Herpstat 2 Question

So I just got my new racks in today and my Herpstat 2 will be in today. I ordered a CB-70 rack and a sweaterbox rack. I also need a thermostat for my incubator I'm building. Can I plug my racks into a powerstrip and then into my herpstat? The racks both use 4" belly heat but they have different amounts of feet of heat tape (because of the difference in size of the racks). Can I do this or do I need to run them independently? Here's the racks:

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5049/39216780.jpg

They need to be run on their own thermostat.

I'd suggest something like the herpstat intro (or intro +) for an incubator.

The racks do not need to be run independantly. There are 2 temp sensors on the Herpstat 2 and that is what it is meant to be used for. Plug the racks directly into the Herpstat 2 and then plug the Herpstat 2 into a nice surge protector. Ensure you are monitoring the proper sensor on the proper output control of the Herpstat 2.

I'd get a Herpstat 1 for the incubator.

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Originally Posted by coreydelong

The racks do not need to be run independantly. There are 2 temp sensors on the Herpstat 2 and that is what it is meant to be used for. Plug the racks directly into the Herpstat 2 and then plug the Herpstat 2 into a nice surge protector. Ensure you are monitoring the proper sensor on the proper output control of the Herpstat 2.

I'd get a Herpstat 1 for the incubator.

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That is what independently means... 1 rack per thermostat/thermostat channel.

The OP is asking if they can run 3 different heat sources on 2 thermostat channels. And the answer is no you cannot do that safely.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

That is what independently means... 1 rack per thermostat/thermostat channel.

The OP is asking if they can run 3 different heat sources on 2 thermostat channels. And the answer is no you cannot do that safely.

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Yes...that's what I was asking. I can't afford another herpstat just yet (especially after just spending a small fortune on new racks and a herpstat 2). Perhaps I can ask for it as a gift for my birthday this April. I know I want to run the incubator on the Herpstat and I'll run one rack on the other output. I'll just use my hydrofarm on the other rack until I can get another Herpstat.

I have both the cb70 and the sweaterbox racks for reptile basic. they are both ran using different temp probes. yes the herpstat 2 has 2 probes and 2 slots for the powercord coming off of the flexwatt. and will work for your setup. you will just need to get another thermostat when you build your incubator.

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Originally Posted by don15681

I have both the cb70 and the sweaterbox racks for reptile basic. they are both ran using different temp probes. yes the herpstat 2 has 2 probes and 2 slots for the powercord coming off of the flexwatt. and will work for your setup. you will just need to get another thermostat when you build your incubator.

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I'm actually building my incubator this weekend, so I'll run it off the herpstat. I'm also going to run the sweaterbox off the herpstat. The CB-70 rack I'll run off a hydrafarm that I've got laying around until I can purchase another.

I have a new question. What's the difference between the "dimming" and "pulse" setting and which is better. I mean...I understand that pulse is an on/off type setting and dimming simply controls the amount of power to the heat tape...but what is better to use? Right now I have it set on dimming. And for my incubator, which setting is best for that?

I'm not an expert on incubating or anything but I think that dimming would be the better option in order to keep a steady temp as opposed to having it fluctuate from the drop needed to initiate the pulse and then putting it up all the way to the needed tempature which would only last so long until it drops again. Unless you can set what temp is needed to initiate the pulse. Either way could probably work. But I would use dimming. Again I'm no expert on the herp stats or incubating! I'm just giving my opinion.

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Originally Posted by BHReptiles

I have a new question. What's the difference between the "dimming" and "pulse" setting and which is better. I mean...I understand that pulse is an on/off type setting and dimming simply controls the amount of power to the heat tape...but what is better to use? Right now I have it set on dimming. And for my incubator, which setting is best for that?

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You would be talking about the proportional and non proportional mode. Proportional mode( dimming ) is a much more accurate way to power your equipment as it fluctuates the power going to the equipment keeping it at a nice steady temp.Usually in the tenths of 1 degree. while non proportional uses an on/off affect.Usually +/-2 or more degrees. The herpstats come with a setting that controls the " swing " of the temperature. I would definitely say that in a situation as delicate as an incubator, I would use the proportional setting without a doubt!

Dimming and pulse are both proportional thermostat modes on Herpstats. The herpstat thermostats have a separate mode for on/off functionality.

The difference between dimming proportional mode and pulse proportional mode is as follows:

Dimming Proportional mode works like an automated lamp dimmer. It varies the amount of power being output to the heat source to regulate temperature.

