My Hatchling Is Finally Eating, But Is He Emaciated?

Recently got a BP normal male through a local breeder. He came pretty small which i didn't fully realize because he's my first BP. It took awhile to find his feeding habits he missed only 2 weeks of feeding (with a stressed out me trying to study every inch of BP psychology in order to situate his pattern eating). What finally worked was i got my hands on quality bred fuzzy rats which weren't albino and also didn't come soaked in their own urine. He ate with insane enthusiasm. Due to me getting him in the midst of his first shed (Which he still hasn't gotten off even though his eyes have turned back to black for about 1-2 days) i have no idea if he's just emaciated or a lot of the loose skin is from shedding. He's exhibiting non stressed out behavior and he has numerous hides on both the warm and the hot side which for the most part are identical (He prefers the identical ones in which i made). He properly has temperature responses (moving when hot/cold). Only time he exhibited weird behavior was when i left him to his own devices to adjust to his new cage and he stayed out next to his water bowl for awhile but after a couple hours he has completely stopped that behavior ever sense. Sense i got his food agenda on track and his humidity and heating are perfect for him (70% at the moment because of shed) and (80 Fahrenheit because of him digesting). I deeply care for him very much and want the best for him like i assume most of us on here do. Please shed some advice onto the novice snake owner, it would be deeply appreciated. If increased notice is exhibited towards my post i can figure out a method of posting photos of Jörmungandr (My BP). He has plenty of loose skin but i know he is getting proper water (I mist every day and monitor humidity while also giving him fresh cold water every couple of days). He has 2 bowls, 1 to bask in and not drown and one where he can climb up and drink from with ease (I have also witnessed him drinking and basking from the water dishes like a normal ball python in shed). Getting him to eat was a massive stress reliever and also an eye opening experience because i regard my python as if he were my child and would be utterly devastated if anything were to be inflicted upon him due to undo diligence from my own lack of responsibility. Everything seems to be in order but this is almost like you guys analyzing a project to get any quirks out. Thanks in advance to anyone who were to read this wall of text from your typical paranoid first time owner haha.

P.S: I also have geode rocks inside his cage for when he finally decides to rub his shedding skin off.
P.P.S: He is in a 29 qt tub (I know a little on the big side) but the amount of his hides makes the actual open part of the "land" for him to freely crawl and explore, fairly small so it's as if he were in a smaller tub which is why he is acting a lot more secure than if he were only getting 1 hide.

If he's acting normal and eating, I don't think you have much to worry about. How often are you feeding him?

I also have an undersized normal that I think was not fed enough before getting shipped out (66 grams at 2 months old). After getting his husbandry right and realizing he is not willing to take rats yet, he's been eating fine and gaining weight (still on mice). Next step is to try and convert him to rats.

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Originally Posted by treaux

If he's acting normal and eating, I don't think you have much to worry about. How often are you feeding him?

I also have an undersized normal that I think was not fed enough before getting shipped out (66 grams at 2 months old). After getting his husbandry right and realizing he is not willing to take rats yet, he's been eating fine and gaining weight (still on mice). Next step is to try and convert him to rats.

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Man you don't know how much music that is to my ears. I'm just really worried because he has clear rib cage showing when he turns due to excessive loose skin from shedding (which has also been causing considerable stress). I'm feeding him what the breeder told me he did; 1 rat fuzzy every thursday (i moved up from pinkies which the breeder also was doing for the rest of the offspring). Though i might go power-feed him fuzzies every 2 days for 1-2 weeks only to bulk him up decently so i know he is properly nourished. He is frequently urinating his urates (They stink up the whole tub haha) and has defecated twice) so he isn't dehydrated (unless Ball pythons urinate frequently when dehydrated which i doubt). I'm glad he seems to be imprinted on rats because when i was trying Petco mice (Don't recommend them at all; over priced, low quality, just go to your local mice/rat breeder you'll save a ton trust me) and he was acting like a toddler eating vegetables until i showed him a quality non albino rat fuzzy he immediately flicked his tongue and inspected the dangling rat (blow drying the thawing rats seems to be wonderful tip to get him interested). He currently looks like a female clutching eggs with how wide the fuzzy has got him though haha.

