Boa help!!!!

hey guys i got my first boa today its a hypo boa roughly 3 ft feeding on rat pups i was told at the moment i have the temp on thermostat and its 30 in the day max and 20 at night minimum the temp at the moment is 25.5 C and i was wondering what temp the boa needs as ppl tell me diffrent things also how long shall i wait to handle him as i cant wait but dont wanna stress him out i guess i can pick him up like a normal snake? i only ask as when i filled his water up he hissed thanks
snakelover9

thanks

He does not need a night drop. Try to keep his belly heat around 31-32*C, cool side at 25-26*C.

Otherwise, he's young and needs time to settle in. He's not feeling secure yet. Give him a few days before feeding, and at least two weeks before handling other than the minimum you have to do to change his water and clean up his messes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

He does not need a night drop. Try to keep his belly heat around 31-32*C, cool side at 25-26*C.

Otherwise, he's young and needs time to settle in. He's not feeling secure yet. Give him a few days before feeding, and at least two weeks before handling other than the minimum you have to do to change his water and clean up his messes.

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am of to bed soon but i have the tank hooked up to a digitel thermostat an kt needs a night temp and day temp is what am saying so it normoly runs 30 c at 8am till 8pm then of all night also will he be ok in a 3 foot tank any advice is needed atm

Do you have a thermometer (to read temps) for both ends of the tank? You will need a way to monitor both the cool end temp and the "hot spot" over the UTH. A infrared temp gun comes in handy for this, if you can get one (sometimes hardware stores sell them or you can buy online).

I use a thermometer like this one and it will read the hotspot temp with a probe and if you put the unit itself on the cool end, it reads that temp too (as well as humidity).

What sort of heat source are you using (bulbs, UTH,)? When I kept my snakes in glass tanks, I had to use a UTH (hooked up to a thermostat) for the hotspot and a heat lamp (red bulb) to raise the ambient temps... Glass tanks aren't well insulated so the heat bulb was needed to keep the air warm enough. If you aren't using a UTH, I recommend these. They don't get super hot, last a long time, and work great when hooked up to a thermostat. I have used this thermostat before and it works well and I've also used a herpstat, which is great if you want to spend the extra money.

He should be fine in a 3 foot tank for now, but boas generally get 5 - 6 feet or more as adults, so have plans for a larger cage down the road (4' x 2' x 18" high or similar).

Also, one other bit of info. With boas, you want to feed a food item that won't leave a "lump" in them and you also feed less often than with ball pythons. I feed my 3.5 foot male once every 2 weeks, but he is on small rats. You feed young boas (under one year I believe) once a week. You will want to see that the boa keeps a "loaf" shape, like a loaf of bread. If he starts to get round (like a ball python) he is too fat.

Good luck with your little guy!

EDIT: I also can't recommend this book enough. It'll tell you everything you'd want to know about boas and more. It has great pics too. Much superior to other care books on the market.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

Do you have a thermometer (to read temps) for both ends of the tank? You will need a way to monitor both the cool end temp and the "hot spot" over the UTH. A infrared temp gun comes in handy for this, if you can get one (sometimes hardware stores sell them or you can buy online).

I use a thermometer like this one and it will read the hotspot temp with a probe and if you put the unit itself on the cool end, it reads that temp too (as well as humidity).

What sort of heat source are you using (bulbs, UTH,)? When I kept my snakes in glass tanks, I had to use a UTH (hooked up to a thermostat) for the hotspot and a heat lamp (red bulb) to raise the ambient temps... Glass tanks aren't well insulated so the heat bulb was needed to keep the air warm enough. If you aren't using a UTH, I recommend these. They don't get super hot, last a long time, and work great when hooked up to a thermostat. I have used this thermostat before and it works well and I've also used a herpstat, which is great if you want to spend the extra money.

He should be fine in a 3 foot tank for now, but boas generally get 5 - 6 feet or more as adults, so have plans for a larger cage down the road (4' x 2' x 18" high or similar).

