Newbie here temp?

My basket area is 96° to 98° day and night. My cold side is 83° to 85° Is that too hot?I have 100w white light for day and 100w red light for night.

Yes, that is too hot. I keep my warm side around 87 and my cool side around 78. Many care sheets show 90 on warm and 80 on cool.

Are you only using lights for heating? Do you have any belly heat?

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...s%29-Caresheet

No UTH just lights

Your temps are high. Lamps can be placed on a dimmer to adjust the output and power. This can be a fair bit of work however they will need to be adjusted when the room temp changes. For the moment you could raise them up some to drop your temps.

Many choose a heat source that can be regulated with a thermostat like a uth or even a ceramic heat emitter that would fit into your lamp housing.


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Ok I'm getting heat down. Now got work on the humidity.

I tried this, before i got my herpstat and was on a dimmer for my uth, i got bored one day and used the dimmer with my infrared bulb, bulb burned out after 3 days, i dont think these bulbs were meant for that

Yeh those hot side temps are way to high, my BP wont go near the hot side if its anything above 92, only on the rare occasion when he is in shed or after a meal. Hes usually on the cold side hide which i keep between 80-84

Temps come first. Temps regulate all body functions and make quick (days) differences humidity can be quite low for quite a while with no adverse effects. Humidity is not a huge issue unless it is very high in an enclosure that is poorly ventilated


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On a touch of a side note you may find ir lights more disrupting than dark blue lighting is. Infrared hunting snakes (ie pythons) are 'tuned' to that end of the spectrum.


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Kitedemon

So your opposed to using these type of bulbs? http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/31/duju9avu.jpg

Yes. Those are the kind you should use.

Many do use them but they are infrared and pythons among others are tuned to infrared. I have found they seem to change behavior under red lighting where they don't seem to under blue.


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No offense kitedemon, but i have been using these bulbs (i switch between 75w In the summer and 100w in the winter) for close to 2 years now and have had no issues

Your the first person i ever seen on this forum that has said they are "bad" for
BP's.

I did not say bad, I said they react to them. Royal pythons hunt by heat their eyes are balanced into the red end of the spectrum. They unlike many other reptiles have very poor blue end response so it jus makes sense that the low end it just going to be ambient temp light to them rather than an optical light as well. I suggest blue as there is less impact on their senses given a choice as the goal is heat why use red? The centre of the bell curve mapping royal python vision is orange red the centre of our is yellow/green. Red is roughly the same location visually as a tungsten (regular lights) for us. This only holds for snakes with heat pits non heat hunters have strong blue receptors and UV likely plays an important role in their optical senses.

http://images108.fotki.com/v1623/pho...cvision-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

http://jeb.biologists.org/content/202/14/1931.full.pdf

all bulbs also have IR 'light' so regardless they see all of them. I personally believe that blue deep blue has a lower impact. I know they adjust to lights fine even white lights I remember a snake in the class room of my jr high school he was under fluorescent lights for 18 years that were never turned off, he is still alive and big and healthy. (now the teacher is retired and he is in his home now.) Ideal? no, certainly. All I am saying is if there is a choice between don't produce as much visual light and produce an extreme amount of visual light why not choose less?

If we take three light bulbs all 60w a deep red one a regular one and a deep blue one we see the red and blue as darker but the out put of light is the same we do not see all colours equally. Look at 'night view' cameras the illuminator is quite bright but we barely see it. This is my point heat hunting snakes' optics are tuned to see heat, red is just a blip along the spectrum. The response to red is extreme I have friends whom own a zoo they use IR guns with the laser taped over as the retics always strike at the red laser. The demonstrations they do, they have a blue laser pointer and the retics never strike at it.

Any heat source is a light to royals. Blue or red lights emit heat that is the point. I would suggest to reduce the amount of light by choosing a colour their eyes don't respond to as much.

Wow you went all out (im
Not being sarcastic) I guess this topic hasn't been discussed much. From my understanding its always been
Suggested that balls cant see red or are not bothered by red light as opposed to those white or blue bulbs you usually see.

I know they become adjusted to red but as to not seeing it? There is just no logic behind that. You and I both know the simple view is they will adjust and it isn't a problem either way. I personally feel that continuing a myth is counter productive . I am not suggesting changing but if you are starting in may make more sense.

Actually i'am interested in this and would actually like to try something new. I have a 29g setup, so there is 9g of height in my enclosure as opposed to the regular 20g tank, so a heating lamp is a must in my setup, as the uth alone is not enough to keep my ambient temps where they are supposed to be. The infrared bulb that i showed you is on 24hrs a day. I play with the position and angle i place it over the tank to manipulate the temps i want. Which bulb would you recommend as a "stay on all day" heating source?

frankie what wattage do you currently use?

http://www.amazon.com/OUTDOOR-FLOODL.../dp/B000STG64C

http://www.amazon.com/Incandescent-F.../dp/B00029HYXA

To be honest I think are better options. I used to use high heat high power heating options like these. I then had a change in my economic situation and started to find places to save some money on the power bill. I decided the floods had to go.

heat rises, humid air rises, and an open top aquarium is not efficient. At the time spending the cash for a plastic enclosure was not a good option so I designed a 'plug' if you will. The tanks I had were all taller than the 'floor' area so I turned it on the side. It provided a lower height and cut heating costs a fair bit (humidity issues with it) and I also believe it makes a safer system as well. I love them I have a few plastic enclosures (vision, sly, had an AP) a custom built one. I think the glass side turned tank is the equal of them and the cost is a fraction. The new hinges a year on are holding up perfectly and will not use metal ones again. I would suggest if you are thinking of a change that a 'lucylid' might be a better change than bulb option. Personal opinion.

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/brow...mageuser=15408

There are some missing images from the diy I made my picture sharing site is having problems. They can be found here.

The DIY...
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...arium-Solution

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

frankie what wattage do you currently use?

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When its winter i use the 100w infrared, and in the summer when i sometimes dont even need to turn the light on for regular ambient temps i switch to the 75w. Now im looking at the BR38 blue bulb link u put up. Im willing to give it a try, so you are saying that using this blue bulb all day to keep ambient temps is better, and less disturbing to the BP than using the infrared bulb im using now?

Like i said i will give it a try, that most i have to loose is 20 bucks. BUT, i would like to ask other forums members here their opinions on this? Specifically those who have actually done the switch, and/or are currently using the blue bulb all day for ambient temps...

They will have adjusted to the red but that is the basic premise they should have no reaction to the blue over the general curiosity of something new. I use blue lights 24/7 in the winter but not a flood, I no longer need it. I run low power LEDs inside the enclosure to hold a low of 78ºF (room temps are below 68º most of the time) More efficient enclosures mean less power.