How old and have you weighed him?

I wouldn't feed him every 2 days, but every 4-6 is acceptable. If mine seem hungry after 4-5 days, I'll feed them. They are growing like weeds and using it all up so it seems.

If the fuzzies seem too big (and are leaving a huge bulge), you can always try and get smaller ones for safety's sake. I have a local rodent breeder and I ask her for smaller fuzzies (mouse hopper size) and she can get them for me consistently.

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Originally Posted by treaux

How old and have you weighed him?

I wouldn't feed him every 2 days, but every 4-6 is acceptable. If mine seem hungry after 4-5 days, I'll feed them. They are growing like weeds and using it all up so it seems.

If the fuzzies seem too big (and are leaving a huge bulge), you can always try and get smaller ones for safety's sake. I have a local rodent breeder and I ask her for smaller fuzzies (mouse hopper size) and she can get them for me consistently.

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I tried mouse hoppers but my BP wouldn't even interact with them like they were food. It isn't a big bulge where he is struggling to hold it, it's just apparent you know what i mean? He's around 14 days i guess? That's a rough estimate because i got him at around age 10 days. Seems to me the theory of ball pythons imprinting on certain prey animals holds true. That's also wonderful to hear your BP's are growing so fast i hope that is the same way for Jörmungandr!

sounds like you doing well with him and if he contines to eat (which it sounds like he will) everything will be back on track in no time.

1. what is the hot spot temp?
2. the breeder sold the animal to you at 10 days of age?

A scale is a good purchase.
I am a little OCD on keeping track of weights.

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Originally Posted by AllThatInThemGenes

sounds like you doing well with him and if he contines to eat (which it sounds like he will) everything will be back on track in no time.

1. what is the hot spot temp?
2. the breeder sold the animal to you at 10 days of age?

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1.) Around 80 degrees Fahrenheit (My first post has the exact temp)
2.) The breeder didn't specify but he is small like a hatchling (Easily fits in the palm of my hand and has excess room) and the post was around 7 days old (I know the ad's age wasn't exactly his age) but he has got to be a hatchling they have got on proper feeding schedules for at least 1 week, though i'm guessing he was around 10 days old when i got him. He most defiantly isn't a month old because he is way to small for that. They did specify these were hatchlings in the ad though so if their not exactly 10 but around that age when i first got him 2 weeks ago.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...hon-hatchlings he looks to be around the size of this hatchling (Ignore the gross hardened yolk) but he is a lot skinnier than that BP.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

A scale is a good purchase.
I am a little OCD on keeping track of weights.

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I'm only planning on keeping 1 BP at a time at the moment in time so i didn't think i needed a scale. Also if i were to buy a scale friends and family would think it was for something else other than for my ball python :rofl:. Though i am aware of the addictiveness to owning different morphs so i don't know maybe in 2 years ill have a collection :D.

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

1.) Around 80 degrees Fahrenheit (My first post has the exact temp)

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I'm seriously hoping I'm reading this wrong, because your hot spot temp should be closer to 90°, with 80° being a better choice for ambient temperatures.

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

I'm only planning on keeping 1 BP at a time at the moment in time so i didn't think i needed a scale. Also if i were to buy a scale friends and family would think it was for something else other than for my ball python :rofl:. Though i am aware of the addictiveness to owning different morphs so i don't know maybe in 2 years ill have a collection :D.

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Scales are useful for keeping track of weights, not just of your snakes but also of the prey you are offering them. A general rule of thumb is a prey item that is 10-15% of the snakes weight. By using a scale you can keep accurate track of if your snake is gaining weight or losing weight, as well as making sure you are giving your snake a meal that is appropriate for their development level.

Personally, I would keep him to a 5 day feeding schedule. That's the feeding schedule I use for my hatchling. She went on a three week eating strike when she first came home and is now doing fine, pushing 150g and getting ready to move up to the next size prey item.

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Originally Posted by SmoothScales

I'm seriously hoping I'm reading this wrong, because your hot spot temp should be closer to 90°, with 80° being a better choice for ambient temperatures.

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Oh nope you're reading it perfectly correct and nothing to rustle your jimmies over. Actually in Benin right now it's 75°F so if you think 80°F is bad you better start praying for all the native ball pythons in Benin.

