Belly Heat

I just read in another thread that belly heat isn't a requirement for ball pythons. I've never heard this before. Can someone please enlighten me? If not belly heat, then what should be used for heat?? Thank you in advance!!

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Originally Posted by April McCrea

I just read in another thread that belly heat isn't a requirement for ball pythons. I've never heard this before. Can someone please enlighten me? If not belly heat, then what should be used for heat?? Thank you in advance!!

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It is a requirement; you should always have belly heat for a ball python, it helps them digest. That's why some breeders heat their entire rooms to 80+ degrees but still have flexwatt throughout their racks for belly heat. If ambient was enough then they'd just heat the room up more.

For additional heat, people with small collections who use tanks might have heat lamps.

Belly heat maybe preferred but its not a requirement. As long as you have a cool side and a warm side of 90 degree this is sufficient.

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Absolutely not needed for digestion or anything else. Correct temps are needed it doesn't matter how you get them. Belly heat is efficient and easy but as far as the snake goes unnecessary.

How very interesting. It definitely gives me something to think about, that's for sure. Especially since my ex-husband is going to be building me a snake rack. If belly heat isn't *needed* then we can totally totally do the set-up the way I was originally thinking.

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Originally Posted by martin82531

Belly heat maybe preferred but its not a requirement. As long as you have a cool side and a warm side of 90 degree this is sufficient.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Absolutely not needed for digestion or anything else. Correct temps are needed it doesn't matter how you get them. Belly heat is efficient and easy but as far as the snake goes unnecessary.

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I always thought it was but apparently not lol.

If a rack is being used, belly heat is typically the most efficient way to achieve proper temps. In display cages and tanks, heat lights or radiant heat panels can be used instead, but the husbandry often needs to be changed somewhat to accommodate the way heat lights can dry out a cage. Heat panels don't dry out cages nearly as much, but they are a somewhat significant step up in price.

-Jen

Back heat can be used in a rack it as stated not as efficient but it still works just fine. In my case with a cool room it simply looses too much heat to be used. Racks generally don't do really well in cool rooms.

So if I do a rack using tubs, I should use heat tape instead of back heat?

When I kept snakes before, I used aquariums for everyone but I was in a much bigger house than I am in now, so a rack is a must in order to keep more than one or two. And I definitely already have more than one or two lol

Hard to say I use flexwatt I believe that is what you mean with heat tape. It can be used with either belly or back heat. Back heat often needs a bit higher temp and longer on times to get the same hot spot. The advantage is the maximum possible temp is lower and perhaps safer. The big issue is if you keep the flexwatt under the max recommended temp of 100ºF will that be able to hold the hot spot or not. Only you can answer this as it is tied to your ambient air temps and rack design.

*nods* Flexwatt is what I mean. I've seen it called flexwatt and heat tape, so I tend to call it heat tape most of the time.

Thank you all for your answers. I'm going to go ahead and set it up using it for belly heat rather than back heat.

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Originally Posted by April McCrea

So if I do a rack using tubs, I should use heat tape instead of back heat?

When I kept snakes before, I used aquariums for everyone but I was in a much bigger house than I am in now, so a rack is a must in order to keep more than one or two. And I definitely already have more than one or two lol

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Hi April, I would definately recommend using belly heat (flex watt heat tape with a herpstat), its the easiest and most efficient way to heat especially in a rack system and your snakes will appreciate it alot as well.

Since were talking about belly heat I figured I'd throw my questions here.

I am looking to get a rack system with belly heat alone. Is that all that is required as a heat source? (I will be having it built by a reputable source)

Also does it run along the whole container meaning there in no cool side? I'm sure I know the answer to this but I would rather know for sure then guess.

Would it be "bad juju" to have a adult rack built and just put the juveniles in the adult tub in their own appropriately sized tub?

Thanks for any info. I'd rather not have to spend the $ if I don't need to as of now getting different sized racks, but if need be I will. I want to have the best information possibly so I won't do anything to harm my babies. Again, thanks in advance.

No typically racks use a secondary heat usually the rooms heat its self. There are not real options for holding ambient air temps with flexwatt racks don't really have any other options. No the flexwatt usually runs across the width often at the back.

I am looking to get a rack system with belly heat alone. Is that all that is required as a heat source? (I will be having it built by a reputable source)
>> Yes, you could do that. I have vision racks at home and we use them at our breeding center with just belly heat, and the snakes are fine. If they are snakes that thrive in tubs, they are snakes that will thrive with just belly heat providing warmth for the warm side.

