Over-exaggeration or extremely factual... BP eating habits?

Hello everyone,

I have been browsing this website a lot researching, and I'm having difficulty deciding which snake to get as my first. I have been thoroughly researching ball pythons and corns and I am leaning more towards the BP. However I have two concerns which cause pause in getting a BP as I keep reading these two statements about balls all the time:
1.) balls are picky, finicky eaters
2.) balls are very temperature and humidity sensitive

The temperature aspect is not such a big concern as I have a leopard gecko that needs a temperature gradient and I already use temperature probes. However the eating aspect is very discouraging. Is this usually the rule and not exception? If you had to put going off feed on a percentage scale what would it be? And if going off feed is so common should I not worry initially if I get a ball? Are balls really unforgiving in minor husbandry mistakes compared to corns?

I want a calm, mostly non-nippy (especially as a baby), can hang with on the couch type of snake. I would also prefer a juvenile as opposed to a baby that is well-started. I also want to feed f/t, more economical than buying live and I'm not to keen on feeding live if I can avoid it.

I personally believe the picky eating depends on the individual snake. I have multiple BP's that never miss a meal and have an excellent feeding response. I also find keeping their humidity and temperatures at the correct levels isn't much work either. Most homes are quite humid anyway. I got a BP as my first snake and it was a great decision :)

Corn snakes aren't as picky as ball pythons, but they are much more active when you handle them. I'm not sure what your other options are, but a corn snake is another good starter snake. Ball pythons tend to be more calm, and might be a better snake if you just want to sit down and watch tv while holding them.

I wouldn't worry about a ball python being a picky eater--sometimes they just aren't hungry or want a smaller meal. They definitely will eat for you again before you should be worried about them dieing, unless there is something seriously wrong with the snake. But I think that's just about as rare as the snake being seriously ill in another way.

As far as temperature and humidity, once you set up the enclosure the right way you don't really have to worry about it. Small adjustments might be needed season to season though.

Ball pythons are more prone to curling up in a ball than striking at you. If you can handle the snake before getting it, you'll know if its prone to strike or not. Most aren't, so you're probably fine.

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I want a calm, mostly non-nippy (especially as a baby), can hang with on the couch type of snake.

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you just basically described a ball python right there. I've had my BP for close to 2 years now and got him while he was borderline baby/juvenile (89g) And he was already well started. And i can tell as far as temperent goes, i would say the chances of my BP striking or biting me is probably the same as winning the POWERBALL lottery. Hes calm as can be, and once he is out of his enclosure i can have him on my lap for hours.

Now the bad. My BP was a rat/mouse guzzler when i first got him but once he reached 800, its gone down hill. Its fustrating, but as long as you have a digital scale and his weight is ok, then youll be alright. But not to lie to you even knowing his weight is find, it still a little fustrating seen your guy not eat for a month or 2 or even 3.

but what AaronAshley said is true, all BP's are different, because before the BP i have now, i have owned 2 normals, and they both ate anything i put infront of them and never missed a meal, not even in winter.

I think you would do better with a ball python. I have quite a few and the only food refusals I see are seasonally from my breeder sized males. On a whole, there isn't much food refusal going on, virtually none with the baby snakes.

99% of eating problems are caused by husbandry problems. Some snakes are more forgiving than others. It will take a little time to discover what your snake is comfortable with.

My ball python eats like a champ. If I dont feed her 17% of her body weight at least I have to feed her 2 times a week basically. The only time she refuses food is during her shed.

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not to rain on anyone's parade...but asking about corns vs. ball pythons on a BALL PYTHON forum is just asking for biased opinions.

I have 10 snakes, 6 corn snakes and 4 ball pythons all ranging in age from babies to adults.

I started off with a corn snake and it was a great first snake, for me. Corn snakes don't require you to deal with humidity. Just offer them a temperature gradient that's not too warm and usually they are good to go. My corn snakes are my BEST eaters. I only have one who eats live and she's the exception. Most corn snakes eat frozen after one or live live meals after they hatch. Corn snakes are also really docile and don't bite. None of my corn snakes have bitten me but I have had a ball python nip me once. Corn snakes are also smaller and can live in a small tank (20 gal L as an adult) or a small tub (28 qt tub) and be quite content their whole lives. I had a 6g hatchling (who's now 35g) in a 20 gal L and she's never missed a meal for me. The only real downside to a corn snake is that they are often very fast and fidget. They won't sit in your lap while you watch tv. They are constantly on the move. But if you are actually holding them, there's no reason they can't watch TV with you (even my most wiggly corn snake will watch TV while I hold her).

