Question..

Okay so i was suggested to buy a heat rock, now some people on this facebook group i am on are having a fit because of it, saying it is junk, can burn the snake, and so on and so fourth.. Now asking y'all your opinions about it..


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Heat rocks supposedly are known for causing burns on ball pythons. I think it has to do with how hot they can get. I have never had one but if you search the forum and visit the ball python husbandry section of the forum you should be able the find more info on them. If it it happens to fail it may do so and stay on creating to much heat i believe.

Please stay away from these. There are MUCH better (read: safer) ways to provide heat for your ball python.

Well i don't intend on leaving it on 24/7 only a few hours a day will work for it, during the night time as i switch from day light to night light.. I mean it is suppose to help digest their meals as it clearly stats on the box.. But i wanted some input from y'all about it because like i said i am getting major negative feedback on the group.. But i doubt half of them really understand how to take care of a BP none the less a frog.. Just sayin'

It doesn't matter how long it's on for - it will still cause major problems (anything from neurological problems to burns). It is better to not have heat at all than to stick one of these in with your snake.

I believe they do not last long before they fail. You would be better of with a uth connected to a thermostat to regulate the temperature.
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=201740
Visit this thread for more info on glass tank setup. You want to know how much heat is being produced and a bp needs heat for 6-24 hours i believe to aid in digestion after eating. Hot rocks are not the best way to do this.

Okay, i didn't fully understand this. I have always used a heat rock for all the reptiles i have ever owned and never had a problem with it. But i can always return this and get an UTH soon. I don't want my baby Arabella hurt ya know.. Just didn't make sense to me about that seems how i never had a problem with them in the past.

I would throw it away as fast as you can.

I would absolutely return it and go the UTH and thermostat route. Out of curiosity, what kinds of animals have you kept before that you used one of these with?

Also i think i know the facebook group you are talking about. Please forgive them as they are only trying to look out for the animal which in turn looks out for you especially if this is your first ball python. However they can jump the gun somewhat and fail to fully explain the how what and why. Be sure to check out the care sheet and read the threads. There is alot of awesome info here.

Ive owned a BP before, not for a long time due to a move but i also had iguanas (which a few of them lived for many years and got over 4 foot long) Which doesn't say much, i just misunderstood and made a mistake. Pulling it from the tank now and will be returning it tomorrow most definitely!

Edit:
The group so far the ones talking are rude and not explaining much.. Their ranting about my lamp also.. But i do not wish any harm to come to my baby Arabella so i am gonna take the rock out and switch to UTH.

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Originally Posted by xBlaziNx

Okay, i didn't fully understand this.

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I'll try to help you out the best I can. These rocks keep an average temperature between 90-110 degrees - sometimes lower, sometimes much higher. The absolute highest temperature that you want your BP coming into contact with for any period of time is 95 degrees (closer to 90 is better for the health reasons stated earlier). Since you do not have the ability to control the temperature of this rock with any reliability within its preset range (remember, 90-110), you will end up putting your BP in danger. There are some reptiles that can stand these temperatures - ball pythons are not one of them.

Your tank is looking good but there are a few thinks that could be done to improve on it. That will help your bp feel more secure which will help not cause undue stress. Undue stress can cause issues like your snake not wanting to eat for example. The link i posted will have most of the info.

The rock has its own preset.. Now my tank stays around 75-80 degrees, now would this matter to anything or no..?


Edit:
When i got her the tank was basically bare and so far she isn't giving any issues with eating except the fact she seems always hungry lol..

It will be ok til you can do improvements such as the tin foil mod to the screen top to keep in more heat and humidity.

No. The heat rocks have proven too unreliable for our animals. That's a perfect range to be in for ambient temperatures though. :gj:

If you haven't already read this, please take some time to do so: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...s%29-Caresheet.

Just curious, how do you all feel about the zoomed deluxe model heat rock with an adjustable rheostat? Anyone have any experience with it? Seems to have good reviews on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiC.../dp/B0002AQCN2

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Originally Posted by salt

Just curious, how do you all feel about the zoomed deluxe model heat rock with an adjustable rheostat? Anyone have any experience with it? Seems to have good reviews on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiC.../dp/B0002AQCN2

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In a glass enclosure you need to have the cord go through the top. I would rather cords be in or out since it passes usually via the screen lid. The description on Amazon and zoomed does not say what it will do if it fails. So if it has an issue, is it going to turn off or go super nova?

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Originally Posted by salt

Just curious, how do you all feel about the zoomed deluxe model heat rock with an adjustable rheostat? Anyone have any experience with it? Seems to have good reviews on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiC.../dp/B0002AQCN2

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My gut says that's like putting lipstick on a pig, but having no personal experience with that particular one, I read through the reviews. This customer's experience is enough for me to still say I wouldn't recommend it:

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"Perfect size and height. I can't get my gecko off of it! However, I had to cut the cord off. Even at its lowest temperature, it got too hot (high 90's to 109degrees.) The overhead light heats it plenty with it turned off, so Lizzy the the leopard gecko and I are both happy!"

