New user with new python

Hello my friends, i decided to join this forum because im getting very soon my first snake. I love snakes, but unfortunelly i never had the chance to own one, but life changed a couple of things in my life and my gf its like me, she just adore all kinds of animals. We talked about owning a snake, and we are gonne buy one this week for as my Christmas present.

Now, deal is....this snake is "second hand", and i really wanna have it because all animals deserve a happy home, and this fellow is not diferent.

Infos i asked and answers i got from the owner :
How often does she eat ? Every 6 weeks
Live or frozen rats? Live rats only
How old is? 18 years old
How often was in vet or last time? Not sure
Is a she or he? He
Agressive or...? Extreme calm.
How often get out of the cage? Not answered
How big is terrarium? 1,20cm x 60cm x 60cm with light, UV, heater.

I want to learn very well and make no mistakes, thats why i joined this forum. Its my first snake and i have no experience in taking care of them, so any PROFI advice is way more than welcome.

Regards,

I am not sure but every 6 weeks may be a little too little. I have never heard of a ball python being offered less then 2 weeks. If he refuses then it is so, but I think he should be offered food more often. Ball pythons do not need a light or UV lighting at all. Light can actually stress them out and ball pythons do not make good decorative animals to even need a light. If the room has enough natural light then a light is not needed. Ball pythons hide for a good portion of the day, making the UV lighting completely useless.

Things to look for before purchasing, especially if this ball python is coming from an owner and not a breeder would be any health issues. Mouth looks nice and pink. Scales are healthy. Check for scaring especially along the belly. Listen to his breathing and make sure there are no popping noises. Check for mites (on the snake, in the heat pits and you may see it in the bedding) and check that the owner has kept his cage clean.

Ball pythons need to have belly heat, which means you will need a heat pad. I am not sure what you mean by "heater" whether that is a ceramic bulb heater or pad but you need the heat pad regardless. Along with a heat pad you will need some sort of thermostat. There are many offered on amazon. The more accurate ones will be more expensive.

Being eighteen years old, he is definitely not old. He could live up to 30+ years so be sure you understand that even though he is older, it will still be a very long commitment. Good luck with your new friend and post pictures once and if you get him.

Hi BCS, and thx fir the prompt reply.

This is 100% why i joined this forum. Some of the explanations you gived me are indeed diferent from what owners from a pet shop gived me. I dont even know what to say.

I asked and searched and checked videos and tutorials alot, waaaaaay alot, and in the end....whatever.

The guy in the store, wich his father told me he knows alot from snakes told me what would i need to have a Python.... Daylight bulbs 24/7, Heater bulb, Humidity bla bla, UV light bulb, etc... I asked for the "whole package" price, everything included, he asked me minimum CHF 900.- Im not discusting prices, but why the hell would i invest in something i dont really need?

I asked the owner to send me some pics from the setup and python...

http://www.redcodedesign.com/IMG-20151221-WA0016.jpg

http://www.redcodedesign.com/IMG-20151221-WA0017.jpg

I hate the setup to be honest, and when i saw the pics, again honestly, im not seeing a happy snake....im seeing just a snake... I really want him, and ill do what i can to have him with awesome conditions...

What can you say about the pics?

P.S: my place as plenty of sun light during day.

:welcome:That bulb has got to go for sure! ... The animal should never be able to make physicl contact with any bulb or heat source of any kind. Do a search on UTH or Under Tank Heaters .... These are usually the best bet and also the most commonly used method of heat combined with ambient temperature of the room that the snake is being kept in ... Good luck and you should be able to find any information you need on this site using the search feature

As T-Sauer said. Either get rid of, or get a cage for the Bulb. If the Snake touches that, it will burn itself. I have a Ceramic Heat Emitter with a cage in my big vivarium to keep the ambient perfect, as well as a Heat Mat run in conjunction with a thermostat, which is a must have.

This is what I mean by cage: http://www.888reptiles.co.uk/2318.html

2 new pics, more explicit :

http://www.redcodedesign.com/piton.jpg

Http://www.redcodedesign.com/piton2.jpg

Wow. That enclosure couldn't be more wrong for any snake, let alone a ball python. The only good thing about it is that it doesn't have a screen top.

First, you can get rid of all of the lights. Ball pythons are nocturnal; in the wild they live underground during the day and come out at night to hunt.

Second, an under-tank heater + thermostat can provide a nice basking spot. You want it set up so the glass floor of the tank over the heater is about 92*F.

Third, at least three sides of the glass enclosure should be covered up to make the snake feel more secure. Snakes do not like wide open spaces as they are easy prey for birds. They like to hide under things.

