A few quick questions

I am hoping to get my first ball python sometime soon and I had a few questions.

The first I'm just curious, about what time in the evening do your snakes become active. I know this is a highly variable question because each snake is different. I'm really hoping that by around 8 or 9 at night that it would start to wake up and move around just because that is when we are home and relaxing in the living room. This would also be the time I would hope to be able to handle the snake. I have read a lot of different info about rooming a snake that has been sleeping from its cage. Some say its a big no no and others say its fine. Ideas and opinions?

Also I have gotten a LOT of varying information on what to feed and what size. What are, if any, the generally accepted guidelines for feeding?

I have also seen a lot of varying info about enclosure size (from 10 to 75 gallons for an adult). I am assuming as with most things bigger is always better but what is the best average size without busting the bank?

Are there generally any personality differences in gender (females more or less friendly etc) or is it all pretty well the same?

Thanks for all the information!

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Originally Posted by RobertsKitty

I am hoping to get my first ball python sometime soon and I had a few questions.

The first I'm just curious, about what time in the evening do your snakes become active. I know this is a highly variable question because each snake is different. I'm really hoping that by around 8 or 9 at night that it would start to wake up and move around just because that is when we are home and relaxing in the living room. This would also be the time I would hope to be able to handle the snake. I have read a lot of different info about rooming a snake that has been sleeping from its cage. Some say its a big no no and others say its fine. Ideas and opinions?

Mine come out around 7pm give or take but anytime in the late afternoon to late evening is when I see that most of mine are more active. As for disturbing a sleeping snake I take mine out when I need to regardless if they're in a hide or out and about: most are fine with it. At most some get a little spooked but I try to let them know I'm "there" by wiggling the hide they're in or gently touching them before holding.

Also I have gotten a LOT of varying information on what to feed and what size. What are, if any, the generally accepted guidelines for feeding?

I go by the 10-15% rule for younger BPs (feed a feeder that's 10-15% the weight of the snake) but eye balling the feeder is fine too (about the same size as the widest part of the snake). Once they get to adult size I do small-medium sized rats. I feed younger BPs 5-7 days and adults every 7 (when they're not off feed).

I have also seen a lot of varying info about enclosure size (from 10 to 75 gallons for an adult). I am assuming as with most things bigger is always better but what is the best average size without busting the bank?

I don't just tanks for the BPs but I use 15qts for younger balls up to 32 qt/41 qts for adults. Some use 4' cages for their adult BPs with success (or use a 4' cage and divide it for two smaller BPs).

Are there generally any personality differences in gender (females more or less friendly etc) or is it all pretty well the same?

I haven't seen any pattern with my balls as far as a certain gender or morph being more "friendly" or not.

Thanks for all the information!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by RobertsKitty

I am hoping to get my first ball python sometime soon and I had a few questions.

The first I'm just curious, about what time in the evening do your snakes become active. I know this is a highly variable question because each snake is different. I'm really hoping that by around 8 or 9 at night that it would start to wake up and move around just because that is when we are home and relaxing in the living room. This would also be the time I would hope to be able to handle the snake. I have read a lot of different info about rooming a snake that has been sleeping from its cage. Some say its a big no no and others say its fine. Ideas and opinions?

Also I have gotten a LOT of varying information on what to feed and what size. What are, if any, the generally accepted guidelines for feeding?

I have also seen a lot of varying info about enclosure size (from 10 to 75 gallons for an adult). I am assuming as with most things bigger is always better but what is the best average size without busting the bank?

Are there generally any personality differences in gender (females more or less friendly etc) or is it all pretty well the same?

Thanks for all the information!

---

1. Yea mine generally come out randomly in the evenings when the sun is setting or already set (That is completely dependent on them having natural light available via a winder for example) although BP's don't require a light cycle, they are obviously in tune with their instincts for being nocturnal. I have never heard of any problems arising from handling or do any necessary cage maintenance will do "damage" or is a no no.

2. I'm assuming based on it being November, you wont be getting a hatchling BP, but something that is a couple/few months old now, and whatever you get, even an undersized bp, should be able to take pinky rats (weigh AROUND 16 grams) without a problem. I am a believer in rats helping with good growth and you can save the trouble of making the hard switch later in its life. Get them on F/T pinky and fuzzy rats (or live if a picky eater, and the pinky/fuzzy wont harm your snake), and you wont have any problems feeding small- larger F/T when adulthood arrives.

