New Ball not feeding

Hey guys so I have had my female ball for a week now and when I got her the pet store lady gave me a live mouse for her but she never ate it. Now a week later I got a frozen froze and thawed it out but she still won't feed. When should I be worried? Thanks in advance

Obviously if the seller gave you a live mouse then that's what it was previously eating. When did you first attempt to feed and what did you do with the mouse after it was refused?
You should have waited the week to let her acclimate and settle into her new environment before trying to feed.
If she was on live she may not take f/t. How did you warm up the frozen mouse?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

I waited almost 2 weeks to feed mine. I fully thawed out a small mouse at room temp in a zip lock and not in water,then put the heat light above it for like 5 minutes or more ,Dangled it in the tank and he snatched it. Been good since.

Make sure the frozen thawed is fully thawed and warm, it works for me. Haven't fed him live yet,when I do,I'm site it won't be a problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Crazymonkee

Obviously if the seller gave you a live mouse then that's what it was previously eating. When did you first attempt to feed and what did you do with the mouse after it was refused?
You should have waited the week to let her acclimate and settle into her new environment before trying to feed.
If she was on live she may not take f/t. How did you warm up the frozen mouse?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

---

I attempted to feed the night i got her, because the pet store lady tried to feed her at the store before i got her. the mouse was refused and is now a pet of a friend...i thawed out the mouse in the fridge over night then put it under the heating light for a few minutes before attempting to feed. I understand she probably had live mice before, but i need to take steps to convert her to frozen/thawed and i am willing to be patient.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NYHC4LIFE8899

I waited almost 2 weeks to feed mine. I fully thawed out a small mouse at room temp in a zip lock and not in water,then put the heat light above it for like 5 minutes or more ,Dangled it in the tank and he snatched it. Been good since.

Make sure the frozen thawed is fully thawed and warm, it works for me. Haven't fed him live yet,when I do,I'm site it won't be a problem.

---

okay, thanks! thats how i thawed this mouse out as well. Did you take your snake out of the enclosure to feed to just leave it in? And is there any way to make sure the snake knows the mouse is there? I know this will sound stupid, but my girl just climbed around the sides of her tank and did not even acknowledge the mouse at all

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eazyyyb

okay, thanks! thats how i thawed this mouse out as well. Did you take your snake out of the enclosure to feed to just leave it in? And is there any way to make sure the snake knows the mouse is there? I know this will sound stupid, but my girl just climbed around the sides of her tank and did not even acknowledge the mouse at all

---

Moving her to a separate enclosure is a sure way to make sure she doesn't eat. Feed in the same enclosure.

To make switching to f/t easier, sometimes you can't just toss the corpse in there. You have to do a bit of a "zombie dance". If you don't already, get some feeding tongs or long hemostats. Thaw the rodent like normally and then take your hemo's or feeding tongs and pinch it behind the head/shoulder area. Then quietly open up the tub and kind of walk him around like's he checking out the snakes pad. Try to simulate what the live mouse/rat normally does when you drop him in. Usually the snake will poke his head out and start flicking his tongue. Keep moving the mouse around and they'll usually come out and grab it. You have to be subtle...don't smack the snake around on the head with the mouse...yeah...people have come on this forum and recommended that. :rolleyes:

Switching from mice to rats is a whole 'nother topic...:rolleye2:

Are you just dropping it in there? You definitely want to use feeding tongs and entice the snake. Make sure it's a little warm to the touch, like a mouse would be. Feed in the enclosure, don't take her out, it will just stress her out, and she'll be less likely to eat, and you're also more likely to get bit.

A lot of people wait a week to try to feed after getting a new baby, just so they get used to their new enclosure. I was able to feed mine only 4 days after I got her though. How are your temps and humidity? Can you describe your set-up?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shera

Are you just dropping it in there? You definitely want to use feeding tongs and entice the snake. Make sure it's a little warm to the touch, like a mouse would be. Feed in the enclosure, don't take her out, it will just stress her out, and she'll be less likely to eat, and you're also more likely to get bit.

A lot of people wait a week to try to feed after getting a new baby, just so they get used to their new enclosure. I was able to feed mine only 4 days after I got her though. How are your temps and humidity? Can you describe your set-up?