Fourth, I would get rid of the log hide as they mold quickly in high humidity environments, and when your snake invariably eliminates waste on it you can't clean it easily. Plastic hides like those offered at Reptile Basics are a better option.

I'm going to strongly agree with what the others stated regarding the light fixtures. In the wild ball pythons get their heat source from the warm burrows they hide in, not the sun above. So belly heat is essential for healthy digestion and a healthy snake. All of my snakes aren't even active during the day, unless it's feeding day than most will come out when they smell the rats. I only provide natural sunlight through the Windows of the room they are in and this is only to mimic a natural light cycle for them.

Unless the snake is consistently refusing food, feeding every 6 weeks definitely does not sound like enough. I feed all mine every 5-7 days generally unless they refuse, which I have one girl whose currently in a 2 week food strike. Also, keep in mind all my snakes are still pretty young and still growing. So for a mature snake like this one, I'd say maybe once a week would be fine and if he refuses, just wait a week and try again. As for feeding live, that's a personal preference. I feed all mine live because in my opinion it's more natural for the snake to hunt it prey but if you continue to feed live, please please make sure you monitor the process! A small rat has the ability to do some serious damage with those teeth of theirs. In fact, I'd rather be bitten by a snake than a rat lol

Make sure your provide two hides, one on the warm end and one on the cool end. My favorite expression I've heard on this forum "a hiding bp is a happy bp!" lol
Also, make sure to invest in a quality thermostat for the heat pad.

Hopefully some of this helped!

Welcome Ricardo!!

you have already gotten some great advice on what will need to change in that set up. That being said, the cage your getting looks pretty nice and from your post it seems like you will put a lot of work into setting up a cool environment. I really have nothing to add except;

1. welcome!
2. keep asking questions on here
3. and post pictures of your set up as you get it! (I want to see what you come up with!!)

First of all, i would like to thanks to all people who have given me and Jack a bit if their time and gived us some advices.

Im getting Jack 30.12.15, and im really excited. Im like a kid when the present owner sends me pics or whatever.

Yesterday i received a video of Jack... I went crazy...

He seems to be a very healthy boy...

http://www.redcodedesign.com/VID.mp4

I hope you guys enjoy it as much as i did...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BCS

I am not sure but every 6 weeks may be a little too little. I have never heard of a ball python being offered less then 2 weeks. If he refuses then it is so, but I think he should be offered food more often. Ball pythons do not need a light or UV lighting at all. Light can actually stress them out and ball pythons do not make good decorative animals to even need a light. If the room has enough natural light then a light is not needed. Ball pythons hide for a good portion of the day, making the UV lighting completely useless.

Things to look for before purchasing, especially if this ball python is coming from an owner and not a breeder would be any health issues. Mouth looks nice and pink. Scales are healthy. Check for scaring especially along the belly. Listen to his breathing and make sure there are no popping noises. Check for mites (on the snake, in the heat pits and you may see it in the bedding) and check that the owner has kept his cage clean.

Ball pythons need to have belly heat, which means you will need a heat pad. I am not sure what you mean by "heater" whether that is a ceramic bulb heater or pad but you need the heat pad regardless. Along with a heat pad you will need some sort of thermostat. There are many offered on amazon. The more accurate ones will be more expensive.

Being eighteen years old, he is definitely not old. He could live up to 30+ years so be sure you understand that even though he is older, it will still be a very long commitment. Good luck with your new friend and post pictures once and if you get him.

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Ball pythons dont need belly heat had one for a year always on ceramic no heat mat never missed a feed in brilliant health, in the wild heat comes from the sun which is above not below

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChelseaV

I'm going to strongly agree with what the others stated regarding the light fixtures. In the wild ball pythons get their heat source from the warm burrows they hide in, not the sun above. So belly heat is essential for healthy digestion and a healthy snake. All of my snakes aren't even active during the day, unless it's feeding day than most will come out when they smell the rats. I only provide natural sunlight through the Windows of the room they are in and this is only to mimic a natural light cycle for them.

Unless the snake is consistently refusing food, feeding every 6 weeks definitely does not sound like enough. I feed all mine every 5-7 days generally unless they refuse, which I have one girl whose currently in a 2 week food strike. Also, keep in mind all my snakes are still pretty young and still growing. So for a mature snake like this one, I'd say maybe once a week would be fine and if he refuses, just wait a week and try again. As for feeding live, that's a personal preference. I feed all mine live because in my opinion it's more natural for the snake to hunt it prey but if you continue to feed live, please please make sure you monitor the process! A small rat has the ability to do some serious damage with those teeth of theirs. In fact, I'd rather be bitten by a snake than a rat lol

Make sure your provide two hides, one on the warm end and one on the cool end. My favorite expression I've heard on this forum "a hiding bp is a happy bp!" lol
Also, make sure to invest in a quality thermostat for the heat pad.

