DIY newbie enclosure setup

So I am new here and getting my ball python in a little over a week. I just set up his enclosure and thought I would put up step by step of how I set it up to help new ball python owners set up a proper habitat for their snake at little cost as possible.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/23/y5a4ygy3.jpg

This is almost everything I need to set up my enclosure. 10 gallon tank with a locking lid, heat lamp with built in dimmer switch, 50 watt red bulb, accutite thermometer, crock water dish, cypress mulch, ultratherm heat pad, hydrofarm thermostat (still being shipped!), 2 hides I made from deli containers, black construction paper, glue gun and aluminum tape.

First, I blacked out all 3 sides with construction paper to make my snake feel more secure. Then I washed out the deli containers and cut a small hole on the far right and then sanded down the rough edges. Then I cut a piece of Plexiglass to fit half the screen lid.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/23/qe6a4yga.jpg

Next I secured my heat mat with aluminum tape because this mat is non adhesive and also it makes it easier to remove. *note: before securing heat mat place thermostat probe between glass and heat pad. I did not because I did not recieve mine yet but when I do I WILL be removing part of the tape and securing the thermostat probe. A thermostat is a MUST to control the heat pad temperature or your snake WILL get burned.*

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/23/ajubuheg.jpg

I raised each corner of the tank so heat can escape and so the heat does not discolor the wooden desk.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/23/y3yru5a4.jpg

Next I used a hot glue gun to stick the Accurite thermometer probe over the glass on top of the heat pad to measure the hot spot temperature. It does come with a adhesive probe but if it came undone the sticky part can pose a threat to the snake if it touches his scales and gets stuck. Then I hot glued the wires to the tank incase the snake climbs them.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/23/5ary8uvu.jpg

I then used some more aluminum tape to tape down the cut Plexiglass to the screen so it traps some heat and humidity on the cool side.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/23/pyhy4yva.jpg

Finally, add the substrate, water dish, indentical hides on both ends of the enclosure, the accurite on the cool end, and plug all the electrical components to a surge protector for safety. You want to aim for a 50-60% humidity, ~80 degree cool spot, 90 degree hot spot. You may have to adjust the dimmer on the light and spray the enclosure here and there to keep up with fluctuating temperature and humidity in a glass tank. I use cypress because it holds humidity well in a glass tank. Do not go by temperatures being displayed in the picture because they are still fluctuating.

Well, good luck new owners I am very excited about getting my first ball python. I hope this helped a little and bp.net vetrans.. Feel free to critique my set up!

Looks like a great start!!! If I might suggest.... Perhaps some plastic plants/ vines etc to fill space? They typically spend all their time at ground level but they like clutter and tbh, mine does like to go up from time to time.

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Originally Posted by MsMissy

Looks like a great start!!! If I might suggest.... Perhaps some plastic plants/ vines etc to fill space? They typically spend all their time at ground level but they like clutter and tbh, mine does like to go up from time to time.

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I am going to add plastic plants soon! Just have not had a chance to buy any yet. Just got the most important stuff set up first.

The heat mat looks a little large for a 10gal tank. Not sure you're gonna have much of a temperature gradient from end to end. The rest looks ok though.

Looks really good!! Kudos to you for being a responsible owner BEFORE you bring snakey home!

Looks good! I'd highly recommend the dollar store for plants. I grabbed a ton of long viney-type ones when i was there. Yay for cheap, easy fillers!!!

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Originally Posted by rocknhorse76

The heat mat looks a little large for a 10gal tank. Not sure you're gonna have much of a temperature gradient from end to end. The rest looks ok though.

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That was the smallest reptile basics made. I really hate the stick on heat pads since they malfuntion so much. (Had a zoo med one on a dimmer on the lowest setting always at 88 degrees for my corn for a year and one day it shot to 120 degrees)

Couple of comments,

WHERE is YOUR THERMOSTAT????!!!!

They are not optional.

I am not a fan of having battery operated appliances inside the enclosure, keep in mind I dislike accurites, the specs allow for to much range. (4ºF up or down from correct and 10% RH) Batteries can leak and get nasty.

