Wanting to upgrade enclosure for my BCI

Hi everyone! I have been considering upgrading my early 2011 lipstick sunglow, Pandora, from a 40 breeder into a display enclosure. I thought I could put this off until the end of the year, but she was out and about last night and I didn't realize how big she had gotten!

She is about 5 ft, and probably about 6 pounds (haven't weighed her in a while).
Here is a crappy cell phone pic of her exploring before I cleaned her tank.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/25/4u9atupa.jpg

Out of the typical display cage brands, what are your favorites?

I was looking at some vision cages (the V400 and the V422) as well as the 4 foot enclosures that Cserpents now makes.

Any input?


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Honestly, I wouldn't waste your money on those vision cages, unless they've drastically lowered the prices of their cages(last 2 years or so). Your best bet honestly, is to go to a local reptile show(assuming the ones near you sell cages) and get one from there. You can get a nice 55 or 65 gallon long for under $150, maybe even bigger but that you wouldn't need anything bigger than that, then I think the top maybe $10-20. I haven't been to a reptile show in awhile, and the last one I went to was hosted by gilaproductions and it was in New Orleans and the cage I got was from glasscages. I think I paid about $110 for my tank that I got. I haven't been to the new repticon shows so I don't know what all they have but I do plan on going to the one in June.

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Originally Posted by Neal

Honestly, I wouldn't waste your money on those vision cages, unless they've drastically lowered the prices of their cages(last 2 years or so). Your best bet honestly, is to go to a local reptile show(assuming the ones near you sell cages) and get one from there. You can get a nice 55 or 65 gallon long for under $150, maybe even bigger but that you wouldn't need anything bigger than that, then I think the top maybe $10-20. I haven't been to a reptile show in awhile, and the last one I went to was hosted by gilaproductions and it was in New Orleans and the cage I got was from glasscages. I think I paid about $110 for my tank that I got. I haven't been to the new repticon shows so I don't know what all they have but I do plan on going to the one in June.

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Cserpents is at a lot of my local shows, and they have a 4 foot enclosure with sliding plexiglass doors, a RHP and lighting for about 300 or 350 I believe... That way I wouldn't have to pay shipping either.


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Is there anyway you can link me to that cage so I can have a look at it for myself?

Also be careful about plexi, it scratches easily and it looks horrible once it starts to get scratched. Also the 55gal long is 48" long which is 4 foot as well.

Just a visual, here is what a 65 gal looks like:
http://glasscages.com/gc2/prodpics/65terr-side.jpg

EDIT:
Correction, I owned this tank, it was 65 gal.

Consider sticking with a pvc enclosure rather than a tank. Tanks suck with humidity and heat and are much harder to regulate. You can get a T8 from Animal Plastics for $150. Shipped and with heat (flexwatt) included it only comes to $230. A T8 is 4x2x1 and could very well last her for her entire life. These cages make very nice display enclosures too - the black sets off the snake's colors really well and you can use whatever substrate you want and put in a nice driftwood climbing branch. :gj:

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

Consider sticking with a pvc enclosure rather than a tank. Tanks suck with humidity and heat and are much harder to regulate. You can get a T8 from Animal Plastics for $150. Shipped and with heat (flexwatt) included it only comes to $230. A T8 is 4x2x1 and could very well last her for her entire life. These cages make very nice display enclosures too - the black sets off the snake's colors really well and you can use whatever substrate you want and put in a nice driftwood climbing branch. :gj:

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If you setup a tank properly, you won't have issues with heat or humidity. For the most part your ambient temperature will be in the 70's, unless you keep your house cold, then with a nice ceramic heat emitter on one side and a UTH on the opposite side you can regulate the temps easy. Humidity, what I did is I used the cypress mulch, I put a thick layer down, then I used a small pcv tube put it in the corner, and made sure it went straight to the bottom. Then I evened out the substrate with the top of the pipe, and once a week I would pour a few glasses of water down that tube which soaked the bottom half of the substrate while the top would remain dry, and the UTH raised the humidity and the heat emitter wouldn't zap it like a light. Then you mist the top of the substrate to your liking but the humidity stays high. Keep this in mind I did this for my Anaconda and never once had any issues with sheds or humidity. You can also put saran rap on the opposite side of the light to keep humidity in there.

The only reason I wouldn't get one of those cages is because I can't use any kind of a overhead heating source, which in my tanks I liked to use the dark blue bulb which gives off a faint glow like the moon so it gives the light a little enclosure. Though I did see that some of those tanks come with a place to use overhead lighting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

Consider sticking with a pvc enclosure rather than a tank. Tanks suck with humidity and heat and are much harder to regulate. You can get a T8 from Animal Plastics for $150. Shipped and with heat (flexwatt) included it only comes to $230. A T8 is 4x2x1 and could very well last her for her entire life. These cages make very nice display enclosures too - the black sets off the snake's colors really well and you can use whatever substrate you want and put in a nice driftwood climbing branch. :gj:

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I definitely want to get away from glass tanks.

I need to research more on the T8. That's an enclosure that you assemble yourself, right? What is the best method for heating?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by missriss2012

I definitely want to get away from glass tanks.

I need to research more on the T8. That's an enclosure that you assemble yourself, right? What is the best method for heating?


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Flexwatt or/and RHP.

I have a 3x2x16" and I use both. The rhp just kinda helps bring up the ambient on the cool side (I know others will disagree but it's been working for me)

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Flexwatt or/and RHP.

I have a 3x2x16" and I use both. The rhp just kinda helps bring up the ambient on the cool side (I know others will disagree but it's been working for me)

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That might work well for me. I keep the house pretty cool and don't want her ambient temps to suffer!

Any opinions on the T10 being a few inches taller? I bet it would make bleating much easier.


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Give her the t10!!

When she gets big, it's gonna be hard to get her out with a 1' height.

And when I got my first snake I was keeping my room about 65-70, and with the tape and rhp I managed perfect temps!

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Give her the t10!!

When she gets big, it's gonna be hard to get her out with a 1' height.

And when I got my first snake I was keeping my room about 65-70, and with the tape and rhp I managed perfect temps!

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Sounds great! Did you buy the stand that they sell? I have her 40 breeder on a coffee table right now, and I know the T10 would be too big for it.


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I can't buy from AP, as I'm in Canada and shipping is like $300+.

I have my 4' tanks sitting ontop of one of my dressers. A stand would look nicer though.

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Originally Posted by Neal

If you setup a tank properly, you won't have issues with heat or humidity. For the most part your ambient temperature will be in the 70's, unless you keep your house cold, then with a nice ceramic heat emitter on one side and a UTH on the opposite side you can regulate the temps easy. Humidity, what I did is I used the cypress mulch, I put a thick layer down, then I used a small pcv tube put it in the corner, and made sure it went straight to the bottom. Then I evened out the substrate with the top of the pipe, and once a week I would pour a few glasses of water down that tube which soaked the bottom half of the substrate while the top would remain dry, and the UTH raised the humidity and the heat emitter wouldn't zap it like a light. Then you mist the top of the substrate to your liking but the humidity stays high. Keep this in mind I did this for my Anaconda and never once had any issues with sheds or humidity. You can also put saran rap on the opposite side of the light to keep humidity in there.

The only reason I wouldn't get one of those cages is because I can't use any kind of a overhead heating source, which in my tanks I liked to use the dark blue bulb which gives off a faint glow like the moon so it gives the light a little enclosure. Though I did see that some of those tanks come with a place to use overhead lighting.

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And that is a heck of a lot of work. Which is why I don't recommend tanks. I know it CAN be done, but it certainly is not the easiest option and is often not practical. I kept my BPs in tanks very successfully for several years. But it was a pain in the rear.

And you can certainly use an overhead heating source with a pvc cage - RHPs are often used and lighting can easily be installed. I use both.

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Originally Posted by missriss2012

I definitely want to get away from glass tanks.

I need to research more on the T8. That's an enclosure that you assemble yourself, right? What is the best method for heating?

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You do need to assemble the cage, but everything is predrilled for you. All you need is an electric screwdriver. And you have to seal it once assembled (I recommend getting some clear aquarium caulk rather than using the tiny tube AP sends with the cage), but that is very easy. Even my hubby can do it and he's an accountant, not a builder, lol..... :P

The flexwatt Animal Plastics can provide works great. It is basically just like a UTH. When you add the T8 to your shopping cart, to the right there is a list of options. Choose "add belly heat" and they will put in the correct size/wattage of flexwatt for the enclosure you ordered, prewired and ready to attach.