Also, one other bit of info. With boas, you want to feed a food item that won't leave a "lump" in them and you also feed less often than with ball pythons. I feed my 3.5 foot male once every 2 weeks, but he is on small rats. You feed young boas (under one year I believe) once a week. You will want to see that the boa keeps a "loaf" shape, like a loaf of bread. If he starts to get round (like a ball python) he is too fat.

Good luck with your little guy!

EDIT: I also can't recommend this book enough. It'll tell you everything you'd want to know about boas and more. It has great pics too. Much superior to other care books on the market.

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he is in a tank with a lightbulb on 12 hours a day i guess that is ok the temp atm is 30.4 an drops to about 25 at night ivhave to probs but dont know how to measure both sides as am useing habistat thermostat Edit the warm side i think is 27.0 an cold 21.5 is this ok as the bulb is at 30.4 he is alos hissing alot how should i pick him up or will he bite he also does not use the hide i got him its like he cant see it and does being bite hurt i have pucs if u can tell me how to post without url on ipad

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btw i have ben told he is 1 year or so and looks at least 3-4 foot

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snakelover9

he is in a tank with a lightbulb on 12 hours a day i guess that is ok the temp atm is 30.4 an drops to about 25 at night ivhave to probs but dont know how to measure both sides as am useing habistat thermostat Edit the warm side i think is 27.0 an cold 21.5 is this ok as the bulb is at 30.4 he is alos hissing alot how should i pick him up or will he bite he also does not use the hide i got him its like he cant see it and does being bite hurt i have pucs if u can tell me how to post without url on ipad

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btw i have ben told he is 1 year or so and looks at least 3-4 foot

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21*C cold 27*C "warm" isn't warm enough for your boa to digest his meals properly. What other heat source does he have besides the light?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

21*C cold 27*C "warm" isn't warm enough for your boa to digest his meals properly. What other heat source does he have besides the light?

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what do you suggest i do the thermostat is set so it does not get higher then 30 C in morning and lower then 20 at night what shall i put it up to as some heat will be lost from the bulb and he has nothing but a bulb when can i handle him

A picture of your setup would help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

A picture of your setup would help.

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if you can send me a email for you out of here in om or explaim to me how to attach without a Url i can do it i prefer email i bumped the temp up to 33 27 hopefully that gets warm side an cold side ok

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snakelover9

if you can send me a email for you out of here in om or explaim to me how to attach without a Url i can do it i prefer email i bumped the temp up to 33 27 hopefully that gets warm side an cold side ok

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Post the picture here and you'll get more help.

Your boa will do well with some very simple husbandry fixes.

As stated a young boa will need some decent ambient temps. 80-83F. I'd make sure you are 90-93 for your warm side. All of these temps can be adjusted, and some snakes do better a little cooler and some a bit warmer. There is a margin and you can safely experiment.

I do use a night drop, but I didn't when he was very young.

The book Artgecko recommended is as good as it gets. Also anything on the web written by Gus Rentfro is excellent. He is friends with the author of that book.

Pictures and additional information about your setup will only get you more responses.

Nobody will think less of you if you are doing a few things wrong, or need a little help.

The easiest way to post pics is to save them to a site like photobucket. After you save them to that site, it will give you an image code (img) in the form of a link. You then post the link it gives you straight into the text of your post and it will show up as a picture.

I am not quite sure how your light fixture / thermostat setup works if it gives you a range of temperatures. Does the thermostat turn the light on / off when it gets too cool / hot? Or does it dim the light when it gets too hot? Are any of these your thermostat?

If you can get a red bulb or CHE for the lamp, you can run it all day/night without creating light the boa can see... so you could keep the temps warm at night also.

Honestly, I think the best possible setup for a boa is to have a UTH hooked up to a thermostat (so that there is warm belly heat to help digest food better) and then also have a light / CHE if needed to raise air temps... You might want to look into getting a UTH to hook up to your current thermostat and then buy a dimmer for your light, change out the bulb for a CHE / red bulb, and play with the dimmer switch until it gives you the right temperatures.

I would suggest a separate thermometer (a thermometer reads temps, but does not control them like a thermostat) so that you can monitor temperatures.

This is a thread that shows how to setup a glass tank for a ball python. i know you have a boa, but how you setup the thermometers, thermostat probe, UTH, lamp, etc. will be the same.

