PVC Husbandry (Animal Plastics, Boaphile, Vision Cages)

Hey guys! It's been awhile since I've posted on here. I've been thinking about upgrading Bazzy (BP) from his Sterlite bin enclosure to a professionally made PVC enclosure. I am interested in several brands at the moment (listed in the title) and have poked around here. It seems like the consensus falls in favor of Animal Plastics in terms of product quality and customer service. The more I read, I am leaning more and more towards AP as well.

I found this review here particularly helpful: http://www.reptileinsider.com/showth...n-Use-and-Not)

That being said, I have a few considerations I wanted to ask you all about:

1. If I go with the AP enclosure, I'm thinking about installing a radiant heat panel to help maintain ambient temps especially in the winter. However, I am not a handy person. How easy is it to do this?

2. I'm hoping to get a red-tailed boa one of these days. The stackability of the AP and Vision enclosures make this appealing. Considering my current snake (3 yr old, about 1kg), what is the most appropriate size for him? I'm thinking T8 for my BP and T11 if I get the boa.

3. Do you all have a preference for sliding/swing doors? I prefer glass to acrylic.

4. In the review linked above, it says the AP tanks can be equipped with flex-watt; however, it is fixed in place by crimping and using plastic clips. According to the article, it mentions that the use of plastic clips be a little more dangerous. This makes sense, but I've never heard of this happening. What is the best way to remediate this (other than to do it myself...not very handy; not sure I'd trust myself to do it right)?

I look forward to hearing your opinions! Thank you :)

Attached some pictures of my Baz, just for fun and since it's been awhile :) https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...25&oe=58033B24
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2b&oe=57CA4587

I own 3 visions which are v400, v221, and v211. I also own a AP T10.

IMHO the vision cages look more professional, I love the looks of them and the one piece design and would buy all visions if it wasn't for the price. I bought the v211 and v221 used for real cheap and bought the v400 new for around 400 shipped. I could of bought 2 AP T8s for that price. I bought the T10 new in box from someone for a great price. I would of bought the T8 bc I don't need the extra 3 inches of height but I just happen to come across the T10. The T10 has swing doors which I'm not a fan of, I just don't like the way they look and really like the looks and operation of sliding doors. You can use rhps with any of these cages, I do.

Rhps are easy to install, only takes 2 screws. You shouldn't need a uth of flexwatt when using a rhp, the rhp will heat the whole cage. If you buy a 48 inch cage you would want around a 22-24x12 rhp and I set my thermostat to 90 and put it on hot side and get a 90 hot side 80-82 cool side. For any cage you would want a rhp that is about half the length x half the width. You can get rhps from reptile basics or pro products. If you explain what cage, species, room temp to pro products that will tell you exactly what rhp to buy. IMO a rhp is the best way to heat a cage.

Your snake should do good in a AP T8 or v400 with a 80w rhp from reptile basics depending on your room temp. Like I said above you can contact pro products and give some information and they will tell you what to buy, pro products is a little more expensive but make a really good rhp.

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If I may add, you should buy 2 large reptile basics hides for your snake when you get a new cage, if you don't have any yet. They are not very thick so the heat from the rhp penetrates good giving your snake the correct temp inside the hide. A thicker hide will have problems getting heat in. Plus they are very easy to clean and provide a dark secure hiding place. I use them for all my bps. I say large size bc my ivory is 1072g and fits in a large quite well so your 1000g snake should have no problem fitting.

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Hey guys! It's been awhile since I've posted on here. I've been thinking about upgrading Bazzy (BP) from his Sterlite bin enclosure to a professionally made PVC enclosure. I am interested in several brands at the moment (listed in the title) and have poked around here. It seems like the consensus falls in favor of Animal Plastics in terms of product quality and customer service. The more I read, I am leaning more and more towards AP as well.

I found this review here particularly helpful: http://www.reptileinsider.com/showth...n-Use-and-Not)

That being said, I have a few considerations I wanted to ask you all about:

1. If I go with the AP enclosure, I'm thinking about installing a radiant heat panel to help maintain ambient temps especially in the winter. However, I am not a handy person. How easy is it to do this? As said, it's super easy. You can pre-drill the holes if you want, it makes it a little easier, but isn't necessary. If you know you're going to use an RHP, get it before you put the enclosure together. It's much simpler that way.

2. I'm hoping to get a red-tailed boa one of these days. The stackability of the AP and Vision enclosures make this appealing. Considering my current snake (3 yr old, about 1kg), what is the most appropriate size for him? I'm thinking T8 for my BP and T11 if I get the boa.

3. Do you all have a preference for sliding/swing doors? I prefer glass to acrylic. I got the glass and really like it. I have heard that over time, the acrylic will scratch and possibly warp. Also, you have hinges that become points of failure. The sliding glass doors are simple, and should never wear out.