But you could opt to use a UTH if you prefer that. I recommend the Ultratherm from Reptile Basics - wonderful product and they have larger sizes. You could also use an RHP if you'd rather have overhead heat instead of belly heat. Reptile Basics sells these too - take a look at your options on their website under "heating". If you have questions about something in particular, Rich is a big help and always willing to talk!

I have a 3x2x2 pvc enclosure for my GTP and it is set up as a display. We have a 40 watt RHP and a UV/heat light installed. The RHP is on a VE t-stat and temps on his highest perch is about 87 (GTP's like slightly cooler temps). The RHP runs at that all the time. The light is on a timer and provides a slight boost to the ambient temps during the day then lets that drop a touch when it goes out at night. In a 68-70 degree room (finished basement), the ambient is 75-77.

My adult boas are in pvc cages (Animal Plastics and ConstrictorsNW) with 11 or 12" flexwatt as the only heat source. Temps and humidity is perfect with very minimal effort.

I also HIGHLY recommend ConstrictorsNW for a pvc enclosure. Ed has some great stuff. Prices are a little more, but the cages are fantastic and frankly can't be beat in quality. :gj:

I must of missed the cage then, because I seen that some come with the spot for adding lighting up top, but the T8 didn't look like it did.

I only said that because in the first pic I noticed a faint red glow which I'm assuming she has a red heating light and that she probably wanted to keep it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Flexwatt or/and RHP.

I have a 3x2x16" and I use both. The rhp just kinda helps bring up the ambient on the cool side (I know others will disagree but it's been working for me)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

Give her the t10!!

When she gets big, it's gonna be hard to get her out with a 1' height.

And when I got my first snake I was keeping my room about 65-70, and with the tape and rhp I managed perfect temps!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by missriss2012

Sounds great! Did you buy the stand that they sell? I have her 40 breeder on a coffee table right now, and I know the T10 would be too big for it.

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If you can afford it, get the T10!! And the stand is perfect too. They provide a lot of options.

Bobbafet, I agree with you, lol! An RHP can work very nicely in conjunction with the flexwatt.... :gj:

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Originally Posted by Neal

I must of missed the cage then, because I seen that some come with the spot for adding lighting up top, but the T8 didn't look like it did.

I only said that because in the first pic I noticed a faint red glow which I'm assuming she has a red heating light and that she probably wanted to keep it.

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These cages don't have that. But you can install an inexpensive long light fixture inside the cage. :gj:

I will definitely check out ConstrictorsNW! Thanks for the recommendation :)


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Neal

I must of missed the cage then, because I seen that some come with the spot for adding lighting up top, but the T8 didn't look like it did.

I only said that because in the first pic I noticed a faint red glow which I'm assuming she has a red heating light and that she probably wanted to keep it.

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I have the heat lamp only because my bedroom gets down to 68-70 and if I don't use it the temps are far too low for her. I even have a piece of foam board cut to fit the screen lid on her tank so 2/3 of it stays covered to retain more heat.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

These cages don't have that. But you can install an inexpensive long light fixture inside the cage. :gj:

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Well some do, this one did:
http://www.animalplastics.com/terrestrial/T3/T3.GIF

I haven't looked at the other ones.

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Originally Posted by Neal

Well some do, this one did:
http://www.animalplastics.com/terrestrial/T3/T3.GIF

I haven't looked at the other ones.

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I know some do, lol. I meant "these" as in the ones we were currently referring to. :gj:

I just took a look at constrictors nw and their prices are reasonable too!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

I know some do, lol. I meant "these" as in the ones we were currently referring to. :gj:

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I'm willing to bet if you ask them they would cut the holes for you, I'm sure they wouldn't say no and refuse your business.

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Originally Posted by Neal

I'm willing to bet if you ask them they would cut the holes for you, I'm sure they wouldn't say no and refuse your business.

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Probably not, although I'm sure you'd have to pay for it. But they do customize. ;)

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Originally Posted by missriss2012

I just took a look at constrictors nw and their prices are reasonable too!

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Ed is very reasonable, and if you contact him, he is great with communication and will help you a lot. Only thing is, he does not sell heat. That's where the cost comes up a touch. Now if you go with flexwatt, that is cheap. And Rich at Reptile Basics will prewire it for you. For one cage, I doubt you'd pay more than $10-20 for the flexwatt you'd need. :gj:

I will go with ConstrictorsNW every time from now on. The cages are really well made and he's great to work with.

