ATB Care

hello im gettting a Amazon tree Boa tomorrow and i wuold like some help on taking care of these guys the one im buying he is so cool hes not head shy or anything why can't you handle these snakes that much. thanks Aaron

I really like nippy idk why but i just like patterns like that(ex.bredls carpet python)

In our Snake Care section we have a caresheet for these guys. That should give you a basic idea of the husbandry aspects. As far as handling them goes, they are snakes that are easily stressed so handling them often is not advised. They are prone to regurge and death if they are stressed too much.

alright so say i want to get my girl to be used to being handled how much is to much. When i got her out today to look at her she was rapped around my arm then sometimes stretched out but did not try to bight or hiss or even was head shy. Im concerned on the tank i have a 20 gallon long will that work and do you think 130 is to much for this girl?

Quote:

---

I really like nippy idk why but i just like patterns like that(ex.bredls carpet python)

---

sorry to go off topic here but i couldve sworn that i put this on the post w/atb pics???

Yeah you did,lol there were three pics, nippy snippy and dippy.

Thats really wierd i wonder how it got here.

alright i need to know what do i need i have a 20 gallon long tank no caresheet says they need any light or special lighting. I need a picture or something to help me with this. Also is there any good cages already made that i can buy for when he gets to an adult size thanks. Aaron

also is a garden phase worth 130 bucks it's at a petstore and i have never seen one around here before

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ATB Caresheet

There are many different methods in which you can keep ATB’s. When yearlings, something as simple as a 10-gallon aquarium turned on end (with most of the screen covered), or a sterilite container does the job quite nicely. When full grown, you will need a minimum of a 2'x2'x2' enclosure. When choosing your enclosure, be sure to keep in mind the high humidity and ventilation needed for these snakes. Wooden enclosures are less than satisfactory for precisely this reason. High humidity will warp uncovered wood. Melamine is somewhat better, but if not sealed properly, will bubble and warp as well. Sterilite containers work well for ATB's. They are easily cleaned, hold humidity and heat well, and are less expensive than other enclosures. Many experienced arboreal keepers prefer to use high impact plastic (such as Vision) and acrylic enclosures. They hold humidity very well, are attractive and easily cleaned. The final point you need to consider when choosing an enclosure is accessibility. These snakes are a bit more ornery than most and they do bite. You will want to have room enough to dodge their long sharp teeth. If building your own enclosure, consider building a tray in the bottom. This makes it much easier to change substrate without disturbing the snake.

Whichever route you decide to take, remember that these are arboreal snakes. They will spend the majority of the time on perches. ATB's like to have three points of their bodies touching their perch at all times. It is best to cross branches or use forked branches in their enclosures.

---

I will add that you will need a water bowl and it might not be a bad idea to at least provide one hide. ATB's are known to spend a limited amount time on the ground. The perches for an ATB are the key. I've heard of people using everything from PVC pipe ( properly cleaned ) to Tinker-Toys ( properly cleaned and sealed ).

I'm not too sure what you mean when you say you "need a picture of something to help me with this." What is this you are speaking of? As for adult caging, our Web Links section has good links to custom cage manufacturers. Check out their websites, see which you like and which one will be big enough for your ATB.

When it comes to arboreals, you want the cage to be taller than it is long. I've heard of people turning tanks on end and using them to house their arboreals. You might want to consider that as long as you can make sure it won't tip over.

As for the price, I've seen garden phases at herp shows for much less than $130, but I doubt you'll find one for much less than that at a pet store.

I dont mean to step on toes but a taller than long cage is a common misconception.. sure height is important alot of people like the taller than long cages for display but a more lengthly cage actually is better in the respect that it gives a greater area for a gradient and thermoregulation and when they cruise the cage at night it gives them a larger area to stretch out in, typically arboreals will pick the highest perch in an enclosure .. regardless if they are comfortable or not and provideing the extra width and larger gradient will keep that from becoming an issue
A gradient can be established in a tall narrow cage but is much harder to accomplish

I stand corrected. Having never kept arboreals myself, I'm perfectly willing to defer to Robert's response.

Quote:

---

A gradient can be established in a tall narrow cage but is much harder to accomplish

---

depends on how you create your gradient.
If you warm from the bottom of the enclosure it gets cooler as you go up creating a vertical gradient. This seems to work well with Amazons as they hang out all over the place, not always at the top. They spend time on the ground too. GTB and ETBs dont hang out on the ground and ussually are on the highest perch, but Ive found this isnt the case with ATB's.

I think you would be good whichever way you set it up as long as it has places to perch and does have a proper gradient.

I have had several and still own one . they seem to hang out where they are most comfotable and secure . Mine usually stayed in the highest perch..keep in mind they dont like straight perches and need close forked branches or a simulated version

i don't keep atb's but my chondros spend 99% of their time on the highest perch and they go back and forth from the hot end to the cool one.

vaughn

so they do regulate their tempture of there bodies so it's alright to have a cooler end and a spot light on one end?

all snakes thermoregulate .. their temperature requirements and/or preferences may vary day to day just be sure and have proper perches and provide some sort of security in each area IE fake or live plants to provide some cover