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  • 06-09-2013, 08:43 AM
    Konotashi
    How to Maintain Humidity Levels?
    It'll probably be a while before I get a snake, but I figure I'd get a head start on my questions. :)

    I live in AZ - A.K.A., one of the hottest, driest places on the planet. (Sort of joking).

    I was thinking that I'd want to keep my BP in a Vision enclosure, because I have a feeling I'll want to have more than one, and the vision cages are stackable. (I don't want sterilite tubs in a rack - I want to be able to see them).

    Considering how dry it is here, how can I maintain humidity levels in the cage? Would a spray bottle be adequate? Or would I need something like a fogger/automatic type humidifier?
  • 06-09-2013, 11:43 AM
    Pyrate81
    Re: How to Maintain Humidity Levels?
    I do not have them myself but have heard vision cages hold humidity quite nicely. I would assume a spray down 1-2 times a day would be adequate if necesary. If not, a fogger would probably do the trick. Someone who has vision cages can verify this or not.
  • 06-09-2013, 01:33 PM
    Konotashi
    What's the best type of mulch/bedding for keeping humidity without causing belly rot? I was thinking about using the coconut fiber substrate.
  • 06-09-2013, 01:38 PM
    rocknhorse76
    I live in Las Vegas, which is even drier than AZ lol. I personally use cypress mulch in my enclosures, and it holds humidity quite well. Arizona Reptile Center and Reptile Mogul both carry big bags of cypress for a great price. Jared at RM can even help you out with getting a nice enclosure.
  • 06-09-2013, 01:40 PM
    kitedemon
    Personally I would no suggest a fogger they build bacteria quickly and require daily cleaning quite a lot of work. Substrate choice and water bowl location is likely enough. Substrates that hold moisture help a lot and so do large surface area bowls. A large shallow bowl will help more than a deep narrow one. It all is about water mass, you need lots of liquid to evaporate to increase humidity. Spraying is a fast bump but has no long term effect.

    Room humidifiers work super well IMO they are the way to go, evaporation type in my experience work best they put vapour into the air and it is sterile as it has been boiled the other types do not and through bacteria as well as water drops they tend to drop ambient temps and need daily cleaning. Evaporation ones need cleaning as well just not as often and are generally healthier. Remember RH changes with temperature (relative not absolute) 60% @ 80ºF (15gm/m3) at 85ºF (15gm/m3) is not as much (51%), and at 70ºF (15gm/m3) more (82%). If you ambient air temp is higher than 80ºF you don't need 60% lower is fine 50% is likely all you need if your ambient air temp is lower you may need higher RH 66-70% however the actual amount of water in the air is the same.
  • 06-09-2013, 01:41 PM
    kitedemon
    I like coco coir it is enviromentally responsible and hold way more water (too much some times) It resists mold the same way and is not from trees but a by product of cocnuts.
  • 06-09-2013, 02:18 PM
    Konotashi
    I heard that keeping the water bowl over a heating pad that's underneath the cage would help disperse humidity, also. I'm just worried that'd make the water warm - or is that not an issue for snakes?

    I'm also wary of heating pads, considering I had a friend who had one that caught on fire and it singed his snake. (Thankfully, the snake survived, but did suffer burns unfortunately). Are there heating pads with temperature controls or something? Or timers? How do heating pads work? I feel like a derp for not really knowing how they work, but I know heat rocks are a big no-no, and lamps dry the air out, so I feel like the heating pad is the best way to go, but I have some concerns about those too....

    That's good to know about the foggers, though.
    If I kept a humidifier in my room and kept it near the cage(s), would the small vent on the back of the Vision enclosure be enough to maintain the levels along with a few sprays with a water bottle? I need to get a humidifier anyway, considering I get bloody noses frequently due to the dry climate, so that would pretty much be a win-win.
  • 06-09-2013, 02:26 PM
    kitedemon
    Yes you must have a thermostat for the heat system. I suggest herpstats they have state of the art safety systems. Any other proprtional one will work but the leader of the pack for safety is also one of the least expensive. The base model is 99$.
  • 06-09-2013, 02:42 PM
    Konotashi
    Herpstat heat tape? Is that the heating mechanism and the temperature control in one? And it starts at about $100? Definitely a price I'd be willing to pay to have comfortable, safe snakes.
    How many cages can a single herpstat be hooked up to? Just one? How many questions can I ask in one post? Haha.
  • 06-09-2013, 04:24 PM
    Coopers Constrictors
    Herpstat = Thermostat
    Helix = Thermostat
    Vivarium electronics = Thermostat

    All of which control heat tape and is an absolute must have.
  • 06-10-2013, 01:59 AM
    kitedemon
    How to Maintain Humidity Levels?
    Ecozone = thermostat
    Herpkeeper = thermostat

    I'll add the forgotten ones at least in the n. American market.

    There are a few others in Europe as well but most don't make 110v compatible units.
    The others herpstats and these two are the most advanced by a long shot.

    Helix is the oldest and is very solid but has few other options.
    Ve200+ they are new and have less options than the others but for helix.




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