4. In the review linked above, it says the AP tanks can be equipped with flex-watt; however, it is fixed in place by crimping and using plastic clips. According to the article, it mentions that the use of plastic clips be a little more dangerous. This makes sense, but I've never heard of this happening. What is the best way to remediate this (other than to do it myself...not very handy; not sure I'd trust myself to do it right)? I decided to use RHP's and belly heat with my T8 as the room can get chilly in the winter months. I instead went with 12" heat tape from Reptile Basics. I got a 2' long piece so it goes from the front to back of the T8. I had RB wire it for me as well, and it was cheaper than the flexwatt from Animal Plastics. I was ordering hides and water bowls from Reptile Basics so that's what I got... I'm glad I did. It's been great. I will say that my RHP provides about 100% of the heat in my enclosure. The heat tape doesn't do much, but should the RHP ever fail, I guess it's there as a backup. :)

I look forward to hearing your opinions! Thank you :)

Attached some pictures of my Baz, just for fun and since it's been awhile :) https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...25&oe=58033B24
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2b&oe=57CA4587

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I can't see the picture of your snake, as photo sites are blocked for me at work... :( But I'm guessing it's an adult, so you won't be needed the divider in your T8. I would go with an 80w RHP from Reptile Basics and just install it a little left or right of center, depending on what side you want to be your hot side. That should be plenty as long as your room doesn't drop below 68 degrees or so.

Wow! Thanks for all the responses:). I have a secondary question. I currently use the Hydrofarm tstat, but I always hear horrible stories of tstat malfunctions and the horrible things that could mean for my snake and for safety in general. I know this one got decent reviews, but I'm always paranoid. Should I stick with this one or start looking into a new one?

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...5f&oe=57CA5098

I have no experience with the Hydrofarm products... but I'll tell you that I started with a cheapo thermostat and then upgraded to a Herpstat 2. Difference was night and day and I haven't worried about it one day. I'm definitely a fan of the Herpstat product.

I personally would buy a new one if your going to upgrade to a nice PVC and rhp setup, actually I would buy one anyways.

I agree with little tree guy, Herpstats are packed with features the competition doesn't have. They also hold a pretty steady temp instead of shutting on and off which will make your heating device last longer. For one snake get a Herpstat 1 or for 2 get the Herpstat 2. Spyder robotics does make a herpstat 1 basic and Herpstat intro models that are a little cheaper but they don't have the safety relay which IMO is a must for keeping a snake safe. They do make the Herpstat intro + that's a little cheaper that does have the safety relay but doesn't have the features of the others but the casing style is more for being built into a rack or something and only use 2 prong heating devices but would work for a cage. The other models besides the intros are designed to just set right on top of the cage or stand and actually are visually appealing. Vivarium Electronics by reptile basics makes a good thermostat with a saftey relay but you wouldn't want anything less then the ve-200 but it would be worth the little bit extra for the Herpstat 1. I own 2 ve-200, 1 ve-200d, 1 ve-300 and 1 Herpstat 6 and 1 Herpstat Pro (older version of 4) and I love them all and would buy any of them again but for feature per dollar you can't beat the Herpstat and it's not much more then a ve-200.

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I much prefer the sliding doors. The swing doors offer much more opportunity for the snake to come bursting out when opened at feeding time. I have nearly 2 dozen AP cages with acrylic sliding doors. And I've had a lot them for a long time. Scratching and warping are not a problem at all. I've got T3 stacked 6 high without warping.

AP makes some nice stuff. RHPs are easy to install. As for sliding or dropdown, that's all on you. My personal enclosures are dropdown, but I've done both. Curious as to why glass over acrylic though. I've had no issues with my acrylic doors. I also second the Herpstat 2. Outstanding unit.

Dave

Thanks again for the replies. I'm looking at the herpstats and I think they may definitely be worth the money with the safety features and the dimmer style of maintaining temps. Thanks for the recommendation!

Hydrofarm is good for what it's worth, but these definitely seem appealing

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Originally Posted by AKA Dave

AP makes some nice stuff. RHPs are easy to install. As for sliding or dropdown, that's all on you. My personal enclosures are dropdown, but I've done both. Curious as to why glass over acrylic though. I've had no issues with my acrylic doors. I also second the Herpstat 2. Outstanding unit.

Dave

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Thanks for your response! I heard acrylic can warp or scratch over time, but I've never used it before so I couldn't say. Also, glass may evidently be easier marginally easier to disinfect, but overall, I just like the feel/look of glass.

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Thanks for your response! I heard acrylic can warp or scratch over time, but I've never used it before so I couldn't say. Also, glass may evidently be easier marginally easier to disinfect, but overall, I just like the feel/look of glass.

