Hatchling Tubs

I'm about to construct a hatchling rack in advance of some eggs in a few weeks. Is there any disadvantage to using a tub with a low profile? Most of the 6 qt tubs are 5-6 inches tall. Is there any reason not to use a tub with similar floor dimensions that is maybe only 3 inches high? It seems like it could help encourage feeding.

What kind of tubs do YOU use in your hatchling rack?

I use V-18 tubs, which are only 3.5" tall: http://cserpents.com/C_Serpents/V-18.html

We use IRIS MCB-SS 6QT Tubs

Dimensions are 8 1/16" W x 13 9/16" L x 4 5/16" H

Same rules apply to babies and even more so for hatchlings. Lower tubs offer more security which can lend to better feeding and happier snakes. Down side is that depending on the height of the tub your animals may out grow them quicker than using a 5-6" tall tub. So if you use the tall tubs be ready to offer a hide or some kind of security, if you use the short tubs be prepared to have to move them into bigger tubs in a few months.

I use V18 tubs as well as 6 quarts.

The advantages of the V18 are that they are lower, offering even more security, allowing to stack more of them compare to a rack of the same height containing 6 quarts tubs and they are longer allowing you to keep the snake in the a little longer.

I also second the IRIS tubs. They never change designs. Rubbermaid and Sterllite change models all the time so finding replacement tubs to fit your rack may be a challenge in the future unless you stock up beforehand.

A downside to a smaller tub is that if you go with belly heat, they heat up with very little gradient. (A reason why many hatchling racks are back heat.)

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Thanks everyone.

I'm going to check out what I can find locally. I only have 2 clutches so I'm just going to scrap something together for this season. Next year I'll probably just buy a professional rack. I do like the v-18s though for sure. the extra length seems like it prolongs the life a lot. I think that's almost the floor space or bigger than a 15 qt, but the narrow design and low height gives more security to a little baby.


Somewhat jumping topics, and I can make another thread if needed... Deborah I think? mentioned a short list at some point of things every breeder should have on hand for emergency treating as the babies hatch. The one item I remember is dental floss for tying cords if needed. What else is on that list and what would it be needed for?

Plain floss, and liquid bandaid. It can help retard mold growth and/or patch a hole if an egg tears when moving or trying to separate them. Deborah probably has more tricks than these two, though. ;)

I am having my hatchling rack from AP built with FB 10 tubs.

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Originally Posted by MrLang

Somewhat jumping topics, and I can make another thread if needed... Deborah I think? mentioned a short list at some point of things every breeder should have on hand for emergency treating as the babies hatch. The one item I remember is dental floss for tying cords if needed. What else is on that list and what would it be needed for?

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My emergency kit includes

Dental floss (no flavoring).
Little stainless steel pair of scissors.
Liquid bandaid for leaky egg should one be torn.
Elmer glue for mold, liquid bandaid works too.
Deli cup, should an hatchling not absorb it's yolk completely before getting out of it's egg.

That's it and to be honest the good part is that all that is rarely used. ;)

The elmers glue is used to prevent mold by spreading it on the mold, letting it dry, then peeling it off, correct?

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Originally Posted by Mike41793

The elmers glue is used to prevent mold by spreading it on the mold, letting it dry, then peeling it off, correct?

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You actually wipe the egg off to remove as much of the mold as possible, then apply the glue and let it dry to prevent any more spreading of the mold.

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Originally Posted by Deborah

You actually wipe the egg off to remove as much of the mold as possible, then apply the glue and let it dry to prevent any more spreading of the mold.

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Nice, thanks for the lesson. Learn something new everyday.

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I like this thread. With my first eggs coming at the end of the month, I will be subscribing.

It pleases me when my questions benefit others :D

I ended up getting sterilite 6 qt regular top (not latch top) from Target for 97 cents a pop. I'm going to get some melamine and get it cut in the next few days and my heat tape from Rich at RBI is coming tomorrow. I'll post a little thread with the process and end result and cost when I'm done. It's looking like a 12 tub rack with heat and tubs will be costing me 100 bucks or less.

Thanks for the answers Deborah and all.

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Originally Posted by Deborah

You actually wipe the egg off to remove as much of the mold as possible, then apply the glue and let it dry to prevent any more spreading of the mold.

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This has to be a localized use of the glue right? Too much could suffocate the egg?

Also, We use a V-18 open air rack with 60 tubs.

I've only hatched the one clutch from our wild caught girl but all but 1 have fed just about every time.

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Originally Posted by OctagonGecko729

This has to be a localized use of the glue right? Too much could suffocate the egg?
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Correct, just where the mold was (assuming you see it before it spreads over the whole egg, of course).

There should be a 'McGuyver Vet Tactics' or 'Frankenstein Fixes' thread.


signed.

The only down side I see is fitting water bowls in the tub.

I use regular old $1 shoebox tubs