other spots, the hottest spot should not be above 95. If it is over 95 you will need to unplug it until you get the thermostat and use a 40-60w red bulb until you get it or keep the room around 83-85. If you use a red bulb bc the uth is to hot then you will want to check temp on top of substrate right where the middle of the bulb hits and raise the lamp higher off cage if its hotter than 92. The rheostat you ordered works like a dimmer so it doesn't automatically adjust which means if your room temp changes you will have to raise or lower the rheostat yourself so make sure you check your temps a few times a day.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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Is there one that has a prob so I can position on top of the heat pad and automatically regulate the heat?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Your hot spot is basically 50 degrees higher than it should be and over 40 degrees higher than is safe for your BP. That is what everyone has been warning you of this entire thread and what I suspected from the beginning.

In the mean time, you will need to find a way to raise temps in the enclosure in general. You can use those heat bulbs to do that - just make sure you're still using your temp gun to check all over the tank several times a day and raise or lower the bulbs as appropriate.

When you get your thermostat (which is actually a rheostat), you may plug your heat mat into it, and the it into the wall and adjust it until you get the glass temperature back to safe - 90 degrees or so. Since it is a rheostat, you will need to keep checking temps daily and make adjustments as necessary.

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I see. Thank you very much :)

Do you have any good thermostat you can recommend? I can just cancel the rheostat order.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

Is there one that has a prob so I can position on top of the heat pad and automatically regulate the heat?

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A Hydrofarm (or JumpStart) or Herpstat thermostat will do what you need it to here. You'd put the probe for either of these sandwiched between the heat pad and the glass (on the outside of the enclosure) and dial in your temps from there. Once that's done, the thermostat will keep itself there and adjust itself as needed with the room temp fluctuations.

EDIT: The Herpstat is what I recommend. The Hydrofarm is a budget option.

I found these two:

Zoo Med ReptiTemp 500R Remote Sensor Thermostat

Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed germination, Reptiles and Brewing

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

A Hydrofarm (or JumpStart) or Herpstat thermostat will do what you need it to here. You'd put the probe for either of these sandwiched between the heat pad and the glass (on the outside of the enclosure) and dial in your temps from there. Once that's done, the thermostat will keep itself there and adjust itself as needed with the room temp fluctuations.

EDIT: The Herpstat is what I recommend. The Hydrofarm is a budget option.

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Is this the Herpstat?

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7698/2...f0206b18_b.jpg

All thermostats use a probe, you put the probe between the heating pad and the glass. If you have one of the tack on zoomed pads, if you try to take it off now, you'll probably have to just throw it away. Also, your substrate on the hot end is far too thick, I find that having a very slight layer (half inch thick tops) of substrate works because you dont have to worry about a major difference between the temp of the glass and the temp of the top of the substrate.

Other than that, your issue is that you dont seem to have a lamp to heat up your ambient, also, ive seen no mention of your humidity or a picture of a meter for it, but i can see that your temps are low, your tank is glass and you have a completely open lid. I can probably guess that your humidity is in the 40% range, which is below the comfort zone. This combination is the reason your snake makes noises, its on the brim of getting a respiratory infection, especially since now its only source of heat has been turned off since it was its immediate source of danger.

If you have a space heater, i would point it at the tank (only close enough to get the inside to 80. Then, take a damp towel and cover up the screen lid. If you dont have a space heater, check the temps of one of your closets, if its 80 in the closet (probably is if the doors are closed) put the tank in there until you get a heat lamp, a dimmer and a thermostat.

If im mistaken and you -DO- have a lamp, if you cover up 80% of that lid with a damp towel and have the lamp taking up the remaining 20%, you should see a rise in your temp and humidity.

Also, no heat caves.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

Is this the Herpstat?

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7698/2...f0206b18_b.jpg

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That's the Hydrofarm/Jump Start.

These are Herpstats: http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index....=index&cPath=1. Herpstat 1 is what you would need.

Physics shows that both hot air rises and that temps equalize by warm air traveling to cooler air (and cool air traveling to hot air), having a completely open lid will make it nearly impossible to keep heat inside of the tank. It needs its exit routes restricted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

All thermostats use a probe, you put the probe between the heating pad and the glass. If you have one of the tack on zoomed pads, if you try to take it off now, you'll probably have to just throw it away. Also, your substrate on the hot end is far too thick, I find that having a very slight layer (half inch thick tops) of substrate works because you dont have to worry about a major difference between the temp of the glass and the temp of the top of the substrate.