Kitedemon, he said his thermostat is in the mail, if you read the post. As far as I can tell this guy has done everything right.

As for the variability in the thermometer, I wouldn't worry overmuch about it. He's not incubating eggs. Even if the hot side reaches 94F when the thermometer is reading 90F, his snake is not going to get burnt, and that's the most important thing. If the battery starts to leak, then perhaps OP could consider a different brand, but surely not every accurite thermometer is destined to leak battery fluid.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Couple of comments,

WHERE is YOUR THERMOSTAT????!!!!

They are not optional.

I am not a fan of having battery operated appliances inside the enclosure, keep in mind I dislike accurites, the specs allow for to much range. (4ºF up or down from correct and 10% RH) Batteries can leak and get nasty.

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He said that he has a thermostat in the mail, and he doesn't have the snake yet..

Also an Accurite is better than those analog thermometers, or no thermometer at all.

Looks good just be aware that tank won't last him long. You have clearly done your homework. Only suggestion I have is with the lamp, if your temp in the house fluctuates it may be a pain to keep the temp right. I actually run my lamps on a thermostat so I don't have to mess with it. Check it every once in a while though and you will be fine.

One question though, does your thermometer display humidity? Or do you have a sep hygrometer?

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Originally Posted by VooDooDoc

Looks good just be aware that tank won't last him long. You have clearly done your homework. Only suggestion I have is with the lamp, if your temp in the house fluctuates it may be a pain to keep the temp right. I actually run my lamps on a thermostat so I don't have to mess with it. Check it every once in a while though and you will be fine.

One question though, does your thermometer display humidity? Or do you have a sep hygrometer?

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Its a Accurite.. So it has warm side probe temperature, cool side temperature (ambient), and humidity. Also I know it will not last for long.. Will probably upgrade to my spare 20g long tank in 6-8 months. I just read a lot of care sheets which go against keeping a hatchling in a big enclosure. He is also only 70-80 grams.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Couple of comments,

WHERE is YOUR THERMOSTAT????!!!!

They are not optional.

I am not a fan of having battery operated appliances inside the enclosure, keep in mind I dislike accurites, the specs allow for to much range. (4ºF up or down from correct and 10% RH) Batteries can leak and get nasty.

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I will probably try and get a appliance with out a battery incase of leakage. Also as others stated, my hyrdofarm is in the mail I will lift the tape up and attach it to under the heat pad between the glass. And I am not getting my snake for another 1-2 weeks the breeder wants him to feed 5+ times.

Sorry I missed it is in the mail very visual and jumped the gun.

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Originally Posted by SaintTawny

Kitedemon, he said his thermostat is in the mail, if you read the post. As far as I can tell this guy has done everything right.

As for the variability in the thermometer, I wouldn't worry overmuch about it. He's not incubating eggs. Even if the hot side reaches 94F when the thermometer is reading 90F, his snake is not going to get burnt, and that's the most important thing. If the battery starts to leak, then perhaps OP could consider a different brand, but surely not every accurite thermometer is destined to leak battery fluid.

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I don't believe ANY battery should be inside an enclosure. All batteries can leak especially in warm humid conditions.

There is ALOT of allowable variation in accurite, the manufacturer allows 4ºF up or down from correct. If the unit is 100% functioning according to the manufacturer allows 86-94ºF if it is reading 90ºF. That maybe acceptable for some I don't feel it is.

The three I have owned only one was inside this. The other two were replaced by the manufacturer under the warrantee the worst was 3ºF more than the specs reading 7ºF high. When I set my thermostat accordingly I noticed it was wrong with my finger. I am not convinced the pet store dial types are worse than the accretes. I don't like seeing specs more than 2ºF up or down, I prefer 1ºF up or down. OP if you check the specs and cannot find what the accuracy range is (+/- 2ºF for example) DO NOT BUY IT! general rule of thumb.

Hydrofarm also does not list the specs they are also +/-4ºF and they have 3ºF of hysteresis. This means the most accurate you have is an 11ºF window. IMO you need ONE tool capable of measuring better than 2ºF window. Look at either a more accurate thermometer or a more accurate thermostat. Something should be close (a degree or two) of correct.