Are there any preferences between file watt and an ultratherm uth other than price?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by missriss2012

Are there any preferences between file watt and an ultratherm uth other than price?


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No - an Ultratherm IS flexwatt, just in a different package. The Ultratherm is slightly more portable and is simply plug and play. The flexwatt has to be trimmed to size and wired. But if you go through Reptile Basics, Rich will do that for you, so..... :gj:

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

No - an Ultratherm IS flexwatt, just in a different package. The Ultratherm is slightly more portable and is simply plug and play. The flexwatt has to be trimmed to size and wired. But if you go through Reptile Basics, Rich will do that for you, so..... :gj:

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Thank you! Flexwatt it is. I think we are going to end up going with the T10 later this year. Even though we really, really like the constrictors nw cages, we will be buying some of their pro stacks in the next few years.


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I went with Proline from Constrictors NW and I am very happy with the cages. I also went with RHP only and it has been working fine for me. The snakes know when to go where for the heat so I don't bother with the flexwatt (I also don't like the heat tape from RB because it is not a UL listed product, major safety concern for me). A lot of people also like Boaphile cages but I didn't go with them because I heard that they tend to absorb bio-fluids over time.

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Originally Posted by ewaldrep

I went with Proline from Constrictors NW and I am very happy with the cages. I also went with RHP only and it has been working fine for me. The snakes know when to go where for the heat so I don't bother with the flexwatt (I also don't like the heat tape from RB because it is not a UL listed product, major safety concern for me). A lot of people also like Boaphile cages but I didn't go with them because I heard that they tend to absorb bio-fluids over time.

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This is one reason I moved to ConstrictorsNW. Any pvc cage can do this. But Ed uses HDPE plastic. The following was taken directly from his website:

"[We use]....marine grade HDPE. It is designed for use in a harsh marine environments on ships. It is UV resistant, it is safe to use for you and your animal. Both USDA and FDA approved, meaning it is safe enough to eat off of. The plastic is 3/8ths inch thick and more rigid than typical HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) because it has 3 layers, a solid layer a slightly expanded layer and another solid layer give it a plywood like effect with an inner grain like wood to resist sagging. To top it off it is made of recycled plastic and is 35% lighter than standard HDPE plastic of the same thickness.

This plastic is ultimately chemical resistant meaning nothing sticks to it.. This makes these cages super easy to clean, the plastic won't stain, and nothing can bond to it."


I am going to be purchasing a few of the PL modular cages. The 48x23x14 is only $230 shipped and I can slap an Ultratherm under it on a Hyrdrofarm t-stat for only a little more. :gj:

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

This is one reason I moved to ConstrictorsNW. Any pvc cage can do this. But Ed uses HDPE plastic. The following was taken directly from his website:

"[We use]....marine grade HDPE. It is designed for use in a harsh marine environments on ships. It is UV resistant, it is safe to use for you and your animal. Both USDA and FDA approved, meaning it is safe enough to eat off of. The plastic is 3/8ths inch thick and more rigid than typical HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) because it has 3 layers, a solid layer a slightly expanded layer and another solid layer give it a plywood like effect with an inner grain like wood to resist sagging. To top it off it is made of recycled plastic and is 35% lighter than standard HDPE plastic of the same thickness.

This plastic is ultimately chemical resistant meaning nothing sticks to it.. This makes these cages super easy to clean, the plastic won't stain, and nothing can bond to it."


I am going to be purchasing a few of the PL modular cages. The 48x23x14 is only $230 shipped and I can slap an Ultratherm under it on a Hyrdrofarm t-stat for only a little more. :gj:

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I called and talked to ConstrictorsNW. Though I called him earlier today he didn't answer and returned my call when I was sleeping(phone on silent), and I didn't recognize the missed call so I called him back about 9:30ish when I woke up to get ready for work and when I spoke to him. I asked about his cages and if he has the cut out for the lights up top and he was like: "I don't recommend that blah blah because something about humidity and lights." Well the thing is, I know that lights hit humidity, I also know how to keep humidity when using a light fixture and the only reason I'm even using one is for actual light. I keep the dimmer on it so it doesn't really put out much heat and at night I turn on the midnight bulb so it mimic the moon. While I appreciate his advice, he doesn't seem to be willing to listen to reason, and while I would pay extra to have the holes cut out up top, he didn't seem willing. Now while I'm not knocking his products, to me customer service is a mandatory thing and I just don't feel like the conversation we had went very good. It's a shame though because I really would of wanted one of those cages.

