Ambient Air Temperatures....

Assuming all other husbandry is correct,

Ambient air temperatures - how important are they?

Just as important as the rest of the husbandry.

"Too temps can cause brain and neurological damage, spinning, burns, star gazing, seizures,death, etc.

Too low temps can cause respiratory infections, lowered immune system, death,etc."

Assuming all other parts of your car are well functioning, how important are your brakes?

Well whats the best ambient air temperatures? I've heard 77-85, 75-80, or just don't let it drop below 75.

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Originally Posted by futurebpowner

Well whats the best ambient air temperatures? I've heard 77-85, 75-80, or just don't let it drop below 75.

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Great question. I'm going through the same thing right now. :confusd:

I keep my ambient temperature 75-85, if it starts to cool down I turn on my portable heater for 10 minutes and it warms back up.

I've read countless times that people keep proper ambient and/or cold side temps by using only a thermostat regulated UTH on the hot-side. Ha, maybe in Florida or California! :rofl:Here in New Hampshire it's a wee bit trickier, to say the least. My current temps are: Hot-91*, Cool-73*, Humidity-52%. I am hoping to not need heat lamps... :weirdface

As soon as my temps are stabilized, my snake gets to go on a plane ride! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JeRMz

I've read countless times that people keep proper ambient and/or cold side temps by using only a thermostat regulated UTH on the hot-side. Ha, maybe in Florida or California! :rofl:Here in New Hampshire it's a wee bit trickier, to say the least. My current temps are: Hot-91*, Cool-73*, Humidity-52%. I am hoping to not need heat lamps... :weirdface

As soon as my temps are stabilized, my snake gets to go on a plane ride! :D

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UTH's do absolutely nothing for the ambient temperatures.

Here us some info quoted from the care sheet that can be found on this website.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-(Python-regius)-Caresheet

TEMPERATURE
~80F (ambient temps)
~90F (basking temps)
75 or below is unhealthy
Night drops in temps are not necessary or desired

Maintaining proper temperatures is essential to keeping your ball python healthy – failure to do so can lead to a host of issues from poor feeding to potentially lethal respiratory infections. For this reason you want to make sure you are able to measure the temperatures accurately. The sticker-type thermometers used in aquariums, and the little dials usually found in pet stores are routinely inaccurate and do little more than measure the temps of the glass to which they are adhered. Do yourself and your ball python a favor and invest in a digital thermometer. One of the most cost-effective and easily available is the Accu-Rite digital thermometer/hygrometer combo available at large stores such as Wal-Mart. These retail for less than $15 and include a probe making it possible to monitor the warm side and cool side temps as well as the humidity levels all simultaneously.



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Here is another good read I would suggest.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1845904


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Then why is it almost 78* in half my tank, over the Ultratherm? Room temperature is only 68*-70*. I have 1/2" of fir bark in there currently.

A thread I started a while back:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...low-can-you-go

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Originally Posted by MrLang

A thread I started a while back:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...low-can-you-go

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Thank you!! :gj:

I keep my room heated at 80-82 day time and 75-77 night.

My cool side reads 73*, room temp is also 73*. Hot side reads 91*. Humidity is @ 51-52%, large water bowl in center of tank. 20 gal. Long. 3 sides covered in 1/8" black sponge neoprene for insulation. Screen top is covered with 1/8" acrylic sheet, covered and sealed down with reflective HVAC tape. I left approx. a 3" x 9" uncovered portion of the screen top, over the hot-side, for air flow and/or additional heat if necessary. UTH is an 11" x 10.5" Ultratherm and a Hydrofarm t-stat. Will be upgrading t-stat to a VE or comparable stat, later. Acurite in/out therm. w/humidity readout.

My question is, how do I achieve around 75-80* ambient AND surface temp of cool side? I've been reading and reading that some people put an additional uth under cool-side w/additional t-stat set @ 80*. Some like the idea, some don't.
I've also read and read about people who keep a small space heater nearby to keep the area around the enclosure a bit warmer. Again, some like the idea, some don't.
So many opinions vary. My snake is paid for, but his new home is holding up his plane ride.
I should also mention, the 20 Long has 1/2" deep Repti-bark, end-to-end. Thinking about adding a small mixture of Cypress mulch for extra humidity boosting power. And all I have in the enclosure, right now, is the large water bowl and Acurite. Maybe I should add the hides, decor, etc.?
Acrylic top holds the humidity like a champ! The temps, although low, keep constant.
I apologize for the long, hectic post. Been up many hours wracking my brain. Any/all help would be very much appreciated. :confuzd: Am I over thinking some things? Haha, you shoulda seen me when I set up my first soft coral reef tank! :rofl:

To me it sounds like you're very clued up and panicking for little or no reason! Your hot side is perfect - so you are not in danger of it not being warm enough for your bp, you are simply giving him the chance to thermo-regulate. My advice would be:
1. put vents in both ends of your viv to allow for airflow, but get rid of the open bit over the hot side. Then the hot hair will bounce down more towards your cool side, rather than straight out the top.
2. Move the larger hide/ornaments etc to the cool side to allow more heat from the UTH to pass through
3. If that doesn't do it, hook up a very low watt ceramic heat lamp to the centre of the viv. Pictures will help!



________________________________
London, UK
1.0 bumblebee (Hachi-C)
0.1 normal (Kali)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Noz

To me it sounds like you're very clued up and panicking for little or no reason! Your hot side is perfect - so you are not in danger of it not being warm enough for your bp, you are simply giving him the chance to thermo-regulate. My advice would be:
1. put vents in both ends of your viv to allow for airflow, but get rid of the open bit over the hot side. Then the hot hair will bounce down more towards your cool side, rather than straight out the top.
2. Move the larger hide/ornaments etc to the cool side to allow more heat from the UTH to pass through
3. If that doesn't do it, hook up a very low watt ceramic heat lamp to the centre of the viv. Pictures will help!

Thanks for the response, Noz! Yeah, I'm still working on getting Photobucket going. I like your #1 idea. Is this how you have your set-up? Or are you a tub user?

________________________________
London, UK
1.0 bumblebee (Hachi-C)
0.1 normal (Kali)

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To maintain ambient temps I use two infrared heat lamps on rheostats with a thermostat to kick them off it it gets too hot, I've had a rheostat fail and the lamp runs full blast. I've found if I keep the lamps turned down low so where they are constantly on, it doesn't zap humidity. But cranking them up high so the thermostat kicks them on and off dessimates the moisture.

http://db.tt/FXRQ0Rcs

Anybody else want to vote?

I posted this only because there had been a debate between myself and some other folks. I felt ambient air was as important, but they did not. Thanks for all who voted!