Possible RI?

Hello guys so I have a spider ball python and I think h might have an ri... He is in a tank as I don't have a huge collection ATM and only own 3 snakes so it is a the temp of the exo terra heat pad, but I think he may hav an ri. He does not have foam/saliva around his mouth, but in his water dish there is some saliva he has also been off food for 3 weeks but I don't hear weazing any suggestion would be great thanks.

In the suspicion of an RI, almost everyone here would recommend getting to a vet. It doesn't sound like you have too much to worry about, if you're not hearing wheezing or seeing discharge or excessive face rubbing. But a trip to the vet can only help and will be able to diagnose and treat infection before it gets deadly.

Another standard question is what your husbandry is. Humidity, temps, hides, heat sources, etc. These can all go a long way in sorting out issues on here.

Best of luck! :)

Edit: ALSO, quarantine him from the rest of your collection. Separate room, fresh substrate for all, etc. Just in case, wouldn't want anything to spread. Can't hurt.

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Originally Posted by Archimedes

In the suspicion of an RI, almost everyone here would recommend getting to a vet. It doesn't sound like you have too much to worry about, if you're not hearing wheezing or seeing discharge or excessive face rubbing. But a trip to the vet can only help and will be able to diagnose and treat infection before it gets deadly.

Another standard question is what your husbandry is. Humidity, temps, hides, heat sources, etc. These can all go a long way in sorting out issues on here.

Best of luck! :)

Edit: ALSO, quarantine him from the rest of your collection. Separate room, fresh substrate for all, etc. Just in case, wouldn't want anything to spread. Can't hurt.

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Ok thanks, do you know the estimated price it will cost to get him to a vet in Canada?

If you don't see mucus or labored breathing that can make pops and clicks I don't think you have to much to worry about. A snake can have water come back up after drinking if it is picked up or if it is startled. My bloods and my ball will both do this. It is a clear watery substance that is not really slimy like mucus but not the same consistency as water. Does that sound like what you have?

What worries me is your husbandry. You say the tank is at the temp of a heat pad. Heat pads should always be regulated. They get way to hot and can easily burn your snakes. Also the heat pad will not heat the actual tank it will only heat the tank floor it is under. If your room is not around 80 degrees it is a safe bet the tank is to cold if your only using heat pads.

Tell us more about the setup (pics really help) and tell us what your temps are for the hotspot and the ambient temps of both the cool and warm side. Also include the humidity level. The reason it is not feeding could very easily be a husbandry problem that can also cause an RI.

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Originally Posted by KMG

If you don't see mucus or labored breathing that can make pops and clicks I don't think you have to much to worry about. A snake can have water come back up after drinking if it is picked up or if it is startled. My bloods and my ball will both do this. It is a clear watery substance that is not really slimy like mucus but not the same consistency as water. Does that sound like what you have?

What worries me is your husbandry. You say the tank is at the temp of a heat pad. Heat pads should always be regulated. They get way to hot and can easily burn your snakes. Also the heat pad will not heat the actual tank it will only heat the tank floor it is under. If your room is not around 80 degrees it is a safe bet the tank is to cold if your only using heat pads.

Tell us more about the setup (pics really help) and tell us what your temps are for the hotspot and the ambient temps of both the cool and warm side. Also include the humidity level. The reason it is not feeding could very easily be a husbandry problem that can also cause an RI.

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I don't have a temp gun and don't have a humidity gauge in the tanks I think the 2 might be off feed because of the season time as I have a ball around 400 grams still eating like a champ. And for the slimy stuff it just like backwash in a cup of water it is just a little it of saliva in the water none on the paper towels or anything. They have both been eating weekly and have just suddenly gone off feed I think it's for the winter time here in Canada. Thanks guys.

Yea I know it's winter and that means it is really cold up there. What I was suggesting is your cages may have gotten to cold with the climate change and refuse to feed because of it. Again a heat pad will not heat a cage thoroughly.

It is winter here and though not as cold there it is still enough that I have had to adjust heaters for my snakes. None of my snakes are refusing to eat because they are still at their ideal temps.

Are you not tracking your cage temps? It seems to me that your lack of information of your cages may be from not having the proper equipment to collect the information. We can not tell you for sure that your snakes will be fine and can only help you if you help us do it.

I hope you have digital thermometers and not cheap stick on ones.

Not tracking your cage conditions and not properly carrying for your snakes with proper conditions is a recipe for disaster.

Like I already said if your snakes are not in a room that is near 80 degrees they are to cold and they may take a bad turn before you have time to correct things.