3. As for caging, you said "bigger is better" which is not true at all in the case of Ball pythons. They need a secure housing with hides and the ability to hold humidity and heat well! This is nearly impossible with a "cage" or a fish tank is probably what you are referring to. You can save a lot of money by getting a steralite tub (appropriate size for snake size measured in quarts up to 40qt which is generally used to house adults) at walmart and soldering or drilling not to many, but a few holes in the sides, not the top to keep humidity up but allow ample ventilation. Plus you only have to deal with some sort of under tank heating whether it be heat tape, heat cable, heat mat, for a hot spot of no more than about 1/3 of the tub and the side with the hide. Then for ambient heat throughout the entire tub, a lamp far enough away to only provide a surrounding warm up, or a space heater in a small area like a closet or extra room to keep warmer.

Mine seem to come out (if I even see them) quite late at night! I very rarely see them unless I get them out from their hides to give them a good check over. I sometimes see my boys head peaking out from under his hide though! I take them out normally in the early evening unless I see one has made a mess/shed; then they come out when I see this :)

10-15% of the bodyweight or prey about the thickest part of the snake is the general rule of thumb for a younger snake as mentioned above.

I have one in a 3ft vivarium with a ceramic bulb and I have my others in tubs. My baby, babies are in 9l tubs big enough for them, two hides and a water bowl. I have another in a 12l tub, 2 hides - water bowl - and a bowl filled with sphagnum moss as he is in shed. And my other boy is in a 21l (I think! It came with him so not 100% sure it's exactly that size) Of course I'll be upgrading tubs as and when they grow!

My female pastel has been a little bit more feisty than my male BP but she has had some problems and I think a lot of it was due to my own inexperience also. I think temperament would differ slightly snake to snake rather than by gender. Most are very docile and tolerate being handled well. Handling with confidence over a period of time has been known to calm some very feisty snakes :)

It depends on how hungry my girl is or if I straightened up her enclosure that they. She is very curious if I straighten it up or add anything to it. I don't have a scale right now but will be getting one. I go by the largest section on my girl. On enclosures it all depends on what you want. Tubs are convenient, easy to clean, and don't take a lot of space I have my girl in a 20 gal long until I decide how I want to build a nice wooden display. I have coco husk, and moss with 2 terra cotta hides and water dish with some mopani wood inside. The outside has a uth, a blanket around 3 sides, saran wrap with foil, and towel over top and half the front. Also a 60 watt heat light as supplemental heat incase it gets cool in the house. Her temps stay between 85 at night and 92 during day warm side, and 78 at night and 83 during day cool side. Humidity unless she is shedding between 45 and 50, while shedding I hike it up to 70 to 75. So far haven't had a problem.

Where have you read that it's good to house an adult in a 10 gallon tank???? That is what you said above.

Dude,BPs,just don't wake up and slither around.. If you are looking for a display piece, your prob better off with some sort of lizard. BPs hide just about all the time. Mine just a bout never come out of there hide. Only when I throw live prey in or feeding.. I have caught them out at night like 3-4am and on occasion around 11pm. When I clean the tank,then they will be put for hours on end exploring,but I set it up exactly the same every time,so they are use to it.

my advise is DO NOT listen to the whole body weight percentage crap. it is just a hassle and a way for people to make things more complicated. the easiest way feed you snake is to judge the prey based on the girthiest/fattest part of your snakes body. It's that simple. You can even feed a a hair bigger than it's girthiest part of the body. That's what I do,I never have any feeding problems. Never

both my snakes are babies and are my first ones.One is 5 months ( housed in a 29 gallon high,same length as a 20 gallon long in length)the other 2 months old and housed in a 20 gallon long..it took me a bit to get my 29 gallon perfect in temps and humidity,didn't take long but I got it right.

i also have only 1 hide in each enclosure. They never use the cool one,so it's pointless . The only time they use the cool side is when they come out to explore. They like to be warm and if they need to switch hides,IMO,then your hot side is to hot. They live in Africa and don't have a cool hide and a hot hide,they have one where they live or reside. Africa don't have cool sides and hot sides.:confusd:.."......... This is my opinion. But you can have two,everyone's opinion Aries and no one is right.

