Typical newbie questions here

I've always wanted a ball python and last year I finally bought a juvenile one for me and my youngest son to share. Right now he's in an aquarium with aspen substrate and an under the tank heating pad. I also keep a ceramic bowl of water for him, but it's not big enough for him to swim or bathe in. I'll soon be moving him up to a larger tank as he's already outgrown this one.

The snake is unusually friendly and for a long time was a fantastic eater. Started off with pinkies, then white mice, and moved up to small/medium rats. We fed him once every 7-10 days. However the last time he's eaten was back around October/November. I know that it's normal for them to go through long periods without eating, and he seems healthy, but how long until I should be concerned? I've tried offering him a few meals in the last several months and he's not interested at all.

One other thing I've noticed is he seems to have wrinkled skin covering his eyes. I've read that is an indication of not enough humidity and the eyes aren't shedding properly. Unfortunately I don't have a humidity or temperature gauge in the tank, but I'm getting one soon. What's a good way to increase the humidity without increasing the smell?

Increasing the smell? My brb always has pretty high humidity and I don't have a smell. What do you mean?

Most of the time I've been around pets in cages that required heat and humidity I've noticed they tend to smell musty and rank. Especially when they poo, as the heat and humidity can make the smell go from "Do you smell poo?" to "OMG WHAT DIED?!?!?!"

If this is your snake's second winter then it's probably reached sexual maturity and a fasting period is commonplace. As long as you don't notice very loose sagging skin you're probably ok. If you do not have a thermostat controlling your under tank heater then do NOT use it. It can get very hot and injure your animal. Just use heat lamps or purchase a thermostat. Included is a link to a very well priced model. You may have had stuck eye caps from your last shed. Being left on for one shed is generally no cause for alarm. Just make sure they come off with the next shed. Switching from aspen to cypress substrate can help that out. Also putting some damp sphagnum moss in your hides can help that. If you have a mesh screen top on your aquarium then cover most of it with aluminum foil, damp towels, or some Glad "Press n' Seal". These little tricks help bump up humidity. Get some temperature and humidity guages! Accurite makes a very reliable product that monitors heat in 2 places and humidity as well. Here's a link to the product website. But the product is available at Wal-Mart for like 12$. Go get one. Monitoring temps and humidity are very important for the health of your animal.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S

http://www.acurite.com/weather/humid...red-probe.html

Im not a expert or anything as i still ask alot of questions one here. but my humidity stays at 60% most of the time "higher when he's in shed" but ive never noticed any bad smells coming from his tank. just spot clean his cage and remove any feces or urates and replace the substrate where it is dirty and you shouldnt have any smells ;)

This probably is his second winter, so that sounds about right. His skin is a little wrinkled but not bad. And although not as active as he used to be, he's still active. I'll try out the tips on covering the tank top as well as pick up a temp/humidity gauge next time I'm out and about.

I've noticed the wrinkled skin on his eyes for more than one shed. Time to take him to a vet?

Btw, when I say he's unusually friendly he truly is. He has no problem being handled by anyone, even during pre-shedding, active shedding, and post shedding. In fact one time I told my gf's son he could feed him and he took off to do it before I could tell him to put the mouse and snake in the separate feeding tank. Sure enough when I got back there the snake was wrapped around the mouse, but also tangled around some of the decorative plants which was preventing him from suffocating the mouse. I picked him up and gently untangled him from around the plants, even though he still had the mouse wrapped up as well. He calmly waited until I had the last plant free, then he proceeded to finish off the mouse. Not a nip!

There are a few things you can try to remove the eye caps before going to the vet. Try using the search feature of BP.net. I can't comfortably recommend any because I have never had that problem. And just enjoy your snake being social for as long as it lasts. Snakes are like people, they can come with any kind of attitude. Some are tame as puppies and some will bite anything any chance they get. You hit a winner.

but i have two b/p one is eating well the other is not eating at all got them two days apart from petco
i have them in a 30x12x12 tank , the temp is cool side 75 warm side about 90 i have a 6inchx 10 inchx2.5 for water
there is a under the tank heater pad on the warm side why is one eating but the other is not

Stress from keeping them together. Separate them and start a new topic if you have questions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hatsu

but i have two b/p one is eating well the other is not eating at all got them two days apart from petco
i have them in a 30x12x12 tank , the temp is cool side 75 warm side about 90 i have a 6inchx 10 inchx2.5 for water
there is a under the tank heater pad on the warm side why is one eating but the other is not

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hatsu, you need to buy a second terrarium and a second heating device for it. Housing 2 ball pythons together is not recommended unless they are breeding. Your under tank heater needs to be regulated by a thermostat. If you don't have one your pad can fail and heat up to over 130 degrees and injure or kill your animal. Also 75 degrees is a little too cool. Your cool side shouldn't dip below 78. Hot side in the low 90s. With some ingenuity your 20 gallon long terrarium can be divided into two cages with the heat sources in the middle. One of your snakes is not eating probably because of the stress of keeping them together. Just because they do it at the store doesn't make it a good idea. There are all kinds of risks to the animals' health that are not worth it. Please read some care guides on ball pythons.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...s%29-Caresheet

Here is my 20 gallon long divided into two terrariums with a thermostat regulated UTH providing heat to both.

http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/...ps870e79f1.jpg

This IS the time of year they shut down feeding. I expected things to return to normal but am told probably 2 more months of no eating is possible. You are going to want to try some new methods with your tank. I use a 40 GAL. breeder tank, but have taken several steps to improve it. I have wrapped all the sides and part of the bottom with an insulated thermofoil type product called Reflectix Insulation. The front view is the only area not covered. As mentioned above damp towels under foil or in my case Reflectix, will keep humidity up.

I can keep high 70's to 80 when needed just by using towels against the screen top covered by the thermofoil with another dry towel over it. I have humidity gauges on both sides in the tank, and thermometers on both sides. Accurite is also what I use. I larger water bowel will also increase humidity.

You MUST have a thermostat. Don't feel stupid for not having one. I bought my son a Royal last May, thought I had the research all done, came here and found out I had TONS left to learn and the Thermostat was the 1st thing I was told to buy. Just get one (T-stat) and you will solve so many problems and benefit the snake.

The tank should not smell. If it does it needs cleaning ASAP. Waste should be removed as soon as you smell or see it. Spot clean your aspen, but at 30 days re-lay a fresh bed of it after a total tank disinfecting clean up.

It's late a I probably left some things out, but don't sweat the eating as this is typical behavior for this time of year.

For other details, a guy named Aaron (Serpent Merchant) has laid out an excellent set of useful tips for tank setup and thermostat setup.

If you are looking at new housing I'd say skip the glass tank and check into some of the caging threads here.

Use the search feature and you can find a lot of info. Good luck.

Thanks, all, for the tips and suggestions! I'm thinking I might build my own tank for him, since a lot of times I look at the ones in the pet stores and online and then see the price and think "I can build that for way less!"

If I get out tonight, I'll pick up a humidity/temp indicator and also some Eco-Earth substrate. I'll also try covering the top of the cage.

Also wanted to add that my snake doesn't mind being handled right after feeding. Definitely a cool snake!

You're welcome! Doing at home builds can be frustrating but equally rewarding. Post pics of whatever you come up with. Even though your snake appears calm after eating, a general advisement is to leave them alone for 24 hours after eating to ensure the meal is "settled" well in the stomach. Just a tip