Building a cage... am I doing it right?

Hey,
I am in the process of planning out a cage build. I am looking to build a T8 style cage out of 1/2 inch thick PVC and plexi glass for the door. I wanted to make sure that the size of 32Long x 16Wide x14Tall would be a good lifetime cage for a BP (its the best foot print for the area I have for it). I am looking to make a stackable 4 cage display tower kind of thing. I already have a local place that I can get 8x4 sheets of 1/2 inch pvc and have it cut to my request. I was would also like to know if you guys think that heat tape will be strong enough to heat through 1/2 inch pvc. I am going with 1/2 inch rather then 1/4 inch because my house is always cool to cold 65-68 and I figured the extra mass would give me better insulation, make it more ridged and also give me a little more room for error too. If not I can make a cut out on the bottom with a plexi glass insert so I can heat through plexi rather than the 1/2 in pvc. I was thinking of just buying a t8 but I can build 2 of mine for substantially less than the cost of one T8. And I am a project kinda guy and halfway decent craftsman.


I was also kicking around the idea of heating it with CHE bulb inside the cage with a protective cage around the light??????


Let ma know what you guys think and any advice or sugestions would be appreciated.

Yes





























Sorry but seriously would like to see pictures it sounds cool

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Citrus

Yes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

LOL There where a few different questions care to elaborate which one is the yes for lol:D

I will deff post some pictures of the build and finished product.

Your dimensions are good, as they align closely with the size of the tubs most commonly used for adult BPs. As far as the other building aspects, I'll have to defer to some of the other more DIY-savy folks here.

I would go with a RHP over a CHE

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frostysBP

I would go with a RHP over a CHE

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

---

I am hoping to go with heat tape rather than either of them but I don't know if its going to be able to heat the whole thing to the proper temps but I like it I will keep the RHP in mind

I'm just saying I would go RHP if flexwatt dose not cut it

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

Your better off with a rhp, the heat tape it self wont help with your ambients in the tank, your either gonna have to raise the rooms temps, use a second heat source or just use a rhp by its selfs and solve all your problems.... heat tape only heats the area its in contact with and a very small area above it

If I were you I would definitely go with the RHP and a thermostat. I never liked the look or build of an enclosure with flexwatt on the exterior, and you definitely do not want exposed flexwatt on the inside. RHPs are the way to go for this type of project. Just hook that sucker up and keep your ambients at 80 deg and you are golden.

Ok I was just looking up RPH do you think a 40 watt will cover it or should I go with 80 watt. The only reason I was thinking CHE was the cost but I guess buy once cry once

I would go through www.reptilebasics.com. Call them and they can guide you to the right RHP. It varies for different situations, room temps etc.

Ok will do thanks. but does the rest of the build sound right to you guys?

Yup how thick of plexi do u plan on using?

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

So you are planning on building multiple independent cages that will then stack on top of one another? You will definitely need to seal the edges with some aquarium grade silicone. What type of door setup will you be using? Usually getting hinges to articulate properly is the hardest part of these DIY deals.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frostysBP

Yup how thick of plexi do u plan on using?

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

---

I am thinking of using 1/4 inch plexi for the door.

Good idea any thinner who'll warp after time. U might wanna look into doing sliding glass doors. It actually is cheaper the buying 1/4 plexi. And imo looks better and more efficient. Its the way I build mine

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by I BALL OUT

I am thinking of using 1/4 inch plexi for the door.

---

Sliding or hinged?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JoshSloane

So you are planning on building multiple independent cages that will then stack on top of one another? You will definitely need to seal the edges with some aquarium grade silicone. What type of door setup will you be using? Usually getting hinges to articulate properly is the hardest part of these DIY deals.

---

Yes stackable individual cages. I was thinking of using the aquarium silicone too because I have a bunch of it from my koi pond build leftover. As far as the door I don't like the look of the 2 pieces of glass that have the overlap in the middle. I want one solid piece of clear glass with no seam or overlap. That leaves me with 2 ways that I can think of to work the door traditional pull down (hinged) door or full sliding out door like I have on the cage I have now that I built. If I am missing a way or you can think of another way that might be better I am open for any and all sugestions. I am basically trying to look at all of the stackable cages and even non stackable ones and incorporate the best of the qualities of them in one cage and try to negate any of the bad qualities that I can.

So the issue I have had with hinges in the past is that you likely need to router out a section of the pvc for the flat part of the hinge to lay in, to allow functional articulation with the glass. I was working with melamine when I used to build cages, but this step always threw a wrench into the issue. Go look at one of your door hinges, and see how it sits flush with the wood and you will get what I am saying.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JoshSloane

So the issue I have had with hinges in the past is that you likely need to router out a section of the pvc for the flat part of the hinge to lay in, to allow functional articulation with the glass. I was working with melamine when I used to build cages, but this step always threw a wrench into the issue. Go look at one of your door hinges, and see how it sits flush with the wood and you will get what I am saying.

---

This right here is why I did sliding. Not to mention feeding the retics I can't get nailed as easy

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

Yeah, that's also something to consider. Having the ability to only open a small portion of the door, rather than the whole door opening at once, can make your life a lot easier.

I see what you mean I might have to look around on the net to see if I can get a 1/4 inch off set hinge. Maybe a cabinet door one or something like that. I was hoping to install it directly to the plexi if not I might have to build a frame for it and attach the hinge to that. Or I could possibly use a 1/4 inch spacer on the hinge itself to offset it the same thickness of the plexi and that would give it ventilation too?????? but I am prob going to have to recess the hinge like you said. Thanks for the heads up Im going to have to brainstome this one.

If you can get the spacers to workout correctly it can be done. I shoved some washers in there to space it out and it worked 'ok' but didn't look that professional. You can rent a router at home depot and router it out yourself. I ended up doing that with later cages I made. I'm pretty sure this issue right here, along with previously mentioned ones, are why most custom pro built cages come with the overlapping glass doors. You can always go to a hardware store and ask someone for ideas. I have gotten some of the best advice from retired carpenters working the floor at home depot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frostysBP

This right here is why I did sliding. Not to mention feeding the retics I can't get nailed as easy

Sent from my LGL15G using Tapatalk

---

I like the sliding door too I have it on my current viv and its awesome and much easier to do to. My problem is that where the tower will be situated there is a couch next to it and a wall on the other side so the top cages will be no prob to open but the bottom wont be able to be opened and I want it to be all the same. It wouldn't be a prob if I went with the 2 piece glass set up but I want one solid window with out the center line where they overlap.

your a braver man then me Id be feeding a retic from the end of a 6 foot pole maybe 10 foot lol but I can deff see where having the ability to restrict the opening would help with one of them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JoshSloane

If you can get the spacers to workout correctly it can be done. I shoved some washers in there to space it out and it worked 'ok' but didn't look that professional. You can rent a router at home depot and router it out yourself. I ended up doing that with later cages I made. I'm pretty sure this issue right here, along with previously mentioned ones, are why most custom pro built cages come with the overlapping glass doors. You can always go to a hardware store and ask someone for ideas. I have gotten some of the best advice from retired carpenters working the floor at home depot.

---

I found some 1/4 inch offset hinges for cabinets for like 2 bucks online and they look like they might work but good idea about going to the store to get some hands on them to see of they will work and some advice from one of the old timers at Home depot.