Disinfecting and cleaning

What disinfectant and materials do you guys generally use to clean water bowls, decor, and hides?

I'll run them through the dishwasher once with soap, and then rinse with plain water.

I use Simple Green

I use 5/6 water and 1/6 bleach, let it soak for 15 minutes then rinse it all off really well with hot water! Cheap and easy (:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bfirecat

I use Simple Green

---

I'll use this also, but don't forget to rinse!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Samii

I use 5/6 water and 1/6 bleach, let it soak for 15 minutes then rinse it all off really well with hot water! Cheap and easy (:

---

You can do whatever you want, but you don't need nearly that much. 1/4cup of bleach per gallon is enough. 1/6 part bleach would be like 10cups of bleach per gallon. Once again, do as you please, but you could save some money by using less bleach. Also make sure you rinse well, thats a high concentration of bleach.

Light cleaning - chlorhexidine

Heavy Cleaning - Dish Soap & Bleach

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike41793

You can do whatever you want, but you don't need nearly that much. 1/4cup of bleach per gallon is enough. 1/6 part bleach would be like 10cups of bleach per gallon. Once again, do as you please, but you could save some money by using less bleach. Also make sure you rinse well, thats a high concentration of bleach.

---

To specify, i meant that even 1/4cup per gallon is a high concentration, so be sure to rinse well. :)

Chlorihexidine

Chlorhexidine is not a cleaner it is a disinfectant.

Instructions here...
http://datasheets.scbt.com/sc-359873_mfr.pdf
PLEASE READ THEM!

Misuse of disinfectants are as bad as misuse of antibiotics, it just develops resistant strains of bacteria ect.

Disinfectants don't work on soiled items everything MUST be washed first.

Failure to clean before disinfecting neutralizes them almost instantly, you might as well 'disinfect' with water and save your money.

I use F10SCXD as a cleaner and F10SC as a disinfectant. 1:250 as a heavy duty cleaner. For light duty cleaning I use f10 hand soap it is a light purpose soap works really well.

I use Simple green D Pro 3. Is has a mild detergent I. It and a very good disinfectant. I use 15 ml to a 32 oz spray bottle. You can use less for light cleaning but this stuff is cheap. Only downside is you have to mix a new bottle every week because it will lose effectiveness with time. I mix clean and light clean the rest of the week.

Contact time (10 minutes for disinfecting keeping the surface wet) I wash and scrub then mist every few minutes I spray the items to keep me wet. Bleach needs a 20 minute contact time.

Simple green doesn't require rinsing either but I like to always rinse the water bowls anyways. I also ri se the hides and tubs occasionally. I really prefer this over bleach personally. Kills more, less contact time, and safer. Slightly more expensive though. $15 for a jug but it lasts really long. I have been using it for over a year and I am not even half way.

I may try F10 (also a Quat based disinfectant) next but I never see it in stores.

This discussion is where I first learned about it http://www.beardeddragon.org/bjive/v....php?p=1195300 it is a good write up on the topic. Worth a quick read.

I love the f10 system. It is not likely to be on shelves however. It may end up in vet offices but in that case ordering it may be better anyway .

Although it is •highly• likely any soap or detergent will be fine as a pre cleaner f10 recommends the F10scXD be used. I love it a really effective detergent. It is at this point available from the uk. In my case the shipping is less anyway as is the purchase price so my suggestion for any whom want to try it order from the uk/American distributed. John berry in the uk. The biofilm cleaner is also very good!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chlorhexidine and washing soda works best for cleaning of water bowls, decor, etc.. There are many other alternatives, but it's the best disinfecting for cleaning.

Ammonia Windex or soap and water for cleaning.

F10 for disinfecting.