As for ball pythons, their husbandry is a little more complicated. Humidity is a huge factor for them, especially when they shed. You have to keep a good 60-70% humidity during their shed cycles or else they won't shed completely. there are several ways to accomplish this and finding your own method is key. With a corn snake, I don't pay any attention to humidity and I never have an issue with shedding. As far as hides/decor, ball pythons are a little more picky because sometimes they will choose a favorite hide over the need to thermoregulate. An easy fix: have multiple hides that are the same! Size of enclosure can be a turn off to buyers to. Most want to start their ball python off in a tank that's big enough for them as an adult (30 gal tank or 41qt tub). However, ball pythons like small places and are much more likely to eat for you if their enclosures are cramped and small. Most people start with a small tank or tub and move up. If you want to start off big, just offer an abundance of hides/clutter to make them feel secure. To address the feeding issue, some ball pythons can be really picky. Some don't like rats, some only eat mice, some only eat live, and some will eat whatever you give them. If you want a well-started ball python, shop around and see if you can find one that's already eating frozen/thawed rats. Then you don't have to worry about trying to switch them onto a prey item that's more favorable to you. Ball pythons are also highly sensitive to stress, so you have to be in tune to whether or not your ball python is stressed. Unlike corn snakes, they TELL you when they aren't happy. That's makes it simple so you can figure out what to change to make them happy. Ball pythons will move a lot around their cage and stop eating. Corns pretty much continue on about their day. Ball pythons, however, are much more calm than corn snakes. They are the kind of snake to take a nap with (not that I recommend this...but I know someone who has fallen asleep with their BP beside them and woke up three hours later to the BP still beside them). They will not slither off in a hurry and are really laid back and chill. If you just want to hang out with your snake, a ball python is a great choice. Ball pythons are also larger, even as babies. A newborn corn snake can be 4-5g and a newborn ball python can be 30-70g. That's a big difference! They are also more bulky and easier to hold. I also find that ball pythons are very reluctant to bite. They would much prefer to ball up then strike...unless your hand smells like rats (the bite I mentioned earlier was because of this...).

So really, the decision is up to you. Both ball pythons and corn snakes are great beginner snakes. They both have their pros and cons (which I've hopefully hit most of them) and each one will suit a different lifestyle. Take a step back and think about which snake will fit YOU better. In the end, you're going to be the one taking care of it. You want to weigh your options and choose the snake that's best for you. You can always choose both if you have the time and money for two snakes! I would recommend both snakes to beginners.

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Originally Posted by Ssnakey87

Hello everyone,

I have been browsing this website a lot researching, and I'm having difficulty deciding which snake to get as my first. I have been thoroughly researching ball pythons and corns and I am leaning more towards the BP. However I have two concerns which cause pause in getting a BP as I keep reading these two statements about balls all the time:
1.) balls are picky, finicky eaters
2.) balls are very temperature and humidity sensitive

The temperature aspect is not such a big concern as I have a leopard gecko that needs a temperature gradient and I already use temperature probes. However the eating aspect is very discouraging. Is this usually the rule and not exception? If you had to put going off feed on a percentage scale what would it be? And if going off feed is so common should I not worry initially if I get a ball? Are balls really unforgiving in minor husbandry mistakes compared to corns?

I want a calm, mostly non-nippy (especially as a baby), can hang with on the couch type of snake. I would also prefer a juvenile as opposed to a baby that is well-started. I also want to feed f/t, more economical than buying live and I'm not to keen on feeding live if I can avoid it.

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I wouldn't say they are either picky, finicky eaters, or difficult to keep. The key is having the right set up, and doing so isn't that difficult. I had a ball python when I was a child, and he thrived. He never skipped a meal, and it was not difficult to keep the right temperature and humidity. I have 4 ball pythons now, and so far so good. I got their set ups prepared before their arrival so I could tweak it as necessary to get temperatures and humidity stabilized, and since then I have had no issues. I am keeping them in plastic bins, and raising or lowering humidity is a simple matter of opening or closing off holes in the side of the bin. Temperature is achieved through UTH and a space heater to heat the room to appropriate ambient temperatures. So far the 2 established snakes (acquired the 2nd two this weekend) are eating great. They take f/t no problem. Only skipped meal was when one snake was shedding. He wanted to eat, but wouldn't finish until his shed was over. Once complete, he took his meal like normal, no questions asked. I am by no means an expert, and there are picky, more difficult snakes out there, but I wouldn't call it a rule.