Hopefully some of this helped!

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Still pretty sure the sun will warm the burrows lol

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tyson88

Still pretty sure the sun will warm the burrows lol

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That may be the case but it doesn't change the fact that ball pythons are not basking snakes. They do not lie on top of logs or rocks in order to obtain a heat source. They hide in burrows in the wild and in captivity they hide in the provided hide. So unless your ceramic heater is hot enough to heat through the hide you have provided for your snake and warm him to appropriate levels in order to maintain proper health and digestion than it is highly recommended for all new owners, such as the OP, to use a regulated UTH.

That is why hides have holes in point is ceramic is the more natural one. Newbies get your ceramics 100x better and safer 😊

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tyson88

That is why hides have holes in point is ceramic is the more natural one.

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:confusd::confusd::confusd::confusd: What......

Pretty sure the general consensus throughout the ball python hobby is that back/belly heat is the most recommended source of heat.

If I'm wrong and ceramic heat is the best option, than I'd love if you could provide a link to the information where you are pulling these facts from.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

:confusd::confusd::confusd::confusd: What......

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Lol, I said the same thing.

Its the cheapest and easiest for people with racks etc. Doesnt make it the best

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Again, can you provide links to the sources of where you got your information from? I've read numerous articles and information that is conflicting with what you are stating. If we are to give the OP and all new owners the best, most relevant information possible, it is necessary to be able to provide credible background sources and not base any advice given off of our own personal opinions.

Overhead heat sources, such as heat lamps or CHE's, are not recommended for any enclosure where the snake requires high humidity as they permit too much warm, humid air to escape out the top; the heat source must be separated from the animal and the air escapes around or through the fixture. A head source like an RHP works since the top of the enclosure is solid and the RHP is physically in the enclosure, but it's not really hot enough to burn your snake.

Heat pads or UTH's are recommended not necessarily because overhead versus belly heat is better, but because it's ideal for snakes that need high humidity in the enclosure.

Actually if you do the math Tyson, whole room heating is the cheapest when done correctly. :gj:

They don't need to have belly heat and racks are better for us once your collection starts to grow.

Its common sense really lol only a idiot would think a heat mat is better. Its easier for big collectors as it does the job. However if you have a couple use ceramic you can easily attain a 90 hot end under a log or a hide with a 76-80 cool end

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Actually if you do the math Tyson, whole room heating is the cheapest when done correctly. :gj:

They don't need to have belly heat and racks are better for us once your collection starts to grow.

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Agree if your room is already there thats perfect [emoji12]

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Overhead heat sources, such as heat lamps or CHE's, are not recommended for any enclosure where the snake requires high humidity as they permit too much warm, humid air to escape out the top; the heat source must be separated from the animal and the air escapes around or through the fixture. A head source like an RHP works since the top of the enclosure is solid and the RHP is physically in the enclosure, but it's not really hot enough to burn your snake.

Heat pads or UTH's are recommended not necessarily because overhead versus belly heat is better, but because it's ideal for snakes that need high humidity in the enclosure.

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I keep boas with ceramics never had a bad shed just spray the viv once a day?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tyson88

I keep boas with ceramics never had a bad shed just spray the viv once a day?

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If that works for you then that's fine. My house humidity crashes to 5% or lower in the winter, so I have to do everything I can to minimize ventilation in the snake cages and keep that warm, humid air in the enclosure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tyson88

Its common sense really lol only a idiot would think a heat mat is better. Its easier for big collectors as it does the job. However if you have a couple use ceramic you can easily attain a 90 hot end under a log or a hide with a 76-80 cool end

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No need to name call those who don't know any better. To people just starting at and looking for information, there are multiple resources that recommend belly heat or back heat. To someone who is new at the hobby of keeping snakes, this is probably the first and most readily available answer they get when they search online. They don't have prior experience to go off of so it's not really fair to say it's common sense because for a new owner, it's not.

That being said, obviously everyone has their own personal preferences when it comes to heating sources, that has been made clear. As long as it is a safe and regulated heat source, than its up to the OP to decide which preferred method they decide upon.

I've always used belly heat to generate the "Hot Side" of the tank, and used room heat for the warm side. I'll supplement with a heat lamp if the temp drops, but only to help warm the air in the tank for the "cool temp"

Thank you all for the help, advices, i really apreciate it.

Now, i have new pics from Jack, and a couple of questions...

