Respites Infection. WE NEED HELP

Alright, so I found out about 2 weeks ago my snake had a respitory infection. He was making the popping, congested noises day and night. So I took him to the vet to have it checked and get him on some antibiotics. I found out my whole tank and system was flawed. I've had the snake for 12 years and I always used a heating lamp and a rock to maintain heat in his cage. But the vet told me To switch to a ceramic lamp and a UTH. So I did just that. His tank maintains a heat around 80-90 degrees all day. The humidity levels are right for a ball python, normally around 50-60. I just decided to take the antibiotics they offered. It's ceftazidime. I give him 200mg every 72 hours. After the first 3 he was doing wonderfully. But after the last two....he started the open mouthed breathing again. And it's come back with a vengeance. And during this time I've fed him 4 times because the vet said he was under weight and he's in the process of shedding. He's been having a hard time with it so I've been trying to help while he soaks. I've also been soaking him twice a day. I'm just at a loss because I've done everything by the book since his visit and am not sure why the progress was lost. I'm taking him to the vet tomorrow to get a culture done and see if it's the antibiotics....is there any advice?

I'm a novice, so pleast take this with a grain of salt... Just from my readings, it sounds like the snake was starting to get better... but then with the extra feedings and soaks, maybe it's possible that extra stress on the snake has actually weakened it enough that it can't fight off the infection. It sounds like you've fed him 4 times in less than two weeks, is that correct? I think once every 5 days should be good, maybe with something larger than what he was getting before... but that just depends on the size of your snake, which I don't know. I'd say just keep the humidity up in the tank, no soaks, regular feeding schedule, keep up with the antibiotics.

Make sure you explain all of this to the vet and get their recommendations for feeding/soaks/temperature/humidity during his recovery. I'm sure if they're a reptile vet, they can recommend the ideal environment. Best of luck.

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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy

I'm a novice, so pleast take this with a grain of salt... Just from my readings, it sounds like the snake was starting to get better... but then with the extra feedings and soaks, maybe it's possible that extra stress on the snake has actually weakened it enough that it can't fight off the infection. It sounds like you've fed him 4 times in less than two weeks, is that correct? I think once every 5 days should be good, maybe with something larger than what he was getting before... but that just depends on the size of your snake, which I don't know. I'd say just keep the humidity up in the tank, no soaks, regular feeding schedule, keep up with the antibiotics.

Make sure you explain all of this to the vet and get their recommendations for feeding/soaks/temperature/humidity during his recovery. I'm sure if they're a reptile vet, they can recommend the ideal environment. Best of luck.

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The stress thing could be the case....I didn't think of it that way. As for the soaking I know my vet was very very very! Adamant about that. But the stress factor is good advice. So maybe I shouldn't handle him as much? I will definitely consider that in my visit tomorrow. Thank you very much!

Often times the general antibiotics aren't enough to kick the respiratory infection. Take the snake back to the vet, request a culture to target the specific bacterium causing the infection.

The soaking is BS unless your snake is dehydrated and your just trying to get it to drink, although it can be a way to help remove some of the retained shed. If you have the proper conditions in the cage it isn't necessary. The rest of the setup sounds OK, but if you can put up some photos of the whole enclosure and tell us what your using to measure temps and humidity, we can see if anything needs tweaked. Your vet was right about getting rid of the hot rock at least, and the CHE will save you money on bulb replacements in the long run. Also, with it fighting the RI, I wouldn't recommend trying to pump food. Save that for when it's feeling better. What is the snakes weight, and what and how often were you feeding it before? And are you sure it's a male? Can't really make a suggestion on feeding until I know these things.

Is this a generalized vet? I would consider looking for a vet with a practice more specific to herps.
Really think a culture should have been taken first thing.

I would recommend getting a culture done if the infection came back. The stress could be a factor, I never handled my girl or fed her until she was feeling better when she had her infection, but I had to give her needles for her meds after the vet visit so handling was limited for only that (needles was stressful for both of us, haha). I was told a culture should have been taken first thing as well, the vet just gave me Baytril and needles and the dosage I was to inject her with and showed how to do it. It took about 3 weeks before her nose started clearing up and now she's perfect again.