My 20gallon I use coco husky,sphagnum moss mixture and a large water bowl center of tank and a double dome heat fixture on the hot side. One bulb for night and one for day. I keep a wet rag covering most of the top of th screen.


My 29 gallon use a double dome fixture( make sure it's ceramic),with one bulb for day and one for night. I cover most of the tank with a damp wett towel along top the screen And some of the tank with aluminum foil on the screen top,while leaving still some open screen for ventilation.i also use a 30-40 gallon UTH for the hot side and that's set and regulated and monitored at 89-91. This keep my tank set at a86-88 hot side and humidity averaging round 50. Although the UTH won't heat the tanks enclosure it heats a spot.

i have my hygrometer placed same spot in both tanks. Appx 4 inches from bottom up and placed center of the tanks. Common sense is that the cool side sing wold be more humid than the bit side and the hot side will be less humid than the cool side,so that's why I place the hygrometter where I do.works for me.i also keep a thermometer strip on only the hot ends of the tank,same thing abut 4 inches from the bottom up and in the center of the hot spot. I miso ne time a day,maybe 2 and wett the rag on top every morning and every nights before bed. It takes a little messing around with to get everything right,if you are new to this like I was.
But honestly,keeping a healthy enviroment for your snake is common sense and requires some effort and having $$ to be able to afford the utilites ( heating,bulbs,domes,UTHs,bedding etc) ,as well as the possibility of any vet bills. One thing I always say is ,If you are not financially stable,you shouldn't have a pet. They can be pricey. That is my opinion. Good luck

29 gallon

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9b160420.jpg
http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/...psca190d42.jpg

20gallon. I also have 2 hides in this tank,only cause he is small and I want him to feel safe. He never uses it.. Taking it out next time I fully clean the tank.
http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9877dd13.jpg
http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/...ps71fe0ea1.jpg

I also cover 3 sides of the tank with black construction paper...also get a infrared temp gun and a scale.. Scale is important,not only for weighing snakes,but if hey go off feed or get sick,u can atleast monitor them.

Where have you read that it's good to house an adult in a 10 gallon tank???? That is what you said above. I've read this online, it's not like OP is making it up. If you are completely new to BPs and you start googling, you will read that a 10 gallon is big enough, feed in separate enclosures, all kinds of things that you will later learn are incorrect. As you've pointed out so many times, we haven't all been blessed with your superior common sense. Some of us read something we aren't sure of, so we bring it to the forum to get clarification. Which is kind of one of the intended purposes of the forum.

Dude,BPs,just don't wake up and slither around.. If you are looking for a display piece, your prob better off with some sort of lizard. BPs hide just about all the time. Mine just a bout never come out of there hide. Only when I throw live prey in or feeding.. I have caught them out at night like 3-4am and on occasion around 11pm. When I clean the tank,then they will be put for hours on end exploring,but I set it up exactly the same every time,so they are use to it. OP didn't say he/she was looking for a display animal. He/she just asked when other peoples' BPs seem to be most active. The OP actually has a pretty good shot of having a BP who starts to become active around the hours that would be ideal for this family (8-9pm). Mine comes out every night (probably because I'm doing something wrong) and most other people say theirs come out in the evening/night.

my advise is DO NOT listen to the whole body weight percentage crap. it is just a hassle and a way for people to make things more complicated. the easiest way feed you snake is to judge the prey based on the girthiest/fattest part of your snakes body. It's that simple. You can even feed a a hair bigger than it's girthiest part of the body. That's what I do,I never have any feeding problems. Never. It's not a way for people to make things more complicated, nor is it crap. Look at the rep/previous posts/experience of people like Daybreaker. Can you really in good conscience suggest that new keepers follow your advice over hers? Personally, I don't weigh the prey. I eyeball it. This is an area where it really isn't right or wrong either way. If you insist on going against the grain, the least you could do is offer your way as an alternative rather than the absolute.

both my snakes are babies and are my first ones.One is 5 months ( housed in a 29 gallon high,same length as a 20 gallon long in length)the other 2 months old and housed in a 20 gallon long..it took me a bit to get my 29 gallon perfect in temps and humidity,didn't take long but I got it right.

