Heat tape questions

Is it better to solder THG heat tape or use the new connectors? I am leaning toward soldering because I am wiring 6 pieces in parallel. I just don't know how the new connectors are going to work for parallel wiring.

I am testing the new connections now but so far I love the easy of connecting them. The total area of actual contact is great and when using the THG supplied tool and a hole punch very simple to connect. All connections are very tight and secure. I have soldered all my heat tape connections in the past but I am starting to think Rich and THG have a great idea there is a lot more contact area that the older calorique flexwatt crimp connectors which I never liked but the new connections when done as described on the Reptile Basics webpage seem to work great. I have been running my test connections for a couple weeks and they appear to be working great :). If you know how to solder you will always get a better connection. Soldering THG is also much easier that flexwatt all you need to do is trim away the black side of the heat tape with an xacto knife or razor blade and solder to the exposed copper strip no plastic to scrape or melt away. :D

Will the ring type connectors/terminators allow for two wires for parallel wiring. I figure they should fit and then crimp the ring terminator on. I am planning on ordering 2 wire connection sets and 4 connection sets without the wire. I planned to use in cord for power and the second one for spare wired to connect each of the 6 pieces of heat tape.

I soldered mine working fine. At full power(no thermostat) I found the THG IS 25f higher.

The only problem with the rivets I can see is the quality of the revet. Soldering is fine too as long as you can do it well. I personally would try 'old' school rivets and roves but then again I have a case sitting in the shed. The only thing to consider is Canadian law, if you are running a business out of your home it may be far cheaper to just buy UTH (like ultratherms) than use heat tape. To comply with wiring in commercial space you need an electrician to wire everything. Failure is very serious (no insurance coverage and criminal negligence causing, damage, injury, or death, carries jail time) Just in case that is a consideration. I would suggest as the new heat tape runs hotter than safe temps (over 100ºF) a failsafe be added.

This is residential space. No business. We have an electrician in the family to check over my wiring as well. I am guessing the alligator clip (old flexwatt) connectors are also not within "legal" either in commercial space.

I will be adding a fail safe as well. I think I will try these new connections. I was just thinking solder may be best. I haven't soldered in a long time though. From what I remember it was too difficult. I just want a good strong connection. I think the rivets will be good.

No the old ones are not either. It is just something to keep in mind. You can do all the work if the electrician inspects it. That makes it legal.


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Makes sense. I am going to see how the new connections work and go from there. I hope I can use regular pliers to crush the rivets.

Are standard pliers ok for crimping? Should I use linesman pliers?

If you have experience soldering then I would suggest soldering. You simply can't beat a good solder joint which is basically a weld. Make sure you do it right and give each connection a good tug to test it when you are done-

http://www.reptilebasics.com/solder-heat-tape

It has been. A while since I have soldered. I may practice a little to see how I do and go from there. I ordered the connections anyway so I will see if I like the rivets.

Rivets depend on the type the cheap ones, 'pop' rivets use a special gun and leave a big nubby bit behind. Traditional rivets a 'peaning' hammer and hard plate can be used. They generally make a harder joint and are very firm when set are properly done are completely smooth. The roves and rivets are usually copper and should make an excellent joint. Jim if you wanted R&Rs PM me I have some in storage. The other revet methods is using solid revet this is hardest to do well it is basically a pin pushed through and mushroomed.

pop riveter
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-MR33C-...ords=pop+revet

Rivets and roves
http://www.nomadboatbuilding.com/ima...v-rove-web.jpg

Solid Revets
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...90/Rivet01.jpg

I just ordered the thg kit. I figured I would give that a try because so far lots people seem to like it. I was just going to use linesman pliers because I really don't want to invest in a crping tool. If I am not satisfied with the supplied rivets I am going to solder. I will just practice on some spare wire to get used to it again. I haven't soldered in 10 years. I only did a little back the too in school. I am sure it won't be too hard to pick up again.

Thanks for the offer on the rivets but I think I will probably end up soldering. I don't like the alligator clip idea. I think the rivet method may be pretty good. Just have to wait now for the order to come in. I will definitely post a build log. I will include my choice there and what led to the decision. I don't mind soldering and if I had the iron ready I probably wouldn't have even ordered any connection kits.

I have to say I had excellent service with Exclusive Snakes/Epic Exotics. I complete pleasure to deal with. For my fellow Canadians, don't hesitate to purchase from them. I can't wait for everything to arrive. (Only complaint is that some links don't work on their site. Now I a. Using my iphone cause my computer just died so maybe it is just me. )

I think you will really like the rivets, it is a nice solid connection, and sandwiched in between the laminate, the contact area is terrific.

For parallel wiring, your best bet is probably the soldering.

Robin is great I have ordered from her before.