P.S: I have my thermostat set to 85 so it fluctuates from 80 to 85 it just on average is normally around the lower 80's.

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Originally Posted by SmoothScales

Scales are useful for keeping track of weights, not just of your snakes but also of the prey you are offering them. A general rule of thumb is a prey item that is 10-15% of the snakes weight. By using a scale you can keep accurate track of if your snake is gaining weight or losing weight, as well as making sure you are giving your snake a meal that is appropriate for their development level.

Personally, I would keep him to a 5 day feeding schedule. That's the feeding schedule I use for my hatchling. She went on a three week eating strike when she first came home and is now doing fine, pushing 150g and getting ready to move up to the next size prey item.

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For these 2 weeks i'll prob put him on a diet similar to yours because he's on his own version of weight watchers. For feeding I just use the widest part of him and check to see if it's around that size or smaller. Glad to hear your BP is eating and staying strong!

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

For feeding I just use the widest part of him and check to see if it's around that size or smaller.

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Also a very good guide for choosing prey items.

I would definitely raise his basking temp.

In Benin, the reported temps being 75F doesn't mean that the snakes don't have higher temps to bask in, nor that they thrive at a lower temp.

For example, I have had days where I check the outdoor temps as about 90F but when I check the actual temp of the ground surface in the sun, it's well over 100F, up to 120F some days. So there can be many different gradients of temperatures in an area.

If he is eating the better quality rodents, then definitely keep him on those. Every 5 days should give him enough time to digest. If the prey is too large(makes a big lump instead of a small lump) then you run a risk of him vomiting it up later, which is really stressful. But if it's a small lump, you should be just right.

Definitely post some pictures. It sounds a bit strange to see ribs on a ball python. They fatten up really quickly though, so no worries!

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Originally Posted by wolfy-hound

I would definitely raise his basking temp.

In Benin, the reported temps being 75F doesn't mean that the snakes don't have higher temps to bask in, nor that they thrive at a lower temp.

For example, I have had days where I check the outdoor temps as about 90F but when I check the actual temp of the ground surface in the sun, it's well over 100F, up to 120F some days. So there can be many different gradients of temperatures in an area.

If he is eating the better quality rodents, then definitely keep him on those. Every 5 days should give him enough time to digest. If the prey is too large(makes a big lump instead of a small lump) then you run a risk of him vomiting it up later, which is really stressful. But if it's a small lump, you should be just right.

Definitely post some pictures. It sounds a bit strange to see ribs on a ball python. They fatten up really quickly though, so no worries!

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Ye, i bought 25 of the quality rats and very glad i made that investment plus it was rather cheap :please:. I do realize that the temperature in Benin isn't the basking temperature for all BP but i do know that their ideal home i.e the termite mound thermally regulates to a perfect 86 degrees ideal for bacteria growth (their food). I was just using some satire to go with why i have my temperature at around 80°F even though it's set to 85°F. I just took some photos (you'll see his egg looking bulge) but i know it isn't to huge for him because he's kept it under for 72 hours though i have no idea when the bulge will go away ahahaha. For the basking temperature he's fine almost every single credible source for BP's have different ideal temperatures for their enclosures but on almost all of their varieties they say that low 90°'s should be the highest and that high 70's should be the lowest. He seems to enjoy his living conditions at the moment and momma always said "What isn't broken don't change it" :D.

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Originally Posted by SmoothScales

Also a very good guide for choosing prey items.

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Yeah no joke, that tip is what made me move up to fuzzies because hatchling BP's neck near the head just looks so small and thin for something the size of a mouse!

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

For the basking temperature he's fine almost every single credible source for BP's have different ideal temperatures for their enclosures but on almost all of their varieties they say that low 90°'s should be the highest and that high 70's should be the lowest. He seems to enjoy his living conditions at the moment and momma always said "What isn't broken don't change it" :D.

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I sure hope you understand that the to thermograde??

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

I sure hope you understand that the to thermograde??

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I'm not at all trying to be rude, but could you rephrase that question because i'm not able to decipher what you're asking. :confusd:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

I sure hope you understand that the to thermograde??