I never tried this, but apparently this home treatment method has worked really well for some! http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-from-Home-DIY
But I think this is for when you just start to notice the infection coming on, it sounds like your guy has had it for a while and will need the antibiotics.

It looks like you're on the right path now going back to get the culture and antibiotics re-evaluated! :)


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Originally Posted by Smichaeleen

I just decided to take the antibiotics they offered. It's ceftazidime. I give him 200mg every 72 hours. After the first 3 he was doing wonderfully. But after the last two....he started the open mouthed breathing again. And it's come back with a vengeance. And during this time I've fed him 4 times because the vet said he was under weight and he's in the process of shedding. He's been having a hard time with it so I've been trying to help while he soaks. I've also been soaking him twice a day. I'm just at a loss because I've done everything by the book since his visit and am not sure why the progress was lost. I'm taking him to the vet tomorrow to get a culture done and see if it's the antibiotics....is there any advice?

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Ceftazidime (Fortaz) is one of the bigger guns for abx. Most vets push Baytril because it's been around the longest so it's all they know - but, because it's been around so long, a lot of bacteria are resistant to it. I'm actually surprised your vet pushed Fortaz first, as it has a fairly short shelf life and is pricey compared to other meds. Plus, once reconstituted it has to be kept frozen until just before use. A lot of vets don't stock it, they keep Baytril and Naxcel on hand instead.

Fortaz is great but it doesn't get everything. Also, no antibiotic will touch a viral infection.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Also, no antibiotic will touch a viral infection.

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Really? I didn't know this, what happens if it's a viral infection? Treatment?


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Originally Posted by ratchet

Really? I didn't know this, what happens if it's a viral infection? Treatment?


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I know I shoudln't assume... but I'd assume it's the same as with humans... antibiotics don't work against a virus. Over the counter stuff works (in humans) but it pretty much has to run it's course.

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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy

I know I shoudln't assume... but I'd assume it's the same as with humans... antibiotics don't work against a virus. Over the counter stuff works (in humans) but it pretty much has to run it's course.

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This. There are no cures - period - for any viral infections. We either fight them off or we die.

There are vaccines for things like influenza, but if you get it you basically have to hope your immune system clobbers it.

Many vets will still prescribe abx to prevent an opportunistic bacterial infection, such as pneumonia, from taking over while your snake is fighting the viral disease.

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Originally Posted by LittleTreeGuy

I know I shoudln't assume... but I'd assume it's the same as with humans... antibiotics don't work against a virus. Over the counter stuff works (in humans) but it pretty much has to run it's course.

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It is my understanding that OTC medications treat the symptoms, but the virus still has to run its course. Any antibiotics prescribed would be a prophylactic measure against opportunistic bacterial infections.

First thing STOP bathing your snake, bathing snakes which increases stress + improper husbandry is a bad combination, bath even without improper husbandry is still something that you want to avoid.

Second with a RI a culture MUST be done, hence the need of a good herp vet, a good herp vet will do a culture before prescribing any type of antibiotics, not all RI are the same.

Third the usual treatment when diagnosed properly is injectable anti-biotics and should last a month.

Not all vets have reptile experience and that is really key when taking your snake to a vet.

Right now go back to your vet (only if you believe that he will take what you will tell him in consideration) or find another one, get a culture and get the proper treatment, limit stress (that mean no handling except for maintenance and treatment) also remember that feeding right now is not a priority once a week on schedule if he takes it is more than enough, IF the animal is underweight this can be addressed once the animal recovered.

http://s2.postimg.org/hw9mmhfw9/image.jpg

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Originally Posted by Darkbird

The soaking is BS unless your snake is dehydrated and your just trying to get it to drink, although it can be a way to help remove some of the retained shed. If you have the proper conditions in the cage it isn't necessary. The rest of the setup sounds OK, but if you can put up some photos of the whole enclosure and tell us what your using to measure temps and humidity, we can see if anything needs tweaked. Your vet was right about getting rid of the hot rock at least, and the CHE will save you money on bulb replacements in the long run. Also, with it fighting the RI, I wouldn't recommend trying to pump food. Save that for when it's feeling better. What is the snakes weight, and what and how often were you feeding it before? And are you sure it's a male? Can't really make a suggestion on feeding until I know these things.

