Just Some Pictures

SMILE !!! https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...77520465_n.jpg

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...84351420_n.jpg Just chilling in her new dish


Yea its my old dogs water dish she out grew it a long time ago, and now she been chilling in it most of some part of the day, I live in a desert so yes today was hot and she has been a bit dry and well chilling in her smaller bow I figured I would give her this one to drink from and submerge when she gets to hot or dry.


She is still Un-named... >.<

Ok its its like 8 now here an I posted this 1 hour ago and she is still in the water..... getting a little concerned should I remove her from it or should I just let her be?


Cause isn't scale rot from her being in the water too much?

BP's tend to soak a lot if they have mites. Is there any chance she could of came across them?

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Originally Posted by Southern_Breeder

BP's tend to soak a lot if they have mites. Is there any chance she could of came across them?

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I will be OUT RAGED! if she did... Thank you for this I will check her water when she moves, she just ate last night so as you can tell I don't want to mess up her digestion, I didn't see any on her when I did adopt her, hmmm I will check for sure!

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Originally Posted by Zombietox

I will be OUT RAGED! if she did... Thank you for this I will check her water when she moves, she just ate last night so as you can tell I don't want to mess up her digestion, I didn't see any on her when I did adopt her, hmmm I will check for sure!

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How long have you had her? Also, is her belly pink? I have a few that soak when they're shedding even if I bump the humidity up over 70%. Perhaps they were BRB's in a prior life...

Putting her on paper towels might make it easier to spot any mites.

She could be soaking because her temps are too high, and trying to cool off, she also could be soaking due to mites. If you put her on papertowels, that will make it easier to see mites. I have never seen any of my snakes soak. How are you measuring her temps? And what are they? Also, those half log hides are horrible for bps, they dont provide enough security. I would get her some more snug and secure hides.

Like DooLittle mentioned as well, 1/2 logs are not the best hides, these are very popular: http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

Oh yes I know about the logs, but that is half of her tank, I have a big log in there the small one will be getting out and I have the logs for helping her shed, I been looking into other things she can grow into but being at her size I am unsure what is to small or to big?

As for when I got her, and she ate a rat the same day she NOMED quickly (must have been hungry!!!) umm Tempature, it 80's including at night and moisture is no issue it rained heavy. I live in a desert so its moist in here I have the window open (to allow no mold to happen)


Umm I think I answered everything?


ROFL I got her yesterday

She also needs a hot spot of 90. And no, you didnt answer how your measuring temps? You dont want hides they can " grow into". You will have to buy multiple as she grows. They need to be snug and dark and secure. They dont need logs to help them shed. They can rub against the glass or themselves, as long as your humidity is right, shedding won't be a problem. Mine shed their skin into a little roll, inside their hides. As previously recommend the reptile basics hides are the best, imo. Also, please read over this-

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1410665

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Originally Posted by DooLittle

She also needs a hot spot of 90. And no, you didnt answer how your measuring temps? You dont want hides they can " grow into". You will have to buy multiple as she grows. They need to be snug and dark and secure. As previously recommend the reptile basics hides are the best, imo. Also, please read over this-

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1410665

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OH Measuring Temperature I have a Gage in her tank measuring heat/and/Humidity, as for the hot spots With the tank light not on its in the 80's Like Specifically its 88-89 and through the hottest time it reaches in the 90's which I do get scared but its said 90's are fine...

They need a gradient. 80 ambient, with 90 hot spot. They HAVE to be able to regulate their heat. Does she have this? Did you read the caresheet? Trying to help your snake here. Also stick on gauges are terribly inaccurate. What are you measuring humidity with? A stick on gauge? You need to go to Walmart and get an accurite thermometer. It will measure your hot side, cold side, and humidity.

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Originally Posted by DooLittle

They need a gradient. 80 ambient, with 90 hot spot. They HAVE to be able to regulate their heat. Does she have this? Did you read the caresheet? Trying to help you're snake here. Also stick on gauges are terribly inaccurate. What are you measuring humidity with? A stick on gauge? You need to go to Walmart and get an accurite thermometer. It will measure your hot side, cold side, and humidity.