Also does it run along the whole container meaning there in no cool side? I'm sure I know the answer to this but I would rather know for sure then guess.
>>No, you just put it along one side of the cage. Usually the back so that you can keep water bowls up front where they are easy to access. The snakes will always need a cool side in addition to a warm side.

Would it be "bad juju" to have a adult rack built and just put the juveniles in the adult tub in their own appropriately sized tub?
>>It would be harder to control temps if you have a double tub set up. There's no real reason you couldn't, just with two layers of plastic instead of one, you will likely have a cooler tub that the juvenile is living in.

Thanks for any info. I'd rather not have to spend the $ if I don't need to as of now getting different sized racks, but if need be I will. I want to have the best information possibly so I won't do anything to harm my babies. Again, thanks in advance.
>> In the end, you'll be saving yourself some money, because once you start producing offspring, you'll need those racks anyway. In my experience, it's better to just get the right sized cage the first time than to just try and get by or make something work. The animals do better and care is much easier when you just give them their own appropriate sized enclosure rather than jerry-rigging it. :)

Hope that helps!

-Jen

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Originally Posted by LLLReptile

I am looking to get a rack system with belly heat alone. Is that all that is required as a heat source? (I will be having it built by a reputable source)
>> Yes, you could do that. I have vision racks at home and we use them at our breeding center with just belly heat, and the snakes are fine. If they are snakes that thrive in tubs, they are snakes that will thrive with just belly heat providing warmth for the warm side.

Also does it run along the whole container meaning there in no cool side? I'm sure I know the answer to this but I would rather know for sure then guess.
>>No, you just put it along one side of the cage. Usually the back so that you can keep water bowls up front where they are easy to access. The snakes will always need a cool side in addition to a warm side.

Would it be "bad juju" to have a adult rack built and just put the juveniles in the adult tub in their own appropriately sized tub?
>>It would be harder to control temps if you have a double tub set up. There's no real reason you couldn't, just with two layers of plastic instead of one, you will likely have a cooler tub that the juvenile is living in.

Thanks for any info. I'd rather not have to spend the $ if I don't need to as of now getting different sized racks, but if need be I will. I want to have the best information possibly so I won't do anything to harm my babies. Again, thanks in advance.
>> In the end, you'll be saving yourself some money, because once you start producing offspring, you'll need those racks anyway. In my experience, it's better to just get the right sized cage the first time than to just try and get by or make something work. The animals do better and care is much easier when you just give them their own appropriate sized enclosure rather than jerry-rigging it. :)

Hope that helps!

-Jen

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My app didn't tell me you responded, was fixing to post my question again but figured I'd check. Thanks for answering all my questions.

I thought about it and I think I'm going with what you said and just buy the appropriate sized racks. In the long run it'll be a lot better.

One more question since I will be buying separate racks.

When do you move the snakes to different racks? Like now do you know when to move from a juvenile, to a sub adult, to a adult tub? Just when you see them outgrowing them? Or do you do it by a specific weight/length?

Thanks again Jen! You settled my butterflies from moving to a tank to racks.

No specific time line it is just a size space issue I have seen multiple formulas from snake length = full circumference to snake length = half the circumference and even snake length = the long side. I just use the does the snake seemed cramped or not eye ball rule for when it is time to move. A curious animal of equal size may get moved up faster than a timid one.

When do you move the snakes to different racks? Like now do you know when to move from a juvenile, to a sub adult, to a adult tub? Just when you see them outgrowing them? Or do you do it by a specific weight/length?
>> It really depends on the snakes. I have had big fat babies that hate being moved to a bigger tub, so I keep them in relatively small tubs longer than more active or more robust snakes. I have a mini home-made rack of hatchling tubs that I use for newly hatched babies, once they've fed a couple times I bump them up to the actual baby tubs, which are 12" x 8" x 5.5". They stay in those tubs until they're feeding easily on small rats/almost ready for mediums (usually 6 to 10 months), and then depending on the snake they either get a 32 quart intermediate tub or they go straight into the adult sized CB70 rack. That's my usual pattern, but I also don't have many holdbacks every year (one or two at most), so I have the luxury of tinkering with each snake to make sure it's happy.

Thanks again Jen! You settled my butterflies from moving to a tank to racks.
>> Glad I could help! :)

-Jen

Thanks for all the info. Think ill be going with cserpant racks since their alittle cheaper for now. Thanks again!

I know you are going with racks, just wanted to show you my set up for now. No belly heat.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=189926

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