With hides, most snakes prefer ones that are dark, secure, and fit them securely (don't have a lot of extra space or large openings). Usually, you want a hide on the cool and warm sides of the tank (see the BP setup thread link I posted). I use black plastic hides like the ones in the thread above and got mine from here. If your boa is 3 feet long, you would need a "medium" or possibly a "large" sized one. I have also seen people make hides out of correctly sized cardboard boxes, used plastic food tubs, and even dog bowls.

Here's a pic of my BCA 3.5 foot male jax's in tub. It is a similar setup, just in a plastic tub, not a tank. The heat lamp is centered above on a stand (the black lump on the cord is a built in dimmer I adjust), the UTH is under the left side of the tub (you can see the foil tape holding it down)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSCN2702.jpg
And just for kicks, a pic of Jax. He was closer to 3 feet in this photo.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...agecropped.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

The easiest way to post pics is to save them to a site like photobucket. After you save them to that site, it will give you an image code (img) in the form of a link. You then post the link it gives you straight into the text of your post and it will show up as a picture.

I am not quite sure how your light fixture / thermostat setup works if it gives you a range of temperatures. Does the thermostat turn the light on / off when it gets too cool / hot? Or does it dim the light when it gets too hot? Are any of these your thermostat?

If you can get a red bulb or CHE for the lamp, you can run it all day/night without creating light the boa can see... so you could keep the temps warm at night also.

Honestly, I think the best possible setup for a boa is to have a UTH hooked up to a thermostat (so that there is warm belly heat to help digest food better) and then also have a light / CHE if needed to raise air temps... You might want to look into getting a UTH to hook up to your current thermostat and then buy a dimmer for your light, change out the bulb for a CHE / red bulb, and play with the dimmer switch until it gives you the right temperatures.

I would suggest a separate thermometer (a thermometer reads temps, but does not control them like a thermostat) so that you can monitor temperatures.

This is a thread that shows how to setup a glass tank for a ball python. i know you have a boa, but how you setup the thermometers, thermostat probe, UTH, lamp, etc. will be the same.

With hides, most snakes prefer ones that are dark, secure, and fit them securely (don't have a lot of extra space or large openings). Usually, you want a hide on the cool and warm sides of the tank (see the BP setup thread link I posted). I use black plastic hides like the ones in the thread above and got mine from here. If your boa is 3 feet long, you would need a "medium" or possibly a "large" sized one. I have also seen people make hides out of correctly sized cardboard boxes, used plastic food tubs, and even dog bowls.

Here's a pic of my BCA 3.5 foot male jax's in tub. It is a similar setup, just in a plastic tub, not a tank. The heat lamp is centered above on a stand (the black lump on the cord is a built in dimmer I adjust), the UTH is under the left side of the tub (you can see the foil tape holding it down)
hey thanks for all your help and being awkward i will try pics later as its getting late i have the dimming thermostat by haibistat on your link thats 90$ and it asks for a daytime and night temp for the light so the light comes on at 8am gets to temp and still runs with less power so it does not go to much over the setup has a thermometer that says it was at 27C warm side today so i might try raise the thermostat up to 33 for the morning and 27 or 26 C at night minimum i can try photos later
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSCN2702.jpg
And just for kicks, a pic of Jax. He was closer to 3 feet in this photo.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...agecropped.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

The easiest way to post pics is to save them to a site like photobucket. After you save them to that site, it will give you an image code (img) in the form of a link. You then post the link it gives you straight into the text of your post and it will show up as a picture.

I am not quite sure how your light fixture / thermostat setup works if it gives you a range of temperatures. Does the thermostat turn the light on / off when it gets too cool / hot? Or does it dim the light when it gets too hot? Are any of these your thermostat?

If you can get a red bulb or CHE for the lamp, you can run it all day/night without creating light the boa can see... so you could keep the temps warm at night also.

Honestly, I think the best possible setup for a boa is to have a UTH hooked up to a thermostat (so that there is warm belly heat to help digest food better) and then also have a light / CHE if needed to raise air temps... You might want to look into getting a UTH to hook up to your current thermostat and then buy a dimmer for your light, change out the bulb for a CHE / red bulb, and play with the dimmer switch until it gives you the right temperatures.