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Ok so here tank is in my dresser as for the hot area than cool area yes, The closest part to my wall (outside wall) hits higher than the side where her water is, which is of course closest to me, and this area is cooler than most of her tank I do have a lamp that heats her tank to have hot warm and cool area. So Yes she does have this for herself

Hey zombie, just wanted to clarify that we need the exact temps that she has in her tank, rather than 'cool' or 'hot'. Can you measure those temps specifically with a temp gun or digital thermometer?

You NEED to be measuring her temperatures with a PROPER thermometer. The one you have is junk and is definitely not reading correctly. You can't just be guessing on whether the tank is hot enough or not.

Can we see a picture of the entire tank as apposed to just this one side? Would help for us to give suggestions about possible ways to make your new no legged friend happy and comfy.

Well... She has mites.... I picked off about 6-7 adult mites with of course wetting my hand and taking them off, so now she is at the store receiving treatment... Ugh I am just pissed she got them.

I'm not surprised. Your other one had mites too, didn't it?

I looked up this Scales n Tails and they sure do have a lot of bad reviews.

I don't know how taking her to the store will help kill the mites. You've had her for two days and she came from that store. The mites also came from that store.

You want to treat her at home. Don't end up returning a third snake to that pet store and giving them your money a fourth time.

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Originally Posted by Artemille

I don't know how taking her to the store will help kill the mites. You've had her for two days and she came from that store. The mites also came from that store.

You want to treat her at home. Don't end up returning a third snake to that pet store and giving them your money a fourth time.

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Oh no I aint paying them, I getting this for free cause it was THEIR mistake to let it happen.

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

I'm not surprised. Your other one had mites too, didn't it?

I looked up this Scales n Tails and they sure do have a lot of bad reviews.

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Starting to not like the store very much only other one we have around me is Called Jurassic Pets, and well they are dumb as rocks when it comes to knowing anything about ball pythons they just sell them.

You're still bringing your snake into where it originally got mites. Unnecessary stress.

Yeahhhh, I would have ponied up the few $'s for some PAM and done it myself. I havent encountered a mite issue, yet I still keep the stuff in my handy dandy 'snake fix it tub o stuff'.

* side note* I arez a happy snake momma, Cheddar ate his first meal with me today. The switch to live went without a hitch.

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

You're still bringing your snake into where it originally got mites. Unnecessary stress.

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I would rather bring her back where she is from and where she can get treatment FIRST time ever I have experienced mites, so I would not know where to look. As I talked to tommy they said she was INFESTED so her tank is now cleaned everything boiled and baked to death, still waiting for her to come home my mother inlaw is PISSED and well I am a very passive person... so she is coming with me when I go back and possibly getting something fixed I don't think I will be buying my rats there now....


Rats can carry mites Correct? Cause she seemed fine until she ate than she baithed ALL NIGHT and than I took her out and saw the mites

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

I'm not surprised. Your other one had mites too, didn't it?

I looked up this Scales n Tails and they sure do have a lot of bad reviews.

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Forgot to tell ya no Xeno (had broken ribs that healed when i got him :( which I honestly wish If I had more experince with snakes I would have loved to keep him and hopefully get him to adult, but with andy not saying much I am thinking Xeno didn't survive long I will be checking in on Zari (my female snake) Tomorrow I will ask how the baby is doing if he is ok.


and now he didnt have mites I am thinking Someone sold her to them and she had them, None of the other snakes in the store had mites o.O

As far as hides go, I use shoe boxes. It gives them total enclosure and security. They all love them.

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Originally Posted by Zombietox

I would rather bring her back where she is from and where she can get treatment FIRST time ever I have experienced mites, so I would not know where to look. As I talked to tommy they said she was INFESTED so her tank is now cleaned everything boiled and baked to death, still waiting for her to come home my mother inlaw is PISSED and well I am a very passive person... so she is coming with me when I go back and possibly getting something fixed I don't think I will be buying my rats there now....


Rats can carry mites Correct? Cause she seemed fine until she ate than she baithed ALL NIGHT and than I took her out and saw the mites

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You're bringing her back to get treatment where she probably got the mites.

And the mites on rats aren't snake mites. Mites are animal specific. As far as I know.

