Battle of the Thermostats!

Okay guys, I'm looking to build my first rack with it looking quite similar to this one: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-Rack-Complete made by halfdawg. I'm looking at thermostats to keep the heat tape in check and was wondering on what your opinions were on these two. http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/...al-thermostat/ and http://www.reptilebasics.com/ve-300. I really don't know a whole lot about them so your opinions will be valued tremendously.

My opinion.

You can't go wrong with the big 3:
Helix
Vivarium Electronics
Spyder Robotics

I have 2 ve200 models and I love them. The reason I got these is they are available to me locally.

Spyder robotics herpstats have been a favourite of everyone for years. Can't go wrong.

Helix is an awesome thermostat but has no bells and whistles. There are some safety features built into the other ones that the helix doesn't have. I would choose the other 2 before a helix.

We strictly use Vivarium Electronics. I can't say that I can compare my experience since I have only used one thermostat. But I can say that they work so good, I haven't had to consider another.

I really like the VE thermostats. They work well and heat about any size rack. We also have one that is running our homemade incubator. I have no complaints and I feel they are very reasonable price wise.

I love our Herpstats (Spyder Robotics).

Can't beat herpstat! Helix isn't bad for a simple set up either.

I want to make my rack look as close as possible to the one made by halfdawg, just with 41 quart tubs instead of his 32. So with 6 shelves and roughly about 4 feet per shelf, how would I go about heating all 6 with the heat tape? I've never used it before, I do know I need use extra wires to "turn on" the heat tape, but how can you connect them all to one thermostat? I'm looking at the THG heat tape from reptile basics, as well as the THG heat wire/clip/insulator kit. I would need 6 of those to run the full rack.

And now I'm looking at this one http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat1Basic.html what do you guys think of this one? It's by far the cheapest I've looked at.

I can and will stick to your original question;):rofl:
#1 the Helix is nice and a god stat, mine is going on about 4 years old I think with no problems.
#2 the VE would be my choice, I currently have several of the VE-200s and they are running great. I got my first one right when Rich released them. Total best bang for the buck hands down in my mind.

I have some of the new heat tape but I haven't had time to build my next 41q rack so it is not in use yet. Then again, I do trust Rich to deliver a good product. (That means a lot to me and "trust me" it takes a lot for me to say that too)

Now you asked a question that "YOU" need to research on your own as well because it is possible the worst question that gets asked here.
You know opinions, everyone has one and most of the stink.:cool:

Personally, I prefer herpstats. :)

I have a VE-200 and a herpstat 2. The herpstat looks way cooler, i'd go with that.

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Originally Posted by Montypython696

I want to make my rack look as close as possible to the one made by halfdawg, just with 41 quart tubs instead of his 32. So with 6 shelves and roughly about 4 feet per shelf, how would I go about heating all 6 with the heat tape? I've never used it before, I do know I need use extra wires to "turn on" the heat tape, but how can you connect them all to one thermostat? I'm looking at the THG heat tape from reptile basics, as well as the THG heat wire/clip/insulator kit. I would need 6 of those to run the full rack.

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There are a couple of ways to do this. This first way is to run 6 pieces of 4ft heat tape and buy connectors for each strip. Then plug those connectors into a power strip and then plug the power strip into the thermostat. Some people like to do this because it allows easy access to replace the heat tape if you leave the back open or easy to open (able to unscrew it or to use a hinge/lock system to keep it closed until you need to open it). With this method, you have to keep track of temps on each shelf in case your heat tape goes out. If the heat tape goes out where your thermostat is, then your thermostat will kick the heat tape into full power and cause the other rows to get too hot. Because of this, I don't like this method.

You can also cut little 4 inch grooves so that you can run the heat tape from the top shelf to the bottom shelf in one continuous piece of heat tape. You would probably need probably need 30 ft of heat tape. This allows the heat tape to pass along the edge of the shelf between the shelf and the side of the rack. You would only need one set of connectors and your probe would go in the middle of your rack. I personally like this method. The downfall is that if the heat tape goes out, you would need to replace all of it instead of just a small section like in the method above. In addition, sometimes there is a variance in how the heat tape heats up, so you could have a slightly different hot spot on each level. Usually the bottom is the coolest with the top the warmest.

As for the THG heat tape, ALL my racks have it and I love it. I have one homemade rack with the heat tape and connectors in two pieces (but I have each on it's own thermostat since I was using the rack for two different species) and I have two RBI racks that come with the heat tape already in the rack. Heating is pretty consistent throughout. The connections come with a cord that you would plug into the thermostat and the thermostat would plug into the wall. Make sure you connect the connectors to the heat tape and get a good current running to use your heat tape to it's max potential.

