Ball Python Feeding question.

First of all background. I have not fed this snake in her habitat. She is however 5-6 months old-ish and takes with quick strikes while in a feeding tub every meal. I want to feed her in the habitat, and also do not want her mistaking my hand for food.

1.Do you feed your snakes in their habitat.
2.Is there a certain way to do this, as I don't want my hands mistaken and bit for lowering in mice,etc.

Thanks!!

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Originally Posted by ~Osiris~

First of all background. I have not fed this snake in her habitat. She is however 5-6 months old-ish and takes with quick strikes while in a feeding tub every meal. I want to feed her in the habitat, and also do not want her mistaking my hand for food.

1.Do you feed your snakes in their habitat.
2.Is there a certain way to do this, as I don't want my hands mistaken and bit for lowering in mice,etc.

Thanks!!

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I feed my snakes in their enclosures. I have not been bitten yet.

As long as your hand doesn't smell like a mouse, you should be fine.
Just move slowly without any quick movements. Sometimes quick movements startle snakes to defensive strike.
Also, sometimes feeding responses are strong. So if you're uncomfortable with the snake coming at you, you can use a blunt object such as a paper towel roll or rolled up newspaper to block or redirect their heads.
Some of my aggressive feeders don't realize it's me right away and pose to strike. But once they realize there is no food, they back off.

I did the separate tub thing for my first few feeds with my babies. Eventually I started feeding in the enclosures. I have 2 terrariums with cypress mulch and one tub with paper towels. I haven't had a problem feeding yet. Only once did one of my little girls get a piece of substrate stuck in her mouth. After a half hour or so she either swallowed it or got it out with no after effects. They're still puppy dog tame when I reach in. On feeding day I set my thawed mice on paper towels under the heat lamps on each terrarium to get 'em hungry. Works like a charm. In less than 2 minutes they're out and looking for food. A little zombie dance and it's game over. No mess, no stress.

I feed all my snakes in their enclosures. Never been bit from a feeding response. Sometimes they will shoot out of their tubs, trying to strike the rat before it even gets in. I dont do anything special, open tub, drop in food, close tub and move to the next. Usually hear the thud from the strike, if not I give them some time, and remove the food.

I feed all mine in their cage.

I heat my feeders in hot water and use tongs to place the feeders in the cage. I dangle the feeder by the tail until I get a strike and sometimes give it some tugs and wiggles to make them think they have a live one to get a stronger response.

I have never been struck during feeding but the tongs make sure that I won't. I also believe is presents the feeders in a better way by leaving the big human arm out of the cages.

I have a ball and a carpet they both get fed in their cage. As of right now they are both on live, carpet didn't want anything dead and the ball doesn't like dead rats either only live. I haven't had any problems feeding in their cages my ball is on the reptile dirt stuff cuz he's just gonna be the living room snake since normal males aren't much for breeding so he'll live his life in a fancy tank haha and the carpet has some rat bedding in there on top of newspaper (not greatest substrate but I ran outta paper :( ha). But I agree with what was said about tongs with f/t I like tongs keeps the hand safe enough away no mistake arise. Good luck :)

Yes, mine all eat in their tubs. Nobody thinks I'm food. I feed mostly live, so I open tub, put rat in, close tub.

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You'll be fine feeding in the cage. The only precaution I take is making sure the prey item is warmer than my hand. They identify by smell but target by the heat signature. Once their feeding response is activated, they'll strike at whatever is the hottest. Sometimes I actually have to poke them in the face with the rat in order to stop them from going for my hand.

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Originally Posted by cmack91

You'll be fine feeding in the cage. The only precaution I take is making sure the prey item is warmer than my hand. They identify by smell but target by the heat signature. Once their feeding response is activated, they'll strike at whatever is the hottest. Sometimes I actually have to poke them in the face with the rat in order to stop them from going for my hand.

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Thank you all for your help!!

I am definitely switching to cage feeding, and going to try live prey. She is about 150 grams and I think if I de-fang the small rodent I should have a happy lil' active and plump breeder ufo python!! :dance:

Thanks in advance for all of the friendly forum answers in advance too my next question.


