Stupid incubator question/comment

Finished, finally! I got my DIY incubator up and running today and need some opinions. It is a small 6 bottle wine cooler converted into a bator. Has a built in fan and glass door. I taped flex watt to the bottom and it holds 2 6 qt sterilite tubs. In the tubs I used moist sand (I looked in every local hardware store and all the perlite/vermiculite has miracle grow in it) with light diffuser on top and an accurite thermometer/hydrometer inside. I have a hydrofarm thermostat plugged in and armed at 89 degrees. Ok now to the point. At first I had the T-stat probe outside the egg tub and the egg box got up to about 96 degrees. Next I put the probe inside the egg box and so far this is what I have - T stat reading 89-89.6, humidity inside the egg box 99%, and temp inside the egg box 90 degrees. SO...... would you lower the T-stat temp, where do most of you keep your T-stat probe, is there any reason why sand would cause an issue, is 99% humidity okay? Any other comments?

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Originally Posted by Ladybugzcrunch

In the tubs I used moist sand (I looked in every local hardware store and all the perlite/vermiculite has miracle grow in it)

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This is the one Lowes carries and it is good to use.

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Originally Posted by Ladybugzcrunch

SO...... would you lower the T-stat temp, where do most of you keep your T-stat probe, is there any reason why sand would cause an issue, is 99% humidity okay? Any other comments?

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I have my probe in the middle of my bator. You want all the humidity you can get without it raining in the box.

Also, the Hydrofarm thermostat is an on/off style which can lead to much greater temperature swings and is generally not recommended for use on an incubator. A proportional thermostat, like the Herpstat is really ideal for incubators. I know you already have the Hydrofarm, but it's just something to keep in mind if you experience temp swings. . .

^---- X2, sorry I didn't even notice you tstat choice. I am using a VE200

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Originally Posted by Steve-J

Also, the Hydrofarm thermostat is an on/off style which can lead to much greater temperature swings and is generally not recommended for use on an incubator. A proportional thermostat, like the Herpstat is really ideal for incubators. I know you already have the Hydrofarm, but it's just something to keep in mind if you experience temp swings. . .

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Is this a good one for Incubating? I currently use a Hydrofarm for my racks.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/07/byjuqa5a.jpg

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Originally Posted by Robert093090

Is this a good one for Incubating? I currently use a Hydrofarm for my racks.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/07/byjuqa5a.jpg

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I wouldn't personally use that on an incubator, (or even on an enclosure) That zoomed reptitemp is reputed to be fairly unreliable overall.
I would look at the Herpstat Intro if you're on a budget.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

This is the one Lowes carries and it is good to use.




I have my probe in the middle of my bator. You want all the humidity you can get without it raining in the box.

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I looked at lowes. They (as well as the other hardware stores) have winterized and will be restocking in the spring. WHat do you mean by this
"You want all the humidity you can get without it raining in the box."

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Originally Posted by Steve-J

Also, the Hydrofarm thermostat is an on/off style which can lead to much greater temperature swings and is generally not recommended for use on an incubator. A proportional thermostat, like the Herpstat is really ideal for incubators. I know you already have the Hydrofarm, but it's just something to keep in mind if you experience temp swings. . .

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I know the proportional T- stats are better, I have a herpstat on my racks but another one just was not in the budget. This will be my first year with possible eggs so if all goes well a better T-stat and bigger incubator will be in the plans for next year.

As close to 100% as you an get without water dripping on the eggs

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

As close to 100% as you an get without water dripping on the eggs

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I thought about tenting a piece of plastic wrap in the egg tub with tooth picks but decided to just slope the egg boxes slightly instead. I think the condensate will just flow down the top of the tub.

what is the sand for? perlite/vermiculite was used as it holds moisture really well. if you're soaking it with so much water that you need a light diffuser, then the purpose it was used for isn't there anymore. I also use light grids. the first year I used perlite with the grids. now after some thought, I now zip-tie pvc tubing to the light grid. the pvc is about 1 inch in diameter holding the grid up out of the water. the only thing that the perlite did for me was when I take the eggs out to check on them. the perlite prevented splashing of the water (moving the egg tub). without the perlite, I don't have a problem with the eggs getting wet. and if you do splash, and the eggs do get wet. they will be ok. it's the eggs being constantly wet that causes problems.

thermostats. this is the most important piece of equipment you have for this hobby. why go cheap? if you can't afford about a 130 dollar thermostat, then you should get a hamster instead. haven't you read about all the fires? and those breeders were using good equipment! most likely why spyder robotics (manufactures the herpstat) came out with their new line of thermostats that has more safety features to help prevent this. heat tape, heat cable ect.. was used for many years to help keep water pipes from freezing in the winter time. Trailers with the air space under them has a big problem with this. many trailers burnt to the ground cause of heat tape. if you don't buy a quality thermostat for your reptiles, buy it for the added safety for your family. one thing I've learned in life, you pretty much get what you pay for.

and the 500r, the one I had was junk, I wouldn't even resell it at a reptile show. I threw it away. hope that answers you question.

