Feeding Questions

I tried to feed Monty a f/t hopper last night, but he didn't take it. He seemed semi interested in it....he slithered around it and held his head over it & "yawned" right above it (thought he was gonna take it), but then retreated to his hide. I offered it on tongs, danced it around in front of him & then just left it in front of his hide overnight, thinking he may just want to be alone when he eats. It was still there this morning.

This was his first feed attempt with me. Should I wait until next week to try again? Or could I try something different today? I also redid his tank last night....could this have been too much for him in one day? I also added a second hide to the cool side & now he has been staying there, instead of the warm side. It's only about 74 degrees on that side. Do you think that could be because this hide is smaller & feels more secure? I don't want him to get cold. :( Should I change him warm hide to the same kind?

Thank you! :)

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Originally Posted by thejenius77

I tried to feed Monty a f/t hopper last night, but he didn't take it. He seemed semi interested in it....he slithered around it and held his head over it & "yawned" right above it (thought he was gonna take it), but then retreated to his hide. I offered it on tongs, danced it around in front of him & then just left it in front of his hide overnight, thinking he may just want to be alone when he eats. It was still there this morning.

This was his first feed attempt with me. Should I wait until next week to try again? Or could I try something different today? I also redid his tank last night....could this have been too much for him in one day? I also added a second hide to the cool side & now he has been staying there, instead of the warm side. It's only about 74 degrees on that side. Do you think that could be because this hide is smaller & feels more secure? I don't want him to get cold. :( Should I change him warm hide to the same kind?

Thank you! :)

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What are the warm side temps? Wait a week or two.

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Originally Posted by Physician&Snakes

What are the warm side temps? Wait a week or two.

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Warm side temps are ranging from 93-95. I have UTH and thermostat, but I didn't know I needed the thermostat until after the UTH was already in place, so it is taped onto the UTH with silver AC tape. I have about a 1/2-1" of cocunut husk.Hopefully I am getting correct readings. My next purchase is an IR gun, so I know for sure.

With waiting a week or 2....I'm worried she'll starve. :( She's already on the thin side, I believe. Ugh. And should I try F/T again, since that is my ultimate goal? Or should I go live?

Personally I would lower that warm side to 90F and up the cool side to 80F. 74-95F is a big difference, and I have heard that, due to respiratory risks, your amibent air should not drop below 75F. You can do this by adding a low wat heat bulb or red light. I use a 50W red light and it brings my glass vive to 79F on the cool side, 81F on the warm side when placed in the middle of the tank - although this can dry out the vive somewhat. But, I do have just a glass tank which is a whole other thing. :P
Just remember that BPs are from tropical Africa, and like it more moist and warm than we do :)

I think when those temperatures are changed a bit your snake will show more interest.

There are many threads about different techniques to try for picky eaters, as well! Try a search and see what comes up; there's lots.

Just one quick question, when you said you offered a hopper, did you mean a rat or a mouse hopper?

Good luck!


P.S.
How much does your snake weigh, and what age?

2 weeks without eating will definitely not starve her/him. They can go quite awhile without eating. As a hatchling mine went without for about a month and lost maybe a couple of grams.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thejenius77

Warm side temps are ranging from 93-95. I have UTH and thermostat, but I didn't know I needed the thermostat until after the UTH was already in place, so it is taped onto the UTH with silver AC tape. I have about a 1/2-1" of cocunut husk.Hopefully I am getting correct readings. My next purchase is an IR gun, so I know for sure.

With waiting a week or 2....I'm worried she'll starve. :( She's already on the thin side, I believe. Ugh. And should I try F/T again, since that is my ultimate goal? Or should I go live?

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She won't starve to death in 2 weeks, but you don't have to wait that long to try again either.

How old is she? How much does she weigh? Was it a rat hopper or mouse hopper?

I personally think you can try again in 3 or 4 days if you want. You can also try FT again if you choose. Keep an eye on her weight, though. If she keeps refusing to eat and starts losing weight, you will need to do some live feedings.

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Originally Posted by NH93

Personally I would lower that warm side to 90F and up the cool side to 80F. 74-95F is a big difference, and I have heard that, due to respiratory risks, your amibent air should not drop below 75F. You can do this by adding a low wat heat bulb or red light. I use a 50W red light and it brings my glass vive to 79F on the cool side, 81F on the warm side when placed in the middle of the tank - although this can dry out the vive somewhat. But, I do have just a glass tank which is a whole other thing. :P
Just remember that BPs are from tropical Africa, and like it more moist and warm than we do :)

I think when those temperatures are changed a bit your snake will show more interest.

There are many threads about different techniques to try for picky eaters, as well! Try a search and see what comes up; there's lots.

Just one quick question, when you said you offered a hopper, did you mean a rat or a mouse hopper?

Good luck!


P.S.
How much does your snake weigh, and what age?

2 weeks without eating will definitely not starve her/him. They can go quite awhile without eating. As a hatchling mine went without for about a month and lost maybe a couple of grams.

