Feed Snake & Return to Primary Tank or ...

Hello all. First time posting. It's been a while since I've owned a snake. I actually got a regular BP back in the 80's and had him for 26 yrs. Recently, I've been missing him so my wife and I went to the pet store to look at them and get a feel for them again. Well, 2 snakes later ... lol. So, we're loving our new snakes. She has a F - Pinstripe BP and I have a M - Mojave BP, both about 3/4 months old (pic in Avatar). I know that there's much debate on whether to feed them in their primary tank or a secondary tank so that they don't get used to feeding in their primary. (Although, I never had a problem feeding my previous BP in his primary tank-although he was about 3yrs old when I got him). After doing research, I understand that it's good to feed them in a secondary tank (terrarium), and then leave them alone for about 48hrs. However, since their smaller feed tanks (which are large plastic containers) don't have heat in them, I'd rather not leave them in it for 48hrs. Is it ok to feed them in the secondary "feeding" tanks and then after eating, lower the entire container into their main tank to let them crawl out and enjoy their true & heated home (since the UTH helps with their digestion)? Thanks all for reading this and for your help! Enjoy your babies !!

I think most people are no longer using special feeding tanks anymore. Just feed them in their normal enclosures.

I had snakes since the late 80's myself. I also prefer separate feeding tanks. You'll find a lot of people on here don't use that technique any more. Probably because they have so many. I use a separate tank to feed. Usually give 5 to 10 minutes after they've eaten to return them to their tank. I can not remember ever having a problem doing this way. So if you choose to feed in a separate tank, give them 15 minutes and put them back in their enclosure. :):) And yes I used this method with boa constrictors also.

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

You'll find a lot of people on here don't use that technique any more. Probably because they have so many.

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Actually it's because moving an adult boa in feeding mode is a good way to end up bleeding like a stuck pig, even if that snake isn't normally aggressive or defensive.

I do the same as Sonny1318 and have no problems, I have a small plastic tub I line only with a shop towel then put the snake in then the mouse. Then while he/she is working on getting it down I can spot clean their tub/tank, refill water, etc. After I know the mouse has been downed I just pick the snake up and gently put them back in their tub. They almost immediately go right for the hot side hide box to digest for a day or two. The main reason I do it this way is to spot clean the tub, the secondary reason is I've seen a lot of threads regarding snakes with substrate stuck in their mouth's. I don't believe there is anything to the whole aggression thing, I think that depends on the snake itself.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Actually it's because moving an adult boa in feeding mode is a good way to end up bleeding like a stuck pig, even if that snake isn't normally aggressive or defensive.

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Never been stuck like a pig during feeding. Have to practice better husbandry if your getting bit during feeding. Boa or other. :D

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Originally Posted by C2tcardin

I do the same as Sonny1318 and have no problems, I have a small plastic tub I line only with a shop towel then put the snake in then the mouse. Then while he/she is working on getting it down I can spot clean their tub/tank, refill water, etc. After I know the mouse has been downed I just pick the snake up and gently put them back in their tub. They almost immediately go right for the hot side hide box to digest for a day or two. The main reason I do it this way is to spot clean the tub, the secondary reason is I've seen a lot of threads regarding snakes with substrate stuck in their mouth's. I don't believe there is anything to the whole aggression thing, I think that depends on the snake itself.

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Thank you, well put. Worded very well. :)

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Never been stuck like a pig during feeding. Have to practice better husbandry if your getting bit during feeding. Boa or other. :D

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I invite you to move my 30 lb 5.5ft blood python while she is ready to feed, or even my 4ft gtp. I'm not sure what husbandry has to do with it but I bet you will find feeding in their cage is much preferred to the alternative.

Op,

Most of the experienced keepers here feed in their enclosures. There are many reason for this. 1.Dont get tagged, 2. Less stress on snake, 3. More likely to have successful feeding, 4. More efficient(think about feeding several snakes to hundreds.), 5. Less equipment required, 6. Safer for snake and handler. Unless you believe in the myth of cage aggression there are no valid reasons to feed outside the enclosure.

Times have changed while some keepers have not. They are not necessarily wrong but feeding outside the cage is certainly not the best option for some snake. Balls are pretty laid back compared to some so I just don't see the point. If your not afraid to move your snake in feed mode why are you afraid of cage aggression. Are they not in the same mode during both encounters? So what gives?

I say feed your snake in its home and leave him be for at least 24 hours. I can tell you from my experience with some very aggressive feeders including my ball I have never had an issue with aggression during regular handling. My 6ft brb is a missile at feeding time and can hardly be restrained from attacking the rat immediately but at all other times he is a good natured courious wonderfully behaved boy.