---

First of all thank you! and my humidity gauge is in the mail arriving on tuesday so unfortunately i do not know the humidity, but the tempertature is around 84 right now, and the enclosure is a 20 gallon tank with a sliding wire top, and i have an UTH on the right side with a log hide on top, and on the left side there is a water bowl and artificial plants and another wood piece to hide/shed on. the floor of the tank is currently reptile felt type deal, but i am switching to snake bedding later this week when i get my paycheck. I do not have feeding tongs yet (i just got her monday by the way) but i am sure i can find something around the house that will do the trick.

First off... those log hides are less than ideal... they like to feel snug inside there and it should only have one entrance.
Is the ambient temp 84? Do you know the temp above her uth?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Crazymonkee

First off... those log hides are less than ideal... they like to feel snug inside there and it should only have one entrance.
Is the ambient temp 84? Do you know the temp above her uth?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4

---

well the half log thing is pretty small compared to her so it is a squeeze, i do not know the temperature above the uth but the current thermometer (i new, more accurate one is in the mail) is near it. And by ambient temperature do you mean the overall temp in the enclosure? If so it is probably around 82~85 because the light fixture i forgot to mention is above the side of the tank opposite the UTH

Here is a decent picture of the set-up if that helps

http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/...psee13f07e.jpg

Just tried to feed by lowering thawed mouse in tank with tongs, still will not feed. For the record I have now had her for 1 week so she hasn't eaten in atleast 1 week (probably more unless she was fed the day before I got her and I don't think she has) I understand BPs often skip meals and fast and all, I just wish she would feed so I could stop worrying about it :tears:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sho220

Moving her to a separate enclosure is a sure way to make sure she doesn't eat. Feed in the same enclosure.

To make switching to f/t easier, sometimes you can't just toss the corpse in there. You have to do a bit of a "zombie dance". If you don't already, get some feeding tongs or long hemostats. Thaw the rodent like normally and then take your hemo's or feeding tongs and pinch it behind the head/shoulder area. Then quietly open up the tub and kind of walk him around like's he checking out the snakes pad. Try to simulate what the live mouse/rat normally does when you drop him in. Usually the snake will poke his head out and start flicking his tongue. Keep moving the mouse around and they'll usually come out and grab it. You have to be subtle...don't smack the snake around on the head with the mouse...yeah...people have come on this forum and recommended that. :rolleyes:

Switching from mice to rats is a whole 'nother topic...:rolleye2:

---

"Moving her to a separate enclosure is a sure way to make sure she doesn't eat." I'd hate to differ from you here, but I move mine to a seperate enclosure for every feeding and dont have a single problem. This is a bad statement!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shera

Are you just dropping it in there? You definitely want to use feeding tongs and entice the snake. Make sure it's a little warm to the touch, like a mouse would be. Feed in the enclosure, don't take her out, it will just stress her out, and she'll be less likely to eat, and you're also more likely to get bit.

A lot of people wait a week to try to feed after getting a new baby, just so they get used to their new enclosure. I was able to feed mine only 4 days after I got her though. How are your temps and humidity? Can you describe your set-up?

---

Why does a lot of people think moving them will be problems? Ive been moving mine for years now and havent been bit yet in that process. I have been bit while my hand was in their enclosure, but never during feeding. YES it is easier, maybe less stressful, but if thats the way you start out feeding them they seem to get use to the process. Just my thoughts.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ROACH

Why does a lot of people think moving them will be problems? Ive been moving mine for years now and havent been bit yet in that process. I have been bit while my hand was in their enclosure, but never during feeding. YES it is easier, maybe less stressful, but if thats the way you start out feeding them they seem to get use to the process. Just my thoughts.

---

hmmm that does make sense, thanks. Ill contact the pet store tomorrow and find out if they have been moving her to feed in the past

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ROACH

"Moving her to a separate enclosure is a sure way to make sure she doesn't eat." I'd hate to differ from you here, but I move mine to a seperate enclosure for every feeding and dont have a single problem. This is a bad statement!

---

But the thing is, its not good advice to say its OK to keep moving and bothering a snake that isn't an established feeder either.

