Heating help!

So first things first, I cannot get my ambient temperature over 70f. Glass tank, UTH, CHE, and the top has been tin foiled. The thermometer works, it's only off by two degrees. I just cannot get the temps up!

Secondly, my UTH has been getting to some pretty high temps lately. It's on a rheostat, but even on the lowest setting it still gets up to 120f! I did not have this problem a few months ago, could it be that my rheostat isn't working?

Please help me out in the comments, this is extremely frustrating!


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It absolutely could be that your rheostat isn't working. At 120 degrees, as you know, you're putting your BP in pretty severe danger - even short term. I'd say it's time to invest in quality thermostat to put your mind at ease a bit more (not to mention for the safety of your BP in there).

The problem with glass tanks is it suck both heat and moisture right out of the enclosure. The tin foil tends help keep moisture in not heat unfortunately. I have never had any luck with tanks. Plastic storage totes is honestly (IMO) the best way to house snakes that need higher temps and humidity. The problem with heat pads is they do not raise ambient temperatures well. They do well for belly heat though so I always recommend them. You may need to get a heat lamp to up the ambient temperatures. The problem with this is lamps tend to suck humidity right out of the cages so you will have to spray more often. As for the thermostat, I agree that it is broken. I like to use herpstats but the cheapest available is around $100 and it really is not worth it if you only have one snake. I began using lamp dimmer switches from Home Depot. $10 for it, much better for a single snake then a $100 herpstat. They work very well. Mine are still being used for my corn snake and boa. I know a plastic tote is not pretty, but it is better for keeping in heat and humidity. Less need to spray and you will not have to get a heat lamp. But this is my opinion and my experience. Some of my friends have no issues using tanks with the added heat lamp and spraying, so it is up to how you want to care for your ball python.

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Originally Posted by lunasjy

I like to use herpstats but the cheapest available is around $100 and it really is not worth it if you only have one snake. I began using lamp dimmer switches from Home Depot. $10 for it, much better for a single snake then a $100 herpstat. They work very well.

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How much is a vet bill going to cost when that $10 dimmer switch doesn't work properly? How much does a single snake cost?

I realize that some people feel that spending $100 on a single piece of equipment may be a little much, and $100 means different things to different people, but honestly how do you put a price (that low) on the safety of your animals? :confusd:

They even have thermostats at petco these days for around 40 bucks. Much better to have something actively controlling your temperatures rather than just limiting power output. Rheostats will not account for fluctuations of room temperature.

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

How much is a vet bill going to cost when that $10 dimmer switch doesn't work properly? How much does a single snake cost?

I realize that some people feel that spending $100 on a single piece of equipment may be a little much, and $100 means different things to different people, but honestly how do you put a price (that low) on the safety of your animals? :confusd:

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Many people use them. I actually got the idea from a guy off this forum site. I have been using them for a really long time. They do an awesome job. And it is funny how the OP uses an actual reptile thermostat that wont lessen the temperature past 120F yet my 1 and a half year old dimmer switches has my corn snake`s temp at 85F and my boas at 90F. And until I got a herpstat, the dimmers kept my ball pythons cages at 92F. I only moved to a herpstat because I have three snake racks heat and only one outlet.

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Originally Posted by lunasjy

Many people use them. I actually got the idea from a guy off this forum site. I have been using them for a really long time. They do an awesome job. And it is funny how the OP uses an actual reptile thermostat that wont lessen the temperature past 120F yet my 1 and a half year old dimmer switches has my corn snake`s temp at 85F and my boas at 90F. And until I got a herpstat, the dimmers kept my ball pythons cages at 92F. I only moved to a herpstat because I have three snake racks heat and only one outlet.

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OP clearly stated they are using a Rheostat (dimmer switch).

Rheostat is meant for reptiles. I use an actual dimmer switch. They sell them at Home Depot but you can buy them from actual reptile places as well.

Here is one actually sold from a reptile caging store.

http://cornelsworld.com/product/slide-dimmer-switch/

And here it is again at Home Depot... it is the exact same thing just cheaper at the hardware store.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/cred...n-white/971428

It may not be a Rheostat (which is a dimmer in a sense) but they last and work.

Definition of the term rheostat

"adjustable resistor used in applications that require the adjustment of current or the varying of resistance in an electric circuit."

Rheostats are in no way specific to reptiles.

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Originally Posted by lunasjy

Rheostat is meant for reptiles.

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False. Rheostat's are used to adjust the current in a circuit (dimming lights, controlling the speed of motors, etc) - they are certainly not unique to the reptile hobby. Typing "rheostat" into the search function on the Home Depot site yields several results - none of which are intended for use in the reptile hobby.

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Originally Posted by lunasjy

I use an actual dimmer switch. [...] It may not be a Rheostat (which is a dimmer in a sense) but they last and work.

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The OP clearly stated that the method that he is using currently (a rheostat) is not working properly. It also happens to be a very similar method that you are advocating. While you may not have had problems previously, the OP is having problems with this method right now and is looking for alternative recommendations.