Do what you want but most here will say its a waste if time to feed outside.

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Originally Posted by KMG

I invite you to move my 30 lb 5.5ft blood python while she is ready to feed, or even my 4ft gtp. I'm not sure what husbandry has to do with it but I bet you will find feeding in their cage is much preferred to the alternative.

Op,

Most of the experienced keepers here feed in their enclosures. There are many reason for this. 1.Dont get tagged, 2. Less stress on snake, 3. More likely to have successful feeding, 4. More efficient(think about feeding several snakes to hundreds.), 5. Less equipment required, 6. Safer for snake and handler. Unless you believe in the myth of cage aggression there are no valid reasons to feed outside the enclosure.

Times have changed while some keepers have not. They are not necessarily wrong but feeding outside the cage is certainly not the best option for some snake. Balls are pretty laid back compared to some so I just don't see the point. If your not afraid to move your snake in feed mode why are you afraid of cage aggression. Are they not in the same mode during both encounters? So what gives?

I say feed your snake in its home and leave him be for at least 24 hours. I can tell you from my experience with some very aggressive feeders including my ball I have never had an issue with aggression during regular handling. My 6ft brb is a missile at feeding time and can hardly be restrained from attacking the rat immediately but at all other times he is a good natured courious wonderfully behaved boy.

Do what you want but most here will say its a waste if time to feed outside.

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If you got a snake that your afraid to move maybe you shouldn't be keeping it. That's why so many snakes get released, resulting in negative press. Has nothing to do with cage aggression, next time read the whole thread. Always do what I feel is best, don't need your blessing. Hitler thought he was right too. ;-)

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Hitler thought he was right too. ;-)

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Comparing advice from an experienced keeper to genocide... classy. :irkd:

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Comparing advice from an experienced keeper to genocide... classy. :irkd:

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Seriously. Godwin's law hit quick in this thread.

Sonny:
KMG was simply offering his/her perspective. To jump to saying they shouldn't keep a snake because for them moving their animal while in feeding mode increases their odds of a bite is pretty uncalled for. Bringing in Hitler is just bizarre.

I sorry let me apologize, now was that advise I confused with belittling arrogance. My bad. Again read the whole not hole post.

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

If you got a snake that your afraid to move maybe you shouldn't be keeping it. That's why so many snakes get released, resulting in negative press. Has nothing to do with cage aggression, next time read the whole thread. Always do what I feel is best, don't need your blessing. Hitler thought he was right too. ;-)

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I read the whole thread but the main body of my post was directed to the OP. The portion of my post regarding you directly followed your quoted text. The placement of "Op," following my comments to you designated I was then speaking to the OP.

Since your right and most of the users here are wrong please set us straight as to why I should feed outside my enclosure if its not cage aggression that yall are worried about.

Throwing Hitler into this thread was pretty insensitive and way off base. It speaks volumes about your character.

OP,

KMG's advice is sound. There are many reasons to feed your animals in their own enclosure, most of which have to do with the animal's own safety. Some of those reasons have to do with the keeper's safety. The former is more important to me, so (keeping the latter in mind), I choose to feed my snakes in their own homes.

Hey guys,

Let's keep it civil. If there is a misunderstanding of word use or sarcasm, please take it to PM and keep the thread on topic.

Thank you.

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Originally Posted by Pyrate81

Hey guys,

Let's keep it civil. If there is a misunderstanding of word use or sarcasm, please take it to PM and keep the thread on topic.

Thank you.

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I dont believe that's the case and I do not require nor want any PMs. I say let the new users show their colors in full view of the forum.

No misunderstanding, their right.

Back on topic.

For my baby snakes/young snakes I feed them in a separate container. That way I know they don't eat any substrate. Once they have some size I move to feeding in their enclosure. There is no right or wrong way. It works for me.

Right now just my baby corn snake and boa are fed out of their enclosure. It works very smoothly.

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Originally Posted by HVani

There is no right or wrong way. It works for me.

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In the end this is what it boils down to. Whatever works for you.

To the OP, you said in your initial post you had a BP for 26 years before. I would just do whatever you did the first time around again (with everything not just feeding).

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Actually it's because moving an adult boa in feeding mode is a good way to end up bleeding like a stuck pig, even if that snake isn't normally aggressive or defensive.