If you want to feed your animal in another enclosure, that's fine. If thats what works for you and your snake, great! You know your animal will eat and what its stress limits are.

The snake in question is new and clearly not eating for a reason. That reason probably being stress. Whether its stress from poor husbandry or over stimulation or whatever. Moving it back and forth or even just short handling sessions are not helping this animal settle down to eat.

Most people here will tell newbies not to feed in a separate enclosure. Its not a rule set in stone, but guidelines to help new keepers care for their animals with the best efficiency and results. Once they become more experienced and learn about their animal, they can tweak their care methods to what works best for them and their animals. Just like how you know your snake can feel comfortable and is an aggressive eater to feed in a separate enclosure.

I personally have a few BPs that can probably feed in a separate enclosure with no issue. But I also have some that wouldn't dare look at a feeder if it wasn't in its own tub. In the end. I just feed everybody in their own enclosure because I know the limits of my snakes and what they can and can't handle. And I know my snakes generally have a stronger feed response in their own comfortable space. Why stress them out unnecessarily?

And since the OP's snake is new and not established yet, its probably the better course of action to feed in its own enclosure for the time being. Maybe once the snake becomes a strong constant feeder, the OP can choose if they want to feed in another enclosure or not.

I'm not disagreeing with you. Only that I don't think its appropriate for the OPs particular snake at this current time.

OP: can you describe your set up? Leave your snake alone for a week to settle down. It needs time to adjust to its new home

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by satomi325

OP: can you describe your set up?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

---

Nevermind. I see your picture and post now. For some reason I couldn't see it before.

I suggest covering the sides and back of the enclosure with black paper or background paper. It will make your snake feel more secure. Clear glass will sometimes make them feel exposed and vulnerable. More cover and a snug hide will probably help as well.


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

The thing about the half log hide is it has two entrances, and that's why we never recommend it to people.

I wouldn't move any of my BP's to another enclosure, while sure some people do and it works for them it's not going to for everybody. I would never recommend it to another person simply because not all BP's will eat when being moved from their normal enclosure and a BP will eat in it's own enclosure if it eats from being moved as well. That's all that they're saying ROACH.

You want to give the snake a thermal gradient so it can regulate it's body temperature the way it wants to. Depending on the size of your snake try a mouse hopper(but only if it's a good meal for the snake). I don't see your snake and pictures can lie so I wouldn't attempt to judge size by a picture. Some snakes will never eat f/t but then some will switch to f/t once their feeding response has kicked up. So while you're trying to get your BP to eat, I would stick to live until she's eating regularly for you or at least two meals.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by satomi325

But the thing is, its not good advice to say its OK to keep moving and bothering a snake that isn't an established feeder either.

If you want to feed your animal in another enclosure, that's fine. If thats what works for you and your snake, great! You know your animal will eat and what its stress limits are.

The snake in question is new and clearly not eating for a reason. That reason probably being stress. Whether its stress from poor husbandry or over stimulation or whatever. Moving it back and forth or even just short handling sessions are not helping this animal settle down to eat.

Most people here will tell newbies not to feed in a separate enclosure. Its not a rule set in stone, but guidelines to help new keepers care for their animals with the best efficiency and results. Once they become more experienced and learn about their animal, they can tweak their care methods to what works best for them and their animals. Just like how you know your snake can feel comfortable and is an aggressive eater to feed in a separate enclosure.

I personally have a few BPs that can probably feed in a separate enclosure with no issue. But I also have some that wouldn't dare look at a feeder if it wasn't in its own tub. In the end. I just feed everybody in their own enclosure because I know the limits of my snakes and what they can and can't handle. And I know my snakes generally have a stronger feed response in their own comfortable space. Why stress them out unnecessarily?

And since the OP's snake is new and not established yet, its probably the better course of action to feed in its own enclosure for the time being. Maybe once the snake becomes a strong constant feeder, the OP can choose if they want to feed in another enclosure or not.

I'm not disagreeing with you. Only that I don't think its appropriate for the OPs particular snake at this current time.

