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Boas and hides
Quick question about boas. I have read that boas don't really need hides like balls do.
I just brought home my first boa home a couple days ago and have the enclosure set up the same as my balls, one in the cool side and the other on the warm side above the UTH.
Do you guys use hides for your boas?
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I think most offer a hide until they get quite large.
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That is what I was thinking, putting a boa in a hide at an adult age may prove difficult. My girl is fairly young just being hatched in April of 2011. Is the 10 - 15 percent rule in terms of feeding apply to boas as well?
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Hog Island boa: has hides, uses them 50/50
Hypo Colombian: used hides when she was smaller, doesn't have any now
Jungle Colombian: never used hides when he was smaller, has two in his 4' viv that he uses occasionally since I had them laying around and he's 6+ feet
Albino Colombian: hardly used them when she was smaller, doesn't have any now
Argentine male and female pair: has hides, never uses them
If its a baby boa I'd put some hides in there, it may or may not use them.
Edit: I used the 10-15% feeding rule for my boas when they were smaller without issues, but now I mostly eyeball. You can do both, just don't give too big of meals since they digest a bit slower than balls do. Don't feed more frequently than 7 days.
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Boas should be fed a meal that doesn't leave a noticeable lump. Young boas should be fed every 7-10 days.
I give mine hides. My male uses his sometimes. My female prefers to burrow in the substrate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDooLittle
Boas should be fed a meal that doesn't leave a noticeable lump. Young boas should be fed every 7-10 days.
I give mine hides. My male uses his sometimes. My female prefers to burrow in the substrate.
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http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/04/sahaqese.jpg
This is her, do you think rat pups would be too small?
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^ Does she have a heat mat inside the enclosure? Wondering what the dark black/blue square is that she's on. Sorry to be off topic.
Hard to tell what feeder size she needs from the pic.
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^ Does she have a heat mat inside the enclosure? Wondering what the dark black/blue square is that she's on. Sorry to be off topic.
Hard to tell what feeder size she needs from the pic.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daybreaker
^ Does she have a heat mat inside the enclosure? Wondering what the dark black/blue square is that she's on. Sorry to be off topic.
Hard to tell what feeder size she needs from the pic.
- - - Updated - - -
^ Does she have a heat mat inside the enclosure? Wondering what the dark black/blue square is that she's on. Sorry to be off topic.
Hard to tell what feeder size she needs from the pic.
She does, the UTH is actually on the other side, the picture taken was we're the hide is on the cool side. Currently she is in a glass enclosure on top of a stand. I plan on moving her into a T20 or 25 from animal plastics in a couple of months.
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Just to confirm the UTH is not physically inside the enclosure, it is adhered outside on the bottom regulated with a thermostat.
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My boy is an April 11 baby, he eats rat pups. Last weigh in, was November and he was 198 grams.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDooLittle
My boy is an April 11 baby, he eats rat pups. Last weigh in, was November and he was 198 grams.
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Good to know, I didn't weigh her when she came home (probably should have), I will weigh her in a couple weeks after she has had a chance to settle in. She did eat a rat pup the first day home so that was good.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDooLittle
My boy is an April 11 baby, he eats rat pups. Last weigh in, was November and he was 198 grams.
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You guys make me feel like my feb 2011 sunglow girl is a monster! Last I weighed her (about a month and a half ago) she was 2.8 pounds. That is in the neighborhood of 1200-1300 grams! I only feed her every 10-14 days!
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by missriss2012
You guys make me feel like my feb 2011 sunglow girl is a monster! Last I weighed her (about a month and a half ago) she was 2.8 pounds. That is in the neighborhood of 1200-1300 grams! I only feed her every 10-14 days!
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I was thinking the same thing! Our July '11 girl is probably in the 1200 gram range and eating S/M rats.
But I think DrDooLittle ment '12 if I remember correctly.
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Slow grow them. Small meals once a week will do. They're not ball pythons, they don't get plump. If they do they're FAT!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&H Exotic Morphs
I was thinking the same thing! Our July '11 girl is probably in the 1200 gram range and eating S/M rats.
But I think DrDooLittle ment '12 if I remember correctly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDooLittle
My boy is an April 11 baby, he eats rat pups. Last weigh in, was November and he was 198 grams.
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Ah yes, he is a 12, just got him this year. It was late, apparently, lol. Sorry!