Not sure if I missed this, but is size an object?

I can tell you right now I've made a few mistakes with my husbandry and my ball python still ate like a champ. he's never skipped a meal. I guess it depends on the snake. I will warn you that ball pythons are like pet rocks. They don't move around much and too much handling can stress them out. Don't get me wrong, I love my snake, but if you want a snake that you can display and handle a lot, I'd go with a corn.

Eating habits are entirely dependent on the individual snake. I have rock solid eaters, some that go on and off, and one truly picky eater...all provided with the correct temps, humidity, etc... I've had one go off feed for just over 11 months at 1,100-1,200 grams, and lost less than 100 grams in that time. She was seen by my vet, I tried all the tricks in the book to get her feeding....she just wouldn't touch a thing in that time. That's a more extreme case, but it does happen.

Corn snakes, on the other hand, which I have owned several of, rarely miss a meal(missing several in a row is a sign of a problem, unlike with ball pythons). They can be nippy when they're young, but can't break skin. They're usually past that at around 6 months or so, and a well handled corn snake, more often than not, will not be flighty at all as they mature. And although there is tons of info out there on keeping either to avoid this---> corn snakes are a bit more forgiving of husbandry errors.

Either make a good starter snake...as do California Kings, Eastern Kings, Gopher snakes, rosy boas, sand boas, and more. I've recently added a woma python, and they are another great, fairly simple to keep snake. They tend to have a more acute feeding response, and will get a little larger than the others I've mentioned, but handle like a charm. You'll likely be best off keeping what interests you most...as that is what will make things easiest for you.

@toritheballpython: full adult size of a ball python is not an issue, but I would not venture into a larger sized snake. I do like their girth however.

Oh also, I think the whole "balls are finicky eaters" came from a LONG TIME AGO when they were importing a lot. WC imports have eating problems in captivity (I hear). But a nice CBB from a breeder shouldn't trouble you too much as long as you have good husbandry.

Wild caught balls, which were by far the norm back in the 80's, did have a rep as picky eaters and were sometimes hard to start, especially if they were recent imports. They also often came in with active parasitical issues, I even saw an import shipment of balls that had ticks visible on several, (parasites and RI's with WC animals...fairly common back then... contributed to that "myth" of balls being picky feeders IMHO). Once disease/parasite free, healthy & acclimated, I had very few that refused to eat, so I think the species kinda got a bad rap which seems to have persisted (undeservedly so IMHO). I haven't had any of those issues with any of my CB BP's....in fact, they are very active aggressive feeders, and shed perfectly; all five of them.

Any snake is sensitive to temperature being ectothermic, and all usually thrive when provided temps replicating their natural habitat, but in my experience I don't believe that balls are any more, or any less sensitive to dysfunctional husbandry than any other species, (in my experience they are actually quite adaptive and hardy). I've always considered CB Balls as one of the least problematic species to keep; small size, dependable eaters and mellow attitude...doesn't get much better than that. I had far more issues with various kingsnakes and milksnakes than I ever had with a ball.

Humidity can and is an issue in some climates, but that can be readily improved with a "wet" hide filled with moistened moss, vermiculite or even potting soil. My ambient humidity is generally between 50-60%, and I haven't had any shedding issues at all, (and haven't needed a moist hide). Keeping a moistened hide box can provide proper humidity quite easily, just remember to also provide a "dry" hide so they can self-regulate as needed. They also should have hot, and also cooler basking areas so they can self-thermoregulate as needed.

In my opinion ball pythons are among the top choices as a first snake, but like any snake they simply need correct conditions to thrive, (which is easily achieved with BP's). Of course, asking whether a snake is eating prior to purchase is basically "Snake Keeping 101", and should be the first question asked of a seller.

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Originally Posted by Ssnakey87

edited for answering direct questions

I have two concerns which cause pause in getting a BP as I keep reading these two statements about balls all the time:
1.) balls are picky, finicky eaters
2.) balls are very temperature and humidity sensitive
3.) However the eating aspect is very discouraging. Is this usually the rule and not exception?
4.) If you had to put going off feed on a percentage scale what would it be?
5.) And if going off feed is so common should I not worry initially if I get a ball?
6.) Are balls really unforgiving in minor husbandry mistakes compared to corns?