OP: can you describe your set up? Leave your snake alone for a week to settle down. It needs time to adjust to its new home

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

---

Yes I understand your point, and a stressed BP needs to be relaxed first. Im starting to think about feeding in their enclosures also myself due to so many and time wise it will be easier for me. I was just saying that even my new additions I have feed the next day after arrival and had no problems. Just lucky!!!!! I do agree though, less stress you can put on the baby the better!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eazyyyb

I attempted to feed the night i got her, because the pet store lady tried to feed her at the store before i got her. the mouse was refused and is now a pet of a friend...i thawed out the mouse in the fridge over night then put it under the heating light for a few minutes before attempting to feed. I understand she probably had live mice before, but i need to take steps to convert her to frozen/thawed and i am willing to be patient.



okay, thanks! thats how i thawed this mouse out as well. Did you take your snake out of the enclosure to feed to just leave it in? And is there any way to make sure the snake knows the mouse is there? I know this will sound stupid, but my girl just climbed around the sides of her tank and did not even acknowledge the mouse at all

---

no,I feed mine in the enclosure. I been advised by a few friends to do so. I have tongs so I hold the f/t mouse by the tail and move it around,he smells it and grabs it within sconds. I think since the stress easy moving them constantly to feed them will only put more stress on them,plus after he eats I do t wanna bother him and pick him up. I have handled him many times and never ever strikes at me,he's actually quiet timid and very nice. After it's thawed,I put the mouse on top the screen and open the ziplock so he can smell it and once he gets a whiff,he's out and his tongues going. He knows it's feeding time.

im100% new a this!I just gt my firs snake3 weeks ago.What works for me is what I'm telling u...hope it helps

Wow, thanks everyone! So this is what ill do, I'll get a new hide and ditch the half log, and I won't handle her all week and ill attempt feeding again this weekend with a live mouse

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eazyyyb

Wow, thanks everyone! So this is what ill do, I'll get a new hide and ditch the half log, and I won't handle her all week and ill attempt feeding again this weekend with a live mouse

---

From my experience, security and proper temps is very important in the first few weeks of getting a bp. This is usually the reason for the bp to go off feed evern if they've never skipped a meal at the store.

So, my advice - wrap 3 sides of the glass enclosure with dark paper. Replace the log with something that looks more like a cave. An appropriate-sized flower pot with a hole carved out of one side will do. Or even an opaque tupperware. The hide needs to be small enough that the snake's body touches the sides as he is curled up inside. Have 2 of these hides - one on the cool end one on the hot end. Then clutter up the place so that the snake slithers under something to move from one side to the other as it thermo regulates. Crumpled up newspaper will do. Check your temperatures so that the hot end is 92-95F and the ambient (general air temp inside the enclosure) is at 82-85F. Check the humidity so that it is above 50%. To raise it, you can use a bigger water bowl (a sturdy tupperware will also work here) or add a container of damp moss. Usually the ceramic heat lamp sucks out humidity.

Okay, after you got that all settled (don't worry about aesthetics right now if it's too much work to get it done, you can always redo the tank later when the snake is more established), give the snake a few days to settle (don't worry, they won't die of starvation that quicky unless your snake is really sick). Then feed small live rat (if it's the proper size or you can use mouse).

Okay, this is my snake's set-up the day I brought my snake home. I left her in here for a few days then I moved her to an opaque tub to feed and she ate right off. No problem. Now, I feed live rat and if you see the enclosure, it is a rat heaven with tons of places the rat can hide forever inaccessible to the snake... and it will be difficult for me to interfere incase the rat takes a swipe at my snake. So, I feed all my snakes in a separate feeding tub. No problems at all. If you don't have this same challenge, or if you feed frozen/thawed, it is better to feed in the enclosure to avoid having to move the snake.

Every single one of my snakes are transitioned this way (except for my very first one - I was a newbie and didn't know what I was doing).