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daybreaker
Edit: I used the 10-15% feeding rule for my boas when they were smaller without issues, but now I mostly eyeball. You can do both, just don't give too big of meals since they digest a bit slower than balls do. Don't feed more frequently than 7 days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDooLittle
Boas should be fed a meal that doesn't leave a noticeable lump. Young boas should be fed every 7-10 days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWinWizard
Slow grow them. Small meals once a week will do. They're not ball pythons, they don't get plump. If they do they're FAT!!
All of the above!! This is excellent advice. Judging by the size of your boa, rat pups should be alright for quite awhile.
Also, I always offer hides even for my older boas. Most use them, but some just lay on top of them. Either way, they seem to like them so I make sure there's at least one hide box in each enclosure.
One other thing, your boa was not "hatched," she was "born." Boas are live-bearers which mean they do not lay eggs like pythons do - they give birth to live young. They have a "litter" and the babies are "born" as "neonates" and not as "hatchlings." :gj:
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Half of my boa's use hides the other half don't. I offer them to all of my boa's. The hides seem to keep them happy.
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I use hides for my boa but he sure loves to climb..He is an (most likely, not positive on age) April 2012 hatchling, weighing in at 198 grams and pounding rat pups.
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I agree. Its really hard to tell by that picture what size feeder.
[removed] Saw the correction. I was starting to think that my guy was HUGE. lol
Hides - not anymore. We did have two in there until he was about 6 months. He'd probably still use one but he likes to pick and choose where he curls up now. I'd need three hides to make this guy happy and there just isn't room in his enclosure for that.
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Isis - February 2011 baby currently 752g 40in and she eats a 150-200g rat once every 2 weeks without leaving any lump at all which is 20-25% her body weight she refuses anything smaller or larger than that range BCA - Bolivian
Osiris -April 2011 baby currently 642g 36in and he eats 150-200g rat once every 2 weeks leaves a barely there lump that you cant even see after a few hours BCA - Bolivian
Nephyths - March 2011 baby currently 776g 36in she eats 150-200g rat once every 2 weeks no lump at all Waiting on papers for conformation of origin
these weights taken 11-15-12
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Lady Kat
Isis - February 2011 baby currently 752g 40in and she eats a 150-200g rat once every 2 weeks without leaving any lump at all which is 20-25% her body weight she refuses anything smaller or larger than that range BCA - Bolivian
Osiris -April 2011 baby currently 642g 36in and he eats 150-200g rat once every 2 weeks leaves a barely there lump that you cant even see after a few hours BCA - Bolivian
Nephyths - March 2011 baby currently 776g 36in she eats 150-200g rat once every 2 weeks no lump at all Waiting on papers for conformation of origin
these weights taken 11-15-12
my fingers apperently didnt work with my brain they are all 2012s not 2011s
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I'm starting to think she has been underfed....
Here is the dates that I got from the feeding card. (for the most part the size of prey is not mentioned)
Born 04-30-2011
Feed Dates:
06/14/11
06/21/11
06/28/11
07/05/11
07/13/11
07/30/11
08/06/11
09/04/11
09/16/11
10/02/11
10/16/11
10/30/11
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03/25/12
04/22/12
06/03/12
06/16/12
07/01/12
08/06/12
10/5/12 - rat pup
12/22/12 - rat pup
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01/01/13 - rat pup
I was able to weigh her today and she came in at 420 grams. Please let me know your thoughts.
Thank you!
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin82531
I'm starting to think she has been underfed....
Here is the dates that I got from the feeding card. (for the most part the size of prey is not mentioned)
Born 04-30-2011
Feed Dates:
06/14/11
06/21/11
06/28/11
07/05/11
07/13/11
07/30/11
08/06/11
09/04/11
09/16/11
10/02/11
10/16/11
10/30/11
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03/25/12
04/22/12
06/03/12
06/16/12
07/01/12
08/06/12
10/5/12 - rat pup
12/22/12 - rat pup
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01/01/13 - rat pup
I was able to weigh her today and she came in at 420 grams. Please let me know your thoughts.
Thank you!