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This. I would never move my boa in feed mode. She hits like a train and it's not worth risking a bite, for both our sakes. She has a ridiculous feeding response. I am aware that the OP is talking about a ball python, but I'm on the "feed in cage" side of the debate primarily for this reason.

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Never been stuck like a pig during feeding. Have to practice better husbandry if your getting bit during feeding. Boa or other. :D

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Not sure what husbandry has to do with anything. How is it bad husbandry to not want to move a large constrictor that is still in feed mode?

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

If you got a snake that your afraid to move maybe you shouldn't be keeping it. That's why so many snakes get released, resulting in negative press. Has nothing to do with cage aggression, next time read the whole thread. Always do what I feel is best, don't need your blessing. Hitler thought he was right too. ;-)

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It has nothing to do with being afraid. I don't want to move a large snake that thinks I'm food because it's not worth it. Bites from a large snake aren't particularly fun, and it's less stressful on her to avoid them as well. Fear has nothing to do with it, there's just no point. Just because I want to avoid a bite doesn't mean I'm going to dump my pets. That makes no sense.


Back to the main question.... OP - There's no real proof that feeding in the cage prevents cage aggression, so what you do is really up to you. About the only argument for it that I buy is that it prevents them from ingesting any substrate. Which honestly isn't really a big deal in most cases, but if that's something that concerns you you can lay down a plastic placemat over the loose substrate and still feed in the cage.

Basically for me it boils down to the fact that there are lots of reasons to not feed outside a cage.
-Risk finicky eaters being to nervous to eat in a less familiar place or after handling
-Risk moving a snake in feed mode (though bps are more laid back)
-Takes more time, you have to wait for them to fully eat before moving them back
-Risk stressing them upon moving them back

To the OP: I agree with what 200xth just posted above... If you kept a snake for a long time before and fed in the enclosure you housed him in, then do what you did then. I have used both methods (I fed my juvie sand boas outside their tubs to avoid ingesting substrate, but currently feed all of my snakes inside their tubs).

If you are concerned about cage aggression, look into hook training. Purchase an appropriately sized hook and before you handle the snake, use the hook to stroke / wake the snake up. Never use the hook at feeding times (only when handling) and the snake will become conditioned that the hook= handling and no food, therefore, the snake will snap out of "food mode" and be easily handled. I have never had a food-aggressive response from any of mine except when mice / rats are in the room or they've just fed... So this may not be an issue for you. Most BP owners that I know don't have to use hooks.

The decision to feed inside or outside your primary enclosure is up to you. Both methods have proponents and credibility in different circumstances. As I said earlier in the post, I've done both. Now I prefer to feed in primary enclosures as it is helping my more finicky sand boa feed (moving her to a feeding tub was apparently stressing her and making it harder to get her to eat) and it also makes things easier with my boas, which are much more aggressive at feeding time.

If you do choose to feed in another container, move the snake back within about 30 mins of eating so that they can get on their hot spot and start digesting. Without proper heat, they will not be able to digest properly.

Thank you all so much for your replies. I greatly appreciate all the info. I do agree with most and I'd like to feed our babies like previously (within their own home/tank instead of a secondary "feeding" container). So, for those that have more than 1 snake in the same terrarium, how do you separate the snakes when you feed them in their main tank? I'm thinking that the best way would be to put a cardboard divider in the tank at feeding time, but positioned so that both snakes can feel the UTH afterwards for digestion. That way, their in their "home" tank, less stressed, eating, and digesting for 48hrs. Afterwards, remove the divider and enjoy them as usual. Is that what most of u do (that feed more than 1 snake at the same time in the same tank)? Thanks again for your help. Just want our babies to enjoy their new home as much as my wife & I are enjoying them.

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Originally Posted by VictoryWon4Him

So, for those that have more than 1 snake in the same terrarium, how do you separate the snakes when you feed them in their main tank?

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Simple answer: It is not recommended to have more than one snake in the same enclosure. :)

Well there is just one of the reason it is not usually suggested to house them together. All my snakes live in their own enclosure.

Why you want to house them together?

Have you sexed them?

Is breeding part of your plan?

I'm currently only an admirer and have yet to actually get my own snakes, so feel free to disregard. But I fail to see any pros in housing multiples together for non-breeding purposes, aside from saving a small amount of time and money. It only creates issues for the snakes themselves (stress, transfer of sickness, fighting, etc) and owner convenience really shouldn't come at the cost of the animal's comfort.

If you're planning on housing them together, you might want to do some research on that and decide if that's really the best way to go if you want the maximum amount of comfort for them.