Considering that mites can't really be killed when ON the snake, since it's terrifically possible to poison your snake by treating it directly, it's best to simply treat the enclosure with PAM or an equivalent. It's incredibly effective with little risk to your snake when applied correctly. Anything applied directly to the snake stands too much of a risk of poisoning.

DONE!! With scales and tails DONE!!

Called today Xeno died..... :( he was such a sweet baby


Zari is STILL infested and REALLY BAD! to the point for 1 week they have been having trouble controlling the mites... they are soaking her daily and still finding more... I am sad I have to say no but I am done with scales and tails


First sell me a snake with broken ribs, and second snake sold to us with Mites....

Anyone know Much about Jurassic Pets? I am thinking about going there

I will be notifying someone I know about her condition. (zari)

Maybe you should just not have a snake.

Mites are hard to control with a collection, but you have one snake. Why don't you treat it before rushing out and getting another one

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Maybe you should just not have a snake.

Mites are hard to control with a collection, but you have one snake. Why don't you treat it before rushing out and getting another one

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Well she is being treated and has been for a week now, Now how I am understanding them she aint getting any better...


ALSO when my mom inlaw bought her snake a while a ago M&M which is dead now she had mites on her too.


On top of it all They blamed us for breaking his ribs and Zari getting Mites like WHAT!??? I didnt handel him for 1 week and when I did I saw the ribs... and HOW in the world would zari get mites when there are no SNAKES!!!?

Honestly I WOULD NEVER USE Pam or any house hold things due to clogging there scales or skin..

I am going to be talking to jurassic park about treatment that I can do at home, but with buying something that works like I seen Snakebytes tv use something that kills the mites in there bedding and while they slitther around helps kills the ones on them.

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https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...78237274_n.jpg


There it is in the picture too the Proto mite I think its called

The PAM that was referred isn't the cooking spray, it's provent-a-mite, which is a treatment spray designed for reptiles. It's safe if you use it according to directions. Alternatively, I believe petco/petsmart have mite treatments as well. Just make sure you read the directions carefully and don't overdo it.

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Originally Posted by MootWorm

The PAM that was referred isn't the cooking spray, it's provent-a-mite, which is a treatment spray designed for reptiles. It's safe if you use it according to directions. Alternatively, I believe petco/petsmart have mite treatments as well. Just make sure you read the directions carefully and don't overdo it.

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-shudder- at the name petco and OMG THANK YOU!!! LOL I litterally thought they meant about cooking spray LOL!!


OH WAIT! I see now the stuff I posted in the picture Scales and tails dont carry.... and Jurassic does... Well that explains allot.... /sigh

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Maybe you should just not have a snake.

Mites are hard to control with a collection, but you have one snake. Why don't you treat it before rushing out and getting another one

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Or ya know Get it from someone I can trust! -.- Ugh

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Originally Posted by Zombietox

Or ya know Get it from someone I can trust! -.- Ugh

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Or do some research before just going in any store and buying something..

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Or do some research before just going in any store and buying something..

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well my family chose xeno without me knowing (broken ribs)

and I chose zari ... I should have taken a closer look about her but I trusted them.... /sigh you cant trust anyone in this world

And this folks, is why you don't buy people pets as gifts.

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Originally Posted by Zombietox

well my family chose xeno without me knowing (broken ribs)

and I chose zari ... I should have taken a closer look about her but I trusted them.... /sigh you cant trust anyone in this world

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So you get a snake with broken ribs, go back to the same store get a snake with mites, get a third snake from this store that also has mites, then take the snake to this store to be treated for said mites? How hard is it to learn a lesson? And you shudder at Petco? You, also, are getting some pretty good advice from experienced people here and completely disregarding it. It's time to open up your mind and rethink things if you want to be successful in this hobby.

Snakes take a lot more time, effort, stress, understanding and energy than most ppl think. My 2 have drained me more than my almost 6 month old golden retriever pup. I understand your family started this by purchasing one as a gift, however, you are the caregiver. It's completely up to you to learn care, maintenance and proper treatment.

Mites are 100% treatable at home. Less stressful to the snake than a trip to an incompetent pet store as well. My suggestion is that you start doing a LOT of reading and slowly build a snake care box. Everything you need to maintain your new no legged friend from PAM to extra bedding, a soaking/ temp tub for cleaning or bad shed due to poor humidity. I keep spare bulbs of various wattages for the inevitable time one burns out or the temps change and I need one stronger. But then, I tend to lean on the side of overkill and preparedness.

