New Snake trying to get him on F/T

I just got a new Ball Python a little while ago and was wondering what is the best way to get him on F/T. He seems a tad skinny (still healthy, I just like fat snakes) so I have been trying to get him eating a little bit earlier then a week but he seems too skittish so I think that was a mistake. If he still isn't eating in a week or two should I just throw in a live mouse to make sure he doesn't starve? I haven't been handling at all to reduce any amount of stress on him.

Any tips and tricks would be appreciated! :D

What was he eating before you got him? If he was on live before then feed him live until he eats 4-5 times for you and then start switching to f/t. If he was on f/t before it may just take time for him to settle in. It took almost month for my male to take a rodent from me and he still wouldn't eat every feeding day. Sometimes it was every 2 weeks he would eat and sometimes 3. Now he eats every 5 days like clock work. My last 7 feedings have been successful. Just be patient.

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The store I got him from hadn't fed him yet so idk what the breeder was feeding him. I did get him from petsmart cause I just wanted a normal (since I personally like darker colored snakes and like how normals look.) I'm only impatient cause it is young and he doesn't have much weight to lose if he were to fast. I also have never fed a snake F/T and I know BPs can be picky so was curious if there any tips people use to encourage their snake to eat F/T.

Oh on a side note I have my thermostat on top of my uth and set at 90 degrees F but the substrate (aspen) on top of that is colder can I safely raise it a bit so it'll hit up the tub and substrate a bit more? I was thinking about 95 so if he somehow managed to get below the substrate it should still be safe for him.

It's healthier for a snake to be a tad skinny than a tad fat, despite however you may prefer it.

As far as switching, just keep offering and eventually he'll take it. With my bp, offering my rats/mice warm over the entire body helps. Sometimes he'll take it if I leave it in the enclosure. Took me 1.5 years to switch mine after ~6 years of eating live, so my best advise is persistence.

[QUOTE=CloudtheBoa;2441375]It's healthier for a snake to be a tad skinny than a tad fat, despite however you may prefer it./QUOTE]
I knew you can overfeed snakes but didn't know that bit of advice so thanks! <3

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Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa

. Took me 1.5 years to switch mine after ~6 years of eating live, so my best advise is persistence.

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Did she just not eat for a year and a half? I don't think mine will survive long if I can't get him to eat.

No I gave him live a few times. He probably would have taken f/t sooner if I had just stuck it out and didn't offer anything else.

The longest fast he had was 8 months but I don't think that was during the time I was trying to switch him.


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it's really not that tricky. as others have stated, if it's been fed live it would be best to continue that for a few feeding in it's new home as it settles in. the fewer changes the better. almost all will take f/t without hesitation. I've never had an issue with this.

if the snake is a hatchling, you need to make sure it feeds. this is more important than making the switch.

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Originally Posted by KillerofGods

Oh on a side note I have my thermostat on top of my uth and set at 90 degrees F but the substrate (aspen) on top of that is colder can I safely raise it a bit so it'll hit up the tub and substrate a bit more? I was thinking about 95 so if he somehow managed to get below the substrate it should still be safe for him.

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he will get below the substrate, count on it. there will be some heat loss between the heat source and the cage. the highest temp the snake can reach is what you need to monitor. the bottom of the cage, not the top of the substrate. take the temp there (but keep the probe on the outside) and adjust as needed. i'd be a little more patient and adjust it in something less than 5 degree increments. your BP has no need for any temps above mid/upper 80s. (apologies to the "your hotspot must be exactly 90 degrees" crowd)

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Originally Posted by KillerofGods

Oh on a side note I have my thermostat on top of my uth and set at 90 degrees F but the substrate (aspen) on top of that is colder can I safely raise it a bit so it'll hit up the tub and substrate a bit more? I was thinking about 95 so if he somehow managed to get below the substrate it should still be safe for him.

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I think 95 is a bit high. I stay 93 and under. My super pastel is at 93 under substrate keeping top at 89-90 and he burrows down in his care fresh and has never shown a close sign of a burn. My killer bee is at 92 under substrate and stays 88-89 on top and has never shown sign of a burn either. You can bump it up a little and if you want the top of the aspen a little warmer then just remove a little from the warm side.

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