Also, just to put my :2cent: in regarding thermostats, I have a Herpstat 2 and I LOVE it. But just for one rack, the Herpstat Basic or Herpstat 1 should be fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BHReptiles

There are a couple of ways to do this. This first way is to run 6 pieces of 4ft heat tape and buy connectors for each strip. Then plug those connectors into a power strip and then plug the power strip into the thermostat. Some people like to do this because it allows easy access to replace the heat tape if you leave the back open or easy to open (able to unscrew it or to use a hinge/lock system to keep it closed until you need to open it). With this method, you have to keep track of temps on each shelf in case your heat tape goes out. If the heat tape goes out where your thermostat is, then your thermostat will kick the heat tape into full power and cause the other rows to get too hot. Because of this, I don't like this method.

You can also cut little 4 inch grooves so that you can run the heat tape from the top shelf to the bottom shelf in one continuous piece of heat tape. You would probably need probably need 30 ft of heat tape. This allows the heat tape to pass along the edge of the shelf between the shelf and the side of the rack. You would only need one set of connectors and your probe would go in the middle of your rack. I personally like this method. The downfall is that if the heat tape goes out, you would need to replace all of it instead of just a small section like in the method above. In addition, sometimes there is a variance in how the heat tape heats up, so you could have a slightly different hot spot on each level. Usually the bottom is the coolest with the top the warmest.

As for the THG heat tape, ALL my racks have it and I love it. I have one homemade rack with the heat tape and connectors in two pieces (but I have each on it's own thermostat since I was using the rack for two different species) and I have two RBI racks that come with the heat tape already in the rack. Heating is pretty consistent throughout. The connections come with a cord that you would plug into the thermostat and the thermostat would plug into the wall. Make sure you connect the connectors to the heat tape and get a good current running to use your heat tape to it's max potential.

Also, just to put my :2cent: in regarding thermostats, I have a Herpstat 2 and I LOVE it. But just for one rack, the Herpstat Basic or Herpstat 1 should be fine.

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Another downside is that you'd be powering every shelf even if you're not using it. I've got a 4 shelf/8 tub rack and am only using 1 shelf at the moment. If I had one long piece I'd be using 4x the power for it.

And on your original question, Herpstat 1 for me. I'm going to be investing in a Herpstat 2 down the line so I can run both my rack and display cases off the same tstat, and moving my Herpstat 1 over to an incubator.

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Originally Posted by ChaosAffect

Another downside is that you'd be powering every shelf even if you're not using it. I've got a 4 shelf/8 tub rack and am only using 1 shelf at the moment. If I had one long piece I'd be using 4x the power for it.

And on your original question, Herpstat 1 for me. I'm going to be investing in a Herpstat 2 down the line so I can run both my rack and display cases off the same tstat, and moving my Herpstat 1 over to an incubator.

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Well, yes, that is a downside. I guess I just assumed it was common knowledge. Usually when people build racks that have use for most of it.

However, if there's not an intended use for majority of the shelves, then go with the individual pieces.

The helix and VE are basically the same. The helix has the longest track record. Spider robotics have lead the safety race they simply have more safty features than any of the others. The remaining two have the best communications they both will email and text alerts. The downside is they are the most expensive. (ecozone vivitarum and herpkeeper)

The herpstat one basic is a great stat however, I would suggest spend a touch more for a HS one, or a little less for the intro+. They both have a mechanical relay it will allow you set over and under set points that if the probe goes cold it will also shut down. This is unique to the herpstats.

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Originally Posted by BHReptiles

Well, yes, that is a downside. I guess I just assumed it was common knowledge. Usually when people build racks that have use for most of it.

However, if there's not an intended use for majority of the shelves, then go with the individual pieces.

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You may intend for it to be full, but it's not always gonna be. Then again, I don't know exactly how much power the unused shelves would use. Are we talking pennies over a month, or dollars?

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Originally Posted by ChaosAffect

You may intend for it to be full, but it's not always gonna be. Then again, I don't know exactly how much power the unused shelves would use. Are we talking pennies over a month, or dollars?