Do any of you have advice on when to know when not to handle the snake? :confusd::hug: I dont want to stress her and I out while we bond, but need to know signs of aggressive behavior. Defensive behaviors, etc.

Defang the rodent?

You can't defang the rodent. Well you could, but that is so so so cruel to the rodent.

How do you intend to defang a rodent? Also, while you may enjoy your snake there won't be any bonding that the snake will do with you. They will learn to trust you and know that you bring them food but that is about as far as it goes.

I feed live, in the enclosure, and I have had a snake receive a bit more than once, but the bites have always heals up without issue and after a couple of sheds will be hardly noticeable. I still stand by and watch to ensure that it isn't the head being bitten or something that would do some serious damage (tail on a male, for instance, could potentially damage a hemipene).

You say your going to try live? Does that mean she's on f/t? If so, that's a good thing. They're just as nutritious in reality, and you dont have to put the rat through excruciating pain. The poor thing is already going to be squeezed to death then eaten. "De-fanging" is just cruel and what I consider to be animal abuse.

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Originally Posted by ~Osiris~

Thank you all for your help!!

I am definitely switching to cage feeding, and going to try live prey. She is about 150 grams and I think if I de-fang the small rodent I should have a happy lil' active and plump breeder ufo python!! :dance:

Thanks in advance for all of the friendly forum answers in advance too my next question.


Do any of you have advice on when to know when not to handle the snake? :confusd::hug: I dont want to stress her and I out while we bond, but need to know signs of aggressive behavior. Defensive behaviors, etc.

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You can handle the snake 24-48 hours after they have eaten. Aggressive strike is striking in and out of the enclosure. They are literally attacking you. Defensive strike is striking when you come too close and they don't want to be bothered and will shy away. But most balls won't do this. They would rather ball up than fight. (Hence the name ball python)

Either way, getting bitten is no big deal. A paper cut hurts more.

Do not defang the feeder. Instead, be proactive about being responsible about feeding live.


Some responsible live feeding tips:

1) Feed the appropriate size food. I like smaller and more frequent meals than larger and less often. Weanlings and small rats are safe and harmless(to some extent). They're also not as conscious to danger as an adult would be. Adult rats can pack a nasty bite and are much stronger at fighting back, which is why "smaller and more frequent" is the way to go. I feed all of my adults weaned/small rats once a week. And multiple smalls for the big girls. A medium size would be the max appropriate size for a ball python.

2) Keep the feeder well fed and hydrated. They're less likely to see your snake as food. Hungry rats are dangerous rats. They will eat your snake if left unattended for extended periods of time. This is the reason for most snake killing incidences.

3) Don't dangle the live feeder. This puts them in panic mode. A freaked out feeder is a dangerous feeder. Gently place the feeder into your enclosure. Calm feeders are good.

4) Monitor your feedings and keep a tool, such as tongs, on hand to assist your snake in case the feeder tries to bite down. I use a chop stick to stick in the feeder's mouth if its in a bad position.

5) Don't keep the feeder in with your snake longer than 30 mins max or so. Some people have a shorter time frame. If he doesn't eat within that time frame, take out the feeder and save it for next week.

If your snake is only 150 grams, rat pups are harmless. Think toddler age. Mice of the equivalent size may pack more of a punch since they are older in age. Just be aware and vigilant.


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Originally Posted by barbie.dragon

Defang the rodent?

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Was a joke, I feed frozen/thaw :taz: lol

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Originally Posted by satomi325

You can handle the snake 24-48 hours after they have eaten. Aggressive strike is striking in and out of the enclosure. They are literally attacking you. Defensive strike is striking when you come too close and they don't want to be bothered and will shy away. But most balls won't do this. They would rather ball up than fight. (Hence the name ball python)

Either way, getting bitten is no big deal. A paper cut hurts more.

Do not defang the feeder. Instead, be proactive about being responsible about feeding live.