I'm new to snakes and initially tried to feed our hatchling BP in a feeding tank f/t. She was not happy and refused to eat. Then we tried live in separate tank...too complicated and you could tell she wasn't really comfortable in feeding tank. So then tried live in her normal enclosure. Touch wood, never had a problem since. She knows the difference when we are going to feed her. I "warn" her by stroking her mid section if I'm just handling her and she happily crawls up my arm. We let her tell us when she's hungry...she literally starts hunting. Goes to all the places she has caught mice before looking. She is only 5 months but we spend a lot of time with her and know her 'signs' and she ours. Works for us.


Molly & Precioucess

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Originally Posted by KMG

Well there is just one of the reason it is not usually suggested to house them together. All my snakes live in their own enclosure.

Why you want to house them together?

Have you sexed them?

Is breeding part of your plan?

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Thanks for your reply. They were actually together with other snakes when we bought them. They are male & female in hopes of breeding (once they're of age). We were told that housing together wouldn't be a problem since they're used to it and are the same type (BPs). Is that not correct? Does anyone house them together or does everyone use a divider or separate tanks? Thanks again for all of your awesome replies!

Never follow the example of a pet store. Their focus is presentation so people can see the snakes and want to buy them. They also house them together because they simply can not house them all separate in most cases.

While it can be done it makes things very difficult especially when they are not of the same sex.

Some issues can be if one gets sick it can get the other sick.
Its hard to tell which did what as in loose feces, regurgitating, refused feeder.
You need a large cage with several hides and several heat sources so they are not competing over one.

Then the main issue is they are not going to wait on when your ready for them to breed. When they think their ready they are gonna start without you. This is especially hard on the male as they will exhaust themselves even to death performing the mating process. Breeding takes a toll on both sides and if you are not prepared to breed they should really be separated, IMHO.

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Originally Posted by VictoryWon4Him

Thanks for your reply. They were actually together with other snakes when we bought them. They are male & female in hopes of breeding (once they're of age). We were told that housing together wouldn't be a problem since they're used to it and are the same type (BPs). Is that not correct? Does anyone house them together or does everyone use a divider or separate tanks? Thanks again for all of your awesome replies!

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They were together because it doesn't make financial sense for pet stores to house every one of their small animals separately. It works (sort of) during the short time while they're in the store, but not as a long term solution. The employee was incorrect in the advice they gave you about keeping them together. I'm sure they told you that because they weren't as educated as they could have been. Even in the big box's own care guides it states that solitary housing is best, despite what you see in their displays.

Can it be done? Yes. However, doing so requires specialized care and more advanced husbandry techniques. Most people (myself absolutely included) are not able to provide such care because they lack the hands-on experience necessary to do so. Simplify both your life and theirs by keeping your animals in separate enclosures.

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Never been stuck like a pig during feeding. Have to practice better husbandry if your getting bit during feeding. Boa or other. :D

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Husbandry has diddly over squat to do with it.

Thank you all again so much for your informative replies. It's been a great help learning form each of you. Now I'll be making some useful changes for us and our babies. I'll split the tank that I currently have and keep a lookout for a second tank so that they'll be separate for less stress and happier lives as they grow. They should be ok in a split tank for a while till they get much bigger and by that time, I'll have another tank to set up so that they can enjoy being totally separate. Peace & Blessings to you all !

I use a separate container to feed and it works well.Actually,my sbake broke a four month fast when I first tried the separate container.I use a snake hook to place him back in his primary cage to avoid getting bit by a snake in feeding mode.


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I take mine out in a plastic tub and he never has a problem all depends on preference

So how long should you wait to take him/her back out and place them back in their main enclosure after feeding?

Moving your snake out of its enclosure to feed is a waste time. It's one of the old myths that they will be cage aggressive. Not true, and it will only add more stress to the snake. Only reason I would do it, is if you have an extremely picky eater and your testing the waters on how to crack the code of getting them to eat. But outside of that, its completely unnecessary.

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

If you got a snake that your afraid to move maybe you shouldn't be keeping it. That's why so many snakes get released, resulting in negative press. Has nothing to do with cage aggression, next time read the whole thread. Always do what I feel is best, don't need your blessing. Hitler thought he was right too. ;-)

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There's a huge difference between kmg having an animal he can't handle (which is not the case) and being smart enough to know when not to move it. Handling a large snake after a large meal isn't the brightest of ideas for many reasons.

Regardless of the species kept (does not matter if it's a hognose or a boa) moving a snake that is in feeding mode (this may occur hours before feeding and hours after) increases the risk of being tagged.