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I also like glass over acrylic. My T10 with swing doors are acrylic and I just think acrylic feels flimsy even though Ik it's strong. Like I said before sliding glass doors are definitely more appealing to me. Being how light the acrylic is it makes me think a snake could slide up on it and it could pop out of the track though this is probably not likely to happen especially with a lock. Glass is just my personal preference.

You won't be sorry with a Herpstat, definitely worth every penny! Other thermostats and dimmers can fail in the on position and can cook your snakes, I've had it happen with one of my leopard geckos but luckily I was home and caught it before temp raised to high. A Herpstat could do it as any electronic device can malfunction but it's highly unlikely, especially the ones with the safety shut off relays.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

If I may add, you should buy 2 large reptile basics hides for your snake when you get a new cage, if you don't have any yet. They are not very thick so the heat from the rhp penetrates good giving your snake the correct temp inside the hide. A thicker hide will have problems getting heat in. Plus they are very easy to clean and provide a dark secure hiding place. I use them for all my bps. I say large size bc my ivory is 1072g and fits in a large quite well so your 1000g snake should have no problem fitting.

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Your girl must be big, my 1380 gram ball fits in a medium-sized RBI hide with lots of room left over. My 6.5' BCI fits in a large-sized RBI hide with lots of room as well. I don't think either of them would fit in the next size down, though.

As far as jylesa's questions, I have two AP T12's with 80 watt heat panels. I just got some short screws and screwed the RHP onto the ceiling by hand, I didn't need the use of an electric drill/screw gun to put either cage together. I had so many tell me it was a pain to put them together by hand but it was a breeze! You have to worry about breaking/cracking the plastic with an electric screw gun if it's on too high a setting, too. Make sure to do this before setting the top in place, as it's a real pain to do it after it's all put together.

I personally think the T12 is best for adult BPs and subadult boas, but that's just because I personally prefer 2' of height over 18", a T11 should be fine. Unless the boa you get stays 6' or under, you will eventually need to upgrade to a T20 or T25.

I prefer sliding glass doors. I had plexiglass doors in my bp's original cage for 5 years and it ended up severely discolored, warped, and scratched up by the time we moved. That may have been because of the material, though, idk how the acrylic doors AP offers compares.

I plan on getting a Herpstat 6 by fall, that will control the heat to the majority of my collection and I can keep the rest as back ups. Herpstats are great! I prefer my Herpstat 2 over my VE-100's and Hydrofarms.

I actually just ordered 2 AP T10 cages with shelves and locks last week. One for my sunglow boa and one for my pied BP. I ordered sliding glass doors. I do have a ProLine cage which has a drop down acrylic door but they scratch pretty easy. Installing a RHP is easy. I haven't used RBI ones but they just use 2 screws I'm told. I use Pro Product ones and for those, you just lay the top of the cage on the floor with something under it so you don't drill into the floor. Then lay the rhp where you want it, mark the holes with something with a sharp tip or a marker so you can see it. Then drill the 2 holes. Then you put the bolts through and bolt it down. Then hacksaw or dremel the extra bolt length off and you're done. Its pretty easy. I will probably be going with RBI ones on the 2 AP cages since I want to stack them and Ali told me the line up pins are only about 1/2" or so so i'm not sure if the nuts height on Pro Product rhps will allow the guide pins to work if I used furniture pucks between the 2 cages.

Also go with Herpstats. I use 2 of them atm and love them. Dion at Spyder Robotics said you can send in your old Herpstats for firmware updates which is great since my first Herpstat is an older model I've had forever and doesn't have the basking feature like my 2 does. I have Hydrofarms too which work fine in a pinch and I keep mine in the "reptile drawer" for backups along with all kinds of domes, uvb fixtures, cables, cords and all kind of other junk lol.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

I actually just ordered 2 AP T10 cages with shelves and locks last week. One for my sunglow boa and one for my pied BP. I ordered sliding glass doors. I do have a ProLine cage which has a drop down acrylic door but they scratch pretty easy. Installing a RHP is easy. I haven't used RBI ones but they just use 2 screws I'm told. I use Pro Product ones and for those, you just lay the top of the cage on the floor with something under it so you don't drill into the floor. Then lay the rhp where you want it, mark the holes with something with a sharp tip or a marker so you can see it. Then drill the 2 holes. Then you put the bolts through and bolt it down. Then hacksaw or dremel the extra bolt length off and you're done. Its pretty easy. I will probably be going with RBI ones on the 2 AP cages since I want to stack them and Ali told me the line up pins are only about 1/2" or so so i'm not sure if the nuts height on Pro Product rhps will allow the guide pins to work if I used furniture pucks between the 2 cages.

Also go with Herpstats. I use 2 of them atm and love them. Dion at Spyder Robotics said you can send in your old Herpstats for firmware updates which is great since my first Herpstat is an older model I've had forever and doesn't have the basking feature like my 2 does. I have Hydrofarms too which work fine in a pinch and I keep mine in the "reptile drawer" for backups along with all kinds of domes, uvb fixtures, cables, cords and all kind of other junk lol.

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Are you going to use the T10 with a rhp? Mine was bought from somone new in box so it came with the basking shelf even though I didn't want it I had no choice but when I set it up with my pro products rhp the basking shelf was 105 under the rhp so I decided to remove it. Just thought I would let you know with an rhp the basking shelf gets to hot.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Are you going to use the T10 with a rhp? Mine was bought from somone new in box so it came with the basking shelf even though I didn't want it I had no choice but when I set it up with my pro products rhp the basking shelf was 105 under the rhp so I decided to remove it. Just thought I would let you know with an rhp the basking shelf gets to hot.

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Not if it's far enough away. My T12's are 2' tall and the surface of my basking shelf only gets 90-95F

You can also set the temps lower.


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Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa

Not if it's far enough away. My T12's are 2' tall and the surface of my basking shelf only gets 90-95F

You can also set the temps lower.


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T12s are higher then a T10 so the shelf would be closer to the rhp with a T10. Yes setting temp so the shelf is 90 would work but then the ground would be 80 and unless you put the hot hide on the shelf the ground under the rhp would not be the correct temp. Also bps are not generally climbers so a hot spot and hide on the ground would be best.

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Well whoever mounted the RHP did it wrong. I don't plan to mount it above the shelf. I'm going to use the 80 watt ones which are 22x12. The distance from the edge of the shelf to the front of the cage is 16". If you mount if lengthwise, you will have about a 3" gap between the shelf and the RHP. In your case where it was mounted above the shelf, just set your t-stat probe up there and set it according to that.

My BP loves to climb. She might be a weirdo though although another guy I talked to said his BPs like to climb as well. Right now in her temp cage, I got a pvc climbing tree I made her and she spends a lot of time on it. I originally made it for my boas but they actually didn't care for it. They seem to prefer a shelf. They love to climb up and stretch out on a shelf above my bed when I let them out. They will sit there for hours with their head hanging off staring down lol. The BP is impartial about the shelf but loves to climb the pvc "tree" so i'll see how the shelf works for her. If she hates it, i'll just swap cages and put Rosey in the other AP and put Dottie in the Proline.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

T12s are higher then a T10 so the shelf would be closer to the rhp with a T10. Yes setting temp so the shelf is 90 would work but then the ground would be 80 and unless you put the hot hide on the shelf the ground under the rhp would not be the correct temp. Also bps are not generally climbers so a hot spot and hide on the ground would be best.

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Yes that was my point.

And that's what I do. I only heat the top half of the cage, so the upper right is 90F, bottom right and upper left is 85, and bottom left is 80F. I have the probe directly under the basking shelf, I just have to set the temps lower.


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Thanks for your responses guys! It's helping me out a ton with the decision making process. :) I'll poke around and ask if I have any questions on the setup. Thanks again :)

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Thanks for your responses guys! It's helping me out a ton with the decision making process. :) I'll poke around and ask if I have any questions on the setup. Thanks again :)

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I would also consider Constrictors Northwest as well, his Pro-Line. May not be a factor for you, but I move at times, and the idea of having a single welded container does not appeal to me as I believe movers will break it. Constrictors' is a knockdown setup, so gives me piece of mind. I'd also go with glass doors. I use acrylic for other exotics, and while light weight, it does scratch. There are kits you can get to buff out scratches if needed, unsure how well that works though.

Not trying to hyjack this thread, I've also been saving up for a AP cage. But my questions may be helpful to future viewers of this thread.

1. I have heard that smaller snakes can wedge their heads between the glass on the sliding doors and get stuck, has anyone heard of this?

2. I know that most people prefer UTH / RHP / heat tape, but I'm old fashioned and love my CHE's and heat bulbs. The AP cages can be customized with 8 inch screen holes presumably for heat lamps, does anyone have these? I want to know if the CHE can sit (in it's dome-hood of course) directly on the screen to like it does on my aquarium. (Basically is it the same kind of wire screen and do the 8 inch holes allow enough room between the heat source and the plastic that no melting/fire will occur - if that is even possible with PVC)

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Originally Posted by Crowfingers

Not trying to hyjack this thread, I've also been saving up for a AP cage. But my questions may be helpful to future viewers of this thread.

1. I have heard that smaller snakes can wedge their heads between the glass on the sliding doors and get stuck, has anyone heard of this?