So here's a picture of my snake's house to give you an example of how "cluttered" it is. It was a baby snake, under 200 grams if I'm not mistaken, so I put her in a 10-gallon (the smaller the better for baby snakes). I moved her to a 20 once she reached 500 grams and moved her to a 30 when she got past 1500 grams. She's a big girl.
http://s314.photobucket.com/user/ana...photo-36-1.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eazyyyb

Wow, thanks everyone! So this is what ill do, I'll get a new hide and ditch the half log, and I won't handle her all week and ill attempt feeding again this weekend with a live mouse

---

Thats a start, but its the rest of your setup that concerns me the most. I cannot see a thermostat in the pic, and do not see anywhere you mentioning that you are controlling BOTH the heat lamp and the heat mat with a thermostat of some sort. If you are not, get one, and get one now, while your at it get a IR thermometer so you can measure the surface temperature on the hot side (over the heat mat) and get that adjusted with the thermostat to about 91 (or at minimum a probed thermometer). Ignore calling the pet store about if they fed in the enclosure or not, judging by what you got the snake in, they are clueless about proper care. Another member mentioned blacking out three sides of the tank, that would also be a good thing, will help the snake feel more comfortable.

Thank you guys so much. I have a thermometer on the side of the tank with the UTH that stays around 82~85. A new thermometer and humidity gauge will be here in the mail tomorrow which will go on the opposite side for ambient temp regulation. I will ditch the half log and get 2 new hides tonight as well as covering 3 sides of the cage.

Question: should the "hot side" have both the UTH under and the lamp above?

My tank set ups as,2 hides,one on hot side one on cool...a heat mat on the warm side and a uv and heat bulb I thug warm side as well..a red light night time heat bulb at night also. A heat strip thermometer on the hot side and a dial hygrometer in the middle of the tank ,leaning more towards the warm side...some plastic plants on both sides and a wet rag on the top of the screen covering 60% of the screen.. My humidity I keep at 55-70 and the tempos the hot side is always around 86-88.. I also spray mist the tank2-3 times a day to keep humidity up. I have no thermostats set up controlling anything. My snakes uses both hides fine,eats regularly,but I have him only 3 weeks and is yet to shed,has pooped a dissed normally. A few buddies that have snakes have the same set up as me,which is where I gt my advice from,also spoke to a guy at the recent reptile expo who had a few bps and also told me the same set up he has that I now have,he as well don't have anything regulating his lamp and pad. Neither do my friends. I also have the back of the tank covered and that's it,not the sides. My one friend has the same be up as me and hissed tail boa was one foot when he got it,4 yrs later it's now about 5 and eating and shedding perfectly fine.

You will drive yourself insane if u try to control every single inch of humidity t the cool side to the warm side,u will go nuts,cause don't forget the inside temp your place will also affect the temp and humidity,that's common sense. Keep it simple,he will be fine.

here is my set up http://imgur.com/8gjLvzX

the bottom tank is what I'm starting to get set to get my second BP and the LI reptile expo on Oct13

Are you actually measuring the temperature of the hot spot on the floor? If not you definitely should be. Those UTHs can get WAY too hot. Is your BP hanging out on the hot side at all? An unregulated hot spot could be a part of your problem. You should really have a thermostat to control that (you can get a cheaper on/off kind for ~$30), and failing that, at least a lamp dimmer and thermometer with probe (but you will be in there several times a day adjusting it if the room temps aren't extremely stable). If you do not have a thermometer on the hot spot, or any kind of regulation, unplug it until you do, your BP will be better off with too little heat, than too much.

ETA: I personally do not agree with what NYHC4LIFE8899 said. A thermostat isn't necessarily needed, but I have run my Zoomed UTH full and it gets up over 125F. That is not an ideal, nor is it a safe temperature for a BP. At the very least you should have a dimmer and be measuring the floor temps with a probe thermometer or temp gun.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shera

Are you actually measuring the temperature of the hot spot on the floor? If not you definitely should be. Those UTHs can get WAY too hot. Is your BP hanging out on the hot side at all? An unregulated hot spot could be a part of your problem. You should really have a thermostat to control that (you can get a cheaper on/off kind for ~$30), and failing that, at least a lamp dimmer and thermometer with probe (but you will be in there several times a day adjusting it if the room temps aren't extremely stable). If you do not have a thermometer on the hot spot, or any kind of regulation, unplug it until you do, your BP will be better off with too little heat, than too much.

---

i have a strip thermom about 4" above the UTH and the snake doesnt seem to mind, she is there alot, in fact she is there right now

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eazyyyb

Question: should the "hot side" have both the UTH under and the lamp above?