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Originally Posted by don15681

what is the sand for? perlite/vermiculite was used as it holds moisture really well. if you're soaking it with so much water that you need a light diffuser, then the purpose it was used for isn't there anymore. I also use light grids. the first year I used perlite with the grids. now after some thought, I now zip-tie pvc tubing to the light grid. the pvc is about 1 inch in diameter holding the grid up out of the water. the only thing that the perlite did for me was when I take the eggs out to check on them. the perlite prevented splashing of the water (moving the egg tub). without the perlite, I don't have a problem with the eggs getting wet. and if you do splash, and the eggs do get wet. they will be ok. it's the eggs being constantly wet that causes problems.

thermostats. this is the most important piece of equipment you have for this hobby. why go cheap? if you can't afford about a 130 dollar thermostat, then you should get a hamster instead. haven't you read about all the fires? and those breeders were using good equipment! most likely why spyder robotics (manufactures the herpstat) came out with their new line of thermostats that has more safety features to help prevent this. heat tape, heat cable ect.. was used for many years to help keep water pipes from freezing in the winter time. Trailers with the air space under them has a big problem with this. many trailers burnt to the ground cause of heat tape. if you don't buy a quality thermostat for your reptiles, buy it for the added safety for your family. one thing I've learned in life, you pretty much get what you pay for.

and the 500r, the one I had was junk, I wouldn't even resell it at a reptile show. I threw it away. hope that answers you question.

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You should chill out. Not every project requires perfection on the first go! and who are you to say I should have a hamster instead of a snake? I used the sand to prevent splashing. light diffuser is to keep the eggs off of the wet sand. I have a herpstat on my racks just do not want to buy another one yet for several reasons. BTW herpstats fail as well. One of mine did and burnt several of may snakes. Now I have a back up for the herpstat cause not everything is perfect.

Have to say I would never trust my eggs to a hydrofarm.

Herpstat all the way.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

I have a though perhaps it would work many use a substrate less system eggs on light diffuser over a water bath. It might be cheaper to use this type with one or two digital aquarium heaters with a water circulator pump. The condensation is easy add a 5º slope to the egg container and if water drops form it will go to the side.

I would put the hydrofarm on the rack and use the herpstat on the inc.
Hydrofarms average a 5-6 temperature swing with some turning on and off with an 8 degree swing.
I incubated eggs my first season with a repti-temp500r and still have nightmares, lol.

The fertilizer is not the way to go. Lowes has fine Vermiculite without miracle grow as POP pointed out. I found coarse Vermiculite and Perlite at a local garden center. One part each with equal water volume added was nearly perfect. 2 cups of each and 6 cups of water was a good level for my bins with light diffusers sitting on top of 1/2" pvc for support.

I used a wine cooler as well. It had a light installed which I kept wired in. I used a Herpstsat for $129 shipped. I also put a nice 12vDC fan in mine at the top wired to a rheostat and ac/dc converter for $15. Two feet of 11" Flexwatt fit perfect. I put a simple 6 outlet cord where the compressor was. That goes to a surge protector and a battery back-up that will run it for a few hours in the event of a power interruption.

I put a simple little remore temp/humidity sensor in there as well. It reads within 1F of the Herpstat placed one shelf lower and gives me the internal cooler humidity. Tubs will obviously be different as you can see from the condensation. This little rig has been running 24/7 since I built it about 2 months ago..... she is ready!!

It's a nice little set-up if I don't say myself :D

Herpstat 1 with remote sensor. Herpstat sensor under top shelf, remote sensor under second shelf:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...-44-02_840.jpg

Inside with fan/light on. I could fit one more tub under fan if I had to:
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...-24-51_251.jpg
Back with power strip, AC/DC convertor and rheostat (on left). Fan is set to about 50% and moves a lot of air even at half speed. The chiller actually already had the rheostat box- I just replaced the rheosat for the proper rated rheostat for my fan.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...-26-18_436.jpg

I may do that. Thanks.. No one has said where they put the themostat probe though?

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Originally Posted by snakesRkewl

I would put the hydrofarm on the rack and use the herpstat on the inc.
Hydrofarms average a 5-6 temperature swing with some turning on and off with an 8 degree swing.
I incubated eggs my first season with a repti-temp500r and still have nightmares, lol.

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Originally Posted by Ladybugzcrunch

I may do that. Thanks.. No one has said where they put the themostat probe though?

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I have it posted right above.

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Originally Posted by Ladybugzcrunch

You should chill out. Not every project requires perfection on the first go! and who are you to say I should have a hamster instead of a snake? I used the sand to prevent splashing. light diffuser is to keep the eggs off of the wet sand. I have a herpstat on my racks just do not want to buy another one yet for several reasons. BTW herpstats fail as well. One of mine did and burnt several of may snakes. Now I have a back up for the herpstat cause not everything is perfect.