Feeding outside the enclosure to avoid being mistaken for food or prevent aggression is a MYTH.

Now also keep in mind that with BP (not talking about any other species) moving the animal can also cause enough stress to lead to a refusal.

Now with that knowledge it's up to each owner to feed their animals based on what work for them.

Seperate tank feeder here too. Feed, wait 10 min or so. Gently put her right back into her tank. No issues.

I guess non of my snakes go into feed mode until they are in their container.

My boa is sweet as he can be but once he's in his feeding container all bets are off. Since he's still small I just put the container in his cage so when he's done he can move along.

Like I said earlier I only feed babies in separate containers.

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Originally Posted by Skiploder

Husbandry has diddly over squat to do with it.

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Someone is sour because his snakes try to bite him when he moves them. Would you like to talk about it, skippy?

I think 80%/90% of my balls wont eat if I put them in another container. Balls are shy.

Thanks to all your replies, my wife and I are getting more and more excited about getting another tank to separate our babies for their comfort/security. Last night, we were able to find a small tank to use temporary so that our babies are now in 2 separate homes. We're also keeping an eye out at Thrift stores, C' list, etc. to hopefully come across a good deal in our area for a larger tank. No rush, but we know that she's going to quickly outgrow the one that she's in now. So, I wanted to know what some of you, that have a large tank split into two, like compared to having two separate tanks. My thinking is that having a large say 100 gallon tank, split into two using a divider, would be nice so that they both can have 50g each. That way, we can put in plenty of hides, bamboo, etc. so that they can have plenty of freedom yet feel safe, along with UTH's of course for hot spots and plenty of room for cold spots as well. However, having 2 completely separate 50 gallons would be nice as well. If one doesn't eat when the other eats, the one that ate would prol be licking it's chops smelling the mouse in the other side of the split tank. Or, since they go to the bathroom at different times, we'd be cleaning one half of the tank and possibly disturb the other snake if we use the split tank. 2 completely separate tanks would eliminate these examples. What do you all think: Large split tank using a divider vs 2 separate tanks to put each in separately? BTW - What do you all think of ZooMeds UTH? I've had one for only 3yrs and it's no longer working. I would think they would last much longer than that since my original UTH from over 20yrs ago is still working well.

I think you've just hit the trifecta of most common questions! First separate feeding tubs, then housing together, now we're going to get into UTHs and thermostats! :)

I'm on my lunch break at work right now, but if no one else gives you a solid reply, I'll put in my 2 cents worth for ya. I'm sure someone will help out sooner than later though. This is one of our favorite topics.

:gj:

I like to use ultratherm heat pads. I find that they heat more evenly than zoomed and I once had a zoomed uth that would continue to heat after power was cut off (on/off type thermostat) and would get about 9 degrees above the temp it was supposed to be.

For a thermostat, the best one that most agree on is a herpstat. I use a herpstat 4 to control 4 seperate uths set at different temps and love it. They are easy to use and reliable. But.....they aren't cheap. If you have a split tank and are controlling 1 UTH (placed under the center of the divider so that each section has a warm spot near the center where the divider is), you could use a thermostat with 1 probe (like a herpstat 1.) If you get two tanks, with different UTHs, you will either need 2 thermostats with 1 probe / channel each or a thermostat that will control 2 UTHs (like the herpstat 2). The best "on / off" type thermostat that most use is the hydrofarm. I am currently using two of them and have had no problems.

I would suggest that you look into a pvc cage.. I don't own one myself, but I know that many here swear by their ability to hold humidity / heat and secure your snake.. Plus they make a great looking display. AP is one of the popular manufacturers and they offer units that you can put a removable divider into as well. I think many people use the T8 or the T10 with BPs. Please note that you have to assemble these cages and they sell heat tape to go with them (which you would hook into a thermostat and control like a UTH). It may end up being cheaper for you to use one of these with a divider than buying and fixing up two glass tanks... Plus it'll be easier to clean.

Good luck with your BPs!

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Originally Posted by artgecko

Yada yada... good info... yada yada.

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See, OP! What'd I tell ya. ;)

Wow............. got the whole Springer show in one morning and just because I read through all the thoughts, truths and some ignorance I feel compelled to post as well.

I will start off with the truth: What works in my house might not work in yours. :gj:

Move them to feed if you wish, doesn't really make a difference either way as long as your animal is eating. FYI I could view getting tagged moving your snake after feeding as a husbandry issue. Your removed them from THEIR environment so not only are they hungry but defensive too. LoL
Just think how much fun people will have moving their snakes on feeding night when your collection grows to say 20 or 40?