2. I know that most people prefer UTH / RHP / heat tape, but I'm old fashioned and love my CHE's and heat bulbs. The AP cages can be customized with 8 inch screen holes presumably for heat lamps, does anyone have these? I want to know if the CHE can sit (in it's dome-hood of course) directly on the screen to like it does on my aquarium. (Basically is it the same kind of wire screen and do the 8 inch holes allow enough room between the heat source and the plastic that no melting/fire will occur - if that is even possible with PVC)

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My vision cages have a little lip on top and bottom that a snake can fit there whole body in. As soon as I seen my snake in it I just stuffed it with substrate.

You can get the dome cut out for the che, idk if it offers the protection your asking though. I know you said you like che but consider a rhp. You don't need to use heat tape with a rhp. It's just like a big che but is safe to use inside the enclosure.

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No one has mentioned showcase cages. I've always used tubs but just got in two new cages from showcase with glass sliding doors and I love them! http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...be0ef10087.jpg


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Hi guys,

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I was re-reading through the messages, and have any of you had any issues with the RHPs failing? Currently, I'm thinking of only getting an RHP (no Flexwatt), but it would be nice to have a backup in the event of a failure. Also, what is the wiring like for it? I just wanted to make sure I get the specs right, and my worries/doubts aside before I decide to make the plunge. Thanks again!

Edit: I am scrolling through the sticky on this topic, but it is taking a bit so I apologize if you guys have answered questions that are on there already

Whoops, I thought of something else and it won't let me make edits to my message. Would I be able to use a UTH instead of Flexwatt heat tape or is this type of cage only compatible with the Flexwatt?

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Whoops, I thought of something else and it won't let me make edits to my message. Would I be able to use a UTH instead of Flexwatt heat tape or is this type of cage only compatible with the Flexwatt?

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I currently have a T8 setup with an RHP in the enclosure, mounted to the ceiling and heat tape mounted to the bottom outside of the enclosure. Both run on a Herpstat II thermostat. I have played around with both heat sources. Here is what I have found....

1. The RHP is awesome. If you go with a divider for whatever reason in a T8, two 40w RHP's are great. If you don't use the divider, one 80w will work. I've had mine about a year with no issues.

2. Heat tape alone would be disappointing. I found that in my house (usually around 68 degrees F), my 24"x12" heat tape has to work pretty hard to keep the surface temp where I want it. This makes sense, as there is a lot of surface area, and the heat tape has to heat through 1/2" of pvc.

3. Like you, I like having a "backup", so I chose to run the RHP and the heat tape. I have heat tape only under the warm side, and I have it set so the surface temp would have to drop to around 85 degrees before it will kick on. My RHP runs about 30% most of the time and keeps the entire cage pretty spot on.

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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy

I currently have a T8 setup with an RHP in the enclosure, mounted to the ceiling and heat tape mounted to the bottom outside of the enclosure. Both run on a Herpstat II thermostat. I have played around with both heat sources. Here is what I have found....

1. The RHP is awesome. If you go with a divider for whatever reason in a T8, two 40w RHP's are great. If you don't use the divider, one 80w will work. I've had mine about a year with no issues.

2. Heat tape alone would be disappointing. I found that in my house (usually around 68 degrees F), my 24"x12" heat tape has to work pretty hard to keep the surface temp where I want it. This makes sense, as there is a lot of surface area, and the heat tape has to heat through 1/2" of pvc.

3. Like you, I like having a "backup", so I chose to run the RHP and the heat tape. I have heat tape only under the warm side, and I have it set so the surface temp would have to drop to around 85 degrees before it will kick on. My RHP runs about 30% most of the time and keeps the entire cage pretty spot on.

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I'm looking to get the exact same setup as you (T8 with no divider and my house is kept cool too). Do you bias the placement of your RHP to one side or the other, or is it centered? What are your warm side vs cool side temps and so you take temp readings inside the hides?


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Originally Posted by jylesa

Whoops, I thought of something else and it won't let me make edits to my message. Would I be able to use a UTH instead of Flexwatt heat tape or is this type of cage only compatible with the Flexwatt?

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I have UTH's on several of my T8s. They work great but I'm planning on switching to RHPs for my carpets.

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Originally Posted by BPGator

I'm looking to get the exact same setup as you (T8 with no divider and my house is kept cool too). Do you bias the placement of your RHP to one side or the other, or is it centered? What are your warm side vs cool side temps and so you take temp readings inside the hides?


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I'm using two 40w's, but if I hadn't gotten the divider and just used one 80w, Yes, I would install it off-center. I'd still try to keep a few inches between the edge of the rhp and the side of the enclosure if possible. If I just use RHP heat, I can have one side with these temps:

Warm side - 91/92F inside the hide, 88-90 surface temperature

Cool side - 78F surface/ambient and about 81F inside the hide.

