Hide boxes in tubs?

I finished my rack and have put my baby balls in their new tubs about 4 days ago. In the tubs I have their water bowls and their hides. It looks like this:

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...ps11b44b88.jpg

However, the last few days I've gone in to check on them in the mornings they are almost always out of their boxes and in the back corner of their tubs. I've seen threads and pictures of rack and tub systems where there would be a hide, and where there would not be one.

I guess my question is, would it be benificial to take the hides out? It will give them a little extra room in their tubs to move around and all, but I dont want to take the risk of stressing them out by removing their hides and them not being able to feel secure.

What are your opinions? Escpecially those who have racks? Do you have the hides in the tubs, or no hides at all?

Thanks for replying.

I don't think a blanket statemant can apply it is on a animal by animal basis, some are fine with no hides some need one some two. I have of 5 in tubs 1 with two hides one with a single (cool or front hide) and 3 with no hides. It depends on the animal.

I'm not sure from your picture which side of your tub is the hot vs cold side. I have hides on both the warm and cool sides for all except my largest adults (for them the tub is the hide), with the water in between them. These are 41 qt tubs, and I use the same style hide as you. The younger BP's have the smaller hides plus loosely crumpled newspaper to clutter up the tub a bit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kitedemon

I don't think a blanket statemant can apply it is on a animal by animal basis, some are fine with no hides some need one some two. I have of 5 in tubs 1 with two hides one with a single (cool or front hide) and 3 with no hides. It depends on the animal.

---

I think the blanket statement is put a hide in and if it uses it then great if it doesn't it doesn't.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

None of my snakes in a rack gets a hide unless its a picky eater. An enclosed rack itself acts like a hide.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

no hides in my tubs either and all my snakes slam rats and never miss a meal

BCR, the side with the hides is the side that sits on the heat tape so that's the hot side. My rack is enclosed and its always dark in the shelves. I have a very picky eater who has yet to eat for me ( I've had her three weeks today). Her tub has a hide, I may take it out and then try to feed her on Thursday, as that's feeding day. The other three are excellent eaters and have not missed a meal since I've got them (unless they are in shed). I may just take out all their hides and see how they do. Thanks for all the advice.

Got it. Those picky eaters will turn me gray long before my time. I've noticed that mine really only use the warm side hides for a few days after feeding, and then they hang out either in the middle or the cool side hide (with a pit stop in the water bowl :rolleyes:). I would try switching the hide to the cool side for now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bcr229

Got it. Those picky eaters will turn me gray long before my time.

---

Tell me about it either I'll go grey or rip my hair out and go bald, the one that's not eating is my new Albino baby girl. The breeder said she was pounding 25 gram mice when he had her, and it definitely showed because she weighed 263 grams the day I brought her home. Its been three weeks and she's not eaten once. This is her first week in the new rack though, so hopefully when feeding day comes around she will take a mouse. If not I may just go insane.

What are the temps in the rack. I keep my hot side at 88-90 degrees. What size tubs are they in if it's too big they might not eat. I have v-18 tubs which will hold up to a 1000gram snake.

They are 32 quart tubs made by sterilite (They all used to be in 20 gallon longs). I have my thermostat set to 93 degrees, its probe reads the 93 degrees. But a second probe attached to another thermometer on the heat tape reads 87 degrees. I cant quite get an accurate reading inside of the tubs themselves, I have accurite thermometers in each tub, with humidity reading at 65% but heat cant be right, as it only reads at 82 degrees on the warm side, and it feels warmer than that. Any suggestions on a good accurate way to read temps inside the tubs?

I use a digital thermometer in 1 of the tubs right above theheat source. Then i have a infrared hand gun thermometer that I use to spot check. Go on amazon and you can get a infared gun for 20bucks u def need 1. It sounds like your temps are messed up

My digital thermometers are above the heat sources. They still read at 82 degrees. I know that cant be right. I'll look into getting a infrared gun. Thanks for the input.

x2 on the IR surface thermometer

You guys have any recommendations?

Go on amazon search for 1 and read the reviews and look into herpstat thermostat from spyderrobotics

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kodieh

I think the blanket statement is put a hide in and if it uses it then great if it doesn't it doesn't.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

---

That is quite a statement put a hide in every tub on every rack if it uses it great if not what ever? Do do realize some breeders have 1000s of snakes? That is one bozo amount of hides. It is far more common for no hides than hides. But there are always exceptions to the norm.

Most of the breeders I know only have a limited number of animals whom need hides. Some need one some two. I take have taken in large numbers of rescues over the years and some of the most difficult I keep myself as they are likely to always be an issue. It is why I have an abnormal amount of hides to snakes. Most breeders are likely 25 to one. Maybe not even that.

an IR gun is rated to +/- 2ºF or most are that allows 'correct' to be two degrees high or two low. Accurites are rated at +/-2ºC (almost 4ºF) up or down that is quite a range it means 82ºF reading the manufacturer assumes error rates as much as 86ºF to 78ºF. IMO this is unacceptable a range.

I would suggest something with a lower error rate. +/-2ºF (1ºC) is the worst I'll accept. Luckily they are easy to find most have this kind of accuracy.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Aquarium-LCD-...fa2e4d5&_uhb=1

I would suggest buying a few and checking them against each other. Any reading a lot differently than the others can be left unused.

I already have a Herpstat 1 from spyder robotics, and I love it.

What do you guys think of this IR gun: http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/...n-thermometer/

For me, if they are on the small side for the tub, they get 1 or even 2 hides.



After that, they get one to use if they want to or not. Most of them do.

That one is actually not one I like. Usually I don't have much opinion all I suggest is a d:s of 1:1 to 6:1 and a battery that is not hard to get.

The zoo med one I actually dislike I have had one in my hands and it feels cheap and clunky. There are a lot of others around I personally would buy first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk