New owner with questions!

So I bought an albino ball only a few months old from what I assume, I've had him for a little over 3 weeks and he has not ate, I've kept contact to a minimum (meaning once since we got him) I've tried frozen and he was not interested at all, I tired a live this week and he was very interested but never struck, it was like he was following the feeder around as if he was hunting it but when they meet face to face he never stuck at it or seemed angered, I don't know if it's the time of year or if something husbandry wise, but his tank is perfect, 10 gal while he is young, repti bark bedding, appropriately sized hides on both sides of tank (one is a little to open for his liking so he don't use it much but it's on the cold side) 80° in the middle 75° cool side 85° hot side with 90° hot spot under his preferred hide. Large water bowl in the middle, dessert glass wrapped all around the tank except for the front (low traffic area, my bedroom) fake silk plant hanging front of the glass blocking his view of us from his hide hole which he climbs on. He is equally active and nonactive, comes out around 6 in the morning and hides from 9 to 3 or 4 p.m. for a few hours every other day. Hides until late at night then comes out for a little bit and goes back to his hide after we go to bed. I am wondering if it's bc he is in a preshed? His eyes aren't red they are a lavender at the moment and have been for 2 weeks, and it seems the scales around the side of his belly are lifting when he moves, (he did act like he couldn't see the live rat, when the rat would move to the other side of the tank cornflake, our snake, would keep looking where the rat had left) if anyone needs pictures of anything please let me know.

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My first thought is that the ball python is probably stressed due to lack of good hides, the temperatures are a bit too low, and/or it might be in shed.

If you only hide is right over the heat, then you ball python has no cool retreat. The dinosaur skull is nice decoration, but I wouldn't consider it a hide. Maybe add another hide or two to see if it makes a difference.

I usually like my enclosures with an ambient closer to 78-80 degrees with a warm area around 92-94.

Albino ball pythons can be difficult to tell when they are in shed. The eyes and the 'faded' look the yellow/orange gets is a good indicator and you will be able to tell it more as time goes on. Make sure it has enough humidity. Maybe add a humid hide.

How are you feeding? Describe the process you have been using. That could be an issue too.

I will Deffinally add another hide on the cool side a.s.a.p. I waiting until a week after I got him to try to feed. I thawed out a frozen fuzzy using hot tap water to thaw, and again to warm to 80° then threw it under the heat lamp until it was around 90° and picked it up using metal kitchen tongs, I tried holding it from the back as getting it close to his face and shaking it a little and he was curious of it flickering his tounge, and after a minute or two he striked at it but missed and I never got him to strike again he began to turn away from it every time I got it near him. I tried another frozen the next week (same thawing method) and tried holding it in the same position and he kept turning from it and I tried dangling it and he was not interested. Yesterday I placed a live inside the box in the cage and he instantly crawled all over the box but when I released the feeder he would follow it around but never strike at it, and if the rat was on top of the rock hide cornflake would go to that side and look around? While the rat ran to the other side as if cornflake did not know that rat had moved to the other side and continued to search there, they even came nose to nose and he did nothing the mouse just got scared and ran.

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What size rat are you feeding?

Based off of the photo, I'd say your little guy needs more clutter and places to hide. The plant is nice but still leaves a LOT of open space. Some small, enclosed places would help him feel more secure. A cheap fix for hides would be some 1$ plastic bowls from the dollar store - cut a hole for an entrance and smooth the edge so they're not sharp. Until he feels secure, he probably wont' eat and the pictures from your other thread look a lot like a hatchling that needs to feed. Personally, I would have the warm side a bit warmer - where are you measuring the temps from? i.e. top of substrate, bottom of substrate, etc.

Size of rats are fuzzies frozen, and a small feeder for live that is the same size as his stomache. I've put alot more things inside his tank to cluster it up till I get some fancier stuff. Hopefully this helps I'll post a pic to make sure this is enough and it's ok. I'm using a heat gun to check Temps at the top of the substrate where he crawls.

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I moved the dinosaur skull back, and placed a large jack Daniel's bottle next to the front of the tank but leaving room for him to crawl all around it and buried it incase he somehow could knock it over, it has no sharp edges I felt all over it. Took a light bulb cardboard box and cut the bottom out and placed it on the cool side for now is that ok? And placed a glass skull inside. I may move it over a bit though inside of right against the side

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I will also be ordering more greenery to hide even more, I'm sure all these new things will stress him out and I won't be able to feed till next week so if I need any more or something tall to thicken up all the extra air space please tell me and I will solve it a.t.m. any ideas to help for his feeding as well for next time I try

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I gotta say, pretty innovative, using stuff you have on hand. Definitely gave me a chuckle. You could maybe add an empty paper towel roll, too. It's good that you're heat gunning the surface; I'd maybe bump the warm side up a few degrees, though. The light bulb box was a good idea. I'd still add a bit more clutter if you can. nightwolfsnow has some pretty good pics of clutter in this thread -> http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...chimaru-Update for examples or ideas.

If you think he could be having issues finding the prey because of a shed that's not come off yet, you could cover part of the top screen with aluminum foil to trap humidity. Make sure your water bowl is under the foil. It should get you a decent bump.

Other than that, I'd give him a couple days so he's not stressed before offering him a meal. I'd hesitate to wait a week just because he looks like he really needs it.

Thank you! Lol I was hoping someone would notice my creativity, I can't lie I was laughing as I was placing everything inside, I'll look around to see what else I can find for the time being. And post pictures to make sure it's enough (I love a second opinion) idk if he is in shed or not from what I've read she'd only lasts a week but I. Eleven albinos have red eyes and hAve been a really pink lavender for 2 weeks, I don't believe his color has faded at all, but on his belly its pinkish under the scales, very visible when he is stretched out. But If he was shedding it would have been over by now. I don't understand.

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I got a fed ex box chopped a bottom out and cut 3 holes in it at different Hights and places, put it in the corner and used the heavy glass skull to weigh it down so he can't knock it over seeing as how he can hang from it and climb on top of it but it takes up alot of space and is almost as tall as the cage, I'm going to place some of his substrate inside of it as well. If I can find anything else that takes up more hight space as well I will try. Do you think I need more?

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I think the open side of the box would be better against the side wall, where it's covered, so he feels more enclosed when he goes in.

As for shedding, looking pink on the belly is one of the signs I usually notice first. Another is a haze over their eyes. I'm not sure what the eye haze looks like on an albino, but all of mine get a blueish look that is pretty easy to pick up on. After that, their colors will look a bit dull. Length of time varies - I've got one girl that can go from a pink belly to full shed in three days, and a boy that his last shed took him more than a week. He was so dull the day before he finally shed, he practically looked hypo (ghost). But it came off all in one piece and he's back to looking his vibrant self again.

I will turn the box I had it like that so I could watch him explore it but yes turning it would make him feel better, I haven't got to experience a shed yet, I know younger snakes shed alot more and I don't have much stuff to go on online since he is albino, but thank you once again for all your help, I will make more forums soon about my little cornflake and will update this once he has eaten if if he rejects another meal, thank you so much!!!

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I got that one bag of vine at a local exotic pet store for like eight dollars and then cut it into segments, worked really well for clutter. I'm pretty sure they have some at Petsmart also. You can see the hatchling hides I made out of plastic disposable bowls from wal-mart in this thread. Have you tried leaving a thawed prey item in over night? Two of my snakes sometimes won't strike the f/t prey no matter what I make it do or hold it still and keep rewarming it, but 95% of the time will eat it at some point before I wake up in the morning.

I did try leaving one over ight on top of his main warm hide and he never once even looked at it, he actually never even came out of his hide allllll night because of it which is unusual for him, he even stayed in it the rest of the day after I had taken it out. I'm going to get those bars with the suction cups on both ends if I can find them online and put them across the top at different Hight levels and I'm ordering a large fake cannabis plant that sections to the side of the glass like my other plant to place somewhere. He Deffinally needs to eat soon and force feeding is the last thing I want to happen and I live in a rural place in Alabama so I doubt there will be many vets close by with snake experience, I've met very very few people who don't think that all snakes are out to murder everything that lives.

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One small piece of advice...That dinosaur skull might look cool but soon enough your BP will outgrow the width of the opening of the skull and could get stuck in there. I think it's fine to keep it in his tank for now since he's young/thin but I'd keep a close eye on his girth. I'd say that when yr snake passes through that skull and you can see it's starting to be a tight fit, I'd remove that thing from his tank.

Stavros

I have thought about that as well, he actually avoids ever going inside of it except for one time when we first brought him home he tried it out for a hide then never went back in, he does crawl all over the top of it a good bit though, but yes for safety reasons I will remove it once he gets bigger around than any of the holes on it.

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Originally Posted by Albinoballpython

I did try leaving one over ight on top of his main warm hide and he never once even looked at it, he actually never even came out of his hide allllll night because of it which is unusual for him, he even stayed in it the rest of the day after I had taken it out. I'm going to get those bars with the suction cups on both ends if I can find them online and put them across the top at different Hight levels and I'm ordering a large fake cannabis plant that sections to the side of the glass like my other plant to place somewhere. He Deffinally needs to eat soon and force feeding is the last thing I want to happen and I live in a rural place in Alabama so I doubt there will be many vets close by with snake experience, I've met very very few people who don't think that all snakes are out to murder everything that lives.

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I got those at the exotic pet store also, Fluker's is the brand. Have you tried a little live rat pinky? If he can't see because he's in shed the pinky should be easier for him to hunt since it can't really move. I'm from the country too so I know what you mean with all the "the only good snake is a dead snake" people. Maybe try looking on Facebook for a local reptile group who could point you in the right direction of an expert.

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Originally Posted by MrStavros

One small piece of advice...That dinosaur skull might look cool but soon enough your BP will outgrow the width of the opening of the skull and could get stuck in there. I think it's fine to keep it in his tank for now since he's young/thin but I'd keep a close eye on his girth. I'd say that when yr snake passes through that skull and you can see it's starting to be a tight fit, I'd remove that thing from his tank.

Stavros

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Yeah I had to take my skull out of Orochimaru's tank once he got around 200 grams.

I tried a live small feeder that was appropriately sized and he did act like he couldn't see, ex. He was very interested in it but if the raT was on the left side of the tank cornflake would go to the left side and then there rat would go to the right side and cornflake would continue to look around the left side like he didn't know he had left after looking right at him. They came nose to nose at one point and cornflake never even attempted to strike. I'm going to try another frozen in a few days once cornflake is used to all his new scenery. He really really needs to eat

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And yes the good Ole "the only good snake is a dead snake" thing, that fits my area perfectly. Me and my fiance are huge animal lovers she has and ways wanted a albino so I got cornflake, I'm after a axanthic clown and I'll be happy but I guess I'ma have to breed to get it bc I can't find anyone that will sell one. We love animals so much after cornflake wouldn't eat the live feeder my fiance made it a home and named it cornbread so I guess we are gonna have to keep the feeder as a pet to. I'm no longer taking her with me if I have to go buy a live again lol.

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Lol! Someone else on here ended up with a pet feeder because they're snake wouldn't eat it also. I always felt bad when I was feeding live, hope my newest snake will switch to frozen just as fast. Axanthics are my favorite! I know Jdconstriction was working on axanthic clowns a few years ago. He might be hitting visuals soon. I would check with him.

Thank you! I will defiantly try him out axanthics are my all time favorites, I could have any exanthic morph and be the happiest snake owner ever they are just so pretty! But out of all I've seen the axanthic clown is my #1 idc how much it cost to get a youngling or if I have to breed to get one. It will Deff be a "shut up and take my money" moment lol. Oh and I just ordered a pair of those flunker bamboo bars like you have, my python seems to be a big climber like yours so I figured it would hog up a little air space and give him something neat to climb on. He has been all over that box with the holes I just made since I put it in there so I know he will love those bamboo bars

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I could also be happy with a firefly axanthic to.

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You need two one entrance/exit hides, one on the warm end and one the cool end. You should not really be able to see your BP, while it is in the hides.

I did have the "gym" box hide I made non private for my own selfish reasons since behind it was a very good cold side hide that is completely covered but I have turns it like shown below so now he has 3 hides and the tank is alot more cluttered with soon to be replaced stuff until I can get him to eat, he spent all night exploringwithout trying to escape so hopefully this will help

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Well nvm I guess I didn't get a pic of it after it was turns but I did turn it for privacy

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I would also like an axanthic clown hah. I have been thinking about pulling the trigger on a breeding pair of anxanthics. Almost positive that will be my next breeding project. I really like your set up especially with the new additions. There’s a lot of people that think balls dont benefit from having stuff to climb on but when they young they really seem to like it so i try and provide little things. The bars will be awesome! Ill be saying a little prayer that he eats for you soon. Keep us posted

Try feeding him once he is settled in his hide. I have one who's underweight and really skinny and it took a lot to entice him to eat. I finally tried dangling a live hopper mouse outside his hide while he was in it. Eventually he made a couple defensive strikes after a few minutes and I saw him click into feeding mode. I then let the mouse go and the snake quickly came out of his hide and snatched it. I was so happy he finally ate (he only weighed 66 grams at 2 months).

Thank you so much, I'm an artist and a perfectionist and try to cater to whatever I feel my pets may need, my little cornflake is always climbing on stuff. I was worried if I got him anything tall he would just rub his nose against the screen trying to escape like he sometimes attempts but he has been all over his new addition and has not once bothered with the screen, I can't wait to get the bamboo sticks in and watch him climb all around. I'm going to get some stuff to replace the cardboard peices but I think I'm going to leave the jack Daniel's bottle lol. I like it. I know I want to try breeding so I'm Deff going to be picking up a clown and axanthic to pair together I will not stop until I have achieved my axanthic clown they are just so dang beautiful.

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And thank you for your prayers! I will keep everyone posted, will be attempting another feeding Wednesday or thursday.

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My fiance is so proud of her "saved" feeder rat which the day before yesterday was supposed to be cornflakes meal and is now warm in his new home and has been renamed cornbread the survivor lmao!!!

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It's a little hard to tell size in the picture, but how are your picking prey items?

There are generally 2 rules of thumb I've seen people use. The first being a prey item approximately the same circumference as your snake. The second being a prey item 10-15% the weight of your snake. (Snake Weight x .15 [or .1]= Prey Weight)

It was just a thought, as if the food item being offered is to big, the snake will also refuse to eat.

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Originally Posted by Albinoballpython

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Originally Posted by Albinoballpython

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that's a really cool quick fix! i like how you could view into the hide.

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Originally Posted by nightwolfsnow

Lol! Someone else on here ended up with a pet feeder because they're snake wouldn't eat it also. I always felt bad when I was feeding live, hope my newest snake will switch to frozen just as fast. Axanthics are my favorite! I know Jdconstriction was working on axanthic clowns a few years ago. He might be hitting visuals soon. I would check with him.

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I ordered them the night before yesterday and they already came in!!!! I just put them on and he is asleep but I'll post a pic for you when he come out and climbs on them! http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...746b0ebe24.jpg

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Originally Posted by Ax01

that's a really cool quick fix! i like how you could view into the hide.

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Thank you ax01! I litterally grab whatever I could think of that would work and still look decent and disinfected and threw it together.

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Originally Posted by Albinoballpython

I ordered them the night before yesterday and they already came in!!!! I just put them on and he is asleep but I'll post a pic for you when he come out and climbs on them! http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...746b0ebe24.jpg

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Nice! I forgot to mention, I had to move mine to the opposite side of the heat lamp because they would get too hot. But that depends on how close they are to the top also. Just make sure you check the temps with an infrared thermometer to be sure.

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Originally Posted by Albinoballpython

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My fiance is so proud of her "saved" feeder rat which the day before yesterday was supposed to be cornflakes meal and is now warm in his new home and has been renamed cornbread the survivor lmao!!!

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Omg the exact same thing happened to me. Our Lucky Rat refused to be eaten and through substrate right in to Ginger's face, which frightened her off. She wouldn't go near Lucky, so she's now another pet in our home. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...146eb7aa0d.jpg


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Pamela and GINGER, my wonderful BP

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