I would say she has definitely been underfed regardless of size she was fed just the frequency alone screams underfed I would offer her one appropriate size meal every 7 days, I would say small rats would be good then get a new weight on her every 4 weeks and up the food if necessary. It took me 4 months after I got her to get my underweight baby starting to actually pack on the weight.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Lady Kat
I would say she has definitely been underfed regardless of size she was fed just the frequency alone screams underfed I would offer her one appropriate size meal every 7 days, I would say small rats would be good then get a new weight on her every 4 weeks and up the food if necessary. It took me 4 months after I got her to get my underweight baby starting to actually pack on the weight.
Thank you for your help. I do have one more question. From my understanding boa's digest much slower than balls, she just had a rat pup 1/1/2013, should I wait seven days from then to feed a small rat or would I be ok feeding one today. I just don't want to push it.
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin82531
Thank you for your help. I do have one more question. From my understanding boa's digest much slower than balls, she just had a rat pup 1/1/2013, should I wait seven days from then to feed a small rat or would I be ok feeding one today. I just don't want to push it.
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I personally never feed my boas less than seven days: I'd wait till 1/8 at least.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daybreaker
I personally never feed my boas less than seven days: I'd wait till 1/8 at least.
Ok, thank you for your advice. I will wait until then before feeding.
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I gave my girl hides: she sat on them. :rofl: So I took them out. Now if she feels like hiding she burrows in her aspen.
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In regards to the hides discussion my 7' BCI has and uses his 2'x1'x10" hide box quite heavily ever since I got it for him. When he was younger he would always use the hides as a spot to chill on, but never went under it. Now during the day you won't find him out of the hide unless there are rats in the room, or it's a particularly cool day he may move to directly under his RHP... During the night though he is all over his cage :-)
My Adult BCI is eating a Medium - Large - Jumbo rat in random frequency. I don't keep him on a set schedule. When he was young I fed him weekly, but every now and then would skip a week due to a shed. Right now he averages a meal every 10-18 days. When he eats a larger meal I give him around 18 days, when he gets a medium rat (which is pretty much a Large rat by a lot of standards) he gets another one after 10 or so days. Really just watch his attitude, girth, and fecal spots to figure out when it's a good time for him to feed. Last thing you want is an Obese snake. . . The retics on the other hand in contrast, anything under 1 year old feeds every 4 days on a meal that is about 20% their body weight. They put on serious growth in their first year. Unlike boas which are typically more drawn out growth with a slower metabolism.
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I wouldn't say she was too underfed. Most people only feed their boas every 7-10 days, I would not go any sooner than 7 days. That picture isn't that great, but she doesn't really look too thin to me. Looks like there was some 7 day feedings, and some two week ones, not ideal, but not terrible. Boas should not be round like ball pythons. They should have that square/rectangular shape. And yes, their metabolism is slower than balls.
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDooLittle
I wouldn't say she was too underfed. Most people only feed their boas every 7-10 days, I would not go any sooner than 7 days. That picture isn't that great, but she doesn't really look too thin to me. Looks like there was some 7 day feedings, and some two week ones, not ideal, but not terrible. Boas should not be round like ball pythons. They should have that square/rectangular shape. And yes, their metabolism is slower than balls.
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Exactly. She does not appear underfed at all. Why do you think she has been? Just because of the dates on her feed card? That isn't all-telling. The previous owner could have missed recording a feed-date here and there or skipped on purpose due to shed. And it appears that she's been fed every 10-14 days or so. Many many breeders start their neonates on a 10 day schedule from day one. My babies are going at 7, 10, or 14 days right now. Boas' metabolism is much slower than most snakes - don't feed more frequently then at 7 days. Feeding a few days later is better than sooner.
Seriously, then best way to tell if your boa is getting enough to eat is to simply moniter her body condition. She should look nice and lean and slender. As Reptileexperts said, the very last thing you want is a fat snake. She will be happier and healthier if she's fed less often and kept nice and lean and fit. :gj:
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She looks fine to me. Boas do not gain weight as quickly as balls either.
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She could be a little on the small side but weight to length looks good. A few proper sized and spaced feeds and you'll see some obvious growth. Sometimes you just get stuck with too small feeds for awhile. This happened with my guy when he grew out of his rat pups after 2 weeks and we had 8 more to still feed him.
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She is perfectly fine. Don't worry if she's small. Not only do boas have slower metabolisms, they often have widely varying growth rates. One boa at 1 year old might be 700gm and another might only be 450gm. She will hit her growth spurt soon enough. She appears to be in perfect condition. I would MUCH rather see a boa small and slender than big and fat. She will get big enough in no time. Just feed 1 appropriate sized prey every 7-10 days and she will do just fine!