Neal, may I ask why you are committed to using the lights at all? I am not being critical in the slightest - I just wondered because most boas and pythons do not need lights, uvb or not, and many do better without one. But are you working with a particular species that does need uvb? Or do you feel you need a light to raise ambient temps? If that's the case, there are alternative that won't affect the humidity.....

I'm only asking because a) it will help us understand your point of view and b) that may be why Ed was resistant to customizing his cages in this manner - he's a boa guy and 98% of his cages are designed with boas in mind....

Again, just curious - no offense intended! :gj:

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

Neal, may I ask why you are committed to using the lights at all? I am not being critical in the slightest - I just wondered because most boas and pythons do not need lights, uvb or not, and many do better without one. But are you working with a particular species that does need uvb? Or do you feel you need a light to raise ambient temps? If that's the case, there are alternative that won't affect the humidity.....

I'm only asking because a) it will help us understand your point of view and b) that may be why Ed was resistant to customizing his cages in this manner - he's a boa guy and 98% of his cages are designed with boas in mind....

Again, just curious - no offense intended! :gj:

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If it were a python or a boa I would use a ceramic heat emitter and a UTH. I don't like the FW and I've not dealt with RHP. I'm wanting a 32x23x20 enclosure so I can put my two rufous beaked snakes in there. They are a Diurnal snake so I use a bulb to heat slightly, but mainly for light and at night I turn on the moonlight bulb as I call it which I run both on a dimmer so I dim it so it gives off a faint blow glow to mimic the moon. The temps in the room are well regulated so I don't need to use anything else, though I may add an UTH eventually. I've had a Rufous Beaked Snake before and he was the happiest camper in a 10 gallon with the same setup. That's why I'm set on having the two holes for light fixtures.

Seriously dude, you don't need a light or CHE in one of the commercial snake cages. A RHP or FW will heat it perfectly, and if you're dead set on having a light, put a fluorescent fixture in it. You can get lamps for them that are very dim to mimic moonlight, or just go with a blue LED fixture. Don't ruin the humidity and heat retaining qualities of the cage by cutting holes for light fixtures that are absolutely unnecessary.

I also mean no offense!! FYI

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Originally Posted by rocknhorse76

Seriously dude, you don't need a light or CHE in one of the commercial snake cages. A RHP or FW will heat it perfectly, and if you're dead set on having a light, put a fluorescent fixture in it. You can get lamps for them that are very dim to mimic moonlight, or just go with a blue LED fixture. Don't ruin the humidity and heat retaining qualities of the cage by cutting holes for light fixtures that are absolutely unnecessary.

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I've kept a lot of snakes, it won't ruin the humidity. Trust me I know how to properly upkeep the humidity on snakes that I need to. I don't want to put lights on the inside of the setup, and I don't want FW or RHP. If anything for additional heat I use an UTH. I'm just staying small this time around with two snakes. I already have lamps from when I previously had my snakes along with the bulbs and UTH's. I'm not going to cut holes in it myself either, that's why I want to buy one with the wholes precut and screen on them. So I can set the fixtures on top. It wouldn't do any good for me to do the holes because if that was the case I may as well stick with my 20 gal long and do the same setup I did a few years ago.

I had an 7ft Yellow Anaconda on cypress mulch in a 65 gal long tank, with a ceramic heat emitter and an UTH and I kept temps perfect and well around 80% humidity, so as long as you know how to properly setup things humidity isn't an issue.

What's the point of buying any PVC or plastic caging if you'll just be cutting holes in the top for heat lamps? If that's what you want get wood ones.. Or use a fish tank.

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Originally Posted by Bobbafett

What's the point of buying any PVC or plastic caging if you'll just be cutting holes in the top for heat lamps? If that's what you want get wood ones.. Or use a fish tank.

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I am using an Aquarium, but I would prefer a PVC enclosure. They don't look bad, and I don't want a wooden one. The size wood one I would want would weigh more then the Aquarium. So the point is to having a PVC enclosure customized the way I want, because it'll last longer, it's not glass and it looks nice. I just like to do things my way because my way works and I've never had problems with it.