I would suggest a separate thermometer (a thermometer reads temps, but does not control them like a thermostat) so that you can monitor temperatures.

This is a thread that shows how to setup a glass tank for a ball python. i know you have a boa, but how you setup the thermometers, thermostat probe, UTH, lamp, etc. will be the same.

With hides, most snakes prefer ones that are dark, secure, and fit them securely (don't have a lot of extra space or large openings). Usually, you want a hide on the cool and warm sides of the tank (see the BP setup thread link I posted). I use black plastic hides like the ones in the thread above and got mine from here. If your boa is 3 feet long, you would need a "medium" or possibly a "large" sized one. I have also seen people make hides out of correctly sized cardboard boxes, used plastic food tubs, and even dog bowls.

Here's a pic of my BCA 3.5 foot male jax's in tub. It is a similar setup, just in a plastic tub, not a tank. The heat lamp is centered above on a stand (the black lump on the cord is a built in dimmer I adjust), the UTH is under the left side of the tub (you can see the foil tape holding it down)



hey thanks for all your help and being awkward i will try pics later as its getting late i have the dimming thermostat by haibistat on your link thats 90$ and it asks for a daytime and night temp for the light so the light comes on at 8am gets to temp and still runs with less power so it does not go to much over the setup has a thermometer that says it was at 27C warm side today so i might try raise the thermostat up to 33 for the morning and 27 or 26 C at night minimum i can try photos later



http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/DSCN2702.jpg
And just for kicks, a pic of Jax. He was closer to 3 feet in this photo.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...agecropped.jpg

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Not to change the subject but holy balls that's a nice BCA! Is that from Tom McCarthy?

O/P, we'll get you squared away try the Photobucket route.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gio

Not to change the subject but holy balls that's a nice BCA! Is that from Tom McCarthy?

O/P, we'll get you squared away try the Photobucket route.

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[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg4_zps858cbaf4.jpg.html

[/COLOR][COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg2_zpsc8725e08.jpg.html

[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg6_zps4a0774d0.jpg.html

[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)] http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/sn...cf014.jpg.html
Am of to bed plz say that works guys i tryed quickly[/COLOR]

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[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg4_zps858cbaf4.jpg.html[/COLOR][COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg2_zpsc8725e08.jpg.html[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg6_zps4a0774d0.jpg.html[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)] http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg5_zpsacfcf014.jpg.html[/COLOR]

I found the link in your text.... I'm not sure what went wrong, but I'll repost your pics below. When you try to post the IMG code, left click it (if you're on a computer) and it'll copy automatically, then "paste" it straight into the post (no "link"s or anything required) and it should come through.
http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...psacfcf014.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...pse6cfee04.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ab2401f.jpg

It's a nice looking setup. I can see the thermometer on the top right (I think) and a thermostat that is attached to the top left of the tank. Is the heat bulb inside the glass tank (behind the wooden lid I assume)? You would probably still be able to attach a UTH to the bottom of the glass tank (like in the link I posted).

To Gio- Yes, he is from Tom McCarthy. I think Tom is raising up some of this guy's siblings (*nicer siblings*) to breed down the road. This was the last male he had and I still can't believe that I was able to get him as my first boa. I don't want to hijack the OP's thread, but I'll post a better, more recent, pic of Jax below.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...110248_634.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

I found the link in your text.... I'm not sure what went wrong, but I'll repost your pics below. When you try to post the IMG code, left click it (if you're on a computer) and it'll copy automatically, then "paste" it straight into the post (no "link"s or anything required) and it should come through.
http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...psacfcf014.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...pse6cfee04.jpg

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ab2401f.jpg

It's a nice looking setup. I can see the thermometer on the top right (I think) and a thermostat that is attached to the top left of the tank. Is the heat bulb inside the glass tank (behind the wooden lid I assume)? You would probably still be able to attach a UTH to the bottom of the glass tank (like in the link I posted).