Some responsible live feeding tips:

1) Feed the appropriate size food. I like smaller and more frequent meals than larger and less often. Weanlings and small rats are safe and harmless(to some extent). They're also not as conscious to danger as an adult would be. Adult rats can pack a nasty bite and are much stronger at fighting back, which is why "smaller and more frequent" is the way to go. I feed all of my adults weaned/small rats once a week. And multiple smalls for the big girls. A medium size would be the max appropriate size for a ball python.

2) Keep the feeder well fed and hydrated. They're less likely to see your snake as food. Hungry rats are dangerous rats. They will eat your snake if left unattended for extended periods of time. This is the reason for most snake killing incidences.

3) Don't dangle the live feeder. This puts them in panic mode. A freaked out feeder is a dangerous feeder. Gently place the feeder into your enclosure. Calm feeders are good.

4) Monitor your feedings and keep a tool, such as tongs, on hand to assist your snake in case the feeder tries to bite down. I use a chop stick to stick in the feeder's mouth if its in a bad position.

5) Don't keep the feeder in with your snake longer than 30 mins max or so. Some people have a shorter time frame. If he doesn't eat within that time frame, take out the feeder and save it for next week.

If your snake is only 150 grams, rat pups are harmless. Think toddler age. Mice of the equivalent size may pack more of a punch since they are older in age. Just be aware and vigilant.


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This as well as all your responses were good.
I am eventually maybe going to go to live as this is a normal ball and I don't even know if she really is female. The person I got her from didn't take care of her, why not have bad info too right?
Thanks for your responses, and patience to my erratic posts at times, I get side tracked easily. ;)

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Originally Posted by ~Osiris~

This as well as all your responses were good.
I am eventually maybe going to go to live as this is a normal ball and I don't even know if she really is female. The person I got her from didn't take care of her, why not have bad info too right?
Thanks for your responses, and patience to my erratic posts at times, I get side tracked easily. ;)

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What does the pythons genetics or sex have to do with feeding live vs. F/T?

I currently have one ball python that I'm feeding live, but I will be making the switch to F/T soon. It's easier to buy frozen feeders in bulk and keep them than it is to set up a separate cage for live feeders. One time he refused a meal and we had to take the mouse back to the pet store because we didn't have any food for the poor (or lucky, I guess) little mouse. While it was a learning experience, it was also an inconvenience. We have to make weekly runs for live feeders as is.

That said, if you plan on breeding feeders and are squeamish about killing them yourself, live might be the better option for you. Just be vigilant when the feeder is in with your snake and you'll be fine. :)

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Originally Posted by Chkadii

What does the pythons genetics or sex have to do with feeding live vs. F/T?

I currently have one ball python that I'm feeding live, but I will be making the switch to F/T soon. It's easier to buy frozen feeders in bulk and keep them than it is to set up a separate cage for live feeders. One time he refused a meal and we had to take the mouse back to the pet store because we didn't have any food for the poor (or lucky, I guess) little mouse. While it was a learning experience, it was also an inconvenience. We have to make weekly runs for live feeders as is.

That said, if you plan on breeding feeders and are squeamish about killing them yourself, live might be the better option for you. Just be vigilant when the feeder is in with your snake and you'll be fine. :)

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F/T seems most effecient. Ty:cool:

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Originally Posted by ~Osiris~

F/T seems most effecient. Ty:cool:

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It really depends on the person. What may be efficient for one person, may not be efficient for another. For example, someone with over a dozen snakes might not find thawing out a handful of rats or standing over 20+ tubs doing the rat zombie dance efficient. Someone who breeds their own feeders just has to drop their live into a tub and move onto the next one, then check up on the ones you hear a constriction from. All they have to do is toss an uneaten feeder back into their enclosure to save for next time. People who don't breed but pick up lives in bulk do the same.
Personally, I find f/t to be efficient for people who only have a few snakes or less.

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As I am going to eventually breed, I want this snake (which is a top grade snake, it is juvenile and hits mark everytime and grows well.) to stay on it's course with the frozen. I am going to move to rats soon as it is down to 3 large mice F/T.

By september I want to get 2 more normal females, and a co-dominant female, and a quad dominant male to breed.

Thoughts????