This is my Pro-Line 48" X 23" x 14" cage from Constrictors NW.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_1018.jpg

If you like Moon Light, I installed the Arcadia Moonlight LED fixture for night OPs.
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_1066.jpg

Here is my write up of the cage. $230 SHIPPED to my door. I added a few things like a lock and perch holders.
http://www.reptileinsider.com/showth...tures-enclosed

My boa likes his cage.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_1030.jpg

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Originally Posted by Gio

This is my Pro-Line 48" X 23" x 14" cage from Constrictors NW.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_1018.jpg

If you like Moon Light, I installed the Arcadia Moonlight LED fixture for night OPs.
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_1066.jpg

Here is my write up of the cage. $230 SHIPPED to my door. I added a few things like a lock and perch holders.
http://www.reptileinsider.com/showth...tures-enclosed

My boa likes his cage.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_1030.jpg

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Your setup looks fantastic! Mine would just have 2 hides and a water bowl on newspaper lol


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by missriss2012

Your setup looks fantastic! Mine would just have 2 hides and a water bowl on newspaper lol


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Thank you. I have a lot in there right now because he's small (3 1/2 feet to 3' 9") since I like to buy the lifetime cage early on I clutter it a bit. Eventually I'll have just 2 hides instead of 4. I like the plants and vines and always have a large and smaller water dish. The perches are utilized a lot by him and 3 sets of perch holders were $15.

This cage has been fantastic. I HIGHLY recommend using a RHP. Pro-Products will customize it to suit the enclosure. Just be ready to give cage type, cage size, and night and day temps of the room the cage will be in and if the room is finished or not finished as in concrete floor or not.

Its my only heat source although I have a water filled space heater in the room.

I'm going to link a Youtube video of a guy with a wonderful snake room. He has the same cage I have. This gives you a live look at the Pro-Line and also the Boaphile cages.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqD_ZK_Ye5M

I was a bit confused after reading the whole thread as to who wanted a new cage, but it looks like 2 people.

Neal, I truly understand the feelings you have about glass cages. I still have my son's Royal in glass. I insulated it, put a nice background in, and have had success using it with the Ultratherm UTH and an overhead heat lamp.

However once you give the plastic cages a run with some of the updated heat sources you will be surprised how easy it is to come to "The dark side" LOL!

Seriously, I'm considering changing to a Pro-Line for the Royal as well. I hate cleaning cages from the top, I don't like heat light running 24/7 even on a Herpstat. I keep great humidity in the glass, but I feel its dated and the cords all have to come in from the top, and then there is the big light.

Absolutely no knock on how you do things, but once I tried the plastic cage I felt like I stepped into a new world.

Like anything there is a small learning curve but you seem dedicated.

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Originally Posted by Gio

I was a bit confused after reading the whole thread as to who wanted a new cage, but it looks like 2 people.

Neal, I truly understand the feelings you have about glass cages. I still have my son's Royal in glass. I insulated it, put a nice background in, and have had success using it with the Ultratherm UTH and an overhead heat lamp.

However once you give the plastic cages a run with some of the updated heat sources you will be surprised how easy it is to come to "The dark side" LOL!

Seriously, I'm considering changing to a Pro-Line for the Royal as well. I hate cleaning cages from the top, I don't like heat light running 24/7 even on a Herpstat. I keep great humidity in the glass, but I feel its dated and the cords all have to come in from the top, and then there is the big light.

Absolutely no knock on how you do things, but once I tried the plastic cage I felt like I stepped into a new world.

Like anything there is a small learning curve but you seem dedicated.

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Yea, I'm a bit old school on that I don't budge on how I do things unless I notice a problem, lol. See for the most part I keep my reptile room already the proper temp, and the light is only to mimic their lifestyle, I usually put a 50w day bulb, and a 25w night bulb and I keep them dimmed real low, but enough so it gives off the lighting. Then again I may need to switch if I were to go with a PVC enclosure, but as I was thinking about it, it wouldn't be fun to clean.

Gio, I love your setup also, could you take some pictures of the top inside of your setup so I can see what you did? I'm curious to see how you mounted your lights. Because I may do that way when I get ready to get a PVC enclosure, or if I do decide to get one.

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Originally Posted by Neal

Yea, I'm a bit old school on that I don't budge on how I do things unless I notice a problem, lol. See for the most part I keep my reptile room already the proper temp, and the light is only to mimic their lifestyle, I usually put a 50w day bulb, and a 25w night bulb and I keep them dimmed real low, but enough so it gives off the lighting. Then again I may need to switch if I were to go with a PVC enclosure, but as I was thinking about it, it wouldn't be fun to clean.