Facts :

1) Jack was used to eat only every 6 weeks
2) Jack skin was everywhere, in small pieces
3) Temp was 50°C and humidity was 30%
4) 1 hide place
5) 1 bulb for heating 150W
6) 1 heat pad

What i did was :

1) Cleaned the entire Terrarium
3) New subtract for floor
3) small pool with bottled water (going this week for a bigger one)
4) 1 hide place with a 60W bulb
5) some moss to keep himidity (going this week for a waterfall & Humidity machine)
6) Decoration is under my gf, so this week we will get alot of new stuff for Jack more hiding places, more brunches, waterfall, etc...

What i achieved until now was, temp stable at 30°C, humidity checked every hour at 60%, and a very, very happy animal as far as i can tell...

Here is Jack in his new home :

http://www.rottinginpeace.com/IMAG0485.jpg

http://www.rottinginpeace.com/IMAG0491.jpg

http://www.rottinginpeace.com/IMAG0494.jpg


Now, i know what you told about hiding, 3 sides covering, etc...but i have a question because its a bit strange for me how Jack act...

As you noticed, my terrarium is open all sides, and i find "strange" or Comic, Jack doesnt hide when we are at home, i mean....we work all day, he is alsleep, but around 8pm he comes out his hiding place and never goes back to it until late or next day.

He is bow very active, always going around the terrarium and even follow us when we walk.. its kinda of strange i guess..

He is way far from aggressive or stressed otherwyze he would hide, right? hes not, i can even hold him....


As always, all advices are welcome...

Sometimes pacing around the enclosure is a sign of stress
Id go with a bulb that doesnt give off light. Hiding balls are the happiest

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And i cant tell but his cool end use a nice tight hight thats not open

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Tight hide sorry*


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just went through the posts here and I too am needing advice on what to do with my new Ball. I have my Monty in a 30 Gal tank right now with a mesh top. I've also just added more new aspen bedding and moved a lot of his hides after I had him out for this weeks' feeding and bath. I'm thinking he's going to be shedding soon cause he's had dry flaky belly scales for a few days now, and I was worried he was dehydrated. I read up that he's probably just starting his shedding cycle, and I'm going to be starting to soak him about 15-30 mins evvery 3 days. His eyes havven't clouded over yet so i think I still have time to get him up to good moisture levels.

I'm heating the tank currently with what was his red night time light because the blue daytime one burned out and I haven't had the money to get new bulbs. Both bulbs are 60W, again, not sure if that is too low or too high, but it does keep his hot side in the 80's. As for it being open, I'll see what I can do about getting some outer covver to hide the walls of his tank, save the front, and see how that goes.

I know the tank has got to have low humidity and i'm curious about how I can help that since it's a mesh top (not sure if the pet store has glass / plastic tops, but this is how they have them in the store). I have the first hide on the warm side of his tank that i try to keep between 80F - 85F (wich, after reading this, makes me think it's too cold and I read wrong information from same pet store). On his cool side of the tank I have it setting at room temp of 75F most all day long. I keep his water dish here, and am thinking of getting him a new dish that's about 4 times that size, like the one the OP has in his tank so that Monty can soak on his own if he wants, not sure if that's nesecary though.

As for humidity, my entire room is probably very dry since my main function of heat is a window air conditioner with a heat option. As I said I keep my room at a comfortable 75-77 all day and night for Monty. But I'm sure the constantly flowing air and his open top tank don't allow any moisture to build. And i've only just started misting his tank because I assumed the humidity was right, but have been misting since I noticed his belly getting flaky. But, I'm scared to mist it too much since I know damp wood rots and makes mold and such. I wanted to knwo if there was some autimatic way to keep his tank at a nice humidity or if a daily misting would be enough. I know they havve automatic humidity drippers and things like that at my pet store, but I think those things are more for frogs and stuff.

Just asking for any advice you guys have on how I can better care for my little Monty and how better I can set his habitat up. if I need to move things etc etc. Monty is only about a year old, I'm just guessing at how long he was at the pet store and all, i've only had him about 3 months... long enough for him to shed 1 time after I got him. He's just a baby and I want to take care of him, and this was where I knew I'd get lots of help. Thanks everyone. :please:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3d...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3...1NoeURtR1VmTXc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3d...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3...UJ1TFBKX19hVnc

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3d...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3...HZ4aHQ3SVowaVE

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Originally Posted by Furry Dragon

just went through the posts here and I too am needing advice on what to do with my new Ball.

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Probably a good idea to make a new thread for your specific issues rather than shanghai the OP's thread here...

Jack in the new updated home...

http://www.redcodedesign.com/500.jpg

http://www.redcodedesign.com/503.jpg

Now, i tried to give a frozen rat to Jack, he refused, im guessing its because we caused him some stress renewing his house...or can be because he only have eaten live rats till today...

How long should i wait till i try again?

If hes eaten live till 18, will be very hard to het him onto frozen id guess

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