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Not every project requires perfection on the first go!

really! let me tell you about my first clutch

I had perfect temps the whole way threw incubation, tested my incubator for weeks until I had my incubator zero in to where I wanted it. before the eggs came.
used a 6 qt tub with perlite and had it very wet also using a light grid. use a lid on top with no holes.
even with this setup I still had humidity problems. at the end of incubation, the top of the eggs touch the bottom of the eggs. but they all were still alive. bad thing is some had one eye some had no eyes and none of them would eat on their own. I watch each one die but I wouldn't give up on them. what fix my humidity problem? a piece of glad press n seal. if I knew a little bit more this might of been prevented.

temp spikes durning incubation can also cause problems. you don't want to be asking how to put down a hatchling cause it's serverly kinked but it's still breathing. it sucks!
this can happen even under perfect conditions, so why use garbage equipment and up the odds?

I apologize for the hamster remark, it was a bad way of trying to get a point across.

let me try and reword it, I've been doing this for awhile and this isn't meant to be smart." Not every project requires perfection on the first go!" why not try for perfection, if it's a money thing why not just wait until it can be done right?

I would also like to hear your input on the failure of the herpstat. never had a herpstat fail, but I had a helix max out on a back heated rack. the snakes wasn't burn from it.

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Originally Posted by Ladybugzcrunch

I may do that. Thanks.. No one has said where they put the themostat probe though?

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:confusd::confusd::confusd: I know I did but Okay :confusd::confusd::confusd:

My probe is about six inches from the fan, there is a high turnover rate so with probe and fan at the bottom blowing across (in my setup) it works great. I have seen people recommend against putting the probe in the egg box (Possibility of driving the heat too hard and overheating), but there are also people who put it in the egg box and still have good results. If there isn't time for you to test different methods then you will have to go with whichever one is giving you the most reliable results.
I would agree with Jerry when he said to put the Hydrofarm on your rack to free up a Herpstat for your incubator, you would be happy that you did in the long run.
I noticed that you have the heat attached to the bottom of the incubator, this might make it harder to get the uniform temp throughout. Anything on the bottom shelf will be right over the heat and it may not distribute as evenly to the top of the incubator. Most of the designs I see have the heat running up and down the side/s or at the back. Generally this would allow the heat to be more evenly distributed by the circulation fan.
Hope this helps.

Okay thanks. I was not sure if I should put the probe inside or outside of the egg box. The wine cooler is VERY small and if I put the heat tape on the sides it would touch the tubs. I put it on the bottom because it was the only place I could put it where it would not touch either of the tubs. Imagine 2 6qt tubs with about 4 inches of height to spare and this is the area of the inside of the incubator I built.

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Originally Posted by Ladybugzcrunch

In an egg box OR not in an egg box?

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not, middle of bator

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ladybugzcrunch

Finished, finally! I got my DIY incubator up and running today and need some opinions. It is a small 6 bottle wine cooler converted into a bator. Has a built in fan and glass door. I taped flex watt to the bottom and it holds 2 6 qt sterilite tubs. In the tubs I used moist sand (I looked in every local hardware store and all the perlite/vermiculite has miracle grow in it) with light diffuser on top and an accurite thermometer/hydrometer inside. I have a hydrofarm thermostat plugged in and armed at 89 degrees. Ok now to the point. At first I had the T-stat probe outside the egg tub and the egg box got up to about 96 degrees. Next I put the probe inside the egg box and so far this is what I have - T stat reading 89-89.6, humidity inside the egg box 99%, and temp inside the egg box 90 degrees. SO...... would you lower the T-stat temp, where do most of you keep your T-stat probe, is there any reason why sand would cause an issue, is 99% humidity okay? Any other comments?

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put the probe in the middle of the incubator. don't go by the temp that's on the thermostat. is your egg boxes right above the flex watt? is it that you ran the incubator and the flex watt heated the egg boxes up cause they are close and right above the flex watt? only way I see the boxes getting hotter than the inside of the incubator. you might not need to move your flex watt. can you put something on the shelf that will help sheild the direct heat from the flex watt? also you need to let the incubator get up to temps and then stable out, before taking your readings. good thermostats and I don't want to get into that again, but they have Soft startup, which slowly applies power during initial warmups. you can also do this manually. If you put something thin that will help sheild the direct heat and allow the surrounding heat, heat your egg boxes. and you ran your incubator long enough to get stable temps, you should be close to be where you want to be. if you have a temp gun, check your temps with that. the rest should be setting the thermostat to get the correct temps in the incubator. don't go by the temp on the thermostat.

also be careful in the future on the fan inside the incubator. in my smaller incubator which is about 4 foot high. my fan is 120 v ac and not a dc fan and it makes heat by getting hot in my incubator. so much on a hot summer day, the flex watt won't even come on and the fan will put my temps higher than what I want them at. my thermostat a herpstat nd was high/low level alarms on it. so I have to turn the speed of my fan down and open the door for a few seconds. just something else you might have to watch out for with certain fans. good luck, chilled don