To Gio- Yes, he is from Tom McCarthy. I think Tom is raising up some of this guy's siblings (*nicer siblings*) to breed down the road. This was the last male he had and I still can't believe that I was able to get him as my first boa. I don't want to hijack the OP's thread, but I'll post a better, more recent, pic of Jax below.

hey man its no prob there the proof my thermostat says 27 warm an 21 cold shall i bump temp up a few i will happyly show u my hypo boa when i get time how long till i can handle him an how can i stop him hissing







http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...110248_634.jpg

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also ant hse a undertank heater as the tank is on wood itself an it burnt my cabinet last time :3 the bulb is in the glass tank and you can see it if you slide doors open its on a timer an runs 8am-8pm

If the bulb is on a timer, what is hooked up to the thermostat? Was the old under tank heater hooked up to a thermostat? It may have malfunctioned if it burnt your wooden stand... They should not run that hot, especially hooked up to a thermostat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

If the bulb is on a timer, what is hooked up to the thermostat? Was the old under tank heater hooked up to a thermostat? It may have malfunctioned if it burnt your wooden stand... They should not run that hot, especially hooked up to a thermostat.

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it left a small butn mark on the wooden cabbinet you see in the pic but was on a thermostat when the snake before my boa tat sadly passed away this week was in a faunierium shall i bump the boa temps up to 35 c morning 33 at night if thats better when can i handle him and should i put him back if he hisses and bites amd do i need a snake hook i wanna be the best boa owner i can

I think bumping the temps up would be a good idea... That said, just monitor them closely to make sure that it doesn't raise higher than that.

If you just got your boa, he will need time to settle in (at least 2 weeks is the standard). For that time, only
when necessary (i.e. go in the cage to clean, change water, etc. only).

I personally have a hook (you can see it in front of the tub in the pic of Jax's setup). You might want to get a hook, but you can use a coat hanger for some of the functions of a hook. I would start hook training him now, which should help avoid you getting bit due to food response and it can also help cage defensive behavior some too.

To "hook train" you teach the snake to associate being "stroked" with an inanimate object (like a hook, paper towel tube, coat hanger, etc.) with being picked up. You stroke him each time before you clean his water, move him, etc... any time your hands go in the tank when food isn't involved. With a hook, you can also gently lift him off the ground, which may help you get your hands under him and avoid getting bit. When you feed, you don't use the hook, so the snake learns hook= no food and goes out of "feeding mode".
Here's a good video where the guy demonstrates hook training.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

I think bumping the temps up would be a good idea... That said, just monitor them closely to make sure that it doesn't raise higher than that.

If you just got your boa, he will need time to settle in (at least 2 weeks is the standard). For that time, only
when necessary (i.e. go in the cage to clean, change water, etc. only).

I personally have a hook (you can see it in front of the tub in the pic of Jax's setup). You might want to get a hook, but you can use a coat hanger for some of the functions of a hook. I would start hook training him now, which should help avoid you getting bit due to food response and it can also help cage defensive behavior some too.

To "hook train" you teach the snake to associate being "stroked" with an inanimate object (like a hook, paper towel tube, coat hanger, etc.) with being picked up. You stroke him each time before you clean his water, move him, etc... any time your hands go in the tank when food isn't involved. With a hook, you can also gently lift him off the ground, which may help you get your hands under him and avoid getting bit. When you feed, you don't use the hook, so the snake learns hook= no food and goes out of "feeding mode".
Here's a good video where the guy demonstrates hook training.

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Getting good advice here. I think you should work with this and see how things go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

I think bumping the temps up would be a good idea... That said, just monitor them closely to make sure that it doesn't raise higher than that.

If you just got your boa, he will need time to settle in (at least 2 weeks is the standard). For that time, only
when necessary (i.e. go in the cage to clean, change water, etc. only).

I personally have a hook (you can see it in front of the tub in the pic of Jax's setup). You might want to get a hook, but you can use a coat hanger for some of the functions of a hook. I would start hook training him now, which should help avoid you getting bit due to food response and it can also help cage defensive behavior some too.

