Alternative rack materials?

So my boyfriend got a bonus check from work and we were planning on using the money to build a rack. We're not sure of number of tubs or anything yet, we haven't gotten that far. But we can't get expanded PVC there (the money has to be used at the store he works at) and we've already ruled out Melamine due to the weight. Well, not completely but we want to avoid it.

I'd be super interested to hear of anything other than PVC or Melamine to build a rack out of and also see it.

Metals will work well, especially aluminum the only downside is that you have to ground the rack or risk getting shocked.

High density foam could be made to work, but it might have longevity issues as well as heating issues.

Glass sheets could even be made to work if you have the right tools.

Knowing what is available would help.

He works at Menards, so think kinda what Lowes and Home Depot have? We have $200 or so for the rack itself (not the tape or thermostat or tubs or anything, just the rack.)

ok, well here are a few more things that come to mind:

Artificial decking. As long as it doesn't have any fungicides or other chemicals it should be safe and relatively easy to work with

I'm sure that plastic fencing material could be made to work

You could modify a cabinet or workbench

Closet shelving materials might work

You could make a cool looking rack out of ceramic tile and pavers. Just use liquid nails to hold it all together.

House siding could work.

really anything that has some strength and weather resistance will work.

Baltic birch ply. It is about the best wood material I have found (aside from true marine plys like brynzeel) the cores are fine and there are a lot that makes the material stable strong and allows for a thinner with the same strength.

http://images59.fotki.com/v111/photo...icbirch-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

The only Baltic birch we found was 1/4" but we did decide on plain Birch 1/2" plywood and are going to make an 8-shelf 31-quart/6-quart combo rack. Is polyeuruthane enough to seal the wood or should we use something more specialized?

Once upon a time I had little money to invest so I bought a melamine book shelf, locking lid tubs, heat tape, thermostat and put this together.

Cheap, effective, and it allows you to buy a proportional thermostat to keep the best temps with.
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...amineshelf.jpg

Sure you can build a cheap rack for $200, but then you need a reliable thermostat ...

We'll be investing in a thermostat, definitely. It's just that this is basically free money and we're planning on embiggening our collection and want to not have to worry about space. It's almost stupid not to take advantage of this. The money we're not spending on buying a rack is going to the snake fund and a thermostat.

I use 3/4" plywood then paint the outside and edges and use water based polly on the inside. i also use locking lid tubs and use the lid. i figure with a wood rack better to keep as much moisture away from the wood as possible.

Polyurethane well cured is fine. I would venture to say that Baltic birch 1/4 is stronger than 1/2 poplar with a thin veneer of birch. It is odd that you cannot find heavier, I can order it from 1/16 to 1 inch. Odd it is great to work with.

I think it's supposed to have a thicker veneer of birch, but I don't remember off the top of my head. I just worry that the 1/4" isn't going to be strong enough to support the weight...

do they have this is so get 3 of them they hold 9 28qt bins each or 9 41 qt for 2 and screw a pice of board on the bottom of each and cut down pipes to size of tuibs like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLDxk2yp2Vs

Looks like they do have the 1/2" baltic birch ply, it's just special order only. What a pain. At least we're not in a hurry.

Do you guys think a stain + poly combo will work, or should the poly be separate?

Any opinions on the stain/poly combo vs. stain and poly separate?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Inarikins

Any opinions on the stain/poly combo vs. stain and poly separate?

---

If you use poplar/birch ply, I'd steer clear of trying to stain it. Neither one of those take stain well without a topcoat sealant of some sort. The stain tends to "splotch" and look like crap once you're done. On the flip side, birch and poplar both take paint very well if you go that route rather than trying to stain it. Either one of those two woods would do well for a rack, especially if you get them as plywood. That would help the dimensional stability so the wood wouldn't expand/contract as much as what a solid board would (end checking and cupping/bowing, etc.). I personally wouldn't go less than 1/2" thick but that's just me. That would give a little more stability and keep the screws from tearing through as badly as they would if you used 1/4". If you're set on staining the wood rather than painting it, you could look for hardwood plywood: oak (red or white), mahogany, etc. Those would take stain better than what would poplar or birch but they're also more expensive and might be harder to find. I know Home Depot carries them but not sure on Mendards. Good luck and please share some photos when you get it built if you go that route. :gj:

youbeyouibei FYI Baltic birch is birch veneers no poplar, just birch in and out. It is far stronger than popular/fir plys like oak that is just a veneer layer. All the standard 'hardwood' plywoods are structurally popular or fir cores. Okoume and Mahogony are wicked expensive they are the marine grades. I have done a lot of work with both super strong and tough, but for example the last order of Brynzeel AAA was $120 a sheet. It is quite expensive hard to justify as full marine grade is way over kill.

I have never had an issue with staining BB ply. Although I like plain birch personally so I have only stained it a few times typically I just varnish it. I would not use a single stain varnish but a varnish over stain. You want the outside layer to be plastic with no dyes.

We will be going with the Baltic Birch. It just has to be special ordered, they don't carry the 1/2" in stock. And I guess we'll be doing the stain + poly route, thanks!

My $50 Home Depot Shelving system made into a rack. Add Heat Tape, T-Stat, 32 qt locking tubs (cut legs of shelf to size).

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...Ball/Rack1.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Inarikins

The only Baltic birch we found was 1/4" but we did decide on plain Birch 1/2" plywood and are going to make an 8-shelf 31-quart/6-quart combo rack. Is polyeuruthane enough to seal the wood or should we use something more specialized?

---

Diamond coat floor finish should work well.
It has the wear resistance you want for sliding tubs in and out.
Keep in mind while drying it will off gas VOC's so preferably should be allowed to dry for several days in a garage or shed away from yourself, pets and children.
If you don't like the look of plywood, you can paint before applying the floor finish.

Is one good, thick coat of poly enough or should I do a second coat? (Doesn't matter to me either way, I might do the second coat no matter what) Also as soon as it's done and put together I"ll make sure to take pics or do a video.

Bummer about melamine. It works so well! And clean up is super easy. Yes a little heavy but that's why you add wheels :) I have made 4 racks out of
melamine and I don't think I would go with anything else. Yes it's a little heavy but well worth it as long as its reinforced

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/08/y6enetyt.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/08/tevujare.jpg

When using aluminum tape to hold down the heat tape, do you cover the whole strip of tape, or just the edges? Does it matter?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Inarikins

When using aluminum tape to hold down the heat tape, do you cover the whole strip of tape, or just the edges? Does it matter?

---

Just the edges. Yes it matters. And make sure not to use aluminum tape to hold the probe in place

Just seal up all cut areas no big deal. I far far prefer pvcx as it is fire retardant as well.

Heat tape like flexwatt is a radiant heat source. It reflects from shiny objects aluminum is especially good at reflecting radiant heat (emergency Mylar blankets) placing it over the element will reflect some of the generated heat back to the heat source. Inefficient use of power and it could over heat the heater a d cause problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk