Rack Idea...Thoughts?

I've reached that point where I am thinking about long term housing for my growing collection. At the moment I have snakes in 3 different rooms. It turns out that one of my lodge brothers has access to sheet PVC and runs a CNC machine shop. He offered to build me a setup for cost much to the delight of my wife. She does not want me to do tubs, but rather more of a display type enclosure. So this is the plan I came up with today after sitting down with photoshop for a bit. It's all drawn out to scale.

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...rsion_copy.jpg

I think the longer units could use 3 hinges and two latches, but aside from that I'm pretty happy. T-stats will be housed in the storage area. Heating will either be Heat Tape or zoo med heat cord. 15w LED lights go on the ceiling for each unit and are on a timer. All the wiring will be in channels CNC milled into the top and bottom of each unit so it's all hidden. The units are modular and will be resting on 1/2 PVC rounds to keep them locked in place. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Dave

I would go with heat tape over cord.

Make the shelves in the storage area adjustable.

I would put the storage area up top so it's at eye level, and the two levels of 48" wide enclosures on the bottom, potentially with a removable center divider so you could make 96" enclosures. Think retics...

So more like this.

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...ion_2_copy.jpg

I like the idea of a more central location for the gear. Shorter runs with wires and all. Really like where you head is at on the 96 inch run on the bottom. I am not sure my wife will ever go for it, but it's at least future proofed that way. Be good for a nice Boa too. Thanks!

EDIT TO ADD: Since this whole thing is modular in nature, I could always use the slot marked storage for a nice ETB or ATB too. Be a great display spot.

Dave

I like the second mock up.

You will want three hinges on the longer doors.

Do you know what the cost is on something like that? It would look great.

I just have to pay for the materials, and he gets a ridiculous rate on that. I figured the longer doors need 3 hinges, and two latches/locks. The doors are acrylic so not too heavy, but still. What's nice is that they are going to be cut and recessed into the front so the whole unit is flush.

Dave

that will be a sweet set-up! the mock-up sketch makes it look like an "entertainment system" you have against the wall in a living room.

i haven't been able to find PVC sheets at the local hardware store. what is the weight of PVC compared to say 1/2" or 3/4" sheet of wood? all the new snake threads in the pix forum (and now your rack thread) has got me riled up to get more. ;)

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Originally Posted by Ax01

that will be a sweet set-up! the mock-up sketch makes it look like an "entertainment system" you have against the wall in a living room.

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That was kind of my thought. I was going to put it in my home office, as that's where I spend my day working, but my wife said it might freak out clients. I argue that it'll educate them. :gj: It might have to go in the living room though. I can't imagine the office without a snake in it. I have two in there currently.

Dave

I have a heat tape question now. This is the proposed bottom at this point from an exterior view.

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...ottom_view.jpg

We are milling out a 5mm cavity to hold the heating elements and associated wires. The 48 inch unit will actually have left and right sides where the cavity extends to the next unit so I can use 1 piece of heat tape just under 8 feet. Is that the best way to do it? And, do I use 12" tape or will 6" work if I am running the length of the unit? I figure I can have cold hides off the tape near the front of each unit so the pythons can thermoregulate.

Thanks in advance,

Dave

Depends how big the heat tape is. I wouldn't run the heat tape all the way along the bottom/ back. Instead I think a piece underneath one side would be better

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So things are progressing and we managed to cut some materials today. This is a look at the 48 inch unit without the back and front just to get a feel of the size. I'm starting to think that it might be a bit big for a BP, but with proper clutter and hides I think they'll be OK. Thoughts?

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file..._1703_copy.jpg

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file..._1704_copy.jpg

The screws that are in this unit are temporary. The final unit will have countersunk flatheads to stay flush with the surfaces. I was hoping to avoid screws on the front and showing a cut edge, but I think it's one or the other. I'll be opting for the edge and have the back and front cut and mounted to the inside of the current 4 walls....unless I can think of a clever solution later. It'll be a more solid piece that way. The back will be like that for sure. Still undecided on the front. Smooth with seams, or one piece with screws? I suppose with white screws it would not matter. Opinions welcome!

Dave

I think it'll be fine for a BP as long as you clutter it up. I have my male in a 36 inch enclosure with just 2 hides and a water bowl and haven't had any problems.

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16" tall is really not necessary for balls, you could literally cut that in half and they'd be perfectly happy. My buddies down at Predator Reptile in Mesa have some that are about 8" tall total, 12-14" deep and with widths from 12-36" that they keep the balls in and they seem extremely happy in them. Here's a picture of their set-ups. Top ones house any number of different things, they keep just about everything, it's the ones below that top row that I refer to. Bigger balls will want more footprint, but don't need the height at all.

http://predatorsreptile.com/_images/store_right.png

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Originally Posted by WolfeManRob

16" tall is really not necessary for balls, you could literally cut that in half and they'd be perfectly happy. My buddies down at Predator Reptile in Mesa have some that are about 8" tall total, 12-14" deep and with widths from 12-36" that they keep the balls in and they seem extremely happy in them. Here's a picture of their set-ups. Top ones house any number of different things, they keep just about everything, it's the ones below that top row that I refer to. Bigger balls will want more footprint, but don't need the height at all.

http://predatorsreptile.com/_images/store_right.png

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I would prefer the height for accessibility reasons. I know mine are 12 inches high and even that that height it's a bit of a pain to get snakes (or rats) out of the enclosure without them dragging half of the bedding out onto the carpet. On paper towels it's a non issue. I could see 8 inches being tough since you don't have much space to lift the snake off the bedding to take out. Just my particular bit of insight. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10...a25776c231.jpg

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The 16 inch height is actually an older plan. It's shorter now, Just a tad over 12 on the inside measurement. Partially because you are right about BPs not needing the height, but mainly because I didn't want to use a stool to get into the top unit. The door is about 10 inches tall with a lip to keep the bedding in when I move an animal in and out.

Dave

i would have gone with black PVC, but your plans still look great Dave!

how many gallons or quarts is in a 48x12x24? those are other ways herpers seem to measure BP enclosures. you could keep it a 48in and clutter it up. i think it really depends on what you plan to put into this size enclosure. a juvenile BP, adults, breeder animals? Boas?

i see that you already have dividers in your plan for other 48in units. at the very least, you could make more of these if you're still concerned.

can't wait to see the final product. :)

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Originally Posted by Ax01

i would have gone with black PVC, but your plans still look great Dave!

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The trim in my house is white so I matched that and I didn't want to suck the light out of the office. A massive black piece would just dominate the room from an visual point. Not that an 8x6 wall of snakes won't, but you get what I mean.

Dave