i also have only 1 hide in each enclosure. They never use the cool one,so it's pointless . The only time they use the cool side is when they come out to explore. They like to be warm and if they need to switch hides,IMO,then your hot side is to hot. They live in Africa and don't have a cool hide and a hot hide,they have one where they live or reside. Africa don't have cool sides and hot sides.http://ball-pythons.net/forums/image...BJRU5ErkJggg==.."......... This is my opinion. But you can have two,everyone's opinion Aries and no one is right. You said this in another thread recently. You should go back to it and read Satomi's explanation of this. They do have the means to hide in a cooler or warmer spot in Africa, they just don't have plastic man-made caves that are strategically placed for them. Maybe sometime you should take a minute to go back to threads you've posted in and read the responses to you. I'd like to believe you might learn some things and start regurgitating accurate information instead of the same nonsense over and over.

My 20gallon I use coco husky,sphagnum moss mixture and a large water bowl center of tank and a double dome heat fixture on the hot side. One bulb for night and one for day. I keep a wet rag covering most of the top of th screen.


My 29 gallon use a double dome fixture( make sure it's ceramic),with one bulb for day and one for night. I cover most of the tank with a damp wett towel along top the screen And some of the tank with aluminum foil on the screen top,while leaving still some open screen for ventilation.i also use a 30-40 gallon UTH for the hot side and that's set and regulated and monitored at 89-91. This keep my tank set at a86-88 hot side and humidity averaging round 50. Although the UTH won't heat the tanks enclosure it heats a spot.

i have my hygrometer placed same spot in both tanks. Appx 4 inches from bottom up and placed center of the tanks. Common sense is that the cool side sing wold be more humid than the bit side and the hot side will be less humid than the cool side,so that's why I place the hygrometter where I do.works for me.i also keep a thermometer strip on only the hot ends of the tank,same thing abut 4 inches from the bottom up and in the center of the hot spot. I miso ne time a day,maybe 2 and wett the rag on top every morning and every nights before bed. It takes a little messing around with to get everything right,if you are new to this like I was.
But honestly,keeping a healthy enviroment for your snake is common sense and requires some effort and having $$ to be able to afford the utilites ( heating,bulbs,domes,UTHs,bedding etc) ,as well as the possibility of any vet bills. One thing I always say is ,If you are not financially stable,you shouldn't have a pet. They can be pricey. That is my opinion. Good luck. No one said anything about financial stability. The original poster might even have more money than you, if you can believe it! Wouldn't that be something?? And it's insulting to other members when you say (about three or four times a day) that this is all "just common sense". It's not. A lot of people here have put a lot of time into figuring out the best way to do this, through trial and error. Those people have spent a ton of money and a ton of time to share their findings with those of us who don't know. It's not "just common sense." Every time you get ready to type out, "this is all just common sense" think about the efforts of people FAR superior to you in this area whose work and knowledge you are devaluing. Until I can absorb it all to the degree that I'm confident answering important questions with 100%, I'm not going to pretend to have all the answers. You should try it. I'm proof, you can participate on the forum without pretending to know everything.

It's not too late to start acting like a decent human being and if you do, you'll be accepted and one day you'll be laughing with everyone else on here about what a jerk you used to be. Think about it.

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Originally Posted by RobertsKitty

I am hoping to get my first ball python sometime soon and I had a few questions.

The first I'm just curious, about what time in the evening do your snakes become active. I know this is a highly variable question because each snake is different. I'm really hoping that by around 8 or 9 at night that it would start to wake up and move around just because that is when we are home and relaxing in the living room. This would also be the time I would hope to be able to handle the snake. I have read a lot of different info about rooming a snake that has been sleeping from its cage. Some say its a big no no and others say its fine. Ideas and opinions?

Also I have gotten a LOT of varying information on what to feed and what size. What are, if any, the generally accepted guidelines for feeding?

I have also seen a lot of varying info about enclosure size (from 10 to 75 gallons for an adult). I am assuming as with most things bigger is always better but what is the best average size without busting the bank?

Are there generally any personality differences in gender (females more or less friendly etc) or is it all pretty well the same?

Thanks for all the information!