I was just looking at the FAQ on RB they show an eyelet punch, I guess that is what they are calling a 'rivet' You can buy them super cheap at most fabric stores the last one I had was only a few dollars (8 I think Fabricville maybe it is a scrapbooking thing or fabric craft), not a very good system. I'll be interested in what you think at the moment I am more skeptical.

http://nicolemdesign.blogspot.ca/200...-tutorial.html

:weirdface

I got some of the thg heat tape and rivet connectors. my plan was to put the rivets in and then solder around them to give it extra strength. but after crimping them with linemans pliers the hold seemed plenty strong enough so i just left em as is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dillan2020

I got some of the thg heat tape and rivet connectors. my plan was to put the rivets in and then solder around them to give it extra strength. but after crimping them with linemans pliers the hold seemed plenty strong enough so i just left em as is.

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Did you parallel wire? If so could you fit two wires in each ring type connector? I do t think they will be big enough.

I didn't no. i use back heat so just one strip down the back no need to parallel. i think you could easily fit 2 wires together in a ring connector before crimping. but instead of fitting 2 wires into the ring connector you could just splice into the wire up a little further if you wanted to. so you could have a short section of wire conected to the ring for the heat tape. then use another just straight crimp connector and conect your 2 wires to that.

I wonder if you could have your two wires with ring connectors on them and rivet them to the heat tape with them facing away from each other?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tangell88

I wonder if you could have your two wires with ring connectors on them and rivet them to the heat tape with them facing away from each other?

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Personally that would make me nervous because chances are they could be moved and cause and arc. If I think about it wire nutting the two wires together and having a third short lead to the ring connector or both wires directly crimped to the ring connector make the most sense.

I decided to go and purchase the soldering iron (45 watt) at "The Source" which is what Radio Shac used to be in Canada. I also picked up 60/40 rosin core solder as recommended by RBI.

I think soldering is the safest route. I think I just wasted a small amount of cash on the eyelets but at least I have them if I ever want to try it. I have less doubts it is a good choice if you are hooking up just one piece of heat tape. Based on recommendations from RBI and Kitedemon I think soldering is best choice for parallel. I hate asking for so many people's opinions when my gut is usually right. I just haven't soldered in so long I thought about taking the easy way out. In the end that is usually not the best choice.

Thanks so much everyone and threads like these are good for the next guy wondering about connection options.

I wonder if you could not run two wires into a single ring eye then fasten that to the tape. It is a thought, I think, I would have to see it and poke it some to be certain. I suspect the ring could be soldered or riveted or the eyelet system RB suggests more thinking out loud than making a solid suggestion.

When I get the THG eyelet system in I will play with it a bit. I think that the ring connector that accepts the bare wire should hold two wires twisted together. If it does it may be a good option for those uncomfortable with soldering. To me soldering will bring piece of mind. Everything comes in Friday so I will look at it then. I won't be starting the build for a couple weeks because I in between jobs and have to do this in small financial stages. Tubs are next and then melamine.

The one great feature of the eyelet (rivet) system, is the properly crimped wire eyelet and ring connector will not easily be remove from the heat tape unlike those alligator clips. I never liked the look of that system. Not that the heat tape is moving much but it leaves a lot to be desired as far as piece of mind. I think the eyelet system will actually prove out to be a great system in the next couple years of use in the real world. It always takes time to find unforeseen faults. On the whole it looks great if you were to wire each peice to a cord and even plug thin to a single surge bar. I just hate cords. The more hidden the happier I am.

It will be interesting to see for sure. The clips are a pain no question. I wonder if soldering the eyelet to the tape would make a better connection or not.?? I am meaning to order a foot or two too mess with but am waiting to need something else.


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Heat tape came in! A day early too!

I really like the THG connection system. I don't think it will work great for parallel wiring. As suspected two wires into the ring type connector will be a little too think to get a good crimp IMO. I am no expert by any means but or connecting one piece of heat tape directly it is a great connection choice (especially for those who haven't soldered before).

I going to brush up on my soldering skills though. I think soldering is the best connection choice.

In a side note I reay like the feel of this heat tape. It feels like it is well protected from wear. It also doesn't hold the curl of the role. I impressed so far. Can't wait to actually hook it up!

Ordered in 26 feet of THG 4" for a 12 shelf 36 tub hatchling rack I am building for a customer. Always solder my connections so will see how easy this is to solder compared to flexwatt. Each shelf will have its own cord that way if a shelf is not being used it can remain unplugged. Will be soldering the tape this weekend.

That makes sense to have each shelf seperate. I was going to but for just a six tub rack for adults I didn't think it was necessary.

As far as soldering I thin it will be easier because the plastic is apparently easy to remove from the one side. I will see soon enough. Just have to wait for tubs to be back in stock.