First question is how large is the snake in question the not eating trick is a game for adults small snakes don't play it. How is your husbandry? especially your ambient air temps?

I would second the vet. Mucus is not something you should find. I would suggest having a culture done this will tell you if it is RI and in the event of RI it will tell the vet what meds will work best. This should be done before meds are given after it is close to useless.

Vets visits vary greatly. I can't tell you what your vet will charge but my vet charges about 70$ for a hour hour consultation with the vet and tech, the culture is about 45$ on top the meds are cheap so I get prepared injections (pre loaded) for less than a dollar a shot.

Update? Any more signs of RI?

Well the spider is still off feed the female had ate last night so Im not sure what's wrong with him I don't think it's an ri I think it might just be the season/time of the year... He is 700 grams ill try to offer food again if not ill make a vet ap thanks guys.

Why do you ignore our questions? We are trying to help you but you are not making it easy.

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Originally Posted by KMG

Why do you ignore our questions? We are trying to help you but you are not making it easy.

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Youre so negative... You asked me how big he is and I told you. You also suggested the vet and I said I would go.. And I'm bit sure about the other question I'm not ignoring you it's that I don't know..

That is the problem. You are not tracking your snakes ambient temps. If you are not heating the cage with a che, rhp, bulb, or room heater your cage is going to be at room temp. What is your homes current temp? I really doubt it is 80 which is what the ambient temp of your cages should be.

Snakes will not eat if they are to cold. Being to cold can also start a laundry list of other health issues.

I am not trying to be negative or rude. I am trying to make the best effort I can to assist you in properly carrying for your snakes. I have asked for your room temps several times and have not gotten a answer. If you really do not know you need to get a thermometer today and see what it is.

I am only here because I care. If I did not I would have never replied to your thread. Help us, help you and your snakes.

In this thread the op found the ambient temps were to low. They added flexwatt to the cool side to provide the correct temps and the snake started eating a few days later. Maybe you could add another uth source to keep the cool side surface at 80. If not I would add a heat lamp.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-temps-too-low

Being stubborn to those attempting to help. Happens a lot.
Tell ya what. Without this site and some AMAZING users my little bp would be dead.
Hope he starts listening to advice.

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Originally Posted by Tannerrrtx

Being stubborn to those attempting to help. Happens a lot.
Tell ya what. Without this site and some AMAZING users my little bp would be dead.
Hope he starts listening to advice.

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It's not that I'm not listening... And for my temps out side of the cage it's about 18 degrees so I would say about 70 degrees for you I'm guessing.

For me?

what kind of heating elements are you using?
do you have a thermometer in the tank? If so, what does it read?
any idea on the relative humidity?

Help us, help you.

Like I said. I would have a dead python without these guys.

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Originally Posted by Skilla6000

It's not that I'm not listening... And for my temps out side of the cage it's about 18 degrees so I would say about 70 degrees for you I'm guessing.

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70 is way to cold. You need to add a heat source. What type of cage are you using? Need to know so we can suggest the best option for you. Describe your setup so we know how many cages need more heat.

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Originally Posted by KMG

70 is way to cold. You need to add a heat source. What type of cage are you using? Need to know so we can suggest the best option for you. Describe your setup so we know how many cages need more heat.

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wellnhe has been fine for 6 months eating. I'm using a 20 gallon tank large exo terra hide on 1 side water dish on the other. Tank is 3 feet long 1 foot wide 1 foot high.

Add a lamp. Bump it to 85-90. Wait a week. Offer food.

A lamp with a sixty watt bulb would probably do the trick. It may require a dimmer to get it dialed in. You can also hang it from a lamp stand and raise or lower the lamp depending on if you need more or less heat. This also makes the bulbs last longer because you are not constantly moving it.

You should also have a hide on both the warm and cool side. You also need to get some digital thermometers to track the temps. I don't know what to suggest since I don't know what is available up there.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptil...med+lamp+stand

Why are you guessing? Just measure it! 70º is far too cold. At the dead lowest 75ºF it is quite likely with 70ºF ambients you will get RI (perhaps you know that already?) Generally 80ºF is a good target with periods as low as 75 and as high as 85ºF 18ºF or C I am guessing C 18ºF makes no sense at all. Has this changed (like when the heating got turned down at the beginnings of spring?) Often our homes (especially us in cold climates) have changes indoors dry in winter and cool in fall and spring before the heating is on all the time. This change can mean rebalancing the enclosure.