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His ambient temperature is above 75°F at all times even during the night but gets higher during day. His basking spot fluctuates between 86°F and 83°F, i don't get why there is an issue with his basking temperature sense almost all major ball python research have different variety between what the essential BP basking temperature should be.

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

His ambient temperature is above 75°F at all times even during the night but gets higher during day. His basking spot fluctuates between 86°F and 83°F, i don't get why there is an issue with his basking temperature sense almost all major ball python research have different variety between what the essential BP basking temperature should be.

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Most all care sheets for ball pythons I've read (and I've read a lot) show the ideal basking temp to be 88-94 degrees. That makes yours seem a bit low. Considering that heat is used for digestion, it may help with that lump in your snake getting processed to its fullest. I'd recommend upping the thermostat to 90 degrees for the warm side. At night, most snakes seek out a warm burrow or rock that can hold in the heat from the day. I noticed that before I had a UTH, my snake would come out and sit on top of its hide at night because the hide (made of rock) was warmer on the outside than inside.

You seem a bit defensive about your temps, but there are a lot of people on here who are experts with snakes and they have good advice (I'm not an expert, but I try to only state things I know are true).

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

I'm not at all trying to be rude, but could you rephrase that question because i'm not able to decipher what you're asking. :confusd:

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Low 80s on the cool side and up to 95ish on the hot side.
These are the recommended surface temperatures on all care sheets.
Ambient temperatures are a whole different thing.

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Originally Posted by treaux

Most all care sheets for ball pythons I've read (and I've read a lot) show the ideal basking temp to be 88-94 degrees. That makes yours seem a bit low. Considering that heat is used for digestion, it may help with that lump in your snake getting processed to its fullest. I'd recommend upping the thermostat to 90 degrees for the warm side. At night, most snakes seek out a warm burrow or rock that can hold in the heat from the day. I noticed that before I had a UTH, my snake would come out and sit on top of its hide at night because the hide (made of rock) was warmer on the outside than inside.

You seem a bit defensive about your temps, but there are a lot of people on here who are experts with snakes and they have good advice (I'm not an expert, but I try to only state things I know are true).

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It wasn't being defensive, but i could see why you could think that. I just take a cautious approach when it comes to trusting the requirements for my BP to live with random people i don't know (Not that rare for people on the internet troll in order for people to harm their animals or themselves). I've raised his temperature and he hasn't started any abnormal behavior. Though i am still cautious about having his thermostat set to 90°F because it can raise up to 92°F then falls back down. I've also started insulating his tub with a blanket at night just so that the ambient temperature still stays 80°F at night even though he's fine at 75°F +. Thank you for the advice though it has helped my BP enjoy his tub more :) (Well i believe so because he hasn't changed his behavior pattern).

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Originally Posted by treaux

Most all care sheets for ball pythons I've read (and I've read a lot) show the ideal basking temp to be 88-94 degrees. That makes yours seem a bit low. Considering that heat is used for digestion, it may help with that lump in your snake getting processed to its fullest. I'd recommend upping the thermostat to 90 degrees for the warm side. At night, most snakes seek out a warm burrow or rock that can hold in the heat from the day. I noticed that before I had a UTH, my snake would come out and sit on top of its hide at night because the hide (made of rock) was warmer on the outside than inside.

You seem a bit defensive about your temps, but there are a lot of people on here who are experts with snakes and they have good advice (I'm not an expert, but I try to only state things I know are true).

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It wasn't being defensive, but i could see why you could think that. I just take a cautious approach when it comes to trusting the requirements for my BP to live with random people i don't know (Not that rare for people on the internet troll in order for people to harm their animals or themselves). I've raised his temperature and he hasn't started any abnormal behavior. Though i am still cautious about having his thermostat set to 90°F because it can raise up to 92°F then falls back down. I've also started insulating his tub with a blanket at night just so that the ambient temperature still stays 80°F at night even though he's fine at 75°F +. Thank you for the advice though it has helped my BP enjoy his tub more :) (Well i believe so because he hasn't changed his behavior pattern).

Um i don't know why this reply just duplicated itself?!