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I have noticed my specimens out at varying points during the day and night, it's really an individual thing. My female tends to come out in the mid afternoon then retires to her cool hide around 4pm, then usually spends most of the morning in her warm hide...my male seems to stay in his hide for the better part of the night, but I usually see him on his favorite stump when I walk through about 11am. I eye ball my prey items, some people will measure out grams and set out strict 10-15% guidelines, this is fine, but I am a little bit less technical and just give my specimens prey that puts a slight lump in them, I feed babies every six days and adults every 7-14 days...the general rule for babies is every 5-7 days and adults every 7-14 days. If you are looking for something display worthy then I would recommend a nice 4ftX2ftt cage for an adult (costs ~250 after shipping). Put in a nice philodendron, some naturalistic hides, nice substrate (I use a mixture of coconut coir and cypress mulch), some logs, etc... . If you want to see the specimen often, then I suggest getting a brightly colored morph like albino or possibly a nice fire since normals can get a bit hard to spot in a nice display cage with plenty of hides (which is necessary). I started my first specimen in a 10-gallon tank 8 years ago, and he is still with me today, nice and strong...the minimum size for a hatchling is a 15qt tub...if you ask me though, a 32qt is minimum for hatchlings and 106 qt for adults, but I am known to give extra space when I can. There are about a million different ways to keep these guys.

Thank you BrandiR for your understanding and support of my starting out into the world of snakes. I do not understand people who feel the need to draw conclusions based on assumptions. I appreciate your sticking up for my attempts to learn so that I may better the experience for myself and my new addition Loki.

Thank you everyone for all your information! It has been a wonderful help!

I don't know if it will be seen at the bottom of the thread but can someone help me get a good feeding schedule for a 360 gram, 20" long male BP? I was thinking one small rat every 7 days. Is this good or should I change it?

Thanks again everyone!

7 days sounds good for a 360g BP in my opinion. I have snakes on either end of that scale. My pastel is around 260g empty and my het albino boy is around 550g empty and both are on a 7 day schedule. For a 360 I would be on small weanlings which vary in weight from around 26g to 50g. Are you planning on feeding Frozen thawed? If so you could ask the supplier to give you some of the larger small weanlings so that you're not feeding too little. I think (although I may be wrong) that a small rat is too big for a 360g BP. My 550g boy is only on large weanlings (between 51-80g according to a comparison site I found online)

Here is the link I got that information from, the weights of course aren't set in stone but give a good rough guideline:

http://www.frozenfeeder.com/sizing.html

As I said if you are feeding F/T you can ask the supplier to weigh the food and even ask what they might suggest if you are buying in hand and not online. If he is eating the small rat though I may be wrong, not sure if you are asking in advance or if this is what the BP is already eating?

Hope I've helped a little bit, this is just from my very short experience! Trust me you get used to it very quickly though and soon you will forget what it was like before you had your BP. Good luck :D

First find out what he is currently eating, then go from there. I might have missed it, is this from breeder?

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Remember go by the largest section or weight of your bp.how old is he? I am going to guess under a year. If I'm wrong sorry. You can also get rat hoppers as I call them if they are appropriate sized. They are just like mouse hopper just in rat size lol. I have hodes on BOTH sides of my cage. Plus the water dish in the center is a kind of hide. My girl goes on all of them or she will sit and look out her "window" area lol. She's been a lot more active last couple days so I need to get her some food. I personally would never house an adult bp in a 10 gallon. 20 long atleast and that is what I start hatchlings in with a lot of appropriately sized hides. I will also cover the outside completely for a while till it got acclimated and relaxed. Good luck in what ever you decide.

The guy I bought him from said one small rat every 7 days but he also said he would eat rats or mice and frozen or live which seems contradicting to the finicky eating I've heard so I'm not sure if he was just trying to make a sale. That's why I was wanting to ask. So pups or smalls?

I would suggest a small weanling rat, sounds right size and weight wise :)

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Originally Posted by RobertsKitty

I am hoping to get my first ball python sometime soon and I had a few questions.

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Hi! I just got my first, and probably only, ball python in September. I got a male normal who was born on June 11. Hubby and I named him Skull and we enjoy him thoroughly.