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I am also using glass. I have a 75w red light on the cool side, but it sure doesn't seem to be doing much. My house is pretty chilly in the winter time. I don't know what the ambient air is. I really need the IR gun. Today, I did add a towel to the top of the tank, that covers everything but where the light is. Hopefully that brings the temps up. I will bring the UTH down a few degrees.

I tried a mouse hopper.

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Originally Posted by 200xth

She won't starve to death in 2 weeks, but you don't have to wait that long to try again either.

How old is she? How much does she weigh? Was it a rat hopper or mouse hopper?

I personally think you can try again in 3 or 4 days if you want. You can also try FT again if you choose. Keep an eye on her weight, though. If she keeps refusing to eat and starts losing weight, you will need to do some live feedings.

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I'm not positive on his age. Or sex for that matter. LOL! But I was told that he is 6-9 months. I don't know his weight either. Next on my shopping list....scale. :)

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Originally Posted by thejenius77

I'm not positive on his age. Or sex for that matter. LOL! But I was told that he is 6-9 months. I don't know his weight either. Next on my shopping list....scale. :)

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If the age is correct and she's average size for her age, a mouse hopper is far too small.

Without a scale, you can eyeball the food. The prey item should be about as big around as the snake is wide at her widest part. Don't be fooled by the small head and thin neck relative to the wide part of her body...she'll get the food down if it's about as wide as her widest part. I would guess at least rat pups, maybe weaned rats, but mouse hopper is almost definitely too small.

Wait a few days, make sure all the temps are correct and the environment is all sorted out, get a bigger food item and try again.

Try a RAT! :) That seems to be what they prefer!

Rats are much larger than mice, and a mouse hopper seems awefully small... even for a hatchling BP. Go with the size of rat that equates to the thickest part of the snake.

You really should invest in a scale, as this is a very useful tool when feeding and keeping on eye on the health of your snake. You can get a digital scale from a big-box store for around $10. For hatchlings, the rule is 10-15% of their body weight for feedings.

I would think that with a 75W bulb your ambient air temp should be ok. How are you measuring - as in, where did the 74F come from? You will want a digital thermometer for measuring probably, as dials are not accurate. You can get a temp gun if you like :) I have both a digital thermometer stuck to the side and a temp gun (they are a bit expensive though, mine was $36 from a reptile shop).

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Originally Posted by NH93

Try a RAT! :) That seems to be what they prefer!

Rats are much larger than mice, and a mouse hopper seems awefully small... even for a hatchling BP. Go with the size of rat that equates to the thickest part of the snake.

You really should invest in a scale, as this is a very useful tool when feeding and keeping on eye on the health of your snake. You can get a digital scale from a big-box store for around $10. For hatchlings, the rule is 10-15% of their body weight for feedings.

I would think that with a 75W bulb your ambient air temp should be ok. How are you measuring - as in, where did the 74F come from? You will want a digital thermometer for measuring probably, as dials are not accurate. You can get a temp gun if you like :) I have both a digital thermometer stuck to the side and a temp gun (they are a bit expensive though, mine was $36 from a reptile shop).

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I have the Acu-Rite thermometer with the warm side probe and the unit on the cool side, that also measures humidity. :)

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Originally Posted by 200xth

If the age is correct and she's average size for her age, a mouse hopper is far too small.

Without a scale, you can eyeball the food. The prey item should be about as big around as the snake is wide at her widest part. Don't be fooled by the small head and thin neck relative to the wide part of her body...she'll get the food down if it's about as wide as her widest part. I would guess at least rat pups, maybe weaned rats, but mouse hopper is almost definitely too small.

Wait a few days, make sure all the temps are correct and the environment is all sorted out, get a bigger food item and try again.

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These are pics of him....when you say "widest part"...do you mean looking at him from left to right, or top to bottom. Sorry if that sounds like a stupid question. :/

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/...ps852084d0.png

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d37b8df.png

Looking from atop, usually. A rat hopper or pup should suffice, I would think. :) Maybe get both, and when you get your scale you can pick and choose based on the weight.

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Originally Posted by NH93

Looking from atop, usually. A rat hopper or pup should suffice, I would think. :) Maybe get both, and when you get your scale you can pick and choose based on the weight.

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I will try that instead. I'll try again on Monday. My son is here every other weekend & this is his Christmas present, so no messing with the snake this weekend. :P

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Originally Posted by thejenius77

These are pics of him....when you say "widest part"...do you mean looking at him from left to right, or top to bottom. Sorry if that sounds like a stupid question. :/

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/...ps852084d0.png

http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9d37b8df.png

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Usually left to right. If the rat is about as wide as the snake is wide, it'll work. Even a bit wider.

It doesn't need to be exact. If it's a little narrower or a little too big it'll still work. Just need to be in the right ballpark.

I'm having almost the exact same problem. As long as your temps and the prey size are right, try again next time. Sticking to a schedule is a good plan. For example, you wouldn't want to offer food to him again the next day; just wait until next week. Hopefully he'll be nice and hungry by then.

Keep us updated!