Chlorhexidine, Green Soap, Vinegar, and F10 depending on spot or deep cleaning.

basic disinfecting: chlorhexidine

heavy clean: bleach done to only 10% diluted solution

I use unprinted newsprint, but used to use printed. If newsprint used and the cage is blackened with ink the other cleaners won't get, a quick squirt of rubbing alcohol and scrub well. Alcohol should not be used often at all and should not sit to soak, it will degrade plastics. After alcohol, always rinse really well, let sit for at least a day, and rub down once more with water. Only reason for such heavy action on alcohol is because what it can do to plastics, and supposedly a layer of bad plastic can be left behind with some plastics, which is why the last wipe down. Alcohol isn't common practice for me for these reason, I don't suggest it be common practice for you either, but thought I would reference it for the common problem of ink stains.

Oh yeah, it is the VINEGAR Windex I use, not the Ammonia.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WtGreg

basic disinfecting: chlorhexidine

heavy clean: bleach done to only 10% diluted solution

I use unprinted newsprint, but used to use printed. If newsprint used and the cage is blackened with ink the other cleaners won't get, a quick squirt of rubbing alcohol and scrub well. Alcohol should not be used often at all and should not sit to soak, it will degrade plastics. After alcohol, always rinse really well, let sit for at least a day, and rub down once more with water. Only reason for such heavy action on alcohol is because what it can do to plastics, and supposedly a layer of bad plastic can be left behind with some plastics, which is why the last wipe down. Alcohol isn't common practice for me for these reason, I don't suggest it be common practice for you either, but thought I would reference it for the common problem of ink stains.

---

I did not know alcohol attacked plastics. Thanks for that. I have always used Methyl Hydrate on marker... eek. Do you know if some plastics are more susceptible than others?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kitedemon

I did not know alcohol attacked plastics. Thanks for that. I have always used Methyl Hydrate on marker... eek. Do you know if some plastics are more susceptible than others?

---

small marker spots probably are ok, am referring to spraying the whole cage due to ink sticking over time. I do know that some plastics are susceptible and others aren't (i.e. alcohol comes in plastic bottles at the pharmacy), but don't know which are more and which are less, to what degree they degrade, and so forth. Is safer to assuume it will be when you don't know.
I'll try to find the article I once read on this which had specific examples.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kitedemon

I did not know alcohol attacked plastics. Thanks for that. I have always used Methyl Hydrate on marker... eek. Do you know if some plastics are more susceptible than others?

---

I don't think it does. I think you're thinking of ammonia which is hard on acrylic plastics because it can cause the material to shrink and crack. Alcohol is actually a recommended cleaner of polycarbonate plastics.

Personally for cleaning I use whatever dish washing soap is on sale. I also soak my water bowls and such in a bleach solution for disinfecting.

I cannot find the original article that says the types affected, but found some examples of some that are:
PETE PVC and PS are resistant, but prolonged exposure will have negative effects. PC is not good with alcohol. PMMA (acrylic) is not good with alcohol according to most sources other than personal experience.

If you spray a plastic and there is a 'film' or 'residue' left after wards (something I have seen many times) that is "leaching the plasticiser out of the plastic piece." the best example is the film on car windows that develops as the sun causes the dash to break down. The ineviatble cracking is the result, so same thing (cracking) will be the result of use on affected plastics.
This film is what I meant as the reason for letting dry and cleaning once more with water, you are cleaning that off, but further it is a sign the alcohol negatively reacted with plastic.

Quote:

---

I don't think it does. I think you're thinking of ammonia which is hard on acrylic plastics because it can cause the material to shrink and crack. Alcohol is actually a recommended cleaner of polycarbonate plastics.

---

I was thinking of alcohol on acrylic. I work with it alot. Just google "alcohol and acrylic plastic"

All this info and more can be found on a Google Search. I'ld post links to some I found, but dunno that BP.net wants outside links posted, so you will have to check for yourself.

I personally use dish soap and just scrub well with a brush and a scrubber pad on water dishes and hides, which I clean once per week unless they get gross faster. I use the antibacterial Palmolive that uses lactic acid and I replace the scrubber pad and brush frequently. If there was anything nasty on a hide I'll dry it and spray it with F10 and let it sit and I periodically, once a month or two, spray all water dishes and hides down with F10 after washing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike41793

You can do whatever you want, but you don't need nearly that much. 1/4cup of bleach per gallon is enough. 1/6 part bleach would be like 10cups of bleach per gallon. Once again, do as you please, but you could save some money by using less bleach. Also make sure you rinse well, thats a high concentration of bleach.