Other than that, your issue is that you dont seem to have a lamp to heat up your ambient, also, ive seen no mention of your humidity or a picture of a meter for it, but i can see that your temps are low, your tank is glass and you have a completely open lid. I can probably guess that your humidity is in the 40% range, which is below the comfort zone. This combination is the reason your snake makes noises, its on the brim of getting a respiratory infection, especially since now its only source of heat has been turned off since it was its immediate source of danger.

If you have a space heater, i would point it at the tank (only close enough to get the inside to 80. Then, take a damp towel and cover up the screen lid. If you dont have a space heater, check the temps of one of your closets, if its 80 in the closet (probably is if the doors are closed) put the tank in there until you get a heat lamp, a dimmer and a thermostat.

If im mistaken and you -DO- have a lamp, if you cover up 80% of that lid with a damp towel and have the lamp taking up the remaining 20%, you should see a rise in your temp and humidity.

Also, no heat caves.

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I am putting on a 40W infrared heat bulb now.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7542/2...1e2005b1_b.jpg

For the humidity, I am spraying the tank with water
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7255/2...013029c7_b.jpg

I am gonna google how to maintain humidity now. 'Cause the store where I bought the snake from just told me to spray it with water and it will be fine :(

Get a Herpstat 1 if you can afford it. If you can't afford that then look at the inkbird itc-308 which is an on/off style but can be set to only drop 1 degree before it starts heating again. Herpstat 1 is proportional and will stay one consistent temp and really reliable and safe but the ink bird would work. Another good proportional thermostat is the ve-200 from reptile basics. The jump start would work also but to see how many degrees it drops before it starts heating again, the less the better. If you buy any of these thermostats you will want to put the thermostat probe sandwiched between the uth and bottom of glass and set thermostat until you get a temp on top of glass of no higher than 95.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Pet stores dont really have anyone that specializes in snakes. Also, the kit makes it seem like it has everything you need to get a snake. It doesnt have anything for humidity or regulation for the included heat pad (nor does it tell you that you need it).

Take 2 towels, spray them lightly with that water bottle and put them to the left and to the right of the lamp (make sure they dont touch the lamp just in case). Both your temps and humidity should go up, just make sure you monitor it because your lamp needs regulation too (a dimmer), but a 40w red bulb isnt nearly as dangerous as a unregulated heat pad. If the heat gets too high in the tank, slowly slide back the towels to open more screen space to let the extra heat leave.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

Pet stores dont really have anyone that specializes in snakes. Also, the kit makes it seem like it has everything you need to get a snake. It doesnt have anything for humidity or regulation for the included heat pad (nor does it tell you that you need it).

Take 2 towels, spray them lightly with that water bottle and put them to the left and to the right of the lamp (make sure they dont touch the lamp just in case). Both your temps and humidity should go up, just make sure you monitor it because your lamp needs regulation too (a dimmer), but a 40w red bulb isnt nearly as dangerous as a unregulated heat pad. If the heat gets too high in the tank, slowly slide back the towels to open more screen space to let the extra heat leave.

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Done
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7302/2...603f4acb_b.jpg

Are there reptile humidifiers that automatically regulate the humidity? Instead of me having to keep spraying the towels and put them back on whenever they are dry.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Get a Herpstat 1 if you can afford it. If you can't afford that then look at the inkbird itc-308 which is an on/off style but can be set to only drop 1 degree before it starts heating again. Herpstat 1 is proportional and will stay one consistent temp and really reliable and safe but the ink bird would work. Another good proportional thermostat is the ve-200 from reptile basics. The jump start would work also but to see how many degrees it drops before it starts heating again, the less the better. If you buy any of these thermostats you will want to put the thermostat probe sandwiched between the uth and bottom of glass and set thermostat until you get a temp on top of glass of no higher than 95.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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The Herpstat 1 + tax and shipping would be around CAD200 which is too expensive for me. So I am just getting the Jump Start MTPRTC, which operates within 2 degrees either way. I think it's good enough for me for now lol

Good, report back in an hour with your new ambient temps.

Short answer.. not really.

Long answer... not really, but there are ways you can rig it. You can create a humidifier from some videos on youtube and adjust the towels until you hit an equilibrium where the humidity stays consistent.

Another answer (albiet very expensive) is using a high end herpstat that has humidity probing capaibilities that will turn on a fogger or humidifier for you once your humidity gets below a certain point.

Honestly with your light in the center directly over your water and the rest of the screen covered up, you should at -least- be at 50, which is safe. Problem will be once it goes into shed and you need it more towards 65-70. You'll probably sphagnum moss to help you get that high.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

Another answer (albiet very expensive) is using a high end herpstat that has humidity probing capaibilities that will turn on a fogger or humidifier for you once your humidity gets below a certain point.