---

I have a single heat lamp in the middle to bring the ambient temp up to about 80-83F. A dimmer can be used with the lamp as well since enclosure temps will vary with room temps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eazyyyb

i have a strip thermom about 4" above the UTH and the snake doesnt seem to mind, she is there alot, in fact she is there right now

---

Ok, that's not going to tell you the floor temps, I would highly suggest a probe thermometer (Often under $10 in the aquarium section), or a temp gun so you know what the actual temps are.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shera

Ok, that's not going to tell you the floor temps, I would highly suggest a probe thermometer (Often under $10 in the aquarium section), or a temp gun so you know what the actual temps are.

---

okay, thanks ill get a temp gun on thursday (i need that paycheck :rolleye2:)

Until you get a thermostat unplug your UTH, if it's running unregulated it will get hot enough to burn your snake, which means a vet bill - and that's not cheap.

You're in Morgantown, I'll assume you didn't shop at Scales & Tails - and if you did, let me know so I can kick the owner because I know he knows better than to sell that setup for a ball python. Heck I buy stuff from them and it's a three hour drive one way.

You don't have to go expensive on hides, even crumpled up newspaper will work. Even the small flat-rate boxes from USPS also work, just cut off the tab that has the adhesive before you fold it up and put it in the tank. If it gets soiled toss it and make another one, they're free after all, and you're obviously on a budget.

Before I wised up I bought those wood hides too. I'm going to burn most of them in my wood stove this winter, as that's about all they're good for.

There are a ton of herpers in Morgantown, check out the groups WV Reptiles and WV Exotics on Facebook.

Just realized the photo I included did not show up. Lets try this again. Just something to give you an idea.

http://i314.photobucket.com/albums/l...photo-36-1.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bcr229

Until you get a thermostat unplug your UTH, if it's running unregulated it will get hot enough to burn your snake, which means a vet bill - and that's not cheap.

You're in Morgantown, I'll assume you didn't shop at Scales & Tails - and if you did, let me know so I can kick the owner because I know he knows better than to sell that setup for a ball python. Heck I buy stuff from them and it's a three hour drive one way.

You don't have to go expensive on hides, even crumpled up newspaper will work. Even the small flat-rate boxes from USPS also work, just cut off the tab that has the adhesive before you fold it up and put it in the tank. If it gets soiled toss it and make another one, they're free after all, and you're obviously on a budget.

Before I wised up I bought those wood hides too. I'm going to burn most of them in my wood stove this winter, as that's about all they're good for.

There are a ton of herpers in Morgantown, check out the groups WV Reptiles and WV Exotics on Facebook.

---

okay thanks, and i got her from animal house on high street. I also see you are from the eastern panhandle, and i am as well, where are you from?

Eazzy, about your question of UTH and heat lamp...

The UTH provides underbelly heat on the hot end under the hide. This hot end needs to be close to 90 (temp gun or thermometer probe sitting right on the UTH under the substrate. All of mine are set between 92-95 (fluctuates between these ranges depending on the house temperature). I live in Florida so my house is set at 78-80 all year long.

The heat lamp may be used to raise the ambient temps if your house is set so that the air temps in the enclosure is lower than 80. In my house, the heat from the UTH is enough to keep the ambient temps around 82 for most of the year. So I don't bother with the heat lamp. Florida winters can get to freezing so the house gets cold for a few weeks. I use the heat lamp then for supplemental heat to raise the ambient temps to around 82.

Basically, you want a temperature gradient of about 10 degrees within the 82-92 range, give or take a couple degrees.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Eazyyyb

okay thanks, and i got her from animal house on high street. I also see you are from the eastern panhandle, and i am as well, where are you from?

---

Inwood address but on the west side of I-81, not in town.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bcr229

Inwood address but on the west side of I-81, not in town.

---

cool man! im from charles town, like 10 mins from inwood

Just to make sure you are getting what bcr229 and I are saying, it seems to be getting lost in all tve other junk. You need a thermoSTAT to control the temp of your heat mat, My opinion is you should also have one to control the temp of the lamp. The thermoMETER will only tell you the temp and you need one to measure the surface temp on your heatmat. Somewhere on here is a geat write up on how to setup up a glass tank, search that out and read through it, good info.