These can be adjusted, and live in a 100+ year old house, so it can fluctuate heat a good bit. The temps in my T8 generally may fluctuate a degree or two, but that's about it. I have one Herpstat probe inside the enclosure for my RHP, I have two accurites (one warm side, and one cool side) and I also use a heat gun to spot check my temps a couple of times a week.

One more question--!

I'm likely going to forego the flex-watt heat tape and just stick with a RBI RHP. I'll add a UTH as a hot spot if needed in the winter if the RHP alone is not sufficient (although from the looks of it, it looks like it should be fine). For asthetics, I would like to ask AP to install the fluorescent lighting. A Google search of the setup show that they place the bulb towards the back of the enclosure. Is that true to your guys' experience? How far away should I place the RHP from the fluorescent bulbs? I know they don't get very hot, but I would also like to avoid damage to either the RHP or bulb in either case.

If you have the RHP sent to Animal Plastics they will install it for free and router a channel for the power cord as well, at least they did with my Pro-Products RHPs. Also, on the subject of lighting, call them when you place your order and ask about their LED light option. Less obtrusive than fluorescent fixtures, lasts way longer, and uses less energy. I just got two T-8s from them and had them CNC the channel for their LED strip ($10 per cage) and then got my own light strip off ebay ($15ish). AP only offers blue, white, and red LED lights so I got a remote operated color changing set on ebay for way cheap. If you go that route just be sure that you get an 8mm LED strip. That's what size they cut the light recess.
I believe this is the same light set that I ordered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-12V-Water...-/381288601909

Thanks jmcrook! I didn't know they had an option for fluorescent lights. Looks much better and is significantly cheaper than the fluorescent lighting they offer. If you don't mind me asking, how did you fix the LED stirp to your enclosure and how was the installation? I'm not exactly handy, haha, my last lighting/electrical fiasco was installing ballast bypass LEDs into my kitchen light fixture, and that was an adventure in itself. I'm assuming this will be much easier.

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Thanks jmcrook! I didn't know they had an option for fluorescent lights. Looks much better and is significantly cheaper than the fluorescent lighting they offer. If you don't mind me asking, how did you fix the LED stirp to your enclosure?

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You are quite welcome! Mine are adhered with an adhesive backing on the light strip. I know... No tape in an enclosure... :colbert: but they are very snug fitting in the channel that they route in the top of the cage and sit more than flush with the surface of the cage ceiling, no protrusion at all. The snakes would have to have access to a screwdriver or some other sort of leverage and opposible thumbs in order to pry them free hahaha. In the event that I notice anything coming loose I know that others on here have used a bead of silicone to ensure they never come off. I also opted for a waterproof set of lights. Most are water resistant but I figured it was worth a couple more bucks for peace of mind. If you have AP install the LED strip that they offer the whole LED option runs you $40 vs $10 for them to cut the channel and you install your own LED strip. Sure, it's an absolutely guaranteed perfect fit with their LED and you don't have to install anything but they don't have an on/off switch (have to plug/unplug to turn on or off) or dimmer and are only one color. I really wanted the option to change colors for day/night viewing and cleaning purposes, and my set has like 20 color options, dimming, remote controlled. I absolutely love them.

Boaphile hands down Jeff builds awesome cages!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

You are quite welcome! Mine are adhered with an adhesive backing on the light strip. I know... No tape in an enclosure... :colbert: but they are very snug fitting in the channel that they route in the top of the cage and sit more than flush with the surface of the cage ceiling, no protrusion at all. The snakes would have to have access to a screwdriver or some other sort of leverage and opposible thumbs in order to pry them free hahaha. In the event that I notice anything coming loose I know that others on here have used a bead of silicone to ensure they never come off. I also opted for a waterproof set of lights. Most are water resistant but I figured it was worth a couple more bucks for peace of mind. If you have AP install the LED strip that they offer the whole LED option runs you $40 vs $10 for them to cut the channel and you install your own LED strip. Sure, it's an absolutely guaranteed perfect fit with their LED and you don't have to install anything but they don't have an on/off switch (have to plug/unplug to turn on or off) or dimmer and are only one color. I really wanted the option to change colors for day/night viewing and cleaning purposes, and my set has like 20 color options, dimming, remote controlled. I absolutely love them.

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Hey again,

Sorry for all the questions! The product you linked (I think I will likely get that one, checking on Amazon, the one you linked seems to be a good bet) is 5m long. How did you shorten(??)/work the cable around your enclosure? I am very not handy at all, but this looks simple enough. How far away was it from your heat panel?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Hey again,

Sorry for all the questions! The product you linked (I think I will likely get that one, checking on Amazon, the one you linked seems to be a good bet) is 5m long. How did you shorten(??)/work the cable around your enclosure? I am very not handy at all, but this looks simple enough. How far away was it from your heat panel?