---

Thanks, but It's really not that much when I do it. I have a spray bottle that I do it in, and one mix lasts me like 6 months. I shake it before every use, then empty the cage, spray everything down, let it sit for 15 minutes, then wipe down. After that I rinse it all down until the smell of bleach is basically gone. So far I've had no problems!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Samii

Thanks, but It's really not that much when I do it. I have a spray bottle that I do it in, and one mix lasts me like 6 months. I shake it before every use, then empty the cage, spray everything down, let it sit for 15 minutes, then wipe down. After that I rinse it all down until the smell of bleach is basically gone. So far I've had no problems!

---

I am going to point out an issue. Bleach is quite unstable, once diluted it only remains effective for 24 hours and less if it is not in an opaque bottle. There is a reason bleach bottles are always solid white. mix what you need and use it and discard the left overs. Once a bleach bottle is opened and exposed to air (especially used 1/2 down) it is only good for 6 months.

This is true of many (chlorahexadine) different times but basically unstable. The biggest advantage of F10, the stability it is stable diluted for 6 months.
ref.
http://sheltermedicine.vetmed.ufl.ed...ach-update.pdf
http://weill.cornell.edu/ehs/forms_a...al_safety.html

Ok I am a total noob here but after reading this I'm a little confused. the reptile store I got my supplies from told me not to use any soap or cleaner and to just scrub using hot water and to wipe down the cage with a damp cloth?? Should I be cleaning the bowls and hides weekly with a cleaner or?

Another thing to consider is contact times. F10 is part of the QUAT group of disinfectants. They require a 10 minute contact time (wet time). Bleach requires 20 minute wet contact time. Also the QUAT group kills more bacteria etc. it is also way safer than bleach. Diluted it doesn't require rinsing though I would definitely wipe dry. I rinse water bowls out just to be extra safe.

I use a cheaper QUAT called Simple green D-Pro 3. This is a disinfectant with a mild detergent with mild herbal scent. (Simple Green D-PRO 5 is just disinfectant with no scent). I find it works very well as a one step solution. The downside is once mixed it only lasts about a week before it loses it effectiveness. Now I mix a 32oz spray bottle weekly. Only need 15ml for deep clean and disinfectant. You can use 10ml for everyday cleaning but I just use 15 because its so cheap. I bought it at Canadian tire for $15 two years ago and haven't even used half! I used it on a large enclosure with lots of decore. It was a 4'x2'x2' cage. Now that I have a rack for BP's and no beardie :( I use less because there is no decore. Just a hide and water dish. I know Coccidea was a big issue with beardies and a rough thing to kill. Bleach wouldn't even kill it but apparently all the QUAT disinfectants do. They are hospital grade.

Highly recommend f10 or any of the QUAT disinfectants. Just make sure that you use a soap to clean before disinfecting if you don't use a combo like simple green. Side note: I clean and scrub with simple green and then spray simple green again to disinfect. I find I usually have to re-apply every 5 minutes in order to keep the surface wet. This is how I do things and thee are probably better ways. This works for me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jclaiborne

Ok I am a total noob here but after reading this I'm a little confused. the reptile store I got my supplies from told me not to use any soap or cleaner and to just scrub using hot water and to wipe down the cage with a damp cloth?? Should I be cleaning the bowls and hides weekly with a cleaner or?

---

People tend to go overboard when using cleaning chemicals, and many of them can make your snake very sick or kill it if it's not completely rinsed away.

I put plastic hides, water bowls, etc. through the dishwasher to clean them. The few wooden hides I have are cleaned in a mild dish soap solution, rinsed well, and then baked in an oven at 180*F for 20 minutes to kill nasties, as any harsh chemicals used on them would be difficult to rinse off since wood is porous.

