Just got a ball python - how am I doing?

Okay so last Wednesday I got a nice ball python. I didn't exactly measure it, but it
is 3 feet or so. I was told not to really handle him for a week. The store I got him
from said to feed him around Saturday, but I fed him yesterday and it took down the
mouse the second I dropped it in front of him. I put him in a big box to feed.

So here is my setup:
-2 identical caves
-1 big bowl of water
-1 digital thermometer, which also measures humidity
-1 laser thermometer so confirm both temperature readings
-100W ceramic heat emitter

I just need to add wallpaper around the tank so it looks more secure for him.
http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps64a8be58.jpg

Hot side temperature:
Digital thermometer - 88.2
Laser thermometer - 88.5 to 89

Cold side temperature: (This shouldn't be a problem since my house temp is like 77)
Digital thermometer - 78.8
Laser thermometer - 79.5

Humidity is around 35% under the hot cave and 45% under the cold cave but but I heard
I don't have to worry too much about that and that if I just spray it once a day when he
starts shedding that should be fine.

QUESTIONS:

***So when I first got him he moved around a lot, but recently he has stopped
moving (I know they are nocturnal) which should be good since I read that a hiding
python is a happy python, BUT he was in his cold side until he hate, than when he
ate he still went to the cold side.... I am guessing he will move his ass to the warm
side if that's what he wanted. So I guess that's not an issue?

*** I went to go get his first meal. I wanted to get him a very small rat, but they didn't
have that so I had to get the biggest mouse I could find. Here is a quick video of his first
feeding. Can someone tell me if that is a decent size meal for him? I think it should be a
little bigger next time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0HwyGS_b2g

***Please point out if you think I am doing something right/wrong. Any advice is appreciated
and if you think I am doing well with something, (ex: temperatures) than let me know too so I
can start to feel comfortable with all of this....

Thanks guys. Oh and his name is Crixus!

PS: I think he is about 3 years old... Not sure.

Sounds good!
Put a wet towel over the screen, humidity is still important for their overall hydration.
I think he could take 2 mice if there are not rats around.
Maybe try switching the caves in case he prefers one?
You should cover the back and sides of the tank to make it seem more secure to him.

Looks pretty good. Covering the sides would be a good idea. Also, I didn't see you mention this, so I'm curious if you have an under the tank heating pad for belly heat? As far as the meal size goes, I would definitely say increase the size a bit. That mouse looks pretty small. I feed my 9 month old BP bigger meals than that. You should aim to get a meal that's about the same size as the thickest part of their body, or just a tad bigger. Other than that and the heating pad, everything seems good. :) Welcome to the addiction!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Capray

Sounds good!
Put a wet towel over the screen, humidity is still important for their overall hydration.
I think he could take 2 mice if there are not rats around.
Maybe try switching the caves in case he prefers one?
You should cover the back and sides of the tank to make it seem more secure to him.

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Yeah I will be buying wallpaper first thing in the morning. Should I try to feed him in 7 days? He is about 3 years old I think.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BeccaBurrr

Looks pretty good. Covering the sides would be a good idea. Also, I didn't see you mention this, so I'm curious if you have an under the tank heating pad for belly heat? As far as the meal size goes, I would definitely say increase the size a bit. That mouse looks pretty small. I feed my 9 month old BP bigger meals than that. You should aim to get a meal that's about the same size as the thickest part of their body, or just a tad bigger. Other than that and the heating pad, everything seems good. :) Welcome to the addiction!

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No I do not have a heat pad. I heard that the thicker bodied snakes can get themselves burnt or something by trapping the heat. I just have a ceramic heat emitter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turkspartan

Yeah I will be buying wallpaper first thing in the morning. Should I try to feed him in 7 days? He is about 3 years old I think.

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7 daqys is good. The heat pad thing is not true, if he is hot he will move to the cool side. Get a rheostat and a heat pad, set it to 85º F.

Will 85 be enough? I have atleast half an inch of bedding.

Petsmart sells heatpads but they dont have a temperature control and I dont know what you mean by rheostat or how it works... Does that control its temp or something?

I would suggest an UTH (under tank heater), as belly heat is more important to ball pythons.

Other than that, nice set up!

Do you happen to watch Spartacus? ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bfirecat

I would suggest an UTH (under tank heater), as belly heat is more important to ball pythons.

Other than that, nice set up!