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No worries at all! The LED strip can be cut to whatever length you want. It's marked where you can do so, all you need is a pair of scissors. Animal Plastics routes the LED channel about 6" from the back of the cage top. Sits just behind the heat panel. I'd definitely recommend having AP do the recessed LED channel for you. Well worth the $10.
When installing the light strip I fed it through the top of the cage, left enough hanging out at the connecting end so that I could connect to the transformer/power supply and then cut it at the closest length that fits the channel. I'll try to post some pics shortly. Also check out the How to set up a PVC cage (AP T8) With Pictures!sticky on here. Way helpful and informative thread!

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...ge_320442.jpeg

LED Strip behind the heat panel in AP LED light recessed channel


http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...ge_933779.jpeg

LED strip cord exit on the top of the enclosure (I cover this part with black electric tape, it's pretty bright)


http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...age_22170.jpeg

LED remote sensor (I attach this to the back of the enclosure with adhesive backed velcro so I can remove it easily if needed. It's got two holes to screw it in place but I wanted minimal drilling and holes in my brand new cages. I use this velcro for just about everything!)

Hey jmcrook,

Thanks a ton for the pictures, advice and help! Definitely clears things up a bit. I guess the only thing is making sure the LED strip is 8mm before buying although it looks like the SMD 3528s are typically smaller, haha, but definitely thanks for all the help :)!

Edit: Doh, I guess the numbers correspond to the size, which would make sense, haha, shows how much I know about these things.

No problem! Happy to help out! :gj: The lights I sent the link to should be 8mm. It took me a bit of research when ordering mine but the 3528 LEDs are an 8mm wide strip and I believe the 5050 LEDs are a 10mm wide strip. 3528 refers to the size of the individual light chips in the strip being 3.5mm x 2.8mm. I can't say 100% for sure that my strip is exactly 8mm but it fits super snug and secure in the channel that AP cut for me and that's what counts in my book!

edit: yeah, I was pretty clueless when I was trying to get my cages/accessories ordered. Using the LEDs that animal plastics uses would have taken all the guesswork out of it but I was dead set on having the option to change colors at the push of a button and AP LEDs didn't offer that

Hi guys again,

Sorry to keep bringing this post back from the dead. I'm finally talking to AP about getting the T8. They said they don't drill t-stat probes but will for no charge. I ended up going with the Intro+ by Herpstat. I definitely did not think about this haha, so I wanted to ask how people went about doing this or if they did at all. My only heat source will be RBI 80 watt heat panel. Thanks again in advanced!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Hi guys again,

Sorry to keep bringing this post back from the dead. I'm finally talking to AP about getting the T8. They said they don't drill t-stat probes but will for no charge. I ended up going with the Intro+ by Herpstat. I definitely did not think about this haha, so I wanted to ask how people went about doing this or if they did at all. My only heat source will be RBI 80 watt heat panel. Thanks again in advanced!

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I just feed the Herpstat probe through the hole for the heat panel power cord. Fits through pretty easily and then it's hanging just barely behind the RHP. I leave it dangling about halfway down the cage height. I've got an Acurite thermometer probe one the cage floor right under the panel to double check the temps. It's gonna take a little bit of playing around to dial temps in perfectly but once they're set you'll be good. My stat is set to 87-88 to get a floor temp of 90 and that's with the probe hanging just behind the panel. It will be way more clear once you start setting it all up


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The PVC AP uses is, I'd say, a bit softer than wood, and easy to drill/screw into. Drilling holes isn't scary, and doesn't even require big power tools - an inexpensive hand drill or small "power screwdriver" is enough.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jylesa

Hey guys! It's been awhile since I've posted on here. I've been thinking about upgrading Bazzy (BP) from his Sterlite bin enclosure to a professionally made PVC enclosure. I am interested in several brands at the moment (listed in the title) and have poked around here. It seems like the consensus falls in favor of Animal Plastics in terms of product quality and customer service. The more I read, I am leaning more and more towards AP as well.

I found this review here particularly helpful: http://www.reptileinsider.com/showth...n-Use-and-Not)

That being said, I have a few considerations I wanted to ask you all about:

1. If I go with the AP enclosure, I'm thinking about installing a radiant heat panel to help maintain ambient temps especially in the winter. However, I am not a handy person. How easy is it to do this?

2. I'm hoping to get a red-tailed boa one of these days. The stackability of the AP and Vision enclosures make this appealing. Considering my current snake (3 yr old, about 1kg), what is the most appropriate size for him? I'm thinking T8 for my BP and T11 if I get the boa.