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

It wasn't being defensive, but i could see why you could think that. I just take a cautious approach when it comes to trusting the requirements for my BP to live with random people i don't know (Not that rare for people on the internet troll in order for people to harm their animals or themselves).

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Then you have been on the wrong forums to start with.
92 degree surface temperature isnt going to burn your snake. 97 degrees isnt going to burn it either but then you are starting to push the limmit there.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Low 80s on the cool side and up to 95ish on the hot side.
These are the recommended surface temperatures on all care sheets.
Ambient temperatures are a whole different thing.

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Oh you were referring to the temperature-gradient! 95°F seems rather on the hot-side for basking temperatures especially for an hatchling. I'd be much more comfortable having his basking temperature in the low 90's. During night time his cool side is 77°F last time i recorded down temps. Is that fine for him? It probably has raised slightly after i raised his basking temperature.

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

His ambient temperature is above 75°F at all times even during the night but gets higher during day. His basking spot fluctuates between 86°F and 83°F, i don't get why there is an issue with his basking temperature sense almost all major ball python research have different variety between what the essential BP basking temperature should be.

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83F is a bit lower than any of the reasonable ranges I've seen.

My personal hotspots are only 87 to 89, but that's still a few degrees higher than your's. A lot of people go up into the low or mid 90's, but that's up to you.

You can try keeping it at 83F to 86F, but you may run into problems with his health including things like regurges that can cause bigger problems if not handled correctly.

I would at least bump it up into the high 80's.

As far as feeding, I wouldn't do every 2 days to help him put on weight. An appropriate sized meal every 5 to 7 days will have him catching up on weight in no time.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Then you have been on the wrong forums to start with.

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You'd be surprised what people do to mess around; raiding forums such as these and making tons of false accounts to mess around. Haha i remember one that 4Chan's /b/ conducted in which they convinced several DIY science forums to make "Crystals" but said "Crystals" released lethal gas.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Then you have been on the wrong forums to start with.

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You'd be surprised what people do to mess around; raiding forums such as these and making tons of false accounts to mess around. Haha i remember one that 4Chan's /b/ conducted in which they convinced several DIY science forums to make "Crystals" but said "Crystals" released lethal gas.

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Originally Posted by 200xth

As far as feeding, I wouldn't do every 2 days to help him put on weight. An appropriate sized meal every 5 to 7 days will have him catching up on weight in no time.

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I was just wondering for a very small temporary feeding schedule (1-2 weeks only). At that time though i just had got my BP to eat and didn't anticipate how long my individual's snake metabolism usually takes (Seems to be 3 days) i was going off information for different hatchlings from other owners. But i think he'll be fine i was just getting real nervous about his weight sense he's my first BP :D.

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

You'd be surprised what people do to mess around; raiding forums such as these and making tons of false accounts to mess around.

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You might be surprised that we enforce our TOS.

Weird how your posts are doubling up.

What's nice is with the temperature gradient, your snake will show you what range it likes. My hotspot is set to 90, but sometimes when the RHPs are working hard top keep the ambient up around 80, the hotspot will get up to 94 or 95 or so. Every time I've seen that I've also seen both my snakes move on over to their cooler hide, where the temp is more around 80, so I know that 95 is more than either of my snakes wants to be on.

It's actually an odd issue I've been trying to solve. If I turn my hotspot temp down from 90, then when the RHPs turn off it will get too cool. Still trying to figure it out.

Anyways, most advice on here is good. If it isn't, it gets called out pretty quick. It's been a great resource for me getting started with BPs!

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Originally Posted by treaux

Weird how your posts are doubling up.

What's nice is with the temperature gradient, your snake will show you what range it likes. My hotspot is set to 90, but sometimes when the RHPs are working hard top keep the ambient up around 80, the hotspot will get up to 94 or 95 or so. Every time I've seen that I've also seen both my snakes move on over to their cooler hide, where the temp is more around 80, so I know that 95 is more than either of my snakes wants to be on.

It's actually an odd issue I've been trying to solve. If I turn my hotspot temp down from 90, then when the RHPs turn off it will get too cool. Still trying to figure it out.

Anyways, most advice on here is good. If it isn't, it gets called out pretty quick. It's been a great resource for me getting started with BPs!