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I suppose it depends on how many shelves aren't being used. None of my racks are full. I've got a 4 tub 28qt rack with continuous heat tape and I'm only using 3 tubs (the 4th is for the snake I have in QT and one is for a male I have on breeding loan) and I have a 3 tub 41qt rack with only 2 tubs full (one is a breeding loan that will go back home as soon as she lays). The other rack is the one that I have the two strips on. One strip for my corns and the other will be turned on for my baby rack when I get babies. I'm not losing -too much- on heat. Now, if you were running a 6 shelf rack and were only using 1 shelf, then yes, it might be waste. But if you using say 4 or 5 of the 6 shelves, then I don't think it would save you that much more on heat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ChaosAffect

Another downside is that you'd be powering every shelf even if you're not using it. I've got a 4 shelf/8 tub rack and am only using 1 shelf at the moment. If I had one long piece I'd be using 4x the power for it.

And on your original question, Herpstat 1 for me. I'm going to be investing in a Herpstat 2 down the line so I can run both my rack and display cases off the same tstat, and moving my Herpstat 1 over to an incubator.

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One additional downside of running a single strips. If you plan on disinfecting a rack (I would suggest that is a good idea) all the 'safe' disinfectants require saturation for at least 10 min that means wet quite wet. Power and liquids do not go well together. Independent strips allows one shelf to be done at a time and not needing to remove the heat from the whole rack at once. Racks save space but I have never found them faster to clean or easier to heat.

Thank you guys for all your input, I really appreciate it, as I have never used thermostats before. I'm looking at the Spyder Robotics Herpastat 1 basic. I love the functions it comes with, as well as the day/night switch I'd put it for 90 degrees for the day and 85 for the night. I'm quite happy about the being able to use a power strip and be able to power the tape that way. Because as of now I only have 5 snakes and don't see a point in heating all 6 rows when I'll only be using two for the moment.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Racks save space but I have never found them faster to clean or easier to heat.

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Never had those problems here.:rolleyes:

and Montypython696, there is no reason for you to drop temps at night or even during breeding.

I have both the VE-200 and the Herpstat. I personally prefer the Herpstat, so I have been buying those.

Here is a comparison video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM9sZ3A4qow

BUT, now that you can get Herpstats that look like this... Herpstat clearly wins in the Dark Side approved department.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps3c669f77.gif

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Never had those problems here.:rolleyes:

and Montypython696, there is no reason for you to drop temps at night or even during breeding.

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I have a plan done for covered tubs like yours I hope to built it someday! It would be a huge time saver!!!


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I use herpstats to power my 3 racks and incubator. Love them. I'm also using the individual strips method on all my racks and it's really nice because if I'm not using a row, it gets unplugged. I also unplug my cornsnake/kingsnake rows during the summer when it gets warm in the snake room so that's nice that I'm able to do that as well.

Monty,
I would strongly suggest a model up or down the one basic is missing a very valuable safety feature. The mechanical relay is more likely to fail off rather than on, additionally it allows the setting of a shutdown with under temp as well as over. With out this feature I would suggest a failsafe back up TStat.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Monty,
I would strongly suggest a model up or down the one basic is missing a very valuable safety feature. The mechanical relay is more likely to fail off rather than on, additionally it allows the setting of a shutdown with under temp as well as over. With out this feature I would suggest a failsafe back up TStat.


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Good call.

Kitedemon, so what you're saying is that I'm better off with the Herpstat 1, instead of the 1 basic? Thanks for the heads up, I'll definitely do some more research before I commit. I've also decided to individually power each shelf instead of running one continuous piece of tape. With me only having five snakes, I don't see a point to heat all six levels when only two will be used for now. I'm going to add on as my collection grows. Thank you guys for all your input! It's great to have a bunch of knowledgeable people I can ask these kind of questions to.

Yes that is it. The HS one or even the intro+
The intro+ is dimming only and they can sometimes buzz with flexwatt and rack systems. It depends on the heat type and the tape.

The HS one is both dimming and pulse, so if dimming is buzzing you can switch to pulse. The theory is dimming is smoother and a touch more accurate. In practice I have never noticed much of a difference. I use a dimming Stat with flexwatt and never have had sound either.

Either case herpstats have the most safety features, and for the sake of a few dollars you can add likely the biggest advance in stats in 20 years, the relay.


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Now my next question. What size tub would you put an adult in? I'm thinking 41 quart. But would a 32 quart work just as well?

28q for males and females
41q for breeder girls.

Okay, now Rubbermaid or Sterilite? The 41 quart for Rubbermaid is 29"L x 18"W x 6"H and the 41 quart for Sterilite is 34 7/8" L x 16 5/8" W x 6 1/8" H. For a space saver, I'm leaning toward the Rubbermaids. But is there any major differences between the two?

Sterilites are the usual norm