Preparing for move to 36x18x18 Exo Terra. Tips?

Hello, I'm making the final move for my female adult ball to a 36"x18"x18" exo terra breeder. I was just wondering if anyone has a similar tank and had some tips on the general set up. I'm going with the eco earth coconut fiber substrate. I was more wondering how many lights/wattage would be needed along with how many UTH would be needed to create a favorable 94-80 gradient. I would also appreciate any suggestions on how many hides and water sources would be ideal, as well as general decoration ideas. Just want to get a basic idea of a general set-up before I make the move. Thanks so much!

Here is your best place to start for proper info! And Welcome to the Forum!

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

All depends on the environment you are putting the enclosure in, it can vary from house to house.

I use that same tank for both of my BP's.

I have per tank:

1 - 100w CHE
1 - 100w Red Bulb
1 - Flukers Large UTH
1 - Helix Controller for the temps (each tank)


Then I have the under side of the tank insulated with:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1-...99?N=5yc1vZ910

and I also used that to cover the majority of the vent screens in the top of the tank. It provides insulation as well as keeps in humidity. I think the dimesion is 16.5" x 7.5" but I went 16.375" x 7.375" for clearance while still achieving a snug fit. Obviously you'll need clearance for your overhead lamps if that is the route you're going.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps0d523214.jpg


Speaking of, you'll have a hell of a time keeping the humidity up in there. Which is why I have a large cool mist humidifier hooked up to my set up on a sensor to mist whenever the humidity drops below 53%
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...e-Fogger-Redux

I use orchard bark as a substrate, and decorate however I want. The Snakes have stuff to hide in, and climb on. Moist Hides make shed-time easier on everyone.


This set up works for me, it may not work for you. You'll have to experiment to find out what works for you because every room/house/climate is different. But the most crucial thing you're going to discover is that Humidity and Temperature are going to be a hard balance to achieve. Covering the top of your tank is going to be imperative, or you're going to be venting hot, moist air right out the top and you'll never get ahead of it. Might even be worth it to obscure 1/2 - 3/4 of the vents on the front of your tank. You won't suffocate them, I promise.

7My set up is similar with the same tank minus the insolation. Instead i use plexi glass on top and weather stripping at the door jams, and covered 90% of the front vents below the doors. I just moved to a different house and my previous set was an epic fail in my current home. As mentioned above keeping humidity stable is a nightmare in the tank. When you think you got it stable... condisation builds up which is a no no. Only reason I opted for this tank was because the price was right if I was to pay retail I would have gone with an abs enclosure. It was an unexpected purchase due to a table lamp falling over and shattering the side of the old enclosure.

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OP, did you already buy the Exo Terra cage? If you didnt, i'd suggest going Animal Plastic T8 or T12 and calling it a day. In a PVC enclosure it's easier to maintain both temps and humidity.

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if I had to do it over, I'd also go with a T8, T12, a Vision Cage, or something similar, but I got incredible deals on the big Exo Terra tanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tragic Image

I use that same tank for both of my BP's.

I have per tank:

1 - 100w CHE
1 - 100w Red Bulb
1 - Flukers Large UTH
1 - Helix Controller for the temps (each tank)


Then I have the under side of the tank insulated with:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1-...99?N=5yc1vZ910

and I also used that to cover the majority of the vent screens in the top of the tank. It provides insulation as well as keeps in humidity. I think the dimesion is 16.5" x 7.5" but I went 16.375" x 7.375" for clearance while still achieving a snug fit. Obviously you'll need clearance for your overhead lamps if that is the route you're going.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps0d523214.jpg


Speaking of, you'll have a hell of a time keeping the humidity up in there. Which is why I have a large cool mist humidifier hooked up to my set up on a sensor to mist whenever the humidity drops below 53%
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...e-Fogger-Redux

I use orchard bark as a substrate, and decorate however I want. The Snakes have stuff to hide in, and climb on. Moist Hides make shed-time easier on everyone.


This set up works for me, it may not work for you. You'll have to experiment to find out what works for you because every room/house/climate is different. But the most crucial thing you're going to discover is that Humidity and Temperature are going to be a hard balance to achieve. Covering the top of your tank is going to be imperative, or you're going to be venting hot, moist air right out the top and you'll never get ahead of it. Might even be worth it to obscure 1/2 - 3/4 of the vents on the front of your tank. You won't suffocate them, I promise.

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Absolutely awesome info! Thank you so much for everything. I will be going with eco earth substrate to try and combat the humidity issue. I was just wondering if you had any trouble with the plastic between the screens? I figured the heat from the CHE would melt it but it doesn't seem like you've had an issue with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr. Misha

OP, did you already buy the Exo Terra cage? If you didnt, i'd suggest going Animal Plastic T8 or T12 and calling it a day. In a PVC enclosure it's easier to maintain both temps and humidity.

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I have already bought it. It was very impulsive but I guy was going to a rack system and offered $90 for the tank, UTH, as well as two lighting fixtures. I haven't began prepping it for the transfer quite yet so I might look into selling it and looking into the T8/12. Thanks for the suggestion

Give yourself at least a 1/2 inch of clearance to the plastic for the frame and regulate all heat sources.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tragic Image

Give yourself at least a 1/2 inch of clearance to the plastic for the frame and regulate all heat sources.

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Thanks for the advice. There is already a part of the lid the has melted a bit and that is what had me worried. I'm shopping around the tank now and if i get any hits I'll probably be looking at a T8. Would you recommend ordering them from the website, or do they typically have these models at reptile shows? I'm located near Indianapolis and they generally have a very large reptile show biannually f.y.i.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bdnorton48

I haven't began prepping it for the transfer quite yet so I might look into selling it and looking into the T8/12.