Pulse Proportional Mode works similarly to an on/off style thermostat but without the swing that is associated with on/off style thermostats. Basically a pulse proportional thermostat fakes what the dimming proportional mode does. It does this by turning the power on and off extremely rapidly (like 60 or more times per second) This is called pulse width modulation. by varying how much time the thermostat outputs power and how much time the thermostat does not it can control the temperature of the heat source very accurately (although the dimming mode is slightly more accurate). This is very different to what an of/off style thermostat does, and shouldn't be thought of as the same thing (because it isn't)

An on/off style thermostat (or a herpstat in on/off mode) outputs 100% power until the thermostat achieves the desired temperature then shuts power completely off until the temperature drops below the swing temperature (usually - 2 degrees from the set point)

So what mode to choose?

dimming proportional is almost always the one to go with. It is the most accurate and is better for the heat source.

Pulse proportional mode should be used when there are grounding problems. Some metal racks hum/buzz when they have heat tape touching them that is being controlled in dimming mode. (Basically you should only use this mode if dimming mode is causing problems)

on/off mode should be used with heat sources that need a constant stream of power, or where accuracy isn't important. (like oil filled heaters)

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

You people don't know what you are talking about lol.

Dimming and pulse are both proportional thermostat modes on Herpstats. The herpstat thermostats have a separate mode for on/off functionality.

The difference between dimming proportional mode and pulse proportional mode is as follows:

Dimming Proportional mode works like an automated lamp dimmer. It varies the amount of power being output to the heat source to regulate temperature.

Pulse Proportional Mode works similarly to an on/off style thermostat but without the swing that is associated with on/off style thermostats. Basically a pulse proportional thermostat fakes what the dimming proportional mode does. It does this by turning the power on and off extremely rapidly (like 60 or more times per second) This is called pulse width modulation. by varying how much time the thermostat outputs power and how much time the thermostat does not it can control the temperature of the heat source very accurately (although the dimming mode is slightly more accurate). This is very different to what an of/off style thermostat does, and shouldn't be thought of as the same thing (because it isn't)

An on/off style thermostat (or a herpstat in on/off mode) outputs 100% power until the thermostat achieves the desired temperature then shuts power completely off until the temperature drops below the swing temperature (usually - 2 degrees from the set point)

So what mode to choose?

dimming proportional is almost always the one to go with. It is the most accurate and is better for the heat source.

Pulse proportional mode should be used when there are grounding problems. Some metal racks hum/buzz when they have heat tape touching them that is being controlled in dimming mode. (Basically you should only use this mode if dimming mode is causing problems)

on/off mode should be used with heat sources that need a constant stream of power, or where accuracy isn't important. (like oil filled heaters)

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I knew roughtly what the differences between the two were (enough to know they were both proportional). I just wasn't sure which was better out of the two. I'll leave it on dimming and when I plug in my incubator, I'll set that one as dimming to. Thanks for your help.

Sorry I misunderstood the question. It was late and I thought you were asking about the difference between proportional and non proportional. From now on I just will keep quiet and not answer anymore questions.

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Originally Posted by norwegn113

You would be talking about the proportional and non proportional mode. Proportional mode( dimming ) is a much more accurate way to power your equipment as it fluctuates the power going to the equipment keeping it at a nice steady temp.Usually in the tenths of 1 degree. while non proportional uses an on/off affect.Usually +/-2 or more degrees. The herpstats come with a setting that controls the " swing " of the temperature. I would definitely say that in a situation as delicate as an incubator, I would use the proportional setting without a doubt!

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This is absolutely not correct.

Pulse proportional using fast pulses of power to keep stable power. Dimming proportional flutters the amount of power, the volume if you will. They in effect are exactly the same, dimming is a touch more 'smooth' but sometimes hums with a metal rack.

The more technical explanation,
Dimming vs pulse proportional depends on the thermostat. In most cases dimming is going to be smoother. On our pulse proportional mode we actually get a full 0-100% range of pulse lengths and the maximum pulse length is around a second long. Since the max length is short it gives quicker response time and temperature is still smoothly regulated. Energy consumption is basically the same. The only other advantage of pulse proportional mode is that it turns the power on early in ac sine wave while the voltage is low where most dimming styles will turn power on in various times during the ac sine wave. While typically this is not an issue occasionally I hear of someone’s favorite AM radio picking up the pulses and incandescent lights can have a longer life with the pulse mode. It is no different than a light dimmer and a incandescent light in operation. A relay based thermostat like the ranco or Johnson controls will also turn on/off in various parts of the ac sinewave. In fact so does your standard wall switch. I still suggest dimming for everything except for metal racks that exhibit an audible hum in dimming mode.

Dion Brewington
Owner, Spyder Robotics LLC
http://www.spyderrobotics.com