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This is my tank set up. I have a UTH and the ceramic lamp hooked into a thermostat where I have the sensor under the towel bedding. I have a lamp I turn on during the day for daylight and extra day warmth. I also have a digital and regular thermometer in there. The hygrometer in the piece taped to the side. He has one drinking dish and I also have a more hollow dish in the cool side for him to bath in. He has a hide box in the mid section. That's his tank. And I'm positive he's male. And I will definitely hold on the feeding. But thank you so much. I hope this helps. And before I was feeding him medium mice about every other week. He wouldn't eat every week. His weight was 435 kg with his last visit which was 11-17.

Thank you very much! When I went to the vet they didn't say anything about really handling him or anything, so I just assumed it was okay to be soaking and feeding. But great to know!

Thank you. I will definitely speak with the vet about this. I scheduled an appointment for tomorrow and to get a culture done. So, I'm hoping to get some results later next week on what he'll need to antibiotics. And I'll just let him be for now. So, no touching or handling until he is fully healed.

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Originally Posted by Smichaeleen

This is my tank set up. I have a UTH and the ceramic lamp hooked into a thermostat where I have the sensor under the towel bedding.

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Your t-stat probe is supposed to be outside of the tank, sandwiched between the UTH and the underside of the glass. Otherwise your snake can move the probe off of the heat, pee on it, dump his water, etc. which will cause the probe to send a low-temp reading to the t-stat, and then your UTH overheats.

OK, looking at the pic it looks as if your using a screen top. Your going to want to seal that off with sheet plastic or something, that will allow you to stabilize temps and humidity a bit and stop having the bad sheds. Right now your losing most of it through the screen.

Alright. I try to keep a plastic tub lid under the blanket I have. But you're suggesting a sheet of plastic? And I took Leviathan to the vet and she suggested while the culture was being processed to put him on another antibiotic along with the one he is on. I told her I would rather just finish this antibiotic and wait for the culture. I felt like that would cause more stress on him to be getting shots nearly every day. But I mentioned what you and many others had said about the soaking and she said to just continue with the soakings. I'm wondering if just a more humidified room would be better rather than removing him from his tank. Is it best just to touch him when giving him his treatment? I'm not sure if I should be feeding him regularly either.

I agree with everyone about the culture must done in the case of RI, and at least when the snake is sick need to avoid the stress as possible. The setup isn't the best, if you can, look around a littlebit in the caging forum, especially in the topics with the "screen top" or "aquarium" theme.
Sorry if I misunderstood with my bad English, but that snake what you have since 12 years? If yes, need to look up that medium mouse biweekly feeding schedule too.

So if the snake is 12 years old and 435 grams (I'm assuming? 435 kg would be 959 pounds...) then he would be super under sized. I'm just a little confused by the weight.

Also, you should really remove the duct tape from inside the tank, if he ever gets that stuck to him, peeling it off can removed scales and skin.

Once he his feeling better you can add two or more hides, one on each side of the tank as well as some other source of cover, this will make him less stressed in the long run and less stress = healthier snake. If humidity becomes an issue you could change to cypress mulch bedding or something that hold moisture better than the towels.

Hope the cultures come back soon and he gets back on his feet (belly :confusd:)

I'm really not sure that some of the instruction given in this thread is being understood...might I suggest you read the sticky thread on how to properly set up a glass tank and then return with specific questions.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=201740

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Also I saved this diagram someone had posted a while back that may be useful in this situation. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...fc1398b313.jpg

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