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No worries. I just think it's going to be a lot easier for you in the long run. It will help you with humidity issues since the PVC terrariums are fully enclosed.

Also, if you decide to go the RHP route for ambient heating in the PVC terrarium (which I highly suggest), once you get a herpstat 2 to control the RHP and the heat tape (for the hot spot) you won't have to worry about anything at all.

That's the setup im running right now except I have a Herpstat 4 because I have 2 RHPs (my T12 is split) and heat tape. Even though it seems like a large investment at first, the worries about temps and humidity go away.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr. Misha

No worries. I just think it's going to be a lot easier for you in the long run. It will help you with humidity issues since the PVC terrariums are fully enclosed.

Also, if you decide to go the RHP route for ambient heating in the PVC terrarium (which I highly suggest), once you get a herpstat 2 to control the RHP and the heat tape (for the hot spot) you won't have to worry about anything at all.

That's the setup im running right now except I have a Herpstat 4 because I have 2 RHPs (my T12 is split) and heat tape. Even though it seems like a large investment at first, the worries about temps and humidity go away.

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I am currently using UTH/lighting with my glass tank so I have little knowledge on RHPs and Flexwatt. My understanding is that Flexwatt heats from the bottom-up and RHPs heat the air. I'm guessing the heat tape is for creating the hot spot? I guess if you could clear some of this up I would greatly appreciate it. Also, is there any particular reason why you choose RHPs over Flexwatt? I noticed on the Animal Plastics website the have an add-on feature for an 11" flexwatt panel which looked rather attractive to a beginner like me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bdnorton48

I am currently using UTH/lighting with my glass tank so I have little knowledge on RHPs and Flexwatt. My understanding is that Flexwatt heats from the bottom-up and RHPs heat the air. I'm guessing the heat tape is for creating the hot spot? I guess if you could clear some of this up I would greatly appreciate it. Also, is there any particular reason why you choose RHPs over Flexwatt? I noticed on the Animal Plastics website the have an add-on feature for an 11" flexwatt panel which looked rather attractive to a beginner like me.

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So Flexwatt is just a brand of heat tape which is just another UTH type. They're used to create belly heat and a hot spot if you'd like. The RHP (radient heat panel) provides ambient heat temperature in the terrarium.

I use both the RHP and the heat tape because one creates ambient temps and the heat tape creates a hot spot.

You can either get the Flexwatt heat tape included with the AP terrarium or you can get one whatever size you want from reptilebasics.com I hope all of this makes sense. Lol.

Here's a great thread on Animal Plastic terrariums:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=165571

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr. Misha

So Flexwatt is just a brand of heat tape which is just another UTH type. They're used to create belly heat and a hot spot if you'd like. The RHP (radient heat panel) provides ambient heat temperature in the terrarium.

I use both the RHP and the heat tape because one creates ambient temps and the heat tape creates a hot spot.

You can either get the Flexwatt heat tape included with the AP terrarium or you can get one whatever size you want from reptilebasics.com I hope all of this makes sense. Lol.

Here's a great thread on Animal Plastic terrariums:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=165571

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Okay, so if I were to go with a herpstat 2 (definitely leaning towards this) I could hook one channel up to the RHP and one to the heat tape? I guess with never really messing around with heat tape I'm kind of unsure of how it works. Does it require any self wiring or is it pretty easy to hook up? Another question I have...is the redline feature for herpstats all just aesthetics? Thanks again for everything! You are a life saver

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bdnorton48

Okay, so if I were to go with a herpstat 2 (definitely leaning towards this) I could hook one channel up to the RHP and one to the heat tape? I guess with never really messing around with heat tape I'm kind of unsure of how it works. Does it require any self wiring or is it pretty easy to hook up? Another question I have...is the redline feature for herpstats all just aesthetics? Thanks again for everything! You are a life saver

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If you get the heat tape from Animal Plastics (which is an extra add-on) its kinda expensive. You can buy the heat tape from reptilebasics.com ($3 sqf) and wiring part of it and they'll hook it up for you. If you're interested in how to hook it up, google THG heat tape and they have directions on their website how to do it.

In regards to the Herpstat 2, yes, you can plug in both the UTH and the RHP. The redline feature is mostly aesthetics but I guess it would be a nice feature if you have it in the bedroom because at night the screen will be darker. The regular herpstat screen is a bit bright at night.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mr. Misha

If you get the heat tape from Animal Plastics (which is an extra add-on) its kinda expensive. You can buy the heat tape from reptilebasics.com ($3 sqf) and wiring part of it and they'll hook it up for you. If you're interested in how to hook it up, google THG heat tape and they have directions on their website how to do it.

In regards to the Herpstat 2, yes, you can plug in both the UTH and the RHP. The redline feature is mostly aesthetics but I guess it would be a nice feature if you have it in the bedroom because at night the screen will be darker. The regular herpstat screen is a bit bright at night.

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Awesome stuff! Just wanted to let you know where you helped get me to after everything. Looking at an AP T8, Herpstat 2 redline, 80 watt RHP, and will probably go with the heat tape from reptile basics. Just was wondering, when I order the heat tape (ordering a 2'x1' section) and select the "connect for me" option is that all I will need to do?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bdnorton48

Awesome stuff! Just wanted to let you know where you helped get me to after everything. Looking at an AP T8, Herpstat 2 redline, 80 watt RHP, and will probably go with the heat tape from reptile basics. Just was wondering, when I order the heat tape (ordering a 2'x1' section) and select the "connect for me" option is that all I will need to do?

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Sounds like you're on the right path. I think even though its a little bit expensive at first, you'll be really happy with it. Plus, if you ever decide to get another BP, you can always split the T8.

Yep, the "connect for me" option is exactly it when you include the connector set in the purchase.


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