RHP Heating?

I am thinking of buying a AP T8, and dividing it to potentially hold 2 BPs. Will a 40 watt RHP from RBI be able to heat both sides in a 60° room , or should I just get the 80 watt? Note that I have a herpstat 2.

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I have the same setup and Reptile Basics suggested a 40 watt rhp for each side although my room never falls below 70 degrees

Pro products told me to get a 40w 11 3/4x12 1/4 for a v221 28x22x14 and I told them it can get down to 60 degrees. I know your ordering from reptile basics but it should work the same. I may be ordering the 40w from RBI myself to save money but I wanted to see what pro products had to say first so I knew which size to buy no matter who I bought it from.

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I have a T8 divided. You will need a 40w RHP for each side. one won't cut it. Even if I was just housing one snake in a T8, I think I'd either want two 40's or one 80w RHP. If your room was a steady 75+, you MIGHT be able to get away with one 40w, but that's a big maybe.

Getting two 40w's up front is a little more money, but great piece of mind. I like having the two 40w's in mine. Now I have the option of running it as one enclosure, or two.

Now that I reread my OP, it does sound like I am asking if a 40 watt could heat the entire thing. I actually want to know if it could handle one side, so I would need 2 of them.

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Gotcha. Yep, one per side is sufficient. I have my enclosure in a room that stays around 68F. I have my 40w RHP on a herpstat II, and aside from the first time I plugged it in, I've never seen it running over 70%. I have mine slightly off-center on each side and that creates a gradient of about 8-10 degrees. I also have heat tape, but it rarely ever comes on at all.

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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy

Gotcha. Yep, one per side is sufficient.

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Even at plain 60°?

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Originally Posted by Jon14

Even at plain 60°?

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Like I said in my above post pro-products said that a 40w would work in a room that is 60*F for a 28x22x12 so that would be a tiny bit bigger then half a T8 so you should be good. I know your getting a reptile basics rhp but they both are 40w and the RBI is a tiny bit bigger so they will perform with similar results. Getting the 80w you would have no gradient, idk what the inner dimensions are of the t8 but you might be able to have 80w length run the width of the cage. That's if 22.5 will fit in the inside. But the thing is that your not suppose to have the rhp right against a wall, there should be a little gap and that would be a problem with the 80w. I trust what pro-products told me bc of there years and years experience and I also trust reptile basics quality to deliver the same results bc of all the research I did bc I will be purchasing the 40w rbi as well for a room that gets down to 60.

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Actually, the 40 watt RHP would be 1/4 (12.5" x 12.5") of the cage, the 80 watt (12.5" x 22.5") would be half of the cage.

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Originally Posted by Jon14

Actually, the 40 watt RHP would be 1/4 (12.5" x 12.5") of the cage, the 80 watt (12.5" x 22.5") would be half of the cage.

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Yes I realized that then couldn't edit but with the divider you lose half inch and then you lose another 1 inch in material bc cages are listed with outside dimensions. So 48 - 1.5= 46.5 ÷ 2= 23.25 so that gives you 3/4 of an inch if you mount it on the back wall. If you mounted it so the 22.5 goes width wise of the cage you would only get half inch of room 24 width minus 1 inch in material gives you 23. Animal plastics states that dimensions are exact so you gotta hope they give you exact or more and not less or you will have no room for the 80w. Plus reptile basics says you cannot mount within 6 inches of any surface, I'm sure people do but it will void warranty if you do and something goes wrong. You would probably get away with 4 inches from a surface but you wouldn't be able to mount the 80w even an inch away from a surface.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Yes I realized that then couldn't edit but with the divider you lose half inch and then you lose another 1 inch in material bc cages are listed with outside dimensions. So 48 - 1.5= 46.5 ÷ 2= 23.25 so that gives you 3/4 of an inch if you mount it on the back wall. If you mounted it so the 22.5 goes width wise of the cage you would only get half inch of room 24 width minus 1 inch in material gives you 23. Animal plastics states that dimensions are exact so you gotta hope they give you exact or more and not less or you will have no room for the 80w. Plus reptile basics says you cannot mount within 6 inches of any surface, I'm sure people do but it will void warranty if you do and something goes wrong. You would probably get away with 4 inches from a surface but you wouldn't be able to mount the 80w even an inch away from a surface.

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Thank you for clarifying the dimensions, I somewhat assumed that the dimensions given were interior, and I wasn't sure how wide the divider was. I also was unaware of the 6" from a surface for RHP, but it makes sense. From thinking about it, having the RHP moved closer to the center to provide proper spacing should provide proper temperatures and gradient.

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Originally Posted by Jon14

Thank you for clarifying the dimensions, I somewhat assumed that the dimensions given were interior, and I wasn't sure how wide the divider was. I also was unaware of the 6" from a surface for RHP, but it makes sense. From thinking about it, having the RHP moved closer to the center to provide proper spacing should provide proper temperatures and gradient.

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You can call ap and tell them you need exactly 48x24x12 on the inside and they would do it but you would be looking at waiting longer for the cage. They should list both interior and exterior dimensions but unfortunately I don't know of any companies that do. Your exactly right about having it moved closer to center would give proper gradient, not all the way in the middle obviously but either right center or left center depending on which side you want to mount it on.

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Well looks like I will be digging into my emergency savings for the upgrade. I see yet another expensive summer this year.

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Originally Posted by Jon14

Well looks like I will be digging into my emergency savings for the upgrade. I see yet another expensive summer this year.