And I still say a rat pup is fine for her for now. Just as feeding less often is better for these guys, so is feeding a slightly smaller prey item. Truly, it'll be ok!! :gj:
Note: don't know why that angry face is showing up in the heading of my post - sorry about that! I'm not angry, really! It's all good! :D:D:D:D
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Thanks for everyone's input puts mind at ease :)
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin82531
Thank you for your help. I do have one more question. From my understanding boa's digest much slower than balls, she just had a rat pup 1/1/2013, should I wait seven days from then to feed a small rat or would I be ok feeding one today. I just don't want to push it.
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I would wait the 7 days definitely and monitor her weight as soon as you get her close to or at 750-1000g back her feeding up to every ten days when she maintains her weight for at least 1st month then move her to every 14 days since she is 2 years old feeding her every 7 days is to boost her if you keep her on that schedule permanently it would be like power feeding her throughout her life shortening her life span to do it on a short term basis for her health is ok but not on a regular basis by the time she reaches 750-1000g she should be on smaller large rats
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Lady Kat
I would wait the 7 days definitely and monitor her weight as soon as you get her close to or at 750-1000g back her feeding up to every ten days when she maintains her weight for at least 1st month then move her to every 14 days since she is 2 years old feeding her every 7 days is to boost her if you keep her on that schedule permanently it would be like power feeding her throughout her life shortening her life span to do it on a short term basis for her health is ok but not on a regular basis by the time she reaches 750-1000g she should be on smaller large rats
This really isn't necessary. The snake is perfectly fine and has not been underfed. Feeding every 10 days now is fine. Boas grow slowly and at different rates. From what I can see from the pictures, this particular boa looks really good. She'll grow at her own rate and increase her size as she's meant to. Letting nature do its work and feeding appropriately from the get-go is the best thing we can do for her.
Edit: did I miss something? I thought this snake was approximately 1 year of age - not 2??? How old is she?
2nd Edit: I noted from her card that she is a June 2011 baby (approx). That would make her about 1 1/2 years old. She is small for her age, yes, but I still say she's perfectly fine. A 10 day schedule is best for her and will be for the next year or so. Remember, snakes don't operate on a time schedule in the wild. You'll get a feel for what's right for her as you go along - go with your gut as long as you don't feed too often. :gj:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evenstar
This really isn't necessary. The snake is perfectly fine and has not been underfed. Feeding every 10 days now is fine. Boas grow slowly and at different rates. From what I can see from the pictures, this particular boa looks really good. She'll grow at her own rate and increase her size as she's meant to. Letting nature do its work and feeding appropriately from the get-go is the best thing we can do for her.
Edit: did I miss something? I thought this snake was approximately 1 year of age - not 2??? How old is she?
2nd Edit: I noted from her card that she is a June 2011 baby (approx). That would make her about 1 1/2 years old. She is small for her age, yes, but I still say she's perfectly fine. A 10 day schedule is best for her and will be for the next year or so. Remember, snakes don't operate on a time schedule in the wild. You'll get a feel for what's right for her as you go along - go with your gut as long as you don't feed too often. :gj:
Would you still say rat pups or would a small rat be appropriate?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin82531
Would you still say rat pups or would a small rat be appropriate?
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Eyeball the rat, eyeball your snake, and as long as it won't leave a noticeable lump, you are good to go.
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evenstar
This really isn't necessary. The snake is perfectly fine and has not been underfed. Feeding every 10 days now is fine. Boas grow slowly and at different rates. From what I can see from the pictures, this particular boa looks really good. She'll grow at her own rate and increase her size as she's meant to. Letting nature do its work and feeding appropriately from the get-go is the best thing we can do for her.
Edit: did I miss something? I thought this snake was approximately 1 year of age - not 2??? How old is she?
2nd Edit: I noted from her card that she is a June 2011 baby (approx). That would make her about 1 1/2 years old. She is small for her age, yes, but I still say she's perfectly fine. A 10 day schedule is best for her and will be for the next year or so. Remember, snakes don't operate on a time schedule in the wild. You'll get a feel for what's right for her as you go along - go with your gut as long as you don't feed too often. :gj:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/image...quote_icon.png Originally Posted by martin82531 http://ball-pythons.net/forums/image...post-right.png
I'm starting to think she has been underfed....