Good luck to you and to little Zari.

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Originally Posted by treeboa

So you get a snake with broken ribs, go back to the same store get a snake with mites, get a third snake from this store that also has mites, then take the snake to this store to be treated for said mites? How hard is it to learn a lesson? And you shudder at Petco? You, also, are getting some pretty good advice from experienced people here and completely disregarding it. It's time to open up your mind and rethink things if you want to be successful in this hobby.

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Yeah petco was my first snake that had LITERALLY seizures!

Did you even read his post?

Like seriously, people are trying to give you advice and all you do is flip em off.

Gosh some people are just pro at being ****s online. To someone who actually rescues animals and take them into my care Gee know nothing about the person and how much they actually love there animals but hey its easy cause you dont gotta care for the person who is thinking there doing the right thing.

Well dont wonder why when your on the block list =)

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Did you even read his post?

Like seriously, people are trying to give you advice and all you do is flip em off.

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Said stuff about petco... Yea Petco can take my dead snake down there mouth and let it rot


If your guys way of giving advice is be belittling someone than I am guessing I am on the wrong kind of forums.

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Originally Posted by Zombietox

Gosh some people are just pro at being ****s online. To someone who actually rescues animals and take them into my care Gee know nothing about the person and how much they actually love there animals but hey its easy cause you dont gotta care for the person who is thinking there doing the right thing.

Well dont wonder why when your on the block list =)

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So giving advice to someone who obviously won't do their own research makes us bad people?

I've rescued quite a few animals. You should know their care before even trying to "rescue" an animal.

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Originally Posted by Zombietox

Yeah petco was my first snake that had LITERALLY seizures!

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If he had seizures, why were you do surprised he passed, and then didn't know what happened?

From your thread last year:

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Originally Posted by Zombietox

Well most of you know me through my questions about my bally python, Well I awoke today with him stiff as board.....


We are Unsure why he died my motherinlaw her boyfriend and my husband bought Bumble bee tuna at Petco for me and well he would hardly eat, they said they been feeding him Thawed mice, and we could switch him any time. So switched him to live.


We have pinned it down to two things, he was sick to begin with or a mouse bit him. Now we believe more he was sick to begin with cause my motherinlaw bought M&M from Scales and tails and shes about 4yrs old now and was the same being fed thawed...... but than turned to alive

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You have been given tons of advice, in all of your posts, with all of your snakes. And more than one of your snakes has passed way, and they all have had some sort of problem. And seemingly mostly minor problems that you could have corrected. I am beggining to wonder what the common denominator is. Perhaps you should start taking some of this advice, and doing some more research before you decide to be responsible for another snake.

Zombie... Very simply put, you either have the WORST luck on the face of the planet or you have a lot of learn about raising ball pythons. <my vote is the latter in this situation>

I'm going to shut up now, wouldn't want to be blocked now would I? ... Myself and several other have offered you very good advice <all I have given I have learned from these guys because I flipping LISTENED to ppl much more experienced than I and my snakes are doing wonderfully> that you have straight up ignored or made excuses for why you aren't doing what YOU should be doing.

Rescues? Dude. You can't rescue an animal without really knowing anything about how to care for it... if you go in blind, you're no better than the pet store, sorry.

Anyways, I've never had any snakes yet myself, I will admit. However, my research tells me the same things that everyone else will tell you in this thread. Experienced users, please correct me if I'm wrong/let me know if I'm overstepping my bounds; I have yet to actually have any snakes, so I dunno if my advice is truly valid since it's based on reading only.

You need a dependable temperature and humidity monitoring system. A stick-on thermometer won't cut it; you need something with a probe. For humidity, you also need to find a good hygrometer. I think there's an AcuRite thermometer that also measures humidity, although I'm not personally acquainted with its accuracy, so older members please correct me if I'm wrong: http://www.acurite.com/weather/humid...red-probe.html
This general caresheet will give you temp and humidity specifics: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...s%29-Caresheet

Temps need to be kept as a gradient so your snake can thermoregulate properly. There should be a "cool side" and a "warm side". This is also why it's important to have a good thermometer. Temps that are too high or too low could hurt your snake. On that note, each side should have a snug, identical hide so that your snake feels comfortable no matter what side it's on. A hiding ball is a happy ball. This thread shows fine examples of good hides: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...0-Hides-my-way

Also, I've noticed that you're using a tank setup. I plan on a rack system w/tubs myself, but this sticky should help you out when you reconsider your current setup: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...p-w-pics-*DUW*

You should also probably get a temp gun so you can further monitor your temps.

