Flexwatt and thermostats

Here's my dilemma. I've been using a dinosaur cheap thermostat for several years, and it's worked perfectly fine for me. I have that on a 41 qt rack with 11" flexwatt.
I'm in the process of making a 28 qt rack. I'm thinking the 6" flexwatt, or would 11" be fine? (not running it lengthwise)
If I go with the 6" I'm going to need to get another thermostat. What would you recommend? I've heard herpstat, helix, and ranco are some of the best. I'm also not looking to spend a ton of money but I also know a thermostat isn't something to skimp on. I don't need any extras though, just the basics
It would be awesome if there was a thermostat that I could plug 2 diff size flexwatts into but I don't think that's possible right? Because the different size flexwatts have different watt outputs?

So basically, what size flexwatt would you use for a 28qt rack, and what would be your most highly recommended thermostat that isn't overlypricey?

Please don't get flexwatt. Get the THG heat tape. It makes a world of a difference!

Herpstats and Vivariums are great thermostats.

I would use 6" heat tape on the 28qt rack, 11" or 12" would be ok but I personally wouldn't use them on this size rack.

Spyder robotics (herpstats) currently makes the best thermostats available (value for money and features/quality). While the helix use to be the king it is desperately in need of a redesign and really is overpriced for what it is now.

The herpstat 2 would be prefect for you as it is literally 2 thermostats in a single box. It would allow you to control both racks in a single unit. (and it's cheaper than buying 2 separate units)

If money is really an issue the best deal you can get on a thermostat in my opinion is the herpstat intro for $99 it is just as accurate and reliable as the other more expensive herpstats but some of the more complex features have been removed (like the ability to control misting systems)

Here is their product lineup with the features of each: http://spyderrobotics.com/home/products.html

The 11" will be overkill for the 28qt tubs, even though all I use is 11". LOL
You will need two stats so you might as well order them at the same time.
Where you get them is up to you, I personal like Reptile Basics, and recommend them along with their VE stats.

That is a whole nother story and EVERYONE here is going to start with their thoughts on what you need to buy.:rofl::rofl:

I say get the one that has the features YOU want.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

If money is really an issue the best deal you can get on a thermostat in my opinion is the herpstat intro for $99 it is just as accurate and reliable as the other more expensive herpstats but some of the more complex features have been removed (like the ability to control misting systems)

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Okay, not to derail this but WHO would use this in a rack system?? If everything is set up correct then you shouldn't need misting.:confusd::confusd:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Okay, not to derail this but WHO would use this in a rack system?? If everything is set up correct then you shouldn't need misting.:confusd::confusd:

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Which is why I recommended it as you only lose features that you don't really need.

I prefer the Herpstat as the primary plugged into a VE 100 as a back-up. Many people choose not too, but personally, we run every rack and every incubator with a back-up t-stat. Regardless of the back-up though , you can't go wrong with either of these two brands as mentioned above.

My personal belief is to run the safest possible gear. I would suggest herpstats (not the one basic or intro) as all the other models will shut down based on the users under temp setting. You can choose at what point it will shut off the heat if the probe gets pulled loose.

I personally would suggest flexwatt it runs cooler, there is no need for temps over 100ºF, the sample I have of THG tape is starting to delaminate. If you do use it I would suggest to set the tape correct reading side of the THG tape up not down (copper bus side down) To protect the tape from being pulled apart.

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Originally Posted by Coopers Constrictors

Please don't get flexwatt. Get the THG heat tape. It makes a world of a difference!

Herpstats and Vivariums are great thermostats.

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My bad, I do use the THG heat tape from reptile basics. I always thought flexwatt was the same thing and have always called any kind of heat tape flexwatt.
While we're on the topic, what is wrong with flexwatt?

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Okay, not to derail this but WHO would use this in a rack system?? If everything is set up correct then you shouldn't need misting.:confusd::confusd:

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lol I'm not sure but I saw that as one of the features on a pricey thermostat and I thought the same thing, and that is why I mentioned I don't need many 'extra' features. There was a lot of extra features that I was like ??? I seriously don't need that. I'm guessing that thermostat isn't so much for a snake rack but more for something that requires a very high humidity

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sumzbOAfxyE


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYdybSzLgLY

Flexwatt was never really designed for the reptile industry...we adopted it and it worked and has for many, many years. THG was degined with the reptile hoppy in mind. With over 3 years of testing in research, it is just made better and has better uniform heat output. I currently use Flexwatt under all my enclosures but will be swapping it out for THG here very soon.

We use the vivarium electronics thermostats, mainly the VE - 300 and the THG heat tape from Reptile Basics. Rich will definitely take care of you. Hope this helps.

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Originally Posted by Willie76

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sumzbOAfxyE


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYdybSzLgLY

Flexwatt was never really designed for the reptile industry...we adopted it and it worked and has for many, many years. THG was degined with the reptile hoppy in mind. With over 3 years of testing in research, it is just made better and has better uniform heat output. I currently use Flexwatt under all my enclosures but will be swapping it out for THG here very soon.