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Thank you, that's useful to know because i think i'm having the exact same issues! I just checked the humidity after i turned my temp up over night to test the 90°F the humidity had dropped to 50% :O (This was drastically different from the original 75% it was at the previous night) but the ambient temperature went to a perfect 80°F. I'm now misting more than twice a day now!

Humidity isn't a hard fix. Larger water bowl, if there's enough space, you could add a second water bowl. If there are more air holes in the lid of your tub than the side, cover a few. If you're using a screen lid, cover a portion of it with foil and place the water bowl under the foil. You could also position the bowl over part of your heat source.

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Originally Posted by SmoothScales

Humidity isn't a hard fix. Larger water bowl, if there's enough space, you could add a second water bowl. If there are more air holes in the lid of your tub than the side, cover a few. If you're using a screen lid, cover a portion of it with foil and place the water bowl under the foil. You could also position the bowl over part of your heat source.

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I already have multiple water dishes, but the biggest one is rather large. Those other tips i might look into but i just misted it when cleaning his tub and now it's 80% :O. He's now chilling on my lap tell his humidity lowers i didn't mean to spray his tank tell 80% humidity haha. Do i have to smooth the foil/get it to somehow stick because he might scratch himself on the foil/move it around?

If he's in a tub, you shouldn't need to mist at all really. Just control the airflow by how many air holes you have in the side. If humidity is getting to low, cover some of them up and it should come up. A tub will naturally have humidity if there is a water dish in it (assuming of course you have a top on the tub).

The foil goes on the outside so it shouldn't be an issue but I always fold the edges in so there's no accidental scratches. Since the snake won't be coming in contact with it you could also tack down the corners with a small piece of tape in the event you can't get it to stay.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by treaux

If he's in a tub, you shouldn't need to mist at all really. Just control the airflow by how many air holes you have in the side. If humidity is getting to low, cover some of them up and it should come up. A tub will naturally have humidity if there is a water dish in it (assuming of course you have a top on the tub).

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How would you cover said holes up? because i have 2 water dishes already inside his tub? :confusd:


BTW what do you use to clean the tub? Disinfectants really needed? or just change his substrate?

What kind of tub are you using? Mine is a Sterilite style 34 quart. I made small holes along the side with a soldering iron for ventilation. If I want to cover some up, I can just put tape over them from the outside and the humidity level will go down. If I need less humidity, I can make more holes. That's the general idea.

I use Natural Chemistry Healthy Habitat Pet Habitat Cleaner and Deodorizer for cleaning. Costs about $20 for a gallon and I just spray and wipe everything down with it.

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Originally Posted by treaux

What kind of tub are you using? Mine is a Sterilite style 34 quart. I made small holes along the side with a soldering iron for ventilation. If I want to cover some up, I can just put tape over them from the outside and the humidity level will go down. If I need less humidity, I can make more holes. That's the general idea.

I use Natural Chemistry Healthy Habitat Pet Habitat Cleaner and Deodorizer for cleaning. Costs about $20 for a gallon and I just spray and wipe everything down with it.

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I actually believe i might have the exact same tub you have haha. Though i have to apologize for previous comments regarding temperature my poor BP Jörmungandr just had liquid diarrhea which i believe is due to the colder temperature :tears:. Though i am glad because i checked on him :please: (he was on top of my bed on a hide while i cleaned his cage) and noticed that all his bulge was towards his but and asked myself "Why is all his bulge towards his tail?" then as if i spoke of the devil his urate began to emerge through his large intestine. I panicked because i had taken all his paper towels out so i pointed his butt like a water gun at the paper towels (I did this all very gently he was in no panic and even relaxed enough to poop with me holding him) and he started pumping out liquid diarrhea. I had read that BP's poop doesn't smell that bad but i mean THAT WAS A LIE i was near gagging when i caught a whiff of this monstrous smell. He must've done a quickie because it was 2 pump n out type deal ;). Now i was paranoid and did a lot of research and i doubt it's parasites because he's pooped fine previously but i do believe it was due to his colder temperatures of being in the low 80°F's :tears:. I feel bad for my incompetence that he had to improperly digest his meal. He does look REMARKABLY better as a whole unit but his neck still is very saggy while the rest of the body now seems fine and lean with muscle. He shouldn't be dehydrated but the diarrhea has me worried. He's had 2 water bowls for about a week so he shouldn't be saggy from being dehydrated but i believe it's because he's in last stages of shed.

