BP won't eat

Okay so I've already made a thread before and got everything about my baby's temps and husbandry fixed. I thought that would make him less stressed and he'd be able to eat, but he won't. When I tried to feed him he seemed afraid of the mouse (f/t pinky). Then he seemed sort of stressed. He's been fine and has been hiding all the time (which I know is a good thing) ever since I got everything fixed temperature and husbandry wise. But he won't eat. I imagine it's been at least three weeks since he's last eaten and I'm starting to worry a bit.

3 weeks isn't that long . They can go months . How old is the snake ? Weight?


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Also, f/t mouse pinkies are way too small. I just got my first ball about a month ago and she refused her first four meals with me and only ate a few days ago for the first time so he should eat soon, he'll eat when he's ready. I also didn't try and get her to strike feed last time I went to feed, just left it with her overnight and she ate no problem. I also heated the head up under the hot water tap so it seemed more 'lifelike'. So things like that might help you out a bit. Hope that helps you a bit, and I hope he starts eating soon! [emoji4]


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I'm not sure of his exact age or weight. He's a pet store snake, and yes I know it's not good to get them from there.

Thank you. I thought about trying fuzzies. I've already tried heating them up and leaving them in there overnight but he just doesn't seem interested. I'm going to try dipping the mouse in chicken broth and see if he'll eat it like that.

If it's too small he won't even try. If he's no bigger than a hatchling, he'll need at least a hopper mouse, or a fuzzy rat. Something that's about as big as the widest spot in his middle.

What are the conditions in his tank? A lot of BPs won't eat unless everything is perfect.

I was thinking that could be the case. I'm going to try a hopper mouse as soon as I can get around to getting one, probably Monday or Tuesday. The conditions are perfect, and he's been fine until I stressed him out by trying various ways to feed him. The chicken broth did not work.

Try getting mice from a different vendor. I know this sounds wierd but my ball will not eat the balk frozen mice i get from our local reptile store but he will eat the individually packaged ones i get from the chain store. My other ball doesnt care and will anything.

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I'll try that. I know most people don't recommend feeding live, but I've read that some balls only eat live and refuse f/t. I was considering live but I don't want to for Draco's own good. I'd rather be safe than sorry in this case.

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Originally Posted by Slytherin_python

I'll try that. I know most people don't recommend feeding live, but I've read that some balls only eat live and refuse f/t. I was considering live but I don't want to for Draco's own good. I'd rather be safe than sorry in this case.

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Not sure which "most people" you're talking about, but when done properly feeding live is perfectly fine and is the preferred method for many keepers. BPs are designed to be incredibly efficient predators so there is little need to worry about live once you become comfortable/knowledgeable about feeding live prey safely.

I've read and heard horror stories about feeding live. How the mouse or rat has killed or seriously injured people's snakes. That's the reason why I'm almost afraid to feed live.

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Originally Posted by Slytherin_python

I've read and heard horror stories about feeding live. How the mouse or rat has killed or seriously injured people's snakes. That's the reason why I'm almost afraid to feed live.

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One of the most important rules of feeding live is - don't leave your snake unsupervised. Yes, a rodent can hurt, and even kill your snake, but not if you are watching and ready to remove it if there's a problem. I've had snakes bitten - because they wrapped the rodent wrong, and it was able to get a bite or two in before it died. They ate it anyway, and the bites healed up without any problem. I put the rodent in with my snake, close the tub so it can't get back out, but I keep an eye on the tub so that I can see what's going on - and if the snake is clearly not interested, the rodent comes right back out. If the snake is interested, I leave it in longer, but after ten to fifteen minutes, if there's not some very aggressive hunting going on, the rodent comes out until next feeding day. Where people run into problems with their snakes being attacked by a rodent, generally, is where they just toss it in, close up the cage, and leave it there assuming that either their snake will kill it, or it will hide and not be a problem. My smallest snake is still only about 160g, and he's taking large adult mice without any problem at all, so be sure that you are feeding large enough prey. He won't even look at a hopper mouse.

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Originally Posted by Slytherin_python

I've read and heard horror stories about feeding live. How the mouse or rat has killed or seriously injured people's snakes. That's the reason why I'm almost afraid to feed live.

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Nearly 100% of the time these accidents are the keeper's fault. Yes, when things go bad they can go really bad and the pictures are pretty horrific. But that's the extreme exception to the rule, as thousands of live prey items are fed every single day without issue.

Try a small live mouse-offer it later in the day and pre-scent the room by leaving the mouse in it's cage by the snake cage for an hour or two before feeding. Drop it in, shut the lid and check back in 10 minutes, take it out if he hasn't eaten and is curled up hiding from it, if he's out showing interest you could leave it a bit longer before giving up and removing it. A pinky or hopper is too small btw so not surprising your snake ignored it, especially f/t.

If your husbandry is correct, offer once a week and worry after 4 months or more.

Thank you very much! I just got a mouse and gave it to him and the second he saw it it was gone. Thank you for your help! :]

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Originally Posted by jmcameron9721

Try getting mice from a different vendor. I know this sounds wierd but my ball will not eat the balk frozen mice i get from our local reptile store but he will eat the individually packaged ones i get from the chain store. My other ball doesnt care and will anything.

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Nearly 100% of the time these accidents are the keeper's fault. Yes, when things go bad they can go really bad and the pictures are pretty horrific. But that's the extreme exception to the rule, as thousands of live prey items are fed every single day without issue.

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Originally Posted by Caspian

One of the most important rules of feeding live is - don't leave your snake unsupervised. Yes, a rodent can hurt, and even kill your snake, but not if you are watching and ready to remove it if there's a problem. I've had snakes bitten - because they wrapped the rodent wrong, and it was able to get a bite or two in before it died. They ate it anyway, and the bites healed up without any problem. I put the rodent in with my snake, close the tub so it can't get back out, but I keep an eye on the tub so that I can see what's going on - and if the snake is clearly not interested, the rodent comes right back out. If the snake is interested, I leave it in longer, but after ten to fifteen minutes, if there's not some very aggressive hunting going on, the rodent comes out until next feeding day. Where people run into problems with their snakes being attacked by a rodent, generally, is where they just toss it in, close up the cage, and leave it there assuming that either their snake will kill it, or it will hide and not be a problem. My smallest snake is still only about 160g, and he's taking large adult mice without any problem at all, so be sure that you are feeding large enough prey. He won't even look at a hopper mouse.

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Originally Posted by Slytherin_python

Okay so I've already made a thread before and got everything about my baby's temps and husbandry fixed. I thought that would make him less stressed and he'd be able to eat, but he won't. When I tried to feed him he seemed afraid of the mouse (f/t pinky). Then he seemed sort of stressed. He's been fine and has been hiding all the time (which I know is a good thing) ever since I got everything fixed temperature and husbandry wise. But he won't eat. I imagine it's been at least three weeks since he's last eaten and I'm starting to worry a bit.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slytherin_python

I'll try that. I know most people don't recommend feeding live, but I've read that some balls only eat live and refuse f/t. I was considering live but I don't want to for Draco's own good. I'd rather be safe than sorry in this case.

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Originally Posted by jmcameron9721

7ccgvftsd24esdfhv4 et2gsetfdexgreefrrdsk0z4wzz7rzgvol9s5cze9ce9vvood9hdrsecfzederrro9er srzdfew x4voe5wtei9vl









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I think someone fell asleep on the keyboard! ;)