Here is the dates that I got from the feeding card. (for the most part the size of prey is not mentioned)
Born 04-30-2011
That is why I thought she was underfed if she was just a year old 400ish is small but not a concern but at almost 2 years old I figured she is only about half the size she should be even on a small side. I agree she does look good but although she may be healthy she may have not grown to where she needs to be due to the decrease in food from the feeding schedule the previous owner / breeder went months without feeding her.
You are by far more experienced than I Evenstar and I assumed you had missed that she was almost 2 years old that is the only reason I made the recommendation I did
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin82531
Would you still say rat pups or would a small rat be appropriate?
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at 420 grams 10% is 42g and 15% is 63g this is the rule for BP however I have found that the girth is still about right for boas as they get older 20-25% their weight the girth is better but with her on the small side i would stick to small rats until she starts gaining
Rats: |
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Age
|
Weight
|
Length*
|
Equivalent
|
Rat Pinkies |
1-6 days |
3-8 grams |
1-2" |
Mouse Fuzzie |
Rat Fuzzies |
7-13 days |
9-20 grams |
2-2.5" |
Hopper or Weaned Mice |
Rat Pups |
2-3 weeks |
21-30 grams |
2.5-3.5" |
Large Mouse |
Weaned Rats |
3-4 weeks |
31-45 grams |
3.5-4.5" |
X-Large Mouse |
Small Rats |
4-6 weeks |
46-79 grams |
4.5-6" |
|
Medium Rats |
6-8 weeks |
80-149 grams |
6-8" |
|
Large Rats |
8-10 weeks |
150-265 grams |
8-9" |
1/2 lb Rabbit |
This is the chart I use to gauge size of the rats and small rats would put her right in the ideal range unless you notice a large lump which I don't expect you will until her girth is larger and you start dealing with medium and large rats that where the weight gaps are larger
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Re: Boas and hides
All four of my boas have hides. The Dumerils and Costa Rican BCI use them only when in shed and occassionally when digesting.
The Madagascar Ground Boa and Tarahumara BCI use them most of the time, and they are the two biggest of the group...
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin82531
Would you still say rat pups or would a small rat be appropriate?
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Yes, I think rat pups are appropriate. Smaller is better with boas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrDooLittle
Eyeball the rat, eyeball your snake, and as long as it won't leave a noticeable lump, you are good to go.
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With boas, you will do better if the prey size does not leave a noticable lump. I think a small rat would be too large for her. She will get big enough soon enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Lady Kat
That is why I thought she was underfed if she was just a year old 400ish is small but not a concern but at almost 2 years old I figured she is only about half the size she should be even on a small side. I agree she does look good but although she may be healthy she may have not grown to where she needs to be due to the decrease in food from the feeding schedule the previous owner / breeder went months without feeding her. [/COLOR]
You are by far more experienced than I Evenstar and I assumed you had missed that she was almost 2 years old that is the only reason I made the recommendation I did
No worries - I can understand why you thought what you thought. But be careful - boas do not need to be any certain size by any certain age so long as they are eating well, gaining at least a small bit of weight, shedding regularly, and have good body condition. There is no evidence that the previous owner went months without feeding this snake just because the "feeding chart" doesn't have those entries. Her body condition is too good to have gone months with no food at her age. Even if she DID go months with no food, that is all the more reason to keep her food items small!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Lady Kat
at [COLOR=#333333] 420 grams 10% is 42g and 15% is 63g this is the rule for BP however I have found that the girth is still about right for boas as they get older 20-25% their weight the girth is better but with her on the small side i would stick to small rats until she starts gaining.
This is the chart I use to gauge size of the rats and small rats would put her right in the ideal range unless you notice a large lump which I don't expect you will until her girth is larger and you start dealing with medium and large rats that where the weight gaps are larger
Those percentages are ok for ball pythons and most other pythons - NOT for boas. Please understand, boas are NOT balls. They have slower metabolisms, more sensitive digestion, different body types. Percentages used for pythons should not be applied to boas. Here are a few quotes from Gus Rentro of Rio Bravo Reptiles. Gus, along with Vin Russo who wrote, "The Complete Boa Constrictor" (which I highly recommend any new boa owner buy and read completely), is one of the foremost authorities on the captive raising and rearing of Boa Constrictors in the US.
http://www.riobravoreptiles.com/care_raisingboas.htm
"How often do I feed my boas?"