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Well I guess it's good that I actually use the THG heat tape! I think orginally (several years ago) my first purchase was flexwatt, and have always called it that. Everything I currently use is THG though. And you know, I do remember slight problems with the flexwatt. I was having a hard time keeping consistent temps. After switching I've never had a problem

I'm leaning towards herpstat 2. I get that it's like 2 thermostats, but I just want to make sure I'll be able to plug in the 12" heat tape rack AND the 6" rack into this one thermostat?

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Originally Posted by SnowShredder

I'm leaning towards herpstat 2. I get that it's like 2 thermostats, but I just want to make sure I'll be able to plug in the 12" heat tape rack AND the 6" rack into this one thermostat?

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Yes, the herpstat 2 has 2 probes, 2 outlets, and each can be set individually.

It's exactly the same as having 2 separate thermostats.

Double post sorry

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Yes, the herpstat 2 has 2 probes, 2 outlets, and each can be set individually.

It's exactly the same as having 2 separate thermostats.

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okay sweet, I'm thinking about going with that. Sounds perfect for me.
Thanks everyone!

THG has proven to run hotter than flexwatt so far.

I believe it has an up and a down sides I was messaging back and forth with THG people but to date they accepted the problem but have not done anything about it. They offer new which is great but I was sent a sample to play with so I was more concerned with solving the issue. I also when I disenfected it had solution wick into the open edge of the product and needed to dry it out. Royal pain in the but.

I would suggest sealing both ends and placing the copper bus side down rather than up.

http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photo...D7_1860-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

The THG heat tape can be run with either side up.

You should not be applying liquid to the open end of this electrical product.

Your delaminating pic is the result of your free heat sample being, in your words, "mangled" during shipping to Canada, where the corner was creased and damaged. This should be trimmed before using. Better yet, it should be replaced, which we offered to do, you declined.

As for hotter, heat tape of any brand should always be controlled with a thermostat. Resulting temps in your cage or setup are affected by a number of variables including racking, tub style, substrate depth, ambient room temps and more.

We see very consistent and even heating results with the THG heat tape, and that is a primary goal.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Okay, not to derail this but WHO would use this in a rack system?? If everything is set up correct then you shouldn't need misting.:confusd::confusd:

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I would...or possibly could, although more likely I will just set my misting system to run for a minute or two once or twice a day depending on the season.

I'm still in the process of building a rack that will hold six V175 tubs. The basic idea is there will be a misting nozzle sticking into the tub from the back side of the rack, tubs will have a hole cut that it sticks in through when the tub is slid all the way in.

This rack is being built for rainbow boas though, not ball pythons.

Sorry about heading off topic, just throwing out there when/why a control unit like that might be handy.

Charlie

So question Robyn, how do you recommend disinfecting a rack with THG tape? Especially when the instructions on Chlorhexidine and F10 products say saturate the surface. Can it be disinfected?

YOU sent a sample for me to test and I never asked for it, YOU, singled ME out, unsolicited. It is a big part of my job to do product evaluations why else would you send it to me? Then when I have the first initial impressions you criticize them rather than addressing the issues? Reptile Basics does not ship to Canada, so why else did you make an exception? I don't need it nor is it even legal for me to use it under Canadian law, I run a business from my home it needs to be wired by an electrician to be legal.

The amount of effort has already been more effort than the solution.

Use the right reading side up. Not so hard. 'methinks thou dost protest too much'

Next time do not give a product for evaluation if you don't want it evaluated!

The box. (I try to re use boxes as much as possible)

http://images54.fotki.com/v461/photo...MG_3115-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

I'm sorry that the product was damaged in shipping.

I'm sorry that we have wasted your time.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

So question Robyn, how do you recommend disinfecting a rack with THG tape? Especially when the instructions on Chlorhexidine and F10 products say saturate the surface. Can it be disinfected?

YOU sent a sample for me to test and I never asked for it, YOU, singled ME out, unsolicited. It is a big part of my job to do product evaluations why else would you send it to me? Then when I have the first initial impressions you criticize them rather than addressing the issues? Reptile Basics does not ship to Canada, so why else did you make an exception? I don't need it nor is it even legal for me to use it under Canadian law, I run a business from my home it needs to be wired by an electrician to be legal.

The amount of effort has already been more effort than the solution.

Use the right reading side up. Not so hard. 'methinks thou dost protest too much'

Next time do not give a product for evaluation if you don't want it evaluated!