Don't laugh, I've found that non-alcohol based unscented baby wipes are great for spot-cleaning the tubs. Once done spray with water and wipe with a paper towel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bcr229

People tend to go overboard when using cleaning chemicals, and many of them can make your snake very sick or kill it if it's not completely rinsed away.

I put plastic hides, water bowls, etc. through the dishwasher to clean them. The few wooden hides I have are cleaned in a mild dish soap solution, rinsed well, and then baked in an oven at 180*F for 20 minutes to kill nasties, as any harsh chemicals used on them would be difficult to rinse off since wood is porous.

Don't laugh, I've found that non-alcohol based unscented baby wipes are great for spot-cleaning the tubs. Once done spray with water and wipe with a paper towel.

---

Thanks for the input, I have a wood hide and branches in my corns tank and plastic in the baby balls, I will give the wood a try in the oven, should the cleaning be done once a week?

There is cleaning which you are speaking of, I use soap and water. I clean water bowls for example every 3 days (when I replace all the water, the rest of the time I top it up unless it is fouled) If a bowl has junk in it (substrate or pee/poo or feels slimy) I clean it and then disinfect it. I personally use F10 but there is a whole range of disinfectants.

Cleaning should be done as needed, and soap water is the easiest some choose detergents I also use baby wipes they are simple and easy.

Disinfecting is different. It is the treatment of surfaces to kill bacteria, virus, spores, moulds, and fungus. Many choose to do a 'deep' cleaning (full scrub all surfaces and disinfect) once a month or longer. I personally do every two regardless and if it smells anything other than substrate sooner. In between I spot clean and/or surface wipe with water or wipe. Water bowls tend to grow things so they get a more frequent deep clean weekly, and just a regular cleaning in between.

I agree with Kitedemon. Water bowls I get a little more anal about. I do a full disinfect once a month or some times every other month. That is when where I make sure all surfaces get that 10 minute contact time. Other than that I mix a new bottle of cleaner weekly and spot clean. I like the sime green only because I know the detergent is mild and it works well. I usually just spray it on paper towel to spot clean. I hated using bleach because I always worried I didn't rinse it well enough (paranoid). I love havingthe spray bottle for spot cleaning because it just saves me time. I used baby wipes all the time with my beardie because I used tile for substrate. For the snakes I find them much cleaner and really just replace soiled spot/area of substrate. I do spray and wipe the surface below too.

Water gets replaced every 2-3 days and give them a quick wash amd rinse. I disinfect water bowls weekly. I actually spend very little time in maintanence when I think about it. I only have three and only an on 6-8 as permanent pets.

The water bowl we wash with disinfectant hand soap and rinse well every time we change it. About once a month (usually after shed) we'll take apart the entire enclosure, use a clorox wipe and rinse well, then put it back together. Most important step: giving rotten snake a warmish bath (between 80-90F) so she poops in the tub, rather than nice clean enclosure. Then bleach the snot out of the tub.

Question: Is it ok to use baby wash (no tears/soapless) on my stinky snake? Some of the bath threads mention using it, but I wanted confirmation that I'm not hurting her with it!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jclaiborne

Thanks for the input, I have a wood hide and branches in my corns tank and plastic in the baby balls, I will give the wood a try in the oven, should the cleaning be done once a week?

---

Monthly when the full tank gets cleaned and disinfected is fine. I'm slowly switching over to plastic hides as I've found the wood absorbes urine and feces or starts molding very easily, those get tossed. IMO wood hides are a waste of money.

We use F10 for cleaning and disinfecting. We generally wash with Dawn dish soap and rinse. Then spray down with F10 and let sit for 10-15minutes. Wipe and go. It has worked well for us for a long time with no issues. As for using bleach, we mix 1:10 ratio for bleach cleaning solution that we clean various tables and carts in our building. Also, as far as water bowls, we use disposable deli cups and replace weekly. No cleaning required and we know that no contaminates are in the water. We do change sooner if the BP gets the urge to "go" in its water bowl. Good luck!