Gio, I love your setup also, could you take some pictures of the top inside of your setup so I can see what you did? I'm curious to see how you mounted your lights. Because I may do that way when I get ready to get a PVC enclosure, or if I do decide to get one.

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Nothing wrong with old school LOL!

Sure thing Neal, The mounting was VERY easy. The heat panel is 2 screws and that strip light is an LED from Home Depot. 2 small screws into a couple brackets.
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_0899.jpg

I AM NOT A HANDYMAN. I did not have any problems, I was just a little nervous about screwing up.

The Arcadia Moonlight LED was purchased through LIGHT YOUR REPTILES. http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_1069.jpg

This picture shows it all mounted the panel, the LED white, and the Moonlight.

I did not like the plastic mounts they had and actually broke one 10 minutes after opening the package. I just went to the hardware store and bought something in the plumbing section that worked.

I really only need one more perch when I decide to go hunting for it. The cage is complete.

Cleaning is easy, but an 18" high will be even easier than mine.

Seriously, if I can do this, about anybody can. The main thing is not to use screws that penetrate one side to the other.

My basement can run cold so I actually used Reflectix insulation on the outer top, bottom and rear with some 1" styrofoam too. I used it on the glass tank too. I figure insulating anything will ease the power bill and make whatever heat source work less hard.

I'd think that bulb lights would dry out the cage.

Neal, thanks for answering my questions! I also was not knocking how you do things - to each their own!! I just wanted to better understand your perspective. :gj:

Gio, I thank you too for posting these additional pictures - very helpful!

I think in this case, the OP will be happiest keeping things simple with a pvc enclosure with flexwatt. No muss, no fuss. If the room is a bit cool, adding an RHP along with the flexwatt will immediately solve any problem of low ambient temps. RHPs, like flexwatt or a UTH, are super easy to mount and regulate. Again, Missriss, because of the quality of workmanship and customer service along with the cage materials, I recommend ConstrictorsNW for you. I think you'll be happiest with this in the end. But it is, of course, your choice! :D

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Originally Posted by rocknhorse76

Seriously dude, you don't need a light or CHE in one of the commercial snake cages. A RHP or FW will heat it perfectly, and if you're dead set on having a light, put a fluorescent fixture in it. You can get lamps for them that are very dim to mimic moonlight, or just go with a blue LED fixture. Don't ruin the humidity and heat retaining qualities of the cage by cutting holes for light fixtures that are absolutely unnecessary.

I also mean no offense!! FYI

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Keeping lots of snakes is not a good idea at all. You surely need some light to protect yourself. May not bright but still enough light for you to judge well:colbert::colbert:

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Originally Posted by JeffMcdonald

Keeping lots of snakes is not a good idea at all. You surely need some light to protect yourself. May not bright but still enough light for you to judge well:colbert::colbert:

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Troll alert!?

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Originally Posted by JeffMcdonald

Keeping lots of snakes is not a good idea at all. You surely need some light to protect yourself. May not bright but still enough light for you to judge well:colbert::colbert:

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What the heck???

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Originally Posted by OsirisRa32

Troll alert!?

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I think I agree...........

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

What the heck???



I think I agree...........

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Yeah saw that earlier and thought maybe it was a language barrier or I misunderstood the point.

Hows this for enough light??
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/DSC00163.jpg

Lookin' good Gio!! What size is that again? Suppose I could scroll up, but I'm too lazy...... :P

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Originally Posted by Gio

Yeah saw that earlier and thought maybe it was a language barrier or I misunderstood the point.

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I dunno...his username is pretty straight up English speaking world seeming to me....kinda doubt a language barrier issue!?

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Originally Posted by Evenstar

Lookin' good Gio!! What size is that again? Suppose I could scroll up, but I'm too lazy...... :P

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Ha nope go ahead and be lazy LOL!

48" x 23" x 14".

The height seems good for now, but 18" is probably easier to reach in and clean. I'm housing a male so I think I'm set unless he gets over 6 1/2 feet long.

Probably not a language barrier on the post. I was just trying to figure it out. I guess if you go through the process to register just to post that so be it. I forgot to hit the "Thanks" button if anybody didn't notice LOL!