Inexplicably, there still exists a lot of confusion about how much and how often snakes should be fed. Feed a growing red-tail as often as it will take food but wait until all signs of the previous feeding have gone. In other words, don't feed it if it is still bloated with the last meal. Depending upon the temperature cycle it is in and the size of the prey item this can take from 6-15 days. If unsure, wait another day or two. It is a practical impossibility to underfeed a normal healthy boa kept in the proper conditions. Many people find it entirely effortless to overfeed theirs! The single most frequently identifiable factor in premature death, poor fertility and other problems with captive boa, especially red-tails, is obesity resulting from over feeding.
Overfeeding, feeding too frequently and feeding prey items too large can often sicken or even kill a red-tail. As will excessively high or low temps during digestion. Apparently a cycle of overfeeding sets up a condition of sensitivity or imbalance in the boa's digestive tract. Contents from the lower digestive tract may also get into the stomach during movement or handling if the meals are too large or too frequent. Regurgitation exacerbates this condition. It has also been suggested that sensitivity to domestic rodent hair sometimes develops in red-tails. The first sign of either of these conditions is usually regurgitation but can also be listlessness, refusal of food, restlessness or any combination of those symptoms. In addition to the risk of sickness or death, overfed, power-fed and overweight adult red-tails have repeatedly shown diminished breeding behavior and fertility. Properly conditioned animals are a must for breeding. I need also say that firm muscular red-tails and other boas demonstrating varied scale sizes, textures and iridescence are objects of splendid beauty far more wonderful than the simple spectacle of a huge fat boa. ~ Gus Rentfro, Rio Bravo Reptiles
I hope this helps the op and anyone else reading this thread to make proper decisions on feeding their boas. This information is never intended to insult - only to inform. :gj:
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Thank you for everyone's help!
@Evenstar - no insult taken, not even remotely close. Thank you for the suggestion on the book, I did go ahead and pick it up, it will be here on Tuesday. For the time being I think I will go with a 10 day schedule with rat pups. Thank you for al your advice, much appreciated.
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I'm glad you got the book! You will really enjoy it - it is very informative on all levels. There's some really nice pictures of the various localities too which is nice. :gj:
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evenstar
I hope this helps the op and anyone else reading this thread to make proper decisions on feeding their boas. This information is never intended to insult - only to inform. :gj:
I don't ever take any info from you as an insult it is always good to learn more I have found in weighing and measuring out the rats by girth and weight that the 10-15% rule for balls transfers by girth only on the smaller ones once you hit medium and up on rats the girth is smaller but the weight is larger because of the length leading to a 20-25% weight ratio. I am working on an average comparison chart for weight to girth since I couldn't find one the task is a bit daunting but in the end hopefully will prove to be more helpful I am going to average out ten litters of rats measuring girth every week and weight to determine category that the girth applies to.
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Re: Boas and hides
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Originally Posted by martin82531
Thank you for everyone's help!
@Evenstar - no insult taken, not even remotely close. Thank you for the suggestion on the book, I did go ahead and pick it up, it will be here on Tuesday. For the time being I think I will go with a 10 day schedule with rat pups. Thank you for al your advice, much appreciated.
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It is a great book it is a long read though I am just getting started on a cover to cover read of it I only got mine in the mail 3 days ago
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Re: Boas and hides
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Lady Kat
I don't ever take any info from you as an insult it is always good to learn more I have found in weighing and measuring out the rats by girth and weight that the 10-15% rule for balls transfers by girth only on the smaller ones once you hit medium and up on rats the girth is smaller but the weight is larger because of the length leading to a 20-25% weight ratio. I am working on an average comparison chart for weight to girth since I couldn't find one the task is a bit daunting but in the end hopefully will prove to be more helpful I am going to average out ten litters of rats measuring girth every week and weight to determine category that the girth applies to.
Sounds good! And you're lucky - you can do this since you breed your own rats. Since I buy mine f/t, I just have to eye-ball them. I could weigh them of course, but when you're feeding 8 boas all banging away at their tubs wanting their rats NOW, well, you get 'em out and get 'em fed. LoL! :D
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