Hey, what substrate is that? Remember, woods like pine and cedar could potentially harm your snake.

The other members of the thread talked about how to use Provent-a-Mite already, but there was a great post about it made recently in another thread that I can't seem to find. >_<;

I would like to note that you are not being attacked by anyone in this thread. Rather, we wish to help you care for your snake so that the two of you don't have to go through so much heartache in the future. I apologize in particular if I come off as a rude, uppity, arrogant know-it-all, but I love snakes too much to just ignore this thread. Remember, bro, ignorance can be just as bad as intentional abuse/neglect in some cases!

Moon, spot on.

I've personally written out how to EXACTLY set up her ball pythons habitat, and she ignores it.

She just doesn't seem to care/understand that this isn't just something you feed once a week and give water to. They're not cheap, and take a LOT of time to be properly cared for.

I'll post this again. Maybe she'll actually take it in this time.

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Fine.

TANK:

Any type of heat sure, whether it's a lamp or heat pad MUST be regulated. Heat pads will reach unsafe temperatures in a matter of minutes. You MUST have a thermostat.

The best you can buy are herpstats.
http://www.spyderrobotics.com

The cheaper option:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...ords=Hydrofarm

When you get your thermoSTAT, you plug your heat pad into it. You take your probe and secure it OVER the heat pad on the OUTSIDE of your tank.

Do NOT have the thermoSTAT probe inside the tank, as your snake can move it, pee on it, and will ultimately screw up your probe reading.

If you use a lamp, which most will suggest against, buy a light dimmer. They're about $10 from home depot and allow you to adjust how much heat is coming from the lamp.

Lamps will kill your humidity. Many will suggest covering half your lid with tinfoil/plexiglass/wet cloth. Misting will also help. Also, do not get white bulbs.

After your thermostat, a temp gun will be a wise investment. Or you can purchase a digital thermometer with probe. Many will suggest an Accurite, while others disagree. If you get an Accurite, you place the entire unit in the cage. The probed bit will be secured on top of the glass over your heat pad so you are able to monitor and be sure your thermostat is working properly. The unit goes on your "cool" side to monitor ambient temperatures.

You are aiming for:

Hot spot: 88-91 degrees
Cool side: 78-80 degrees
Humidity: 50%

When your snake goes into shed, you will need to boost your humidity up to 60-70%.

Inside your tank you will need:

-two identical hides. Find ones that are small enough to wrap your ball python around all sides and only have one entrance. Those log hides at the pet stores are terrible. One goes on the warm side, the other on the cool side.

-Water dish. If you get a large water dish, you can place it somewhat over your heat pad to help even more with humidity.

-Proper substrate. If you are using a tank, id suggest Eco earth or coco fibre as they help hold in humidity.

TUBS:

If you are able to keep your room at a stable 80 degrees, you will be able to keep your ball python in a tub set up.

Tub set ups may not be the prettiest, but are much easier to maintain humidity than a tank.

Find a large Rubbermaid container with a locking lid. Depending on your room humidity, drill holes along the sides using a soldering drill. The amount of holes will vary. Be careful as you can add more, but can't cover them up if you drill too many.

Just like a tank, you will place the heat pad on one side of the tub, with the thermoSTAT probe over the heat tape. With a thermostat, you will not have to worry about the tub melting as it should never get over 92 degrees.

Set your tub up like a tank. Add your substrate, water dish, hides and thermometers. You can also add fake leaves and branches.

FEEDING:

You'd be surprised to learn that hatchling ball pythons can eat hopper sized mice right out of the egg.

I'd suggest going to Walmart and picking up a cheap kitchen scale to monitor your baby's weight.

Babies can generally eat 10-15% of their weight every 5-7 days.