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I hear you lol People say keeping bps are cheap but not when buying new ones and then they grow and you need a new cage, bigger hides, bigger heating devices, etc lol I just put a deposit down on a $1000 bp and picked up a used vision 221 and then just bought another thermostat bc my Herpstat 6 is full and have to buy an rhp as well. I have to buy 2 T8s eventually and then will need new rhps lol if I had to do it again I would of bought t8s to start with instead of the visions I have so then I wouldn't of had to upgrade in the future. My male is the only one that doesn't need anything but rats from here on out.

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I heard about your new addition, and I plan on getting a '16 hatchling from the same guy this summer. I completely agree that to "properly" care for a BP can be expensive, especially the PVC cages, and high quality thermostats. Might have to start investing before I buy another BP, lol!

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That's what I liked about his payment plans for anything 750 an over. Gives you time to get what you need! I bought a used Herpstat Pro for $100 a little out dated but can't argue with a 4 zone thermostat from a reputable company. If you have the funds shell out for the Herpstat 6, you know you will need it eventually lol you hoping for a certain morph for the hatchling you will be getting?

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Well mine won't be over 750, but I want a .1 high contrast albino as I may start a recessive project after college (8 years down the road). Hopefully by the time I get another, they will have a herpstat 8 or 10! I may be able to get a tour if I am able to pick up the snake as I only live a little over an hour away from his facility. Which I think would be amazing.

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Wait, so will an 80w Pro Products be sufficient for a 60F room?

I have a couple of 65w and with out a thermostat they can get up to 145+, and they work awesome with my herpstat. I use them to maintain ambient temps and they range from 81-84 with it set at 84. I monitor the ranges using acurite thermometers/hygrometer.

Though with my home set at 72, my boaphile and t10 enclosures stay an ambient 81-83 on the cool side if my hot spot uth is set at 90.

Well experimented with the RHP, and it only goes up to 80°. Looks like I will have to rig up the heat tape for hot side.

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I have the 40W in the middle of a 30" enclosure about 14 inches tall. the room is between 60 to 65 degrees most of the time. At 100 percent the area directly below the actual panel is easily int eh low 80's, on warm days i bring the power down a little bit, but there is a very definite line where the "footprint" of heat stops and the temp drops about 5 - 7 degrees. its sufficient for now b/c the tank and snake are small, but when its time to upgrade to a 4 footer i'm certainly going to need another 40w and put them side by side to maintain a comfortable overall ambient temp.

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Originally Posted by Jon14

Well experimented with the RHP, and it only goes up to 80°. Looks like I will have to rig up the heat tape for hot side.

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Are you using half a t8 with 40w? Right now my room is 62 degrees in a 28x24x12 cage and mine is 91 hot 82 cool. Idk how its only 80. Where is your thermostat probe? Where is rhp mounted and what are you using to take temps?

It's half of my boaphile(2'x2'x1'). Thermostat probe sitting directly on bottom (testing without substrate), and that is what I am using to read temps. RHP mounted on ceiling of course.

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I will test with substrate this weekend when I have more time. Planned on setting up heat tape anyways just incase, so I got that setup today.

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Originally Posted by Jon14

It's half of my boaphile(2'x2'x1'). Thermostat probe sitting directly on bottom (testing without substrate), and that is what I am using to read temps. RHP mounted on ceiling of course.

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Put your thermostat probe right on floor under the rhp and set to 90 and wait, thats exactly how I have it and everything is perfect. I'm just testing right now and I have substrate. I think substrate may hold heat better then the cage itself but 80 seems rather low even without substrate. But if you put your probe on cool side then 80 would be good. But 80 for hot spot seems low. Just doesn't make sense to me. If you have probe hanging in air you will need to set the thermostat temp higher. Idk what boaphile uses for air flow but if there's a screen or vent completely cover it with PVC or something bc it will let a lot of heat out. I will also say that with my ve-300 it took about an hr or a little longer to get to temp, the set point alarm went off once and then when I hit the enter button twice it started heating again and made it to the set point where its sitting at now.

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There isn't much for opening, just a slight gap by the door. I had the probe directly under RHP. Well I plan to add a decent amount of substrate so that should help. When I tested it I taped the air gaps and left it for a good 4 hrs.

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Originally Posted by Jon14

There isn't much for opening, just a slight gap by the door. I had the probe directly under RHP. Well I plan to add a decent amount of substrate so that should help. When I tested it I taped the air gaps and left it for a good 4 hrs.

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I would try with substrate and if it doesn't give you the results you want the only thing I could think of is a faulty rhp. Never heard of that problem from reptile basics but could happen. I have pretty much the same conditions as you but my cage is 4 inches longer and I'm having no problem, only difference is I'm testing with substrate and acurite thermometers with probes and also temp guns.

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Have the newer style acurite thermometer and temp gun arriving monday.

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Originally Posted by Jon14

Have the newer style acurite thermometer and temp gun arriving monday.

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Good, I would set it up just like your about to put a snake in. I even have my hides in mine and inside my hide is 89 and probe is 91, I bumped it up to 91 bc my hide temp was 87 so I wanted to raise it a little. My cool side bounces from 82-83 now so I'm thinking since the acurite reads to the whole degree that it's at about 82.5 so it makes it bounce back and forth, its not constantly just every 5-10 mins it changes. Inside my cool hide is 81 now. Like I said you should be seeing similar results as me since are conditions are very similar, if you don't see changes after some more testing definitely call reptile basics and explain what's going on and I'm sure they will help you out.

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Oh and something else you can try since you don't have your snake in there is plug the rhp right into the wall and use your thermostat probe as a thermometer, maybe some how the thermostat is holding back on the power supplied to the rhp. I wouldn't do this if your snake is in there but could be a good testing method to try to figure out where the problem is.

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I tried that...left it plugged in the wall for an hour and no difference, so I unplugged so that it wouldn't overheat while I was at work.

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