Yes, they can be housed together but yet again if you are not sure of how to read your animals or proper housing then it is not the greatest idea.

THG heat tape is a fraction f the cost of pre made heat pads, JUST REMEMBER ALL OF THEM NEED TO BE REGULATED!!!!!!
Thermostats are your choice. I have a Helix and several VE-200s. Its all your choice, you really don't have to try and keep up with the Jones.

On the final note: Lowes, Home Depot and Walmart are the greatest reptile suppy stores on the planet. :rofl::rofl:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

On the final note: Lowes, Home Depot and Walmart are the greatest reptile suppy stores on the planet. :rofl::rofl:

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Totally agree. This manual spray bottle is $9.99 at Canadian Tire (hardware store). The exact same bottle in a "For Reptile terrariums" box in a pet store is $14.99

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/sp...l#.VC05S_k7uSo

Same applies for dimmers, therm/hygrometers, bulbs, timers, power bars and so many other items.

This is one smoking thread.

It does however look like things have settled a bit and become civil.

I think KMG's example is perfect, and if you want to kick it up a notch or two there are plenty of folks here that have collections of large retics, anacondas, bigger boas, and burms.

I'd be hard pressed to believe they use a "feed box".

KMG is a very good example of somebody who SHOULD own a big snake. Somebody that understands the food response, the size of a particular animal, and the risks involved during feeding. Most all of the bites we hear about are feeding mistakes remember.

There is no NEED to feed in another enclosure. I guess if you are concerned about ingestion of substrate, which happens in the wild without incident, or cleaning up a nice orderly tank, you could make a case for it.

The thought process of "When I open the door I'll be bitten because the snake expects food" VS "The snake will allow me to open the door, move it, and then go into feeding mode" makes no sense and is a myth.

With that line of thinking one could say taking the snake out for simple handling would make it "THINK" it's going to eat. There is no step by step reasoning involved with snakes.

These animals respond to the smell of food, movements, heat, vibrations and primitive instincts. If your snake is hungry enough or under fed, and strikes at the glass when you walk by, you won't be particularly interested in moving it elsewhere so it can eat. You will more than likely have teeth in you if you do.

No snake THINKS, "Here come my master's hands, I'm moved, now I'm in a my special tank, and now I can eat".

Everybody has a method that works well for them and that's fine. But the truth is, these animals are very complex and are still misunderstood.

Some snakes become stressed easily which is why almost every intelligent, experienced keeper/breeder has a time tested method for keeping them secure. That security is provided by making their environment secure. Individuals can and do vary, but snakes will feel most secure eating from where they are comfortable and that's what we want and more importantly what the animal needs.

Though this may not directly apply to the O/P, the royal python is a very good example of this. There are many that are so picky or stressed they will only eat in the dark with thawed prey left in their secure enclosure after everybody has left the room or they simply won't eat at all.

Not one experienced keeper will advise that a snake like that should be moved to a feeding tank. A snake like that needs to be housed in a small enclosure with all of the basic needs met, and you will find in many cases where snakes that have suddenly stopped feeding, will resume feeding if that same method is used. Moving an animal into a plastic bin that is more than likely wide open in a lighted room and totally changing it's environment is the complete opposite of the most common method for getting a snake eating and feeling secure. Which is why even a snake that has no stress issues should be left in it's enclosure as well.

There are so many variables involved with snakes, and it's impossible to cover everything, or every situation.

However, the BASIC guidelines for housing these animals are practiced, tried and true and pretty damn universal. SECURE ENVIRONMENT with proper husbandry is the number 1 on every list. Removing a snake from that during a critical periods isn't recommended and certainly not NEEDED.



If you are worried about being bitten by your snake when you open the cage door, use the precautions that the retic keepers use. Hook train, not feeding tank.

If we change this topic to venomous snakes for fun, I'd go out on a limb and say the separate feeding enclosure technique is not gonna fly LOL!

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Originally Posted by Gio

If we change this topic to venomous snakes for fun, I'd go out on a limb and say the separate feeding enclosure technique is not gonna fly LOL!

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All of the answers in this thread have been valuable. However, this response ^^^ pretty much stops all arguments. lol As many have said, we all have our different opinions, reasons, comfort level, etc, but as you said Gio, the fact that Hots aren't relocated for feeding makes the most sense. We'll be feeding our babies in their main tanks ONLY from now on. Thanks!!