P.S: I doubt it was an irritated/frightened response because he was by no means squirming and he was already in the midst of "going" inside his hide on my bed. Plus he did that on his first ever day with me (taking him out of the shipping box and putting him in his cage) and he was frantically squirming like a corn snake then while just now he was already starting to put out his urate and was placid in my hand as i moved him over to his towel substrate to dump his load.

P.P.S: Sorry i wasn't aware swearing was an issue on these forums!

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Originally Posted by Snoop_Dong

I actually believe i might have the exact same tub you have haha. Though i have to apologize for previous comments regarding temperature my poor BP Jörmungandr just had liquid diarrhea which i believe is due to the colder temperature :tears:. Though i am glad because i checked on him :please: (he was on top of my bed on a hide while i cleaned his cage) and noticed that all his bulge was towards his but and asked myself "Why is all his bulge towards his tail?" then as if i spoke of the devil his urate began to emerge through his large intestine. I panicked because i had taken all his paper towels out so i pointed his butt like a water gun at the paper towels (I did this all very gently he was in no panic and even relaxed enough to poop with me holding him) and he started pumping out liquid diarrhea. I had read that BP's poop doesn't smell that bad but i mean THAT WAS A LIE i was near gagging when i caught a whiff of this monstrous smell. He must've done a quickie because it was 2 pump n out type deal ;). Now i was paranoid and did a lot of research and i doubt it's parasites because he's pooped fine previously but i do believe it was due to his colder temperatures of being in the low 80°F's :tears:. I feel bad for my incompetence that he had to improperly digest his meal. He does look REMARKABLY better as a whole unit but his neck still is very saggy while the rest of the body now seems fine and lean with muscle. He shouldn't be dehydrated but the diarrhea has me worried. He's had 2 water bowls for about a week so he shouldn't be saggy from being dehydrated but i believe it's because he's in last stages of shed.

P.S: I doubt it was an irritated/frightened response because he was by no means squirming and he was already in the midst of "going" inside his hide on my bed. Plus he did that on his first ever day with me (taking him out of the shipping box and putting him in his cage) and he was frantically squirming like a corn snake then while just now he was already starting to put out his urate and was placid in my hand as i moved him over to his towel substrate to dump his load.

P.P.S: Sorry i wasn't aware swearing was an issue on these forums!

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Actually i think it might have been caused by the increased in food size. This is his first time moving from pinkies to fuzzies! :snake::snake::snake: Lot of stress relieved i'm going to feed him late at night tonight if he has the runs again i will save a stool sample and drive to the vets. Praying it isn't parasites though because he's eating frozen and thawed and he has already had regular poops.

The larger food size will take longer to digest, and if the temps are too low, that increases the time it takes to digest... both of which give the food plenty of time to rot inside the belly. My guess would be this. Smaller prey, slightly higher temps and he should go back to regular poops.

The horrible smell is key here, because it didn't get properly digested. It's a disgusting odor for sure.

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Originally Posted by wolfy-hound

The larger food size will take longer to digest, and if the temps are too low, that increases the time it takes to digest... both of which give the food plenty of time to rot inside the belly. My guess would be this. Smaller prey, slightly higher temps and he should go back to regular poops.

The horrible smell is key here, because it didn't get properly digested. It's a disgusting odor for sure.

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Yeah i had given him around 5 days to digest his food but i guess he likes the warmer temperatures. The smaller prey though isn't possible he isn't eating mice i can gurantee you on that! I'm not just being cheap, Jörmungandr with mice is like having your toddler eat all his broccoli. Haha he seemed more scared of the mice pinkies than if they were actual food :D. Rat pinkies won't be a big enough meal for him ether but he's big enough to begin eating fuzzies which seem better for a snakes digestive system? (I've read Ball python's have better time keeping poop compact when the animal has fur than vice versa). His poop did smell but i wouldn't describe it as smelling of death (rotting food) more like when you go to chipotle and get E Coli that type of smelly poop :D.