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The first I'm just curious, about what time in the evening do your snakes become active. I know this is a highly variable question because each snake is different. I'm really hoping that by around 8 or 9 at night that it would start to wake up and move around just because that is when we are home and relaxing in the living room. This would also be the time I would hope to be able to handle the snake. I have read a lot of different info about rooming a snake that has been sleeping from its cage. Some say its a big no no and others say its fine. Ideas and opinions?

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Skull tends to get active after I get home from work around 5 pm. He'll stay active anywhere from an hour to three hours except on the days we feed him. When we feed him, ZIP off he goes to his warm hide. He also gets active in the wee morning hours although we're not sure for how long or precisely when as hubby and I tend to be in bed. I just know that when I've gotten up to use the bathroom at 3 or 4 in the morning, Skull is sometimes out and about. When he's hungry, he tends to be active for longer periods of time. Right after he's fed, we don't see anything but his nose peeping out of his hide for right around 24 hours, sometimes a little longer.

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Also I have gotten a LOT of varying information on what to feed and what size. What are, if any, the generally accepted guidelines for feeding?

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As a new keeper myself, this is something that I've struggled with a bit. Due to my misunderstanding of what my boy's breeder was doing, I'd been under feeding Skull. :oops: I didn't understand that the breeder was feeding him rats from day one. I was feeding him mice which were much too small and I've been given to understand that rats are better for ball pythons than mice. We've recently remedied that and are now feeding him a rat pup every 5 days. We tend now to go by feeding a prey item that is just a little larger than his girth.

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I have also seen a lot of varying info about enclosure size (from 10 to 75 gallons for an adult). I am assuming as with most things bigger is always better but what is the best average size without busting the bank?

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Skull is in a 20-gallon tank that was previously used by a local pet store here to house a snake. We got the tank for $40. My husband spent a few days scouring and sterilizing it. Skull is about 20 - 22 inches long (our best guess, he doesn't hold still too well for measuring :P ) and as of a few days ago, weighs 129 grams. We have two hides, one warm and one cool. He uses both of them. We also have a sturdy water bowl and climbing tree of dried grape vine. When Skull is active, he spends quite a bit of time slithering around on the grape vine. He also has a tendency to ball up on the humidity sprayers we have at the top of his tank leading us to think that there may be a bit of tree boa in his ancestry. ;)

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Are there generally any personality differences in gender (females more or less friendly etc) or is it all pretty well the same?

Thanks for all the information!

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As a first time keeper myself, I really don't know about gender personality differences. We picked Skull up at a reptile show. We got him because of all the breeders in the place, the breeder we bought from had the healthiest looking animals. The breeders were, and still are, completely awesome in answering our N00B questions. We picked our boy specifically because he looked healthy, lively and I loved his coloring. When we handled him at the show, he was alert, seemed curious but didn't seem the least bit stressed or agitated. I do recall that I did ask the breeder about size differences and only looked at males because we wanted a snake on the smaller end of the spectrum. Skull does tend to be more active than other ball pythons. The breeder told us that he was much more active than his clutch mates from day one.

I wish you luck in your quest to find a snake. I can tell you that my husband and I enjoy our Skull a great deal. I'm really happy that we decided to make the leap and get him.

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Originally Posted by RobertsKitty

The guy I bought him from said one small rat every 7 days but he also said he would eat rats or mice and frozen or live which seems contradicting to the finicky eating I've heard so I'm not sure if he was just trying to make a sale. That's why I was wanting to ask. So pups or smalls?

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Some balls will eat anything so it probably wasn't a sales pitch, however the do get stressed from the move so I would first try the size the breeder is feeding as that is what he is used to. I would say for the first feeding go with a small, judge the size of the rat to be the same or a lil bigger than the widest part of the snake

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Originally Posted by NYHC4LIFE8899

Where have you read that it's good to house an adult in a 10 gallon tank???? That is what you said above.

Dude,BPs,just don't wake up and slither around..

But honestly,keeping a healthy enviroment for your snake is common sense and requires some effort and having $$ to be able to afford the utilites ( heating,bulbs,domes,UTHs,bedding etc) ,as well as the possibility of any vet bills. One thing I always say is ,If you are not financially stable,you shouldn't have a pet. They can be pricey. That is my opinion. Good luck

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Disagree!