The box. (I try to re use boxes as much as possible)

http://images54.fotki.com/v461/photo...MG_3115-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

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wow, Kitedemon, I think that you are clearly over reacting on your part here. It is very clear that the product that they sent you for testing was damaged during shipping and from what I can see you acknowledge that, so why would you even bother to test a product that was clearly damaged? the correct response I think should have been " hey, this product was damaged during shipping and is unusable for safety reasons. please send me another or I cant fairly run the tests I need to properly evaluate your product, rather than BASH it! This is the second AMERICAN heat product made by a major manufacturer that you have deemed "not worthy ". To be honest , that makes me question your qualifications? I am by no means a thermal engineer but even lil Ole me can tell a damaged part when I see it. You always talk about heating equipment and thermostats and thermometers being unacceptable at +/- 2 deg swing, Let me remind you that these are living creatures that we are talking about, not industrial equipment that needs to be calibrated to the thousands or it will fail. Living creatures have whats called adaptation! Heck even at night temps in nature drop + 10 or more degrees. Ball pythons come from Africa where temps can easily reach into the 100's during the day and at night can reach temps that if not properly protected the human body can suffer Hypothermia. That"s a difference of +/- 50 deg. in one night , yet these living creatures adapt. There is not a place on this earth that is not controlled by man that holds a tolerance of less than +/-2 deg. I think your job as a tester has got your opinion a bit askew from nature and reality and I don't think you purposely mean to give bad advice but I personally think you may have reached the point where you are no longer relevant to the herp husbandry topic! Nothing is good enough for you, which leaves newbies very confused on their options!

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Originally Posted by SnowShredder

My bad, I do use the THG heat tape from reptile basics. I always thought flexwatt was the same thing and have always called any kind of heat tape flexwatt.
While we're on the topic, what is wrong with flexwatt?

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There's nothing wrong with flexwatt, we've all been using it for years. Two of my racks and my bator are flexwatt. I only have one rack, my newest rack, that is THG heat tape. I personally still call THG flexwatt, to me it's just the updated version ;) Although, if you have the option to use THG I would use that since it doesn't get as out of control when you run it wide open (or your thermostat breaks). It still gets way too hot for bps though, when I ran it wide open it got to 130+ degrees, but took a bit of time. My flexwatt hit 150 degrees within minutes before I unplugged it. I know it's designed with reptiles in mind, but I don't think it's "way safer" than flexwatt based on my own testing. IMO flexwatt and THG are equally dangerous if something goes wrong.

I would also use 6 inch with a 28qt tub.

I use Ranco, Helix, and Vivarium.

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Originally Posted by norwegn113

wow, Kitedemon, I think that you are clearly over reacting on your part here. It is very clear that the product that they sent you for testing was damaged during shipping and from what I can see you acknowledge that, so why would you even bother to test a product that was clearly damaged? the correct response I think should have been " hey, this product was damaged during shipping and is unusable for safety reasons. please send me another or I cant fairly run the tests I need to properly evaluate your product, rather than BASH it! This is the second AMERICAN heat product made by a major manufacturer that you have deemed "not worthy ". To be honest , that makes me question your qualifications? I am by no means a thermal engineer but even lil Ole me can tell a damaged part when I see it. You always talk about heating equipment and thermostats and thermometers being unacceptable at +/- 2 deg swing, Let me remind you that these are living creatures that we are talking about, not industrial equipment that needs to be calibrated to the thousands or it will fail. Living creatures have whats called adaptation! Heck even at night temps in nature drop + 10 or more degrees. Ball pythons come from Africa where temps can easily reach into the 100's during the day and at night can reach temps that if not properly protected the human body can suffer Hypothermia. That"s a difference of +/- 50 deg. in one night , yet these living creatures adapt. There is not a place on this earth that is not controlled by man that holds a tolerance of less than +/-2 deg. I think your job as a tester has got your opinion a bit askew from nature and reality and I don't think you purposely mean to give bad advice but I personally think you may have reached the point where you are no longer relevant to the herp husbandry topic! Nothing is good enough for you, which leaves newbies very confused on their options!

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Once again I have no idea what you are speaking of?

I said nothing about Flexwatt.

Royal pythons are NOCTURNAL... they are underground during the day so spouting about day temps in the sun is silly. They do not bask.

http://images52.fotki.com/v642/photo...MG_3120-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Is the the AMERICAN made product you are speaking of?

I love my RHPs. I do a huge amount of work with radiant heaters. I own three, I don't like people telling others that they will do things they don't.

I think my chunk is defective.

My 6 year old nephew was visiting my work and was sitting behind me playing with a dinky car. He asked if he could play with the plastic 'road' I looked over and after I cut the power cable off of THG said sure go ahead.

I turned back to the urgent task that pulled me off the beach today and a moment later heard 'oh no' and silence... I really hate those silences around kids, 'umm its not a sticker is it?' I turned back to find THG heat tape pealed apart about 5 or 6 inches up the section. I took it back and gave it a hard tug, it tore. Clearly my section was defective there is a large piece that was not correctly adhered together.

I know that it is not a toy and that 6 years olds should not be playing with heaters, although in my defence, as I had NO intention of using it, or even testing it further (I hope to get away from flexwatt as well and stick with prewired heaters) I cut the cord off. He could not plug it in as far as I was concerned it was just a scrap of plastic.

I also would not expect heat tape to peel apart easily either. I can't say why.

I have a photo if anyone wants to see it just message me.

Perhaps I am over reacting...

I recommend the herpstat intro+. It has the safety relay to keep from cooking your snakes and also the high alarm and low alarm. Can be programmed for night and day temps, and has 3 socket thingy where you can put 3 plugs in.

http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat_introPLUS.html