3. Do you all have a preference for sliding/swing doors? I prefer glass to acrylic.

4. In the review linked above, it says the AP tanks can be equipped with flex-watt; however, it is fixed in place by crimping and using plastic clips. According to the article, it mentions that the use of plastic clips be a little more dangerous. This makes sense, but I've never heard of this happening. What is the best way to remediate this (other than to do it myself...not very handy; not sure I'd trust myself to do it right)?

I look forward to hearing your opinions! Thank you :)

Attached some pictures of my Baz, just for fun and since it's been awhile :) https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...25&oe=58033B24
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2b&oe=57CA4587

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Regarding AP, I have one 18" tall enclosure with divider, housing one BP in each 24 x 24 x 18H space.

I have a pro products 40 watt radiant heat panel in each half. Reptile basics is supposed to be just as good. To order ProProducts you contact them, answer questions about your enclosure and climate, and they will give recommendations on proper sizing and placement.

The pro products RHP has two mounting holes on opposite ends of the square panel. In my case, I gorilla glued the panels to the roof of my enclosure (liberally applied, its a permanent solution). I also through-drilled one of the holes in the RHP through the roof of the enclosure, and used a pop rivet (flush side showing) to serve as secondary securement.

All of this is driven by a Herpstat 4, with one probe under each RHP, one probe in the cool spot/opposite corner to monitor my gradient, and a humidity probe on the roof over the cool spot of one enclosure.

I have glass sliders. I have the red LED light strip installed... the RHP's cover about 40% of each half of the light strip, but there is plenty of light nevertheless. I leave the red on 24/7/365. The stock power supply failed about 2 minutes out of the gate, I replaced it with something from Fry's and its gone steady since.

One mod: With the stock arrangement, the front face of the enclosure is not entirely symmetrical. The upper lip is thinner, the lower lip is thicker, presumably to hold in a thick bed of substrate. Our critters come out at night and poke around, and the thick lip obstructed our viewing of them from our seating angle on the couch.

I took the cage partially apart, and flipped the front face, putting the thicker lip on top and the thinner lip on the bottom, and resecured it. In doing so, I discovered that the milled slots for the glass sliding panes were not uniform, and to make the glass fit as it should, I had to reverse the panes, and to reverse the panes, I had to remove the lock, and reverse it as well. Not anything difficult or requiring special tools, just a testament to how precise a fit everything on the AP enclosure is.

Regarding flexwatt, with an AP enclosure and a properly sized RHP, you wont NEED any flexwatt or belly heat. I did try to put my adhesive backed heating element on the bottom of the AP enclosure to put heat under the water bowl (had a temp probe on the water bowl), and it made NO MEASURABLE DIFFERENCE. The heat did not penetrate the PVC to meaningfully warm the water or bowl in my instance.

Like mentioned, drilling for t-stat probes is easy on pretty much any of the pvc cages. I use a RHP on my Constrictors NW cage but for my 3 AP T10s, I just use flexwatt with the herpstat probes slotted into the routed channels they put on the bottom of the cages. It really depends on how warm you keep your snake room/house. For me, I keep my house around 75-78F during the winter so either works for me. Just a cleaner look with flexwatt on the Ap cages especially since I ordered all mine with shelves and the pre installed LED lighting they mount in there. Definitely worth the extra $40 as they are recessed and very clean looking and they route a channel in the top so you can still stack cages.

Bottom line is unless your house gets really cold during the winter, you wont need both. If your house is kept on the lower end of 70F, i'd go with a RHP. Around 75F+, flexwatt should work just fine. BTW in a 4x2 Constrictors NW, i'm using the Pro Products PH3 65watt RHP and it is plenty.

Oh forgot to mention also. Installing a RHP is really easy. I just laid mine down on the top of the cage where I wanted it and marked the holes with a pen. Then just drilled the 2 mounting holes and used the supplied bolt and nuts and it was done. That's for the Pro Product. If you use a RBI one, I heard they come with wood screwed so you don't have to drill at all, just screw it into the roof of the cage.

I finally got my shipment and set up the enclosure a few days ago. Sealing it was a little messy, but here's the final product :) Thanks for peeps who replied with advice!


https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t35....9d&oe=57ED3EAB

Looks great! How do you like it? Give us the specs on all the bells and whistles you got! Congrats!


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The cat clearly approves! [emoji1]


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Hey! I ended up getting the 70 watt panel by RBI and had them drill a hole for the t-stat probe (seen hanging on the left side of the enclosure. I ended up using those lights jmcrook recommended from ebay and they are great :). The t-stat I am using is the Herpstat Intro+. So far, I'm satisfied with the overall quality and asthetic of the enclosure. Keeps the snake in and the cats out although I tried (tried) to get a family picture of the three of them yesterday. https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t34....36&oe=57EFA16B
Thank you all for helping me figure out the specs :)