It really is safer to just use a thermostat versus a dimmer switch. I have used dimmer switches in the past and I had a hell of a time keeping temperatures steady. The OP really is better off just spending a little money to get a thermostat. Why risk harming your animal when there are cheaper thermostats available to get the job done?

Sorry if I missed this;

Have you tried insulating the back, sides and bottom of the tank? I have used both polystyrene and cork tiles in the past.

The easiest way to check a rheostat is still a lightbulb - you can see instantly if it is working. ;)

Thanks for the replies! I have a big thick foam background on the back. I think I will pick up a new dimmer today, and then order a thermostat online.

Lunasjy, I already have a heat lamp but it's still not helping enough.


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Well it seems you may have located the root of your respiratory problem. 70 degrees is too cool to keep a ball python healthy over a period of time. If your CHE is not doing the job correctly, buy a more powerful one and attach it to a dimmer switch until you have an appropriate ambient temperature. Any treatment regimen you take will prove ineffective until you fix this issue.

Poor snake, doesn't he already have an RI too? Just go to any grow shop or nursery and buy a Hydrofarm. They aren't a Herpstat but they work fine for UTHs and are about $35. And I cant see how you cant get ambients above 70F with even a CHE. Are you using a 60 watt or something? Bump it up to a 100 watt or 150 watt with a lamp dimmer inline to control it.

The Che is 150 watt and is on a dimmer. Maybe my Thermometer is broken too? I got a dimmer and will order the hydro farm.


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Oh, and his RI is starting to clear up. He's in shed and is eating well so that's good right?


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What kind of thermometer are you using? It's been awhile, but do I remember you have one of those tankside thermometers that petstores sell? (If I'm thinking of someone else, sorry, it's been awhile) If so, then you need a different type; one of the digital ones should work fine. Those tankside thermometers are terrible.

Well, I have 3 different thermometers. Temp gun, zoomed(or exoterra?) digital with probe, and an analog thermometer(yes, it is crap, but for 5$ why not?)


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Well the light dimmer is doing the trick for now, trying to find the time to order a thermostat and some new thermometers. Can anyone suggest any to buy(make sure it is Canadian version please)?

On a good note, Marshall shed well tonight (I got to watch!) it came off in about 3 pieces, but came off with ease. I think he was kind of squishing it lol. His RI has calmed down majorly, I held him for a while today and I only heard one squeak the entire time and no more bubbles! Have a good night everyone:)


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Originally Posted by gameonpython

Well the light dimmer is doing the trick for now, trying to find the time to order a thermostat and some new thermometers. Can anyone suggest any to buy(make sure it is Canadian version please)?

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Good to hear that you got the dimmer working again. :)

Cornelsworld sells both Herpstat thermostats (http://cornelsworld.com/product-category/thermostats/) and thermometers (http://cornelsworld.com/product-cate...perature-guns/).

Well its good that you got it cleared up. I would still watch close as with all the whacked out temps you have had, I am literally surprised that his RI cleared up by itself like that. Your thermometers have to be off. I mean you are using a 150 watt CHE in what size tank in what temp room? I mean I use a 100 watt CHE in both my 40 gallon breeders in a 75F room and I have them both dimmed down halfway to achieve 87F hot side and 82F cool side. I don't use any insulation, I just use the cardboard covered in tin foil over the whole screen top with a 1" bigger hole than the dome size cut into it on 1 side. And I don't even use UTHs. I'm not in Canada but I just use the acurite thermometers with the probe wire on all my cages and when compared to my temp gun, the thermometers are only about 1F higher in temp so not too far off. They are only like $12 here and can measure warm side, cool side and give you an idea of humidity. Best of all, they are cheap and if they poop out, just throw em away and buy a new one.

After a lot of comparing the digital thermometer to my other thermometers, I found that it was 10 degrees off. So the ambient temp is actually around 80. I kinda figured something wasn't right, I mean I have a CHE, a heat pad, covered top, foam back, and to put my hand In the cage feels warm.

On a side note, where can I get F10sc in Canada?


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I suggest you purchase a new digital thermometer to be sure. Temp guns do not measure ambient temp and analog are generally not reliable.

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Originally Posted by tbowman

I suggest you purchase a new digital thermometer to be sure. Temp guns do not measure ambient temp and analog are generally not reliable.

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Yup, working on it:) can you suggest any reliable thermometers?


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I use the acurite thermo/hygro combo. It's about $12 on Amazon. It measures two temps plus the humidity. I keep about 2 in stock at all times so when one craps out I have another. I had one last me about 5 years.

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Originally Posted by BenzieBox

I use the acurite thermo/hygro combo. It's about $12 on Amazon. It measures two temps plus the humidity. I keep about 2 in stock at all times so when one craps out I have another. I had one last me about 5 years.

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I've looked at this one! Can I get it in Canada?


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