Do you happen to watch Spartacus? ;)

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Yeah :) I got pissed off when the show ended, but lucky for me Crixus also plays in Arrow in a similar role :)

- - - Updated - - -

So since it looks like I under fed him, should I feed him again, or should I just wait for his next meal time which is in like 6 days and feed him properly?

I would offer food the following week and feed him a small rat. He can eat that weekly.

As for the lamp, while it can work and be successful, we usually recommend a UTH. You can use the ones at Petco/Petsmart you just have to have a thermostat to regulate the heat so it doesn't get too hot. Here are some options that are all function, the last one being the best and most highly recommended. I have one myself and LOVE it.

Budget: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S
Mid-grade: http://www.reptilebasics.com/johnson-a-419
Best: http://www.spyderrobotics.com/store/ (you can use the Intro, Intro+, Basic or the Herpstat 1 for just one cage. I have the Herpstat 2 - that's an option if you plan to run both the CHE or lamp with your UTH)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BHReptiles

I would offer food the following week and feed him a small rat. He can eat that weekly.

As for the lamp, while it can work and be successful, we usually recommend a UTH. You can use the ones at Petco/Petsmart you just have to have a thermostat to regulate the heat so it doesn't get too hot. Here are some options that are all function, the last one being the best and most highly recommended. I have one myself and LOVE it.

Budget: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S
Mid-grade: http://www.reptilebasics.com/johnson-a-419
Best: http://www.spyderrobotics.com/store/ (you can use the Intro, Intro+, Basic or the Herpstat 1 for just one cage. I have the Herpstat 2 - that's an option if you plan to run both the CHE or lamp with your UTH)

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Thank you very much for the info!

Isn't the hot side better for digesting? I know that 75 degrees is the bare minimum for them and he is choosing to be on the cold side around 78. I just don't get it lol.

Just an idea, what if I moved the heat lamp on to the cold side (basically switched the hot and cold side) to see if he will still move to the new cold side or stay in his current cave. I guess this will tell me if he likes his current cave more or if he likes the cold side. Both of his caves are 100% identical though...

Am I just over thinking the fact that he just likes the cold side?

I keep my bp at 90 on the hot side and around 75-80 on the cool side, room temperature. I have both a heating pad on the hot side and a day time and night time bulb to simulate the day/night cycles. For summer 14 hour days, 10 hour nights. For winter, 10 to 11 hour days. I change her water daily as well since she bathes and drinks from it. I have alot of greenery in my tank. They like to hide, as you know. I have a hidey hole on the left, and one on the right.

I also have a temp gauge on the left and right side as well as a humidity gauge in the middle of the tank. I keep the humidity around 50%. I spray the tank with a water bottle, and cover the top of the lid halfway to increase it as needed. They say to watch how much water you place in their water dish as a means of controlling humidity too.

As far as that meal is concerned, I agree with a previous post: get prey equivalent to the widest part of the body of the snake. The mouse did look a bit small. Be careful with live prey: they can hurt your snake, esp. if the snake does not eat it and you leave the mouse/rat in there with it. My bp eats frozen mice. Per what I have read, frozen is the way to go so that your snake is not harmed.

I am a new snake owner too. In addition to coming on here, I am on my second book of three about bp's. They are really interesting pets for sure.

Good luck!

- Kat :snake:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turkspartan

Will 85 be enough? I have at least half an inch of bedding.

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You'll find that bedding can trap heat. 1/4 to 1/2 an inch is about right for over an UTH. My hot side is set to several degrees lower than it's actual temperature. I would shop Reptile Basics for one, the sizes are better for larger cages, imo.

A rheostat is a variable voltage switch, dimmer switch. I think a thermostat is a wiser choice, even for overhead heating like your CHE.

It's ok to feed your snake in his enclosure.

Any ideas about why he only stays on the cool side?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turkspartan

Any ideas about why he only stays on the cool side?

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Because he's not too cold. I know that seems too obvious but it keeps me from over thinking the same question. I have to trust that my snake moves when I'm asleep.

Please consider the UTH. This will help you by eliminating variables in your husbandry and alleviate some of your worry.

Thanks! There is no doubt I will be grabbing a UTH, probably later on today.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turkspartan

Thanks! There is no doubt I will be grabbing a UTH, probably later on today.

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And something to regulate it, even a $15 dimmer from the Home Depot or wherever.

A good thermostat can control your UTH and your light fixture. What may seem like a steep investment up front can often be less costly over time due to their expandability and durability.