My ball actually DOES wake up and slither around! I have been noticing it more and more, even during the day light. 5pm is around the time he wakes up and starts checking out different hides, 8-10pm is when he's most active, as sometimes sits right under his red bulb - even though he's got a nice warm UTH. However I have been noticing him watching me during the middle of the day, or going to get a drink of water, etc.
Again, as the OP understands, all snakes are different.



Good luck OP! :) You sound like you are on the right track. Keep it up!

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Originally Posted by NH93

Disagree!

My ball actually DOES wake up and slither around! I have been noticing it more and more, even during the day light. 5pm is around the time he wakes up and starts checking out different hides, 8-10pm is when he's most active, as sometimes sits right under his red bulb - even though he's got a nice warm UTH. However I have been noticing him watching me during the middle of the day, or going to get a drink of water, etc.
Again, as the OP understands, all snakes are different.



Good luck OP! :) You sound like you are on the right track. Keep it up!

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Mine use one hide only,both of them..they very rarely if ever explore out of there hides.once in a while in the middle of the night I'll catch them. They ever jus hang out of there hides and if so,I'd assume something is off in the enclosure ..yeah they all are different I guess...only reason I can assume they constantly come out and explore and change hides is cause there hot side is too hot and there hungry and under fed..in Africa,they don't have cool hides and hot hides or cool sides and warm sides..they reside in a single hide until whenever they decide to find another,in Africa it's just hot on average. This is just my opinion. I don't believe snakes need two hides if your temps are all good they will be happy and warm in just one..once again in my opinion and what I seen from my friends who have boas and ball pythons...to each there own.

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Originally Posted by NYHC4LIFE8899

Mine use one hide only,both of them..they very rarely if ever explore out of there hides.once in a while in the middle of the night I'll catch them. They ever jus hang out of there hides and if so,I'd assume something is off in the enclosure ..yeah they all are different I guess...only reason I can assume they constantly come out and explore and change hides is cause there hot side is too hot and there hungry and under fed..in Africa,they don't have cool hides and hot hides or cool sides and warm sides..they reside in a single hide until whenever they decide to find another,in Africa it's just hot on average. This is just my opinion. I don't believe snakes need two hides if your temps are all good they will be happy and warm in just one..once again in my opinion and what I seen from my friends who have boas and ball pythons...to each there own.

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In Africa are they kept in a fish tank? Are they fed routinely on a 5-7 day schedule? Are they grabbed and handled by a owner? Ohh no they aren't cause this isn't Africa. Probably the most ignorant thing I keep reading you saying. Along with your all mighty common sense

How can a snake thermo-regulate if they only have one choice? It isn't going to be a constant 30 degrees in Africa, most BP keepers have their hot end at a constant temperature. In Africa it surely cools at night therefore the snakes one hide will be suitable as a hot hide during the day and a cooler hide at night?

Just my thinking...

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Originally Posted by NYHC4LIFE8899

Mine use one hide only,both of them..they very rarely if ever explore out of there hides.once in a while in the middle of the night I'll catch them. They ever jus hang out of there hides and if so,I'd assume something is off in the enclosure ..yeah they all are different I guess...only reason I can assume they constantly come out and explore and change hides is cause there hot side is too hot and there hungry and under fed..in Africa,they don't have cool hides and hot hides or cool sides and warm sides..they reside in a single hide until whenever they decide to find another,in Africa it's just hot on average. This is just my opinion. I don't believe snakes need two hides if your temps are all good they will be happy and warm in just one..once again in my opinion and what I seen from my friends who have boas and ball pythons...to each there own.

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What thermostat do you use for your heat source?

Africa is a very dynamic continent...with drastic changes as you move from country to country. This is a very good read on climate and weather variation in terrestrial ecosystems...
http://journals.ametsoc.org/doi/abs/...C%3E2.3.CO%3B2

Of course they don't have hot sides and cool sides in Africa. They're not kept in a box in Africa either.

If the rat hole they're in gets too hot, they crawl out of it and under a log that's a bit cooler. That gets too cold, they find another rat hole that's a bit warmer. No sides, just tons of microclimates that vary every few feet. They find what they want/need and move to a new one when they need it.

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Originally Posted by Daybreaker

What thermostat do you use for your heat source?

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You can't have an opinion as to how something behaves in the wild or how the climate is.
"In Africa it gets down to 8* in July sometimes so they knit sweaters out of shrubbery to keep warm, they don't even need hides. But that's just my opinion."