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I didn't read all of the above comments so i don't know where the conversation went. MY INPUT on this is that I also have a heat rock. It looks like yours plugs in and heats up electrically? I have got one that you put in the hotspot of your tank and it absorbs heat. Its designed to never get too hot. It also keeps heat for hours after turning off a lamp or whatever. I wouldn't use an electric one simply because many people have told me they over heat for pythons. If i were you I would place a thermometer next to it to keep an eye on how hot it gets OR even safer, put a thermostat on it. This is just my opinion. I try to give as much help as I receive on this website.

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Originally Posted by auhsojnacnud

...I also have a heat rock...

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No. What you have is a rock. If by "designed to never get too hot" you mean that it follows the laws of physics, then yes - you're right. Marketing geniuses!;)

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Originally Posted by auhsojnacnud

...OR even safer, put a thermostat on it...

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Can't put a thermostat on something inside the enclosure. :)

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

No. What you have is a rock.

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Hahaha - this made me laugh.

I have also used this method for my milk snakes. Just put a normal rock on top of their heat mats (so only glass as a barrier). They loved to wrap around it.

OP, I noticed you said that people didn't like your lamp. Can I ask why? Looks like you have a red one, which is fine. You may be even better to go with a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) which is available at most pet stores and looks exactly like a lightbulb (but without the light!) Ball Pythons don't really need a day/night cycle or even a nightly drop in temperature. A CHE is nice because you can regulate it and just leave it on all the time. Mine's a 150 watt, but I only have it running around 60% power. Combined with my UTH, temps are perfect.

I use rheostats, but most people here will recommend thermostats. And I agree with them, but if you are -CAREFUL- then rheostats can work okay in a room with a consistent temperature.
Always clearly mark the "perfect" setting on your rheostat so that if you accidentally bump it, you can fix it immediately.

Just my two cents - best of luck!

You are always going to find people who never had a problem with any product and swear by it. You need to look at the overall. I have seen way more injuries due to heat rocks than any other heat source. I believe this is due do them being easily sold and marketed as for reptiles, but you still have a heating element that the snake can wrap itself around, with the cheapest components to regulate them, if they are regulated at all, and I have never seen one with a fail safe.

Another common one that I see cause injury is heat lamps inside the cage, obviously the snake touches it and gets burned. Most people seem to realize this danger and avoid it, but then there are people who think the snake will recognize it as too hot to touch. I see it most often with custom built cages and they didn't know how else to heat it. You will still find people that swear they never had an issue heating this way also.

A UTH with a thermostat is generally accepted as a pretty safe way of heating, UTH is placed outside the cage and heated through the cage, they are just laminated heating elements, not really many parts to fail. the thermostat regulates it and if you get a good thermostat, it will also have a fail safe of some sort. Some even have alarms for over or under temperatures and such. Some thermostats off benefits unrelated to safety, like the ability to night drop for breeding. Makes them an easy choice for almost anyone imo.

Another battle you are going to have with the glass tank is humidity. Chances are you are going to want to cover up most of the screen top, as most people have to to maintain humidity and heat. UTH do way less damage on humidity then any other heat source either, since they aren't as hot. You can try using just the UTH and see where your temp gradient falls, generally you want the hottest spot 90-94 and the coldest spot around 80. in glass tanks the uth alone has a hard time heating that cold side up in a lot of houses, so something else might be needed. You'll have to see what works for you.

If you have any other questions or still have issues, ask the forum, way too much experience that is willing to help on this board to really go anywhere else. also in case you missed it, check out the link that was posted above http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures! It will give you good base to start from.

Thank you y'all i do appreciate the advice i've been getting from this forum! I have already unplugged and taken the rock out, i will be returning it shortly. Within the next few weeks i am going to do the UTH, as of the moment my tank is in perfect heating conditions so i think it'll be okay for now. I also do cover half the screen up to help control the humidity. But thanks again y'all!

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Can't put a thermostat on something inside the enclosure. :)

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Why not? If you have a hole in the lid big enough for the chord why not?

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Originally Posted by auhsojnacnud

Why not? If you have a hole in the lid big enough for the chord why not?

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The probe for the thermostat needs to be in contact with the hottest part of the heating element without possibility of it being moved, getting wet, or otherwise. Inside of the enclosure those things are guaranteed to happen. Proper placement for a probe, if you are using belly heat, is sandwiched on the outside of the enclosure between the heat source and the bottom of the enclosure. This takes all of the previous problems out of the equation and you will have reliable control over your heat source.

I should clarify, however. I'm strictly talking about the probe for a belly heat type element. There are perfectly good ways to use a thermostat probe inside of the enclosure if you're using it for things like controlling radiant heat panels or heat bulbs.