To "hook train" you teach the snake to associate being "stroked" with an inanimate object (like a hook, paper towel tube, coat hanger, etc.) with being picked up. You stroke him each time before you clean his water, move him, etc... any time your hands go in the tank when food isn't involved. With a hook, you can also gently lift him off the ground, which may help you get your hands under him and avoid getting bit. When you feed, you don't use the hook, so the snake learns hook= no food and goes out of "feeding mode".
Here's a good video where the guy demonstrates hook training.

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ok thank bumped it up to 35 max in day 30 at night as i noramly loose a few degress ks there anything else i need to know

Nothing I can thnk of... When you do start handling him, use a hook (see video I linked to), but also come from behind and once you get him out of the cage, come from below (predators come from above, so coming from below will help). Don't put him back if he hisses / strikes as he will learn that those behaviors = getting put back into his cage. Both of my boas like to explore when out and are quite docile... Once you're settles in he should also improve with frequent handling.

Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

Nothing I can thnk of... When you do start handling him, use a hook (see video I linked to), but also come from behind and once you get him out of the cage, come from below (predators come from above, so coming from below will help). Don't put him back if he hisses / strikes as he will learn that those behaviors = getting put back into his cage. Both of my boas like to explore when out and are quite docile... Once you're settles in he should also improve with frequent handling.

Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.

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got him a ceremic bulb t get temps up an changed his substrate aswell to hold humidity he is a nice snake but cant id his morph was told he was a hypo but he is green and brown i tink with only a small bit of yellow an pink so i dunno any thoughts

Can you try taking a pic and posting to photobucket of him? I don't know many boas thta have green in their coloration. If he was sold to you as a "common boa" or "redtail" he is probably a Colombian bci.

If he is a hypo, he will be a colombian bci morph. This site lists several morphs with pics and descriptions. The hypo they show is an adult, so is more brown, but hypos basically have a reduced pattern and less black than normals..

This is my hypo bci. He is much smaller than the one you have, so his colors will be lighter, but you can see the typical "bow tie" markings, lack of black, and orangish-red tail markings of all hypos. He isn't a very good example of the morph, but you should still be able to see the characteristics with him.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...a/DSCN2758.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by artgecko

Can you try taking a pic and posting to photobucket of him? I don't know many boas thta have green in their coloration. If he was sold to you as a "common boa" or "redtail" he is probably a Colombian bci.

If he is a hypo, he will be a colombian bci morph. This site lists several morphs with pics and descriptions. The hypo they show is an adult, so is more brown, but hypos basically have a reduced pattern and less black than normals..

This is my hypo bci. He is much smaller than the one you have, so his colors will be lighter, but you can see the typical "bow tie" markings, lack of black, and orangish-red tail markings of all hypos. He isn't a very good example of the morph, but you should still be able to see the characteristics with him.


he looks like the photo you sent brown green with som yellow on the side and tail woth abit of pink
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...a/DSCN2758.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by artgecko

Can you try taking a pic and posting to photobucket of him? I don't know many boas thta have green in their coloration. If he was sold to you as a "common boa" or "redtail" he is probably a Colombian bci.

If he is a hypo, he will be a colombian bci morph. This site lists several morphs with pics and descriptions. The hypo they show is an adult, so is more brown, but hypos basically have a reduced pattern and less black than normals..

This is my hypo bci. He is much smaller than the one you have, so his colors will be lighter, but you can see the typical "bow tie" markings, lack of black, and orangish-red tail markings of all hypos. He isn't a very good example of the morph, but you should still be able to see the characteristics with him.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...a/DSCN2758.jpg

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[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg3_zps6b42f779.jpg.html[/COLOR][COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/sn...c56ab.jpg.html




http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/sn...2f779.jpg.html
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hope that works bro if you can not find it they should be on my profile if its ok can u ost my pics here

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http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg4_zps8c8c56ab.jpg.html




http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/snakelover9/media/imagejpg3_zps6b42f779.jpg.html
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Here is one of the pics

http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6b42f779.jpg

He is definitely a hypo. You can tell by the lack of black edging around his tail markings.

Wearing gloves? If he does bite you, don't pull away (wait for him to release) or you may pull teeth out. I'd leave him be for now to settle in, then in about a week or two, if he's feeding for you ok, then start handling regularly. Use the info I posted on hook training and just be gentle and consistent and he should calm down.