60 tub V-18 build started..... progression thread

Having built 5- 6 XPVC racks and an incubator, I was looking to improve the rack builds by recessing the heat tape. I'm tired of taping the edges of the heat tape down and having the tubs always slide over the heat tape. Talking to Reptile Basics they recommended to recess a slot in the shelf for the heat tape and using their double sided tape to secure the heat tape in place.

I dropped off some excess pieces of XPVC to Piedmont today and bought 2 sheets of XPVC to have them cut me 21 pieces at 19" x 22.27" for my 3 wide, 20 tall V18 build. Then I went to Harbor Freight a bought a $60 1.5 HP plunge router with a 20% off coupon and a 3/4" flush router bit. I had some scraps still laying around and decided to route the channel in some scrap for 3" heat tape.

Here we go:

1.5 HP Plunge router:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...pse2q305wc.jpg

Came with an edge guide:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...pssjcaczzn.jpg

5 minutes of work:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...pslf49gs0q.jpg

Now... doing 20 pieces will take an hour or so, but I think the time and money will be well spent.

Stay tuned for the build ;)

Looking forward to seeing the build. Would love to try a similar rack just on a smaller scale one day

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Originally Posted by BumbleB

Looking forward to seeing the build. Would love to try a similar rack just on a smaller scale one day

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Nothing wrong with smaller.

I'm just trying to utilize all the vertical space I can. All my V-18 racks currently have between 2-5ft of "wasted" space above them. This build should have just enough room the clear the light bulbs in the "pit".... lol!!

Favorited and following!

Picked up the XPVC all cut today.

(21)- 19" x 22.75" for 20 shelves and the top
(4)- 6" x 96" for the side supports. Will be cut to proper height after all shelves are mounted.
(2)- 4" x 96" for back supports. Will be cut to proper height after all shelves are mounted.
(1)- 2" x 96" to be used as a back stop for center V18 tub.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...pshmscomi2.jpg

Crude home made router table with some aluminum angle pieces mounted as guides:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...psy13uwmxs.jpg

Shot of 1st pass and 2nd pass:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps7iwbzyxw.jpg

Bit for channel to keep heat tape in place:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps5q3f33nr.jpg

Heat tape in channel. Once I finish cutting the complete 2.5" width I will cut the same slot on the other side to keep the 3" heat tape in place.:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps9wqxgc0o.jpg

Looking good! I might have to try this for my next rack!

So you made the slot for the electric part of the heat tape, but how are you going to get the heat tape into the slot and get the double sided tape in between?

I'm skipping the double sided tape. Just feeding the heat tape through the slot and that will hold it in place.

20 shelves routed and channeled for heat tape.http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...b2800ee503.jpg

Wow that looks great

Can't wait to see this completed!

All 20 shelves routed and gaps routed on the ends to thread the heat tape through the rack. Base built and the first shelf mounted. Should be a standing rack by the end of the week.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...db4d66231e.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...0c8c8fc1c5.jpg

Looks great. Where did you find that router bit? I have been looking for something like that for my racks. I have just been using a dovetail bit. It works but could be better


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Was everything purchased from harbor freight?

Also did you setup the rail rig because the cut edges of the xpvc are rough, or could this be done with just the PVC?

Very nice. Following!

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Originally Posted by Tsanford

Was everything purchased from harbor freight?

Also did you setup the rail rig because the cut edges of the xpvc are rough, or could this be done with just the PVC?

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Router and a set of 3 flat surface cut bits for $80 at Hrabor Freight. The bit for the edge channels to hold the heat tape in place is probably $20 if you can find one. My dad has a ton of milling tools in his box.

I just used the 1" angle stock for something stable for the guide to follow. With the 3/4"' bit I used it took 4 passes to make the main channel. One pass on each side for the heat tape channel was plenty.

Look at grizzly industrial they have a ton of stuff for wood and you can request a free catalog

I said it would be standing by the end of the week. It's standing, but no where's near completed.

QC inspector says it's looking pretty good, but he's laying down on the job half the time, so who knows!!

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...psyiufpbjy.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps0im2fycf.jpg

Why did you make the base out of wood? Is that to put casters on it?

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Originally Posted by Tsanford

Why did you make the base out of wood? Is that to put casters on it?

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Yep. I think it gives a really solid base. Just like the incubator :)

The casters are the last thing to be put on. I hate chasing the project all over the shop.... lol!!

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps5e1d4c5f.jpg

Looks great so far, but I have a few questions.

With PVC do you have to/are you pre drilling the holes? Dealing with cabinets it is ideal but I have never worked with PVC before.

What screws/hardware are you using to secure the rack together? Are these things obtainable via Home Depot and such?

Do the same ideas behind screwing and gluing for a stronger product apply with PVC? If so what type of glue?

Not sure if you put a price list of materials/tools yet but could you do that? Id like to get an idea if its worth the time and money to build my own or if I should just buy a pre built. I have experience building furniture just not sure if its worth it to build or not.

Lastly, do you put the rack on casters because it is heavy to move around or do you actually have reasons needed for being able to roll it?

Again it is looking fantastic, keep up the great work. Ill be following this thread for sure ;)

Greg

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Originally Posted by EasiGregory

Looks great so far, but I have a few questions.

With PVC do you have to/are you pre drilling the holes? Dealing with cabinets it is ideal but I have never worked with PVC before.

What screws/hardware are you using to secure the rack together? Are these things obtainable via Home Depot and such?

Do the same ideas behind screwing and gluing for a stronger product apply with PVC? If so what type of glue?

Not sure if you put a price list of materials/tools yet but could you do that? Id like to get an idea if its worth the time and money to build my own or if I should just buy a pre built. I have experience building furniture just not sure if its worth it to build or not.

Lastly, do you put the rack on casters because it is heavy to move around or do you actually have reasons needed for being able to roll it?

Again it is looking fantastic, keep up the great work. Ill be following this thread for sure ;)

Greg

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I pre-drill all holes.

XPVC cut to size= $198
50ft of 3" heat tape= $105
PT 2" x 4" frame= $5
Screws (coated #6 decking screws 1 5/8" long)= $10
2" casters= $16
60 V-18 tubs= $271

That's the total soup to nuts cost= $605. That's $10.08 per tub final cost. Commercial racks are are selling for $20+ per tub plus shipping or picking up at a show.

I am not including the router cost in the build, because that will be used for many more projects. I've never used any glue, but simple PVC pipe glue would work. Wheels are for convenience of moving for cleaning in the shop.

Half way done mounting the shelves this morning:

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...psbudxgvys.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...psoiy2hrwu.jpg

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...psdm6vb6ii.jpg

Shelves done. Heat tape next...http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...54514357e7.jpg

Looking good!

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Originally Posted by coreydelong

Shelves done. Heat tape next...

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With a 20 high rack and 50ft of Flexwatt, do you expect to see much difference in temps between bottom to top?

Nope ;)

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Originally Posted by coreydelong

Nope ;)

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Good. :gj:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

With a 20 high rack and 50ft of Flexwatt, do you expect to see much difference in temps between bottom to top?

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You gonna use a herp 2 and have a probe up top and down low?

Also you must have a step ladder to access up top?

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A HerpStat 1 will be more than sufficient controlling a whopping 200w at full load (50ft at 4 watts per ft). One sensor and spot checking will suffice.