I feed my mouse eaters and babies on a 5 day schedule. My rat eaters are fed every 7 days.

As your snake gets older, try to match their food with the thickest part of their body.

Once you get your set up done, leave your snake alone for a week. The only time you are in the cage is to change water and clean poo. No touching him/her. Once the week is over, offer your mouse. I'm sure they'll take it.

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I've thankfully never have had to deal with mites.

I found this on LLLReptiles website:

The steps that follow are the most sure-fire, proven methods for mite eradication. Although it may be possible to treat mites successfully while eliminating a step or two, it is not recommended. Doing so may result in your snake still having mites in the end, and you having wasted your time.

Step 1
Get the supplies. You will need a secure plastic tub (Rubbermaid, etc) that your snake fits in. You will also need some products to actually kill the mites. We recommend Reptile Relief by Natural Chemistry (to treat the animal) and Provent-A-Mite by Pro Products (to treat the enclosure). Both of these products are available all the time from LLLReptile.com or by phone order. Avoid home remedies that you may have heard of. We have seen these prove harmful, or even fatal to snakes.

Step 2
Treat the animal. Put your snake into the plastic tub, and spray it liberally with the Reptile Relief, coating the animal from head to tail. (See the directions on the Reptile Relief bottle for further information) You will now allow the animal to sit for 15 to 20 minutes while all of the mites on your snake are killed. After the alotted time, rinse the snake well with clean water, and rinse out the tub as well. Now soak the snake again for another 15 to 20 minutes, this time in chin deep clean water. This will prevent your snake from becoming dehydrated, as the Reptile Relief works by drying out the mites. In the 30 or so minutes required to treat the animal, you can begin working on the cage.

Note: We recommend re-treating the animal only, as just discussed, two more times, one week apart, to eliminate any chance of mites re-occurring.

Step 3
Treat the enclosure. Eliminating the living mites on the snake is only half the battle. There are still live mites (and mite eggs) in the enclosure that must be eliminated to prevent re-infestation. First, remove all of the cage decor (wood, hide boxes, water dishes, etc.) All of these items will need to be thoroughly cleaned in a water and bleach solution. This is best accomplished by soaking the items in another large tub or trash can. Make sure that no part of the items are above the water level. The mites will climb up to prevent drowning, so the entire object must be submerged. You will need to let these items soak for about 20 minutes. While this is soaking, remove and discard all of the substrate (bark, sani-chips, etc) from your enclosure. To actually clean the cage you can use any mild cleanser, Zoo Med's Wipe Out #3 cage cleaner, or even better, the Reptile Relief can be used directly on the cage surfaces. Wipe down all surfaces thoroughly, and rinse with water if you suspect any residue. To get your cage glass sparkling clean use a non-toxic glass cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Avoid products with strong fumes or ammonia. After all (if any) fumes have dissipated, refill the cage with fresh substrate.

By now, your cage decorations should be ready for rinsing. Rinse them well with a strong jet of clean water until no evidence of bleach remains (odors, suds, etc). Letting the rinsed items dry in the hot sun is a great time saver.

Now you can replace all of your cage decor back into the cage EXCEPT for the water dish. That will go in last. Once the enclosure is all set up and looking great, it is time for the Provent-A-Mite. This stuff works great, but it is strong, so do not use any more than recommended. (See the directions on the Provent-A-Mite can for further information) Once it is dry, it is completely harmless to your snake, but in a liquid or gas form, it can be harmful (that is why you do not want the water dish in there when you spray.) You will now spray the Provent-A-Mite all over the bedding and decor at a rate of about one second per square foot (that's just over a second of spray for a 10 gallon tank). Allow the enclosure to air out for at least 15 minutes, or longer if you think you may have sprayed too much.

Step 4
Replace animal and water dish. Finally, you can now add your snake and filled water dish to the completely mite-free enclosure.

In the grand scheme of things, spending an hour or two on this project isn't the end of the world, but it's certainly worth avoiding the stress on you and the animal. As a result, prevention is the best medicine. Luckily, the Provent-A-Mite will continue to protect your enclosure from mites for about a month. We recommend that every month you treat your enclosure as described regardless of whether mites are present or not. It only takes a few minutes. Just remember to take out your snake and water dish before spraying.