I want a calm, mostly non-nippy (especially as a baby), can hang with on the couch type of snake. I would also prefer a juvenile as opposed to a baby that is well-started. I also want to feed f/t, more economical than buying live and I'm not to keen on feeding live if I can avoid it.

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1) This statement is an exaggeration. Ball pythons can seasonally go off feed, but it's not because it's being "picky" about what kind of food it wants. While some individuals are picky about types of feeders, my personal experience is that it is not typical and they are more often fantastic eaters than not.

2) This statement is an exaggeration, particularly when comparing ball pythons to herps that really are quite temperature sensitive. There is a huge difference between temperature sensitivity and cold tolerance, these are not snakes that tolerate true cold unlike some colubrids or other python species. Keep the winter air temps above 75* for best results, but really there's a good window for optimum temperatures. These guys do have bad sheds with low humidity, and consistent low humidity can lead to respiratory problems for them.

3) I've had more problems with my western hognose snakes than my ball pythons. Both make excellent pets, which would not be the case if feeding was an actual issue that prevented them from thriving in captivity

4) Every ball python I've had has refused a feeder. Then again, every snake I've had has refused a feeder, with the exception of ONE of my two youngest carpet pythons. It's not a big deal, most refusals or feeding strikes are short lived.

5) Again, ball pythons make excellent pets, and that wouldn't be the case if they never ate and just starved themselves to death.

6) Don't compare them to corn snakes. Corn snakes are freaking bulletproof. They'll overeat until they explode and their wild range includes true cold climates and dry conditions. Is steel soft compared to diamonds? Heck yes. But I still wouldn't call steel soft, it's still an excellent building and armoring material, and I wouldn't punch it with a closed fist.

If you want a lap snake that eats F/T rats, ball pythons are an excellent choice. There is nothing in their husbandry that isn't easily provided. The issue is that the people who don't take the time to read the optimum husbandry choices tend to have health problems when long-term errors are made. It really is as simple as getting some temperatures and humidity levels squared away. A water dish, substrate choice, heating element, and t-stat take care of most of that pretty easily.

I got my first Ball Python August 2011. Since then we have only had a few times that she has refused to eat. Usually we just wait until the next scheduled feeding and things are back to normal. She has been a total joy to own and I love her so much that I got another Ball Python this past September! I haven't had problems keeping the proper heat in their tanks and the only real prior experience I had was keeping my Leopard Geckos. Both of the BP's we got were babies and we went right to the breeders house to get them. We've had a great support system. Both BP's enjoy hanging out while we are sitting on the couch with us and are truly a joy to own. Using large water bowls and humid hides I have only had one shed that was less than ideal on either of my BP's and that was back when we first started.

I had friends with a corn snake when I was younger and kept thinking I wanted to have one. I did a lot of research about a year ago and thought I wanted an adult/young adult vs a baby. I finally found one (May 2012) that wasn't really being taken very good care of and was around 120 grams and reported to be 2 years old. She was gorgeous and seemed ok with handling, though not quite as content to just sit there like the BP's. She had been underfed and kept in improper temps and enclosure. After a few feedings she started getting a little more aggressive. She has struck at my husband a few times. She acts like she might strike at me, but she doesn't. But when I get her out she is hard to handle as she is either practically squeezing my hand off or going all over the place. Additionally if I get near ANYTHING while she is out she will wrap around it and refuse to budge. She has more than doubled in size and is quite long. She will frequently anchor herself on her cage stand or a chair or something else and I have to patiently wait until I can unwind her to put her back. Her nickname is the garbage disposal as she will eat anything and generally no matter what I feed her she still acts hungry. She is gorgeous and fun to watch climb the branches in her enclosure and burrow in the aspen in her enclosure. She is not nearly as fun to have just out of her enclosure hanging around though. I think corns may be a little easier on the temp/humidity front just because they don't need temps as warm.

I'm sure all snakes differ, but if I had to go back I would probably just get my baby BP that I got this past fall instead of the corn snake. I like my corn and will keep her forever, but having her AND my new BP means I'm kind of at my limit and can't get the additional leopard gecko I was hoping to get. I would really suggest trying to meet several of each snake if possible to get a better idea of their general temperments. Also, keep in mind, an adult snake may change once you get it into YOUR environment after buying/adopting it. My corn snake sure did!