Do you understand?

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Originally Posted by BrandiR

You can't have an opinion as to how something behaves in the wild or how the climate is.
"In Africa it gets down to 8* in July sometimes so they knit sweaters out of shrubbery to keep warm, they don't even need hides. But that's just my opinion."

Do you understand?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

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I don't know why I quoted this. I meant to quote the snarky New Yorker, in reference to constantly offer his "opinion" on things that can be determined by fact.

If I had any common sense I could propbably figure out Taptalk!

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Originally Posted by BrandiR

I don't know why I quoted this. I meant to quote the snarky New Yorker, in reference to constantly offer his "opinion" on things that can be determined by fact.

If I had any common sense I could propbably figure out Taptalk!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

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Omg that made me chuckle lol

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As far as active time, if I happen to be/get up between midnight and about 2am, my girl will sometimes be hanging out on top of her logs looking to come out of her enclosure. Doesn't happen when Millie's in shed or digesting, but it's lots of fun when she does. She'll even crawl right out into my hands. Wonderful for snake bonding time (please ignore anthropomorphism), bad for sleep schedule. :cool:

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Originally Posted by RobertsKitty

I am hoping to get my first ball python sometime soon and I had a few questions.

The first I'm just curious, about what time in the evening do your snakes become active.

Also I have gotten a LOT of varying information on what to feed and what size. What are, if any, the generally accepted guidelines for feeding?

I have also seen a lot of varying info about enclosure size (from 10 to 75 gallons for an adult). I am assuming as with most things bigger is always better but what is the best average size without busting the bank?

Are there generally any personality differences in gender (females more or less friendly etc) or is it all pretty well the same?

Thanks for all the information!

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Great choice! Ball pythons are awesome snakes to keep.

You don't have to worry about them becoming active to hold them. I get mine out whenever i feel like it. The only time it isn't a good idea to handle them extensively is roughly the first 24hrs after they've eaten. I handle mine briefly right after they eat if i have to clean their tub or something but for the first 24hrs i wouldn't handle for any length of time.

Feeding depends on what size they are. A good rule to go by, for the first year of their life, is to feed them a rodent roughly the same size as the widest part of their body. Once they're adults you don't have to follow that rule though. An 80-125g rat (live or frozen thawed) every 7-10 days is fine for an adult bp. That isn't a set rule or even exactly what i do, its just a general recommendation that someone new to the hobby like you would be fine following. :gj:

I'd forget the tanks, I'd recommend a tub or pvc enclosure. You can keep an adult bp in a 32qt tub perfectly fine. I'd get one with locking handles. For bigger females (over 2000ish grams) i'd recommend something a bit bigger like a 41qt tub. There are a lot of good companies that make pvc enclosures that work, one good one is Animal Plastics. Under "terrestrial cages" the T3 would be perfect for an adult bp, either sex.
http://www.apcages.com/

No difference in temperament as far as sex or morph really. Depends on the individual.

As I said in a much earlier post I don't think there is much of a difference in temperament between male snakes and female snakes but I think I have a slightly stroppy female whereas my males are just delightful. I had my pastel out today and as she tried to delve into a coat on the sofa I scooped her out and was met with a striking snake (mouth open, if I was in range I would have joined the bite club). If this had happened even 2 weeks ago I would have been freaked out, I laughed at her, made her ball up and kept holding her! She will be conditioned ;)

In comparison my boy was plopped on my neck while I walked around and apart from having a little delve into my hair (I usually tie it up) he just sat there, moved around slightly and came off easily. My hatchling spider boy was very active and inquisitive, I only had him out for a minute as he only joined us 3 days ago but he shed today so I took him out to check him over.

Three very different responses from the three out today :)

I have 3 guys and 3 girls. I think my pastel is simply a feisty snake rather than a feisty female. Snakes can be calmed though with time so I wouldn't let it worry so much, it's a learning curve but never the end of the world. Males generally cost less, that is about the extent of difference between them :)

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Originally Posted by Daybreaker

What thermostat do you use for your heat source?

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There are no thermostats in Africa!

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Originally Posted by BrandiR

There are no thermostats in Africa!

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You're kidding...right???