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Sounds expensive too LOL

Yes there are reptile humidifiers . There called foggers or misters although alot of people do not recommend using them because they could "possibly" give your bp and ri. You can rig a fogger so it keeps misting the towels over the viv keeping get them wet and keeping your humidity up.
There are loads of different ways of keeping humidity up like covering the top, spraying regularly, some people use waterfeatures in there vivs to add to humidity
I've always used sphagnum Moss. IMO it's the best thing for humidity. I also have 2 water bowls one on hot side and one on cold side.

@MercedesBenz I just want to say, good on you for getting on top of things with all the new info and getting the right equipment when it's suggested! Not everyone who comes around for help/advice is willing to do that, for whatever weird reason...

You don't really need to regulate humidity to an exact compared to heat pads, at least for ball pythons, as long as it is kept around or above 60%, assuming there is good air flow. Another option to up the humidity is to put a large flat plate or container with large surface area inside the tank, soak a towel and lay it inside, preferably on top of the heated side. It will last longer than putting the towels on top of the tank.... It just doesn't look very nice LOL. Either way would work.

If your humidity is low, during shed times/when the snake is in blue, you can stick damp sphagnum moss inside of the hides, pushed to the sides. That will help during shedding.

This is the cheaper option

[video removed]

Lol excuse his language (he's hilarious to listen to). Basically the gist of it, he uses a humidifer and attaches a hose to the nozzle and pipes the fog into the tank. He has a splitter because he has 3 tanks. If you do this, you can turn it down to a low power and it should easily keep your tank at a good humidity for a couple of days. Take some time to experiment with the humidity dial and the screen coverage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

It will last longer than putting the towels on top of the tank.... It just doesn't look very nice LOL. Either way would work.

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If his snake is on the verge of an infection (if it doesnt already have one), i think we worry about making it look pretty later.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

This is the cheaper option

[video removed]

Lol excuse his language (he's hilarious to listen to). Basically the gist of it, he uses a humidifer and attaches a hose to the nozzle and pipes the fog into the tank. He has a splitter because he has 3 tanks. If you do this, you can turn it down to a low power and it should easily keep your tank at a good humidity for a couple of days. Take some time to experiment with the humidity dial and the screen coverage.

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This guy is funny hahaha

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

If his snake is on the verge of an infection (if it doesnt already have one), i think we worry about making it look pretty later.

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I have already made an appointment for a body check tmr :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by redshepherd

Another option to up the humidity is to put a large flat plate or container with large surface area inside the tank, soak a towel and lay it inside, preferably on top of the heated side. It will last longer than putting the towels on top of the tank.

If your humidity is low, during shed times/when the snake is in blue, you can stick damp sphagnum moss inside of the hides, pushed to the sides. That will help during shedding.

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I'll get a humidity gauge and do this if it's too low :snake:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Once again, aim it at THE GLASS UNDER THE SUBSTRATE DIRECTLY ABOVE THE HEAT MAT.

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I kinda don't understand that part where I need to directly measure the heat on top of the heat pad tho. 'Cause the snake is laying on top of the bedding and if the bedding is around 90F, isn't it ok? And it does't seem like my snake is trying to dig herself to the bare glass.

Sorry if it is a stupid question lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

I kinda don't understand that part where I need to directly measure the heat on top of the heat pad tho. 'Cause the snake is laying on top of the bedding and if the bedding is around 90F, isn't it ok? And it does't seem like my snake is trying to dig herself to the bare glass.

Sorry if it is a stupid question lol.

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There are no stupid questions. :) Your snake will inevitably move the bedding and be laying on the glass at some point (even if it's not doing it right now). Some make a habit of that - some only now and again. Regardless, you must make sure that when they do, it's still safe for them there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MercedesBenz

I kinda don't understand that part where I need to directly measure the heat on top of the heat pad tho. 'Cause the snake is laying on top of the bedding and if the bedding is around 90F, isn't it ok? And it does't seem like my snake is trying to dig herself to the bare glass.

Sorry if it is a stupid question lol.

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The reason is because ball pythons commonly dig down... Even if she is not right now, once it happens, the snake is burned if the temps against the glass are too high.

The snakes burrow, and sooner or later will be touching the glass, and at the temps the glass was reaching, you would have a very badly burned snake.

If the substrate on the hot side is very thin, the temp of the glass and the temp of the top of the substrate wont differ very much.

What if I put two pieces of "thick" cardboard on top of the glass and then cover it with bedding? Even if she digs down, there is no way she can directly touch the glass